Minor mods to make the car even better on track
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2008
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From: Overland Park, KS
‘24 BMW iX M60
Minor mods to make the car even better on track
I am seriously thinking of trading the GT-R for a Black series. As I will be tracking the car, what are some easy and not too costly modifications that can make the car faster on a road course besides a dedicated track wheel/tyre set-up?
Also, are the OEM brake pads up to the job or should they be replaced ASAP?
Any help/advice appreciated.
Bish
Also, are the OEM brake pads up to the job or should they be replaced ASAP?
Any help/advice appreciated.
Bish
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 207
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From: Mid Atlantic
CLK BS
Bish,
Here are a couple of threads with good info to get you started:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk63-bla...lp-please.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk63-bla...ack-track.html
The BS is really designed for the track and you don't really need much, just a good alignment to start. My bone stock BS took two track days with absolutely no issues at all.
Stock tires are pzero corsas, which are the best there is for the BS on track--I think most ppl would agree on this board. Same for brake pads, OEM is very good unless you want to go all out or if you're heavy on the brake.
The oem rotors are good as well, but with repeated abuse there might be some cracks (normal for drilled). I'm getting some slotted rotors from Evo but it's really just my mod bug and not an absolute necessity. This is surprising b/c GTR owners seem to complain quite a bit about their brakes, especially considering the GTR weighs a bit less and has bigger rotors.
I know you're quite active on NAGTROC, why the sudden change? Can't wait for the DBA in '12?
Here are a couple of threads with good info to get you started:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk63-bla...lp-please.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk63-bla...ack-track.html
The BS is really designed for the track and you don't really need much, just a good alignment to start. My bone stock BS took two track days with absolutely no issues at all.
Stock tires are pzero corsas, which are the best there is for the BS on track--I think most ppl would agree on this board. Same for brake pads, OEM is very good unless you want to go all out or if you're heavy on the brake.
The oem rotors are good as well, but with repeated abuse there might be some cracks (normal for drilled). I'm getting some slotted rotors from Evo but it's really just my mod bug and not an absolute necessity. This is surprising b/c GTR owners seem to complain quite a bit about their brakes, especially considering the GTR weighs a bit less and has bigger rotors.
I know you're quite active on NAGTROC, why the sudden change? Can't wait for the DBA in '12?
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Naperville, IL/Chicago
2008 CLK63 Black Series 2012 C63 Black Series 2014 SLS Black Series
Springs, more aggresive alignment, steel brake lines, in that order, those mods will not brake the bank and will be noticable. Stock suspension is good and fully adjustable, no need to replace anything except the previously mentioned springs. Stock brake pads are great, don't bother with anything else. If you want to go a little further switch over to 2-piece rear rotors. From there I would go with aero stuff, the car needs some additional downforce but really needs additional rear downforce. If you want some additional HP go with an ecu tune and airbox/filter/intake mods. Obviously you can go on and on but the Springs, and alignment will make a noticable difference in feel and handling and I recomend the steel lines if you are going to be running any long sessions, this is a 3800 pound car.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 1,007
From: Overland Park, KS
‘24 BMW iX M60
Bish,
Here are a couple of threads with good info to get you started:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk63-bla...lp-please.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk63-bla...ack-track.html
The BS is really designed for the track and you don't really need much, just a good alignment to start. My bone stock BS took two track days with absolutely no issues at all.
Stock tires are pzero corsas, which are the best there is for the BS on track--I think most ppl would agree on this board. Same for brake pads, OEM is very good unless you want to go all out or if you're heavy on the brake.
The oem rotors are good as well, but with repeated abuse there might be some cracks (normal for drilled). I'm getting some slotted rotors from Evo but it's really just my mod bug and not an absolute necessity. This is surprising b/c GTR owners seem to complain quite a bit about their brakes, especially considering the GTR weighs a bit less and has bigger rotors.
I know you're quite active on NAGTROC, why the sudden change? Can't wait for the DBA in '12?
Here are a couple of threads with good info to get you started:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk63-bla...lp-please.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk63-bla...ack-track.html
The BS is really designed for the track and you don't really need much, just a good alignment to start. My bone stock BS took two track days with absolutely no issues at all.
Stock tires are pzero corsas, which are the best there is for the BS on track--I think most ppl would agree on this board. Same for brake pads, OEM is very good unless you want to go all out or if you're heavy on the brake.
The oem rotors are good as well, but with repeated abuse there might be some cracks (normal for drilled). I'm getting some slotted rotors from Evo but it's really just my mod bug and not an absolute necessity. This is surprising b/c GTR owners seem to complain quite a bit about their brakes, especially considering the GTR weighs a bit less and has bigger rotors.
I know you're quite active on NAGTROC, why the sudden change? Can't wait for the DBA in '12?
I love the GT-R, but I've had it for two years now and that's a long time for me to keep a car. If I keep it, I'm getting coilovers and some additional cooling options, then I'd probably keep it long term, which is not my normal MO. The other option is to get something different that is already track worthy from the factory, and there's few cars set up that way; the 'Black' being one of them. I've been thinking about the Black series for about a year now and was offered good money for my GT-R today in trade, hence I'm thinking about this again. Decisions, decisions! If only it was simple!! lol
Bish
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 1,007
From: Overland Park, KS
‘24 BMW iX M60
Springs, more aggresive alignment, steel brake lines, in that order, those mods will not brake the bank and will be noticable. Stock suspension is good and fully adjustable, no need to replace anything except the previously mentioned springs. Stock brake pads are great, don't bother with anything else. If you want to go a little further switch over to 2-piece rear rotors. From there I would go with aero stuff, the car needs some additional downforce but really needs additional rear downforce. If you want some additional HP go with an ecu tune and airbox/filter/intake mods. Obviously you can go on and on but the Springs, and alignment will make a noticable difference in feel and handling and I recomend the steel lines if you are going to be running any long sessions, this is a 3800 pound car.
Bish
Last edited by thebishman; Sep 1, 2010 at 08:13 PM.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,524
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From: Overland Park, KS
‘24 BMW iX M60
Quick question guys: How are you remaining stable in the car on track? Using a half cage; harness bar; 4/5 point belts, what?
Also, I would be getting a dedicated set of track wheels/tyres. Does placing slightly wider rubber front and rear help any, or is the OEM sizing perfect for the car?
Lastly, a MB salesman told me that these cars don't come with Bluetooth able to be hooked up and there's no usual MB Bluetooth 'puck' that can be installed. Is this correct?
Bish
Also, I would be getting a dedicated set of track wheels/tyres. Does placing slightly wider rubber front and rear help any, or is the OEM sizing perfect for the car?
Lastly, a MB salesman told me that these cars don't come with Bluetooth able to be hooked up and there's no usual MB Bluetooth 'puck' that can be installed. Is this correct?
Bish
Last edited by thebishman; Sep 2, 2010 at 05:58 PM. Reason: More questions
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Cave Creek, AZ and Newport Beach
'22 G 63 AMG, '21 GLE 53 AMG, '20 NSX
Quick question guys: How are you remaining stable in the car on track? Using a half cage; harness bar; 4/5 point belts, what?
Also, I would be getting a dedicated set of track wheels/tyres. Does placing slightly wider rubber front and rear help any, or is the OEM sizing perfect for the car?
Lastly, a MB salesman told me that these cars don't come with Bluetooth able to be hooked up and there's no usual MB Bluetooth 'puck' that can be installed. Is this correct?
Bish
Also, I would be getting a dedicated set of track wheels/tyres. Does placing slightly wider rubber front and rear help any, or is the OEM sizing perfect for the car?
Lastly, a MB salesman told me that these cars don't come with Bluetooth able to be hooked up and there's no usual MB Bluetooth 'puck' that can be installed. Is this correct?
Bish
MB has a bluetooth kit for the car. This forum is a better source of information than your dealer.
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'14 ML BT
Under the center armrest
Evosport has 12mm spacers that also help a bit with grip, every inch (or so) counts.
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CLK 63 AMG Black
Personally, I don't think you need to do anything but work on the tire pressures. The car has a lot of corner entry oversteer, particularly til the rears warm up. If I was going to practice anything, it would be turning off the traction control. There is no "first place" at track days. You are working to get the best out of yourself. The stock BS will let you do that.
The CLK convertible Bluetooth unit can be fitted, Dealer charged me $2500, and it works perfectly. Have fun. AS
The CLK convertible Bluetooth unit can be fitted, Dealer charged me $2500, and it works perfectly. Have fun. AS
Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 207
Likes: 3
From: Mid Atlantic
CLK BS
Bish:
In regard to bluetooth: Yes the factory way is probably your best bet, but $2500? Wow I didn't know it was THAT much.
Your other choice would be Dension 500 Gateway, which has the option of adding a small bluetooth module. The BS stock has no Ipod connectivity, you'll have to get a factory aux input but even then you can't control the ipod via the headunit. Dension gives you both bluetooth and ipod for $550, plus maybe 200-300 for install, so it's a cheaper route. It aint "OEM," but it also won't cost you that much.
In regard to bluetooth: Yes the factory way is probably your best bet, but $2500? Wow I didn't know it was THAT much.
Your other choice would be Dension 500 Gateway, which has the option of adding a small bluetooth module. The BS stock has no Ipod connectivity, you'll have to get a factory aux input but even then you can't control the ipod via the headunit. Dension gives you both bluetooth and ipod for $550, plus maybe 200-300 for install, so it's a cheaper route. It aint "OEM," but it also won't cost you that much.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 347
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From: surrey
CLK AMG BLACK SERIES (among other German things)
Personally, I don't think you need to do anything but work on the tire pressures. The car has a lot of corner entry oversteer, particularly til the rears warm up. If I was going to practice anything, it would be turning off the traction control. There is no "first place" at track days. You are working to get the best out of yourself. The stock BS will let you do that.
The CLK convertible Bluetooth unit can be fitted, Dealer charged me $2500, and it works perfectly. Have fun. AS
The CLK convertible Bluetooth unit can be fitted, Dealer charged me $2500, and it works perfectly. Have fun. AS
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'14 ML BT
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CLK63 Black Series
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2010
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2018 E63S Wagon
Bish:
In regard to bluetooth: Yes the factory way is probably your best bet, but $2500? Wow I didn't know it was THAT much.
Your other choice would be Dension 500 Gateway, which has the option of adding a small bluetooth module. The BS stock has no Ipod connectivity, you'll have to get a factory aux input but even then you can't control the ipod via the headunit. Dension gives you both bluetooth and ipod for $550, plus maybe 200-300 for install, so it's a cheaper route. It aint "OEM," but it also won't cost you that much.
In regard to bluetooth: Yes the factory way is probably your best bet, but $2500? Wow I didn't know it was THAT much.
Your other choice would be Dension 500 Gateway, which has the option of adding a small bluetooth module. The BS stock has no Ipod connectivity, you'll have to get a factory aux input but even then you can't control the ipod via the headunit. Dension gives you both bluetooth and ipod for $550, plus maybe 200-300 for install, so it's a cheaper route. It aint "OEM," but it also won't cost you that much.
Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 207
Likes: 3
From: Mid Atlantic
CLK BS
That's true, but I prefer controlling ipod through the nav/headunit screen. The speedo screen is too small for me.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Naperville, IL/Chicago
2008 CLK63 Black Series 2012 C63 Black Series 2014 SLS Black Series
The iPods in these Black Series are a bit of a mystery and always a topic of conversation. A few guys did not get any iPod hook up, some guys claim theirs don't charge their iPod(mine charges just fine) a few guys claim they can control through speedo/instrument screen. Did MB just throw in whatever they had sitting around? Why so many different variations?
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,524
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From: Overland Park, KS
‘24 BMW iX M60
Not sure what you mean by this.
I've been tracking cars for 16 years. Most who know me would say that I am a very accomplished HPDE advanced group driver. I in no way would consider myself a 'professional' or anywhere close to that level; neither do I wish to be. However, from past experience I know that various modifications to the car, especially in the suspension dept. can, and do enable one to decrease one's track time by 2-5 seconds on many tracks.
If by lowering the Black; having a competition alignment; adjusting the re-bound and compression and running on DOT track tyres will lower my lap times by 2-5 seconds; it's well worth it, at least to me.
Bish
I've been tracking cars for 16 years. Most who know me would say that I am a very accomplished HPDE advanced group driver. I in no way would consider myself a 'professional' or anywhere close to that level; neither do I wish to be. However, from past experience I know that various modifications to the car, especially in the suspension dept. can, and do enable one to decrease one's track time by 2-5 seconds on many tracks.
If by lowering the Black; having a competition alignment; adjusting the re-bound and compression and running on DOT track tyres will lower my lap times by 2-5 seconds; it's well worth it, at least to me.
Bish
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Joined: Feb 2004
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'14 ML BT
(Unless they drive BMW M's.)
Having said that, I modded my CL55 and picked up 100hp and 100+ ft/lbs of torque ..... but I knew that power would never have to turn a corner!
Last edited by DFW01E55; Sep 6, 2010 at 12:15 AM.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Cave Creek, AZ and Newport Beach
'22 G 63 AMG, '21 GLE 53 AMG, '20 NSX
Jimmy's recommeded set up. (Stolen from KW's race engineer that I spent two days with in Germany)
1. go with wheel spacers their cheap and it makes the car look good and you'll be able to dial in more camber since the wheels are farther out.
2. competition alignment and ride height set up. Stock alignment is crap. This is worth 2 seconds on a 2.5 mile track.
3. play with the KW shocks, they are EASY to adjust and you'll feel even one step changes unlike Penski's, Jrz, Bilsteins where you're always chasing your tail on set up.
4. drive the car for at least 2 track days before making any other changes.
5. Send me $100.
1. go with wheel spacers their cheap and it makes the car look good and you'll be able to dial in more camber since the wheels are farther out.
2. competition alignment and ride height set up. Stock alignment is crap. This is worth 2 seconds on a 2.5 mile track.
3. play with the KW shocks, they are EASY to adjust and you'll feel even one step changes unlike Penski's, Jrz, Bilsteins where you're always chasing your tail on set up.
4. drive the car for at least 2 track days before making any other changes.
5. Send me $100.
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CLK 63 AMG Black
Not sure what you mean by this.
I've been tracking cars for 16 years. Most who know me would say that I am a very accomplished HPDE advanced group driver. I in no way would consider myself a 'professional' or anywhere close to that level; neither do I wish to be. However, from past experience I know that various modifications to the car, especially in the suspension dept. can, and do enable one to decrease one's track time by 2-5 seconds on many tracks.
If by lowering the Black; having a competition alignment; adjusting the re-bound and compression and running on DOT track tyres will lower my lap times by 2-5 seconds; it's well worth it, at least to me.
Bish
I've been tracking cars for 16 years. Most who know me would say that I am a very accomplished HPDE advanced group driver. I in no way would consider myself a 'professional' or anywhere close to that level; neither do I wish to be. However, from past experience I know that various modifications to the car, especially in the suspension dept. can, and do enable one to decrease one's track time by 2-5 seconds on many tracks.
If by lowering the Black; having a competition alignment; adjusting the re-bound and compression and running on DOT track tyres will lower my lap times by 2-5 seconds; it's well worth it, at least to me.
Bish
There is always a faster, lighter car that is another 3 seconds quicker. If you aren't overheating the engine, frying the brakes, or rolling the front tires onto the sidewalls, then the car is good enough. The point of track driving is to maximize your skills, not "beat" some other guy. Modding is needed on lots of cars because the brake pedal goes to the floor, or you grind off the outer edge of the front tires, or the understeer is so prominent that you are just driving around the outside edge of the corner or forcing rotation with the brakes.
The BS will do all of the things it needs to do to allow you to put in as many laps as you want. Turn off the traction control (because otherwise you will heat the brakes unknowingly), and let the rear tires warm up, then bleed the rears down to about 40, and use a pyrometer to adjust the fronts. I tend to wind up with about 44 front, but it may vary right/left, depending on track, temps, etc.
Your first five laps will always be an adventure, because the front turns in better than the rear wants to stick. Have fun. AS
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From: Central Florida
2013 Chevy 427 Torch Red
Quick question guys: How are you remaining stable in the car on track? Using a half cage; harness bar; 4/5 point belts, what?
Also, I would be getting a dedicated set of track wheels/tyres. Does placing slightly wider rubber front and rear help any, or is the OEM sizing perfect for the car?
Lastly, a MB salesman told me that these cars don't come with Bluetooth able to be hooked up and there's no usual MB Bluetooth 'puck' that can be installed. Is this correct?
Bish
Also, I would be getting a dedicated set of track wheels/tyres. Does placing slightly wider rubber front and rear help any, or is the OEM sizing perfect for the car?
Lastly, a MB salesman told me that these cars don't come with Bluetooth able to be hooked up and there's no usual MB Bluetooth 'puck' that can be installed. Is this correct?
Bish
http://www.cg-lock.com/track.html
