CLK55 AMG, CLK63 AMG (W208, W209) 2000 - 2010 (Two Generations)

Power seat won't move. Motor & switch okay W208

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Old Aug 29, 2016 | 09:25 PM
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2002 CLK55 AMG
Power seat won't move. Motor & switch okay W208

I have a 2002 CLK55 AMG. Passenger seat will not move fore/aft. I can hear a barely audible "clicking" noise under the middle of the seat bottom. Said noise is NOT coming from the motor.

I lifted the seat and pulled the center motor out, had my guy test it and open it up to clean. It works fine, but not when plugged into it's respective plug. Only the tiny clicking sound happens but no action from the motor.

If I take one of the other motor leads and plug it in, the motor spins. Therefore it's not the motor itself. The switch on the door must be okay as I can hear the faint clicking sound. Could this be a relay?

I assume it's the same power seat motor for all 2002 era MB's.

Quick reply appreciated as I am driving around with the passenger seat loose...
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 08:17 PM
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I'm not strong at electrical but can find burnt and chaffed wires. I'll ask my technical employee to measure voltage. In talking to him he wonders if it's a bad relay or bad limit switch. Seems like most of the older MB's have power seat issues. I totally removed the seat for a better look. Maybe replace the power seat module under the seat???
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 10:36 PM
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Mi

The motor is part number 2088200842 and it's the same for both the driver and passenger sides. Just swap motors. If that's it, they're between $150 and $170 for a factory part.

Last edited by MarcusF; Aug 30, 2016 at 10:39 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2016 | 08:54 PM
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Seat motor is OK maybe it's the SCM

I know the motor is okay, we pulled it and opened it up and cleaned it. I was able to plug it into one of the other sockets for the other seat motors, possibly the recliner, and the motor spins. I'm thinking maybe the seat control module is pooched but am unsure how to test. Anyone?

Note there are 3 motors under the seat and 5 leads and they are not all switchable due to different plug ends, possibly due to differing power requirements, or so that they do not get mixed up during installation. I took the whole seat out and would like to remove the leather seat bottom so I can easily test from above with the seat reinstalled. The front 2 torx screws for the seat bottom were easy to remove, but I cannot even see the rear screws as the back is buried where the seatback and seatbase are hinged together. I do not want to separate the back from the base. Anyone know how to get the seat bottom off the rails? Anyone?
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Old Sep 1, 2016 | 09:50 PM
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I must be the only guy with a stuck power seat. Anyway I read at Benzworld you have to advance the seat up the track until you see the rear cushion bolts through a hole in the rail assembly si I thought I would share this. Gonna try it tomorrow.
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 07:22 AM
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Did you check fuses (#6) & (#7) or (25) amps, one of them may went bad..?,,

also, try to check control module under the seat, it may not working..?!?!

,,ZAYED,,
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 11:06 AM
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Personally, I’d check for power at the motor. If the OP has done that, he hasn’t mentioned it. He just mentioned a clicking noise. If the motor sees power when it’s supposed to, but the seat doesn’t move, it’s usually the motor, although it could be the tracks. A gazillion years ago when my car was under factory warranty, my dealer replaced the motor and tracks as an assembly.

The OP is convinced the motor isn’t the problem. He feels the motor spins when it’s not under a load, so it must work when it’s under a load. Knowing that’s not true, I recommended swapping it with the driver’s side motor, but he’s staunch in his commitment that it’s not the motor. It will be interesting to see where this leads.
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Old Sep 4, 2016 | 05:33 PM
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I bet there is a penny stuck in the track.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 10:09 PM
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The clicking I hear is from the Seat Control module. I managed to swap leads on 2 of the motors and the fore/aft motor spins. Also got the seat to move with the motor removed by sticking a Robertson screw (point first) into a cordless drill and pressing the square Robertson hole onto the square end of the gear shaft and using the drill like a motor. It moved the seat easily so I think the motor is good. Nothing stuck in the track.

Got a handful of power seat motors and both L&R seat control modules from a wreck. Will test all this stuff later this week and what gets the seat moving. And oh yes, I guess I better check all those fuses lol! I didn't check said fuses because I could hear clicking at the SCM so it must be getting juice.
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 09:25 PM
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well whaddaya know...!

um, I checked all the fuses under the engine and in the trunk... turns out it was a fuse ,

Changed said fuse at the seat moves fine, so now I have some seat motors and SCM's for sale.

I request to be taken out back and slapped.
Attached Files
File Type: wmv
slap.wmv (1.69 MB, 149 views)

Last edited by PKSlice; Sep 6, 2016 at 10:04 PM. Reason: upload url
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 10:19 PM
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Glad you catch it.., which fuse was that..??

,,ZAYED,,
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 11:04 PM
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25 amp fuse in the trunk. Number eight I think...
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 11:59 PM
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You may want to hang on to one of those spare motors. It's common for "soon to be dead" motors to repeatedly trip the fuse.
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Old Sep 7, 2016 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by MarcusF
You may want to hang on to one of those spare motors. It's common for "soon to be dead" motors to repeatedly trip the fuse.

Totally agree Marcus...If OP reads through seat motor posts, almost every person who started blowing fuses ended up changing the motor.
I have posted this before...change the motor before it fails or else you will have seat stuck in a position that makes it impossible to get to the rails nor the motor w/o being a contortionist!...Change the middle motor now!!
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Old Sep 7, 2016 | 07:34 PM
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Got enuf parts to open my own store now. I wanted to imbed a video of a *****slap into my message but cannot figure out how to do it...

Attaching the file just doesn't have the same impact...
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Old Sep 8, 2016 | 09:01 PM
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Agreed about changing the motor if fuse blows, EXCEPT my electronics guy opened the motor and cleaned it up so it's better than a used one that has not been inspected.

New motors are $257 in Canada + 13% tax true north strong and free
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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by PKSlice
Agreed about changing the motor if fuse blows, EXCEPT my electronics guy opened the motor and cleaned it up so it's better than a used one that has not been inspected.

New motors are $257 in Canada + 13% tax true north strong and free
The motor brushes wear down and create the dead spots that you are experiencing...cleaning does not change the condition of the brushes in a motor.
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Old Dec 17, 2024 | 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by cindyclk
The motor brushes wear down and create the dead spots that you are experiencing...cleaning does not change the condition of the brushes in a motor.
I’m an electronic guy too, and the first thing an electronics guy would check are the brushes.
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