thebishman

I am seriously thinking of trading the GT-R for a Black series. As I will be tracking the car, what are some easy and not too costly modifications that can make the car faster on a road course besides a dedicated track wheel/tyre set-up?

Also, are the OEM brake pads up to the job or should they be replaced ASAP?

Any help/advice appreciated.

Bish

GeoGeo

Bish,

Here are a couple of threads with good info to get you started:

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk63-bla...lp-please.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk63-bla...ack-track.html

The BS is really designed for the track and you don't really need much, just a good alignment to start. My bone stock BS took two track days with absolutely no issues at all.

Stock tires are pzero corsas, which are the best there is for the BS on track--I think most ppl would agree on this board. Same for brake pads, OEM is very good unless you want to go all out or if you're heavy on the brake.

The oem rotors are good as well, but with repeated abuse there might be some cracks (normal for drilled). I'm getting some slotted rotors from Evo but it's really just my mod bug and not an absolute necessity. This is surprising b/c GTR owners seem to complain quite a bit about their brakes, especially considering the GTR weighs a bit less and has bigger rotors.

I know you're quite active on NAGTROC, why the sudden change? Can't wait for the DBA in '12?

jrcart

Springs, more aggresive alignment, steel brake lines, in that order, those mods will not brake the bank and will be noticable. Stock suspension is good and fully adjustable, no need to replace anything except the previously mentioned springs. Stock brake pads are great, don't bother with anything else. If you want to go a little further switch over to 2-piece rear rotors. From there I would go with aero stuff, the car needs some additional downforce but really needs additional rear downforce. If you want some additional HP go with an ecu tune and airbox/filter/intake mods. Obviously you can go on and on but the Springs, and alignment will make a noticable difference in feel and handling and I recomend the steel lines if you are going to be running any long sessions, this is a 3800 pound car.

thebishman

Thanks for the tips.

I love the GT-R, but I've had it for two years now and that's a long time for me to keep a car. If I keep it, I'm getting coilovers and some additional cooling options, then I'd probably keep it long term, which is not my normal MO. The other option is to get something different that is already track worthy from the factory, and there's few cars set up that way; the 'Black' being one of them. I've been thinking about the Black series for about a year now and was offered good money for my GT-R today in trade, hence I'm thinking about this again. Decisions, decisions! If only it was simple!! lol

Bish

thebishman

Thanks for the above. Great advice.

Bish

thebishman

Quick question guys: How are you remaining stable in the car on track? Using a half cage; harness bar; 4/5 point belts, what?

Also, I would be getting a dedicated set of track wheels/tyres. Does placing slightly wider rubber front and rear help any, or is the OEM sizing perfect for the car?

Lastly, a MB salesman told me that these cars don't come with Bluetooth able to be hooked up and there's no usual MB Bluetooth 'puck' that can be installed. Is this correct?

Bish

Jim Brady

The high bolstered seats are excellent in keeping you stable. I've got a 6 point harness with a roll bar but it's not necessary, just that some clubs require saftey equipment. More front rubber is mo better and rear too.
MB has a bluetooth kit for the car. This forum is a better source of information than your dealer.

DFW01E55

Bah! Car salesmen are their own worst enemies.
Under the center armrest

Evosport has 12mm spacers that also help a bit with grip, every inch (or so) counts.

alexander stemer

Personally, I don't think you need to do anything but work on the tire pressures. The car has a lot of corner entry oversteer, particularly til the rears warm up. If I was going to practice anything, it would be turning off the traction control. There is no "first place" at track days. You are working to get the best out of yourself. The stock BS will let you do that.
The CLK convertible Bluetooth unit can be fitted, Dealer charged me $2500, and it works perfectly. Have fun. AS

GeoGeo

Bish:

In regard to bluetooth: Yes the factory way is probably your best bet, but $2500? Wow I didn't know it was THAT much.

Your other choice would be Dension 500 Gateway, which has the option of adding a small bluetooth module. The BS stock has no Ipod connectivity, you'll have to get a factory aux input but even then you can't control the ipod via the headunit. Dension gives you both bluetooth and ipod for $550, plus maybe 200-300 for install, so it's a cheaper route. It aint "OEM," but it also won't cost you that much.

WTDoom

What pressures you recommend matey ?

DFW01E55

Sorry Geo but the ipod cable was the only option (outside of color). I got lucky and mine had it.

GeoGeo

I see...I wasn't so lucky but I'm working on it

SMP

Once you get the exhaust done like mine you'll forget about that sissy iPod cable in no time

Carac

The factory ipod connectivity gives you full control through the speedo screen, just like navigating the ipod itself. As far as bluetooth, I bought one of the pucks off ebay for $130 and just plugged it into the center console, voila.

GeoGeo

That's true, but I prefer controlling ipod through the nav/headunit screen. The speedo screen is too small for me.

jrcart

The iPods in these Black Series are a bit of a mystery and always a topic of conversation. A few guys did not get any iPod hook up, some guys claim theirs don't charge their iPod(mine charges just fine) a few guys claim they can control through speedo/instrument screen. Did MB just throw in whatever they had sitting around? Why so many different variations?

forhamilton

Save your mod money and go to racing school.

thebishman

Not sure what you mean by this.

I've been tracking cars for 16 years. Most who know me would say that I am a very accomplished HPDE advanced group driver. I in no way would consider myself a 'professional' or anywhere close to that level; neither do I wish to be. However, from past experience I know that various modifications to the car, especially in the suspension dept. can, and do enable one to decrease one's track time by 2-5 seconds on many tracks.

If by lowering the Black; having a competition alignment; adjusting the re-bound and compression and running on DOT track tyres will lower my lap times by 2-5 seconds; it's well worth it, at least to me.

Bish

forhamilton

^^based on your description I agree. Most start modding far before their skills are even close to the car in stock condition.

DFW01E55

And it's always about more speed. How often do you hear someone say, "I need more braking"?
(Unless they drive BMW M's.)

Having said that, I modded my CL55 and picked up 100hp and 100+ ft/lbs of torque ..... but I knew that power would never have to turn a corner!

Jim Brady

Jimmy's recommeded set up. (Stolen from KW's race engineer that I spent two days with in Germany)
1. go with wheel spacers their cheap and it makes the car look good and you'll be able to dial in more camber since the wheels are farther out.
2. competition alignment and ride height set up. Stock alignment is crap. This is worth 2 seconds on a 2.5 mile track.
3. play with the KW shocks, they are EASY to adjust and you'll feel even one step changes unlike Penski's, Jrz, Bilsteins where you're always chasing your tail on set up.
4. drive the car for at least 2 track days before making any other changes.
5. Send me $100.

jenk12m

I like number 5. Lol

alexander stemer

This may sound odd, but the question is, "Why?"
There is always a faster, lighter car that is another 3 seconds quicker. If you aren't overheating the engine, frying the brakes, or rolling the front tires onto the sidewalls, then the car is good enough. The point of track driving is to maximize your skills, not "beat" some other guy. Modding is needed on lots of cars because the brake pedal goes to the floor, or you grind off the outer edge of the front tires, or the understeer is so prominent that you are just driving around the outside edge of the corner or forcing rotation with the brakes.
The BS will do all of the things it needs to do to allow you to put in as many laps as you want. Turn off the traction control (because otherwise you will heat the brakes unknowingly), and let the rear tires warm up, then bleed the rears down to about 40, and use a pyrometer to adjust the fronts. I tend to wind up with about 44 front, but it may vary right/left, depending on track, temps, etc.
Your first five laps will always be an adventure, because the front turns in better than the rear wants to stick. Have fun. AS

hhughes1

For those of us that are stuck with the factory seat belt and shoulder harness, this little device helps keep you planted in the seat.

http://www.cg-lock.com/track.html