So Im getting a display malfunction error with two different pictures:

The car doesnt realize the key for keyless go...I go to put the key in and the car will turn on, shake and turn off...display malfunction visit workshop light comes on

Headlights work, no interior lights work but the radio turns on...

plugged in OBD2 and I get p0600 and p0720

10 minutes later all my interior lights come on out of nowhere and car starts right up...

I looked up codes on google and get anything from a conductor plate to a failing SAM unit to some O-ring by the coolant tank???

the display workshop has come on twice in the last three weeks or so
any insight would be MUCH appreciated

thank you all for your time

Check for voltage issues - you should have 12.6v at rest, no less than 11v during cranking, and 14v at idle.

This /\. I had these codes and was feeling lazy. took the car to an indy who charge 1100 to swap the conductor plate and the car would still go into limp. Changed the battery and every thing has been fine for months.

thank you for the reply, it was about time i ordered a multi meter anyway...im assuming batter and voltage regulator should be the two things to look into then?

checked with multimeter:

12.6 with car off
10-11 while cranking (friend said it was moving too fast for him to see)
14.4 at idle

I am assuming that takes out the battery?

What is left to check in your opinions?

thank you for the help~!

Below 11v during starting is a bit low and could be causing faults in the SAM. At this point, I think you're going to need to get it hooked up to SDS and have a full diagnostic scan done on all components.

Dropped off car at dealer yesterday, called today saying they think it's a bad fuel pump but they are going to do more "tests". I don't see how a bad fuel pump can cause electrical issues like the interior lights not working but everything else working

Just got a call saying it is the EIS electronic ignition switch. 1430 parts and labor and diagnostic...

if the battery is old I would just change it. My battery tested fine but was the problem for sure.

battery is about 3 years old...I might wait a few months through the winter to change it. I really dont feel like my symptoms are from an EIS though...dont want to pay 1400+$ and still have issues

The EIS is the bridge between the two CAN buses in the car, so it could cause these problems. There seems to be a lot of reports of bad EIS modules on the R230 forum, too. I just don't understand why these "go bad". Maybe the supplier gave them a bad batch or something. $1400 is highway robbery - the part itself is about $500 retail and it's a couple hours of labor. I think most shops charge around $800 for the job total.

Im going to try and get them to lower the price (goodluck right) if not going to call MBUSA. Any suggestions at all? Does the EIS need to be coded by the dealer at all or can I buy and install on my own?
Only issue I have is if it doesnt fix the issue I wont have anything to go against the dealer if I need to take it in again.

thanks for your input!

service rep stated it is 562$ in parts and 5.2 hours of labor for "diagnosing, doing the swap, and coding the EIS"

So if we are going to throw parts at this thing why not start with the cheep one. Battery? Its not like it is going to hurt anything.

I would really consider taking it to the dealer throwing parts at it? especially with their "professional diagnosis" lol...I really hate the dealer, but when it comes to electrical issues I would hope the battery causing the fault would be considered on their end

There is no way this takes 5 hours. I looked at ASRA (the "book rates" guide section of WIS) and it's 1.7 hours to remove the lower panel that the EIS is attached to. There is coding involved, but it's not SCN, so anyone with SDS can do this - it does not require a dealer's live version of SDS. Coding might take an hour.

thank you for the information. Just so I I have some more ammo when I talk to the dealer what does SCN, and ASRA stand for? Thank you

Just FYI the dealer said I need a new abs unit when i needed a new battery. That was after I spent 1100, at an indy, on a new conductor plate as well.

SCN = Software Calibration Number. SCN coding refers to downloading firmware code to a computerized control unit that is specific to the car's VIN. This firmware has to be obtained from MBZ corporate via a licensed copy of SDS (Star Diagnosis System). It is generally for parts that are involved in the secure functions of the Drive Authorization System.

ASRA = Arbeitstexte, Standardtexte, Richtzeiten and Arbeitswerte, which is German for "operation texts, standard texts, flat rates and work units". It's the "book rate" calculator for work defined by WIS.

WIS = Workstation Information System, which is the electronic shop manuals used by dealers.

thank you for the information. The part is back ordered until Wednesday, I did get a 2016 GLE as a free loaner in the meantime and "150 dollars off"

update***

Car has still not been fixed two weeks later. Part was back ordered. Now they are having issues transferring everything to a "green key" I have no idea what that is. They said they are having issues downloading the information onto the key...anyone have any experience with this? I have been without my car for 2 weeks now

When the car is built, MBZ assigns 24 key codes to the car that are downloaded to the EIS. This is done via a special Green key (literally, a SmartKey that is green) that comes from corporate with the codes for that VIN. When replacing the EIS, these codes need to be transferred, and that can be done n one of two ways. The easiest is by using SDS to read and temporarily hold the codes from the existing EIS, then transfer them into the new one via SDS. However, if the EIS is suspected as being defective, they worry that the coding may be corrupt so they do it the second way, which is to get a new Green Key from corporate (based on the VIN) that will download the original key codes to the new EIS.

got it, now does an ECU tune (that I have) cause any issues with this? are they transferring anything from the ECU at all?

thank you very much

got a call saying the car is ready and good to go...supposedly there was some wiring issue in the rear sam that was causing the coding not to go through...Now im thinking it was a rear sam issue all along - _ - had a loaner for almost 2 weeks for free but still charging me 1300$ for the repair. They waived the few hours of labor to fix the rear sam issue