Temperatures are down and snow could be coming any time. I have planned only a few countermeasures for winter storage:

Wash/wax vac
Oil Change
Add fuel stabilizer
Tire Pressure increase
Removal of trunk liner

Do any other members have experience / suggestions about the do's and don'ts of winter storage? Opinions appreciated

I can't see swapping 9 quarts of synthetic just to put it up for a few months

In 30 years of driving all I ever did to winter a vehicle was to run it almost out of gas so I could fill it first thing w/ a full tank of premium. Your coolant should already be less than 2 years old or else you're already risking your head gaskets and block.

I will be garaging it with the top up as I think it does a better job of keeping the fabric in the right shape.

Everything else basically takes care of itself.

I used to use stabil but really unless you're parking it for more than 6 months I don't think it's necessary.

And with the clk63, I intend to drive it all winter any time the roads are dry. It'll probably only sit for a month at the longest.

Although it's a special car, it's not a museum piece. I bought it to drive it.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I too bought the car to drive but the ritual of maintenance and cleaning is part of the owner experience. I really don't mind that commitment, I just want to get it right the first time. Since I did not put the coolant in myself, I'll flush that system too.

Battery Maintainer for sure, I also did oil change on both cars as done every year around this cold time. No stabilizer as should be back on the road as soon as the road salt is washed away in the spring. Just wondering why remove the trunk liner?

My garage is not climate controlled. I have read about the practice of trunk liner removal as a countermeasure to limit the effects of moisture. Perhaps its overkill on my part. I'm just trying to be thorough.

I appreciate the insights. My intent behind leaving the car with a full tank is that with less surface area exposed inside the gas tank there would be less oxidation of the metal leading to deposits when I fill up in a few months.

Just gonna jump in and bring this back up


Battery tender
full tank+ stabilizer


Do you guys jack it up and leave your car on blocks or not? I hear stories about the suspension sagging or tires getting bald spots.

Not sure if the fuel stabil is necessary for a few months....couldn't hurt tho.

Flat spots will go away with driving usually. I don't think it is good to have the car on blocks or a 2 post lift where the suspension is just hanging under its own weight.

How long you putting the car away for the winter?

I def agree with a battery tender...I only put my CLK away for 3-4 months and if no tender then the battery definitely gets killed.

Just me 2 cents...

Yeah the stabilizer doesn`t cost much so I rather be safe. Up here it gets cold and snowy a lot so I think I`ll store it in the next couple of weeks till around march (as of March 15 we are allowed to put away winter tires so I can legally drive as of march on all season/summers)


I`m reading and most people seem to just inflate their tires to the max psi and leave it... I think I`m gonna do that.

Nice to see that some take care of the car when the salt and snow comes.

I have purchased some parts from the north that had some salt corrosion.

Lets Benz be happy

Here in the Qc/Montreal region it's rare to see nice cars in the winter. The snow+salt just eats through steal (as well as giant potholes the size of craters). You really have to not give a damn about your car or be crazy to drive a nice car in the winter.


Naturally come November, everybody is looking for a beater for the winter and then we all sell it in the spring

I store my CL for winter and I give it a wash/wax and vacume fuel stabilizer, tire pressure check and start it once a month. No reason at all to do a oil change if the car is not being used.

The only issue would be the oil. Hmmm

In a garage the ambient temperatures might swing quite a bit as temperatures change.
A quick start is not always a good idea either.

When temperature changes drastically condensate (moisture) accumulates. Moisture in the oil eats away at bearing babbit and unprotected aluminum. This applies to dino oil. I have never studied the synthetic oil that we use.

A quick start is worse than short trip driving. The CO is so high when the engine is cool that another type of acid is formed which normally takes a hard drive to burn off.

The best storage technique I can think of to keep the engine happy in the winter without starting, would be the addition of a block heater. wow what a run on.

A block heater would keep ambient temps from interfering with the acid building process.

my 2 cents

Be aware....many states now use liquid calcium chloride (also a 'salt')...which is even worse for metal components, especially aluminum.

Well that's a bust for me.
Had my battery tender jr. hooked up since my last post... went away and sometime in December I disconnected it to start and move it, no problem here.


Today I went to do the same and the battery was dead as a fish and I know I saw the light green a couple of days ago. I had to boost it to get it running.


Did this happen to anybody else?

Sounds like your battery needs replacing....the battery tender won't 'charge' it up if it gets low, it only maintains it.

^oh I see. I read the batter tender manual and was under the impression it would charge and then keep it maintained.