mbenzman

Well, it wasn't the cheapest thing I wished for, but it'll do and keep me entertained longer than even the latest dvd's lasted!!!
I got a high restriction/ high backpressure muffler, and new style hot air intake from Santa. Now what to do with them, Hmmmmm, should I install it on the CLK55, ML55 or 500E?
Will 30 psi backpressure be good for performance? We will find out.
Rich

Jaki

I'm trying to solve the riddle, but having a little too much difficulty in doing so... unless... you just bought (or created) a sweet new freeflowing exhaust?

mbenzman

Jaki

Ahhh, duh!!

I actually thought about this a few times today, and still never thought of a turbo!!! Stick it in the CLK55! These cars should've come with something more in the engine... a turbo will do that trick just fine!

BenzoBoi

That + CLK=Sleeper!!!

mbenzman

If this one works out, the ML55 will get one too! That will be a better sleeper than the CLK.
Rich

NitrogenBalance

Is this a benz turbo from an F/I model??

Man, I live too far from any of you guys doing this stuff. Heads, ported intakes, turbos, LSD's. I so very much need a good benz tech that can think outside the OEM box.

mbenzman

It's not a factory installed on anything I know of turbo. It's a gt45 rated at 700 - 1100 h.p.!! You can use it on anything you want from 2.0 - 7.0 liters although it may not be optimum. The 5.5 should be responsive with it, a 2.0 would suffer major lag. However this will be very interesting.
Has anyone blown up a 5.5 yet?
Here's a picture for size reference laying over a om617.952 diesel factory turbo.
Rich
Did I wake up all the CLK guys yet, These forums seem to be dead since X-mas???

Jaki

Keep us updated on the progress. I'm very interested how this turns out.

Regarding blown 5.5's, I've heard of one, but that was second hand or third hand info. I was told by someone that they heard about a kid blowing up the 5.5k in an E55, because he was running a homemade nitrous setup.

ROCKETW19

post this up in E55 section you will get tons of more info

mbenzman

Why???? This turbo is not going on a w210 or w211 E55. I would be asked to repost in the proper forum! This is being installed on the w208 CLK55, therefore placed in the proper forum.
I also don't hang out at the E55 forum, I posted there maybe once when I found the wrecked beast video.
I appreciate you concerns though.
Rich

mbenzman

I'd like to see the wasted pistons from that! Have a link?
I'm obviously not wanting to blow up my 55 . it was just a joke. I do have some more issues to think about. I am leaning toward a liquid/air i/c and decideding whether to blow through the mass air meter or move it again to relocate it ahead of the turbo.
I have been planning to do this on the ML55 for a while, but with another child on the way the ML is probably best not messed with for another year and a half. Or maybe I will Kleemanize it, since that is a drop in solution.
Rich

NitrogenBalance

Well, for what it's worth, my mass air sensor is located pre blower on my setup. I'm really glad your doing this, I'm sure I can learn a thing or too.

.....and just to beat a dead horse from your last topic. What are you going to do with the crankcase in terms of ventilation?? I was going to retain the PCV system and install check valves as you mentioned on mine. This would certainly fix the issue with CC gases and oil life. However, upon further thought and fooling around I'm at the conclusion that my setup creates a good amount of CC pressure. Enough to blow the dipstick out once during a dyno pull. Being that it's a similar M113 you may run into the same issue. Reading up on CC pressure I understand it's roll in creating leaks and robbing power with piston downstroke.

I've been throwing ideas back and forth and I think I've decided on sealing up the CC and applying 5-12in of vacuum through a self lubrication GZ belt driven pump into a catch can filtered to atmosphere. It is going to pull from the 1/2in fitting on the D. side valve cover. The P. side valve cover is going to have a vacuum relief installed to make sure it doesn't see over 12in and pull oil from where it needs to be within the CC. During use the vacuum should build in relation to RPM/Boost as it's belt driven. My hopes are to eliminate as much CC pressure as possible.

Anything stupid I'm missing?? I'm posting this because I trust your opinion but more importantly it may be of value with your current prodject to stay on topic.

mbenzman

I have been leaning towards a pump type setup. I did play with the 500E's pcv since and installed a check valve on the one side to release pressure, and ran full intake vacuum on the other two valve cover ports.
Here's what I noted, idle seemed to smothen, exhaust sound softened a bunch at idle, I believe due the engine not laboring as much. Throttle extremely responsive, and may have made more power. I say this because i drove it down the driveway with a full throttle shot down the road and blew oil everywhere from the dipstick tube after it pushed the dipstick up. I immediately put it back to stock, for now.
I had used a brake booster check valve to handle releasing any crankcase pressure, but obviously it couldn't handle enough flow to prevent crankcase pressurization. I need to find a larger check valve.
So back to the drawing board. I do feel there was some power there to be had as well, so how about trying to come up with a electric pump that will switch on when crankase vac falls below a set figure? I don't know about the longivity of a belt driven pump.
The simple thing to do is exactly what you are saying with the belt driven pump and oil seperator or even venting it externally. I may do this in the end, to prevent detonation as my goal will be 700 crank h.p. Oil ingestion is a bad thing when octane needs are increased as oil will burn but has a very low natural octane number.
I guess what I would like to do with the mass meter is to add a seperate iat sensor and disable the one in the meter so the ecu can see the air charge temperature after the turbo heats it instead of before, as that should help with detonation issues. But I don't believe I can get away with this trick, that's why I have thought about putting it behind the turbo.
A little more homework to do yet anyway.
Rich

NitrogenBalance

That's awesome, your results with the E sound promising. I've read alot about CC evacuation/vacuum lately and I'm surprised that so few address this issue with F/I motors here. It seems to be a common issue with F/I domestics likes vettes and cobras. Almost all the examples I found either fixed a persons leak problem and or increased a few HP's. For your current goal I would think this is going to be very important to hit that #.


The electric pump thing I thought about and found a really nice config made for an LS1 turbo. The system used a bosche smog pump reversed to pull 5in of vacuum. The system used manifold vacuum during idle/crusing with a check valve to hault boost. A boost activated switch then triggered the bosche pump once manifold pressure became +. I've also thought about setting up two similar smog pumps one for each cyl. bank, and wire them to ign power to run all the time. The issue with these ideas I've found is that you would have to run the lines through a catch can and smaller oil/air type seperator you see in airtool compressor systems. I found that the electric pumps need to see very little to no oil mist or else they will burn out. I could see this becoming an issue, especially if one doesn't clean the filters well. Also, the onset of vacuum wouldn't be linear with boost/RPM/CCpressure. It would just hit at 5in and stay there either at idle or WOT. Also, I've heard that when they go, they just go. The mechanical vacuum pumps I've heard just start to lose vacuum, so you get an idea when the pump is starting to fail.

The racing type vacuum pumps I've found to be expensive and require rebuilds. I found a model from GZ motorsports that addressed this issue. It is racing type pump that is modified internally for prolonged use on the street. It has a tiny oil feed line that connects to the bottom of the catch can to always circulate oil within to extend it's life. They make up to 20in so I would have it underdriven to make 10-12in which should also add to it's lifespan given it's being run at 50%. Belt driven would also address the issue of building vacuum in relation to increased boost/RPM. A vacuum gauge mounted off of the vacuum relief valve would indicate total in. and when the pump is in need of rebuild it would show a loss in vacuum. So far this seems to be the most effective and simple idea I could muster up. Finding the space for it and fabbing a bracket would be the biggest challange.

That car is gonna be a beast.

mbenzman

700 h.p. should be easy as they you can get 600 with the Kleemann s/c. The turbo should have a broader power band and be just wicked when on boost.
The bosch pump we use on M.B.'s and BMW's suck (in a bad way). and they only run a couple minutes or less when the cars are started with a cold engine. Plus they're expensive too.
I wonder if we could use a belt driven pump and a bmw bmw crankcase pressure regulator in front of it which would use intake vacuum to take some strain off the pump and possible make it reliable. Put the seperator between the pump and the engine. Or m50/52 BMW's use a seperator in the regulator, could save space with that one.

Jaki

Do you think the engine can take 700hp though? Nobody has taken it that far that I know of. I know of a few E55k's that have taken it to high 500rwhp/low 600rwhp which is right around 700 crank hp. However, their internals are a bit different than ours. I agree that reaching 700hp should be easy with a turbo. 5.5L V8 and Turbos =

Chappy

Rich, you are a maniac!

mbenzman

I've been called worse!! Think I might have a chance now.
Rich

mbenzman

If bolting on a Kleemann S/C can buy you over 600 h.p., then 700 without a belt driven s/c should be just as easy and no more taxing to the fuel system. You also don't need the headers if you do a turbo as exhaust scaveging won't play into it. The intake mods I have done already will help, and then I will come with up with a crankcase scavenging system somehow, which will be a further free plus without robbing more h.p. from the crank and demanding more fuel. Should be a real efficent setup with less parasitic losses and more available crankshaft h.p..
Anyone blown up a N/A 55 with the Kleemann S/C at 600 h.p. yet? This should have about the same strain as that setup, but the horses will be available to the wheels instead of running the s/c. Everything should be just fine then. But you never know til you try!
Rich
!

ProjectC55

If you can make the manifld and piping,accomplish the ECU tuning,then you'll have a worthy project because God knows we need a project AMG55 Turbo like the BMW guys have. HPF finally came out with a turbo kit for the E46 M3(11.5:1 CP). READ:

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=411259


There issue was sorting out the electronis which hopefully would not be to difficult on the MB. It's a good look Rich but I think I'd do a TT setup. Piping will be easier IMOP. NO?

AMGEEZY

Any updates on this project????

mbenzman

Only so much time in a day. I have a few other things going on, hobbies, helping others, buisness, maintenance of my vehicles, pregnant wife, etc, and just a few more.
I need to solve a few issues before continuing, plus need some more equipment for the shop. I'm playing with the pcv system right now. Last week was Kubota tractor maintenance and repairs. The week before trailer brake controller installation on ML55. Today or tomorrow, brakes job on ML55 and installing the full size spare on rear before family weekend roadtrip.
It'll be a while before the CLK55 gets turboed, The room for the turbo is a concern, plasma cutter may see some action. lol
Rich

ItalianStallion

Can't wait to see the results. I've been very interested on slapping a turbo (or 2 turbos) onto my car, but everywhere I go I get a quote of at least $15-20k installed and they're still not sure if they can do it or if it will run right. If you can get this to work and you get real gains for a good price (compared to the big tuners with their s/c), then I'll probably go for it too. Good luck with everything and keep us updated.

PTE

mbenzman: I've been watching your post with great interest . It seems like Crankcase pressure could be a issue. But everytime I've remove my intake manifold , it has some oil laying in the lower plenum. I've looked into why it gets there. There is a ton of oil laying in cylinder head bolt pockets and in valleys , that do not drain well. Clearance for the Cam Lobes. The cylinder head drain back passages to the Crankcase , don't seem to allow all the oil to return. It appears the vents are much larger. AE: Timing chain passages. I was removing the heads . but used a Vet hypo seringe , to suck the oil out of the low lieing areas. To my supprise after I removed the heads , set them upright , MORE OIL FLOWED OUT With all this oil under the valve covers , My Guess is that when we Chop the throttle shut after a hi rpm run, There is a LOT of vaccum pulled on the hose just after the throttle Plate. May we can find a check valve that closes at Vaccum . then sends that cçase pressure to the exhaust system ?? Lets keep look for Ideas Take care ___PTE___