Yes, VRP billet turbos do mention that there is no need to pull the engine. It's pretty bolt-on stuff. But it will be time-consuming if you are going to do a DIY. But as Pekkah mentioned, AWD might require the engine pull.

I am going to do the Meth kit before I do the turbos. The engine is making 45% hp and 55% tq higher than stock. So there is quite a bit of heat. It's a good idea to either really upgrade your cooling system or install the Meth kit to avoid engine knock and further damage. I'd run the Meth at high boost so it will keep the engine temps pretty low. I've heard it will drop even up to 100F temp with Meth. The only way you'll mess up with Meth kit is if you didn't follow the installation instructions or cheap out on the kit. Also, if you have it tuned on Meth and you run out of Meth. I'm planning to get that kit sometime this year and use it for cooling effects only, no tune.

 

You did mention good what the risk are when using meth. It might be good that you are using it only cooling, much safer. Yes the benefits are great anyways. Im looking how your meth system will go forward.

 

maybe im wrong, and i might be if the bolts seize but i believe u can unbolt the turbo from the manifold.

im thinking i do that. Throw a turbo blanket on it and charge tubes for the methanol at the same time. All from the front

 

my only question is will the turbo blanket lessen the lifespan of the turbos since it will be keeping a lot of heat inside? That's my only concern about the turbo blankets. Because I did see a video on turbo blankets and the only concern they mentioned was to make sure the turbo can maintain the higher heat with the blankets.

Also, where exactly would the Meth injector be installed? Before turbo or after the turbo placement?

 

I think it could protect the rest of the engine. But I am unsure. Meth injectors going into the ASV tubes that VRP and weistec have (I believe they come with the ports). I would guess that is after turbos.

Talked to VRP a bit yesterday. You can just unbolt the turbo from manifold (if the bolts haven't seized). I'm asking about doing some DIY videos for the install.

 

So I just took another look at the BOV pipes and meth kit combo from VRP, yes, the meth injectors go right before the pipes connect to the engine. So after the turbo. I take it that those welded spots are where the meth injectors go.

I highly believe you can DIY the meth kit by following the instructions. I need to do some research on the BOV and if it is really necessary since it's kinda expensive for me haha.

 

Nothing has happen. My tuner has been very sick long time, so no TCU or remapping. And my M157 turbos are still in turbo shop. Their people has been sick there also. Winter is coming in Finland so seems like this project is going forward maybe april or may 2021..

 

That's an awful amount of wait time for a major project like that. I hope everyone gets well soon and get you the M157 turbos haha.

How much hp and tq are you thinking you might get with the M157 turbos?
Forgive me if you have already mentioned, but do you currently have Stage 1 or 2 ECU tune?

 

Hey everyone. Not sure why I just saw this thread, but I wanted to come in and address a few of the thing mentioned in this thread.

The guys running 10's with an M278 is definitely running a ****-ton of methanol. Or he has a 5.5 block-swap or something. That car is too fast for what mods you guys said he had.

For the methanol kit with the ports in the tubes, post-turbo/pre-intercooler. This position will do nothing for the car in the way of making power, or even keeping it cooler. Unfortunately that causes puddling in the intercooler. Honestly, the best place for cooling with no tuning, is pre-turbo with a very fine, light mist(mix of meth/h2o is hotly debated). There is one of the AMG guys who run it with great results and he does a really good job explaining it as well. Here is his thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...orks-m157.html

IAC's: All M278 cars have an intercooler in the intake(rather, just before the intake), and a radiator(heat exchanger) in the right side behind the bumper, to help cool the water after it leaves the intercooler. You can upgrade your stock cover with the Alpha one, or there are some cheaper ones, that are basically double the size of the stock one and replace it, fitting in the stock location. Some cars in 2012 have the "split-cooling" system as it was added in late 2012, mine does not. My car is pretty highly modded and makes a lot of power, so I see higher temps when running boost(making hits, etc), but it comes down very quickly as my pump is wired to come on when ignition is on. Easy mod to help with higher IATs. Honestly, I think the pre-turbo meth system is the cure for all this, probably going to be my next project soon.

I have:
•Stage 3/SS(Secret Squirrel) Ecu Tune
•Tcu Tune
•3" Catless Downpipes/Exhaust
•I/C Pump on w/Ignition
•Homemade intake(working on this currently, will have more info soon. Having to make some changes before doing any more testing)

I run 3.1sec 0-60
11.39@122mph
All done on street(summer) tires
Estimated power: 665-675hp & over 750tq???

Let me know if you have any questions I didn't address and I'll be happy to so.

Scott

 

This project is going slowly forward. AMG turbos come back from turbo shop. Cleaned and balanced now. Also some stuff that I ordered are now in my hands. Heres a list if some one after me needs the information.

Engine mount L : A212 240 61 17 Q1
Engine mount R: A212 240 62 17 Q1
Transmission mount/bearing: A 204 240 06 18
Two Turbo manifold gaskets: A 278 142 04 80 and A 278 142 05 80
Two Turbo to bridge pipe gaskets: A 278 142 03 80 and A 278 142 02 80

Also all oil and waterline seals and rings:
Two MA 278 181 06 80
Five MA 027 997 06 45
Three A 027 997 06 45
Two A 023 997 45 45 64
Two MA 023 997 46 45 64
Two MA 020 997 95 45
Two A 278 181 05 80

A hell expensive list include turbo work, but yes Merc hobby is an expensive game

Engine is going out and AMG turbos and stuff in 29.3.

Hope in 26.4 car is going custom tuned and also TCU tune then. My tuner in Finland have now TCU tuned some AMG Mercedes with good results.

My tuner is also working with wiring diagrams so maybe we can get those M157 fuel pumps working full properly like they should and no compromises there.

 

Okey, I have now new days coming and really waiting these. In Monday 22.3 engine is finally going down and AMG turbos in! And 30.3 will be custom ECU and TCU tune session on dyno and road.

Still some work on to get full understanding what is the difference in original and AMG fuel pump wiring to get that AMG pump work full like it should. On Monday CLS is going to car electrician, lets see what he can solve then. I have now PDF format on original fuel pump and fuel pump controller wiring and also on AMG.

 

What problems are you having with the AMG fuel pumps? The 550 fuel pump controller can drive this pump properly as you have it wired. However a few 550 fuel maps need to be changed to 63 maps in the tune to run the pumps optimally. Also if you are looking for fast quarter mile times, a custom tcu tune is a must. My tcu torque limiters are set at 1200nm on all gears to avoid interfering with the ecu's torque settings. Another thing to keep in mind is the 550 ecu maps are significantly limited vs. AMG maps when it comes to power production. You'll need quite a few 550 maps switched to AMG or modified AMG maps to get big power out of the engine with consistency. My car on 100 octane unleaded or E-30 on AMG pumps, makes 813hp and 1040nm of torque and is very consistent.

 

First off all thank you for coming in and sharing this info to me! I did sent you PM.

The common problem is sometimes long starts and people with this fuel pump set up has suffer it on USA also. Sometimes it throw a code P008A. ( Low pressure fuel system pressure too low). Its like the fuel line pressure drops when car is not driven. I have sort this by turning the ignition key a few times on power (no starting) and I can hear when pump sometimes make the weird "tsunk tsunk" voices. It will sometimes do those "tsunk tsunks" when I open the door and motor is not running. When I do this key thing I havent get any codes anymore. Original fuel pump didn't ever make that kind of sounds.

I think the second problem is that when driving in cruising speeds like on highway etc. and put a little more gas the car (AMG pump) doesn't do it adequate and smooth like on original pump does. On full gas it seems to running fine.

 

Hi. After several problems the turbo swap will finally be in 7.6. This has been very frustrating waiting time and still continue..

 

I've been following this thread and yes, this project is taking quite some time to finish. But as long as everything is coming along slowly. Just to recap, I forego the Methanol upgrade and moving on to E85. Just waiting for the file now. Eurocharged showed a dyno of M278 E550 with getting 573whp and 660+ wtq. (don't know the exact tq numbers rn).

I am still thinking about M157 turbo upgrade, but not yet. Am keeping an eye on this thread and others. So I appreciate you all jotting down the part numbers and all the other miscellaneous information for this build.

Good luck!!

 

Thanks man, its been horrible time to wait. ECU and TCU custom tune should be in 9.6. The last let down was that mechanic did injured when he was bmx biking. His back was operated and he was long time not able to work.

It would be really nice to see the E85 gains on this platform. Looking forward to hear and see our results! Can you be sure that the tiny M278 pump can handle that kind off E85 sending without going to lean? My MY2008 Saab runs with E85 and fuel. So it would be more than nice if our cars could be flex fuel cars, so the ECU can adapt what ever mixture is in tank. For now I dot want to make some about 40% ethanol soup. . Maybe that time will come

 

EC did mention that I can safely run E85 fuel on stock parts. But I need keep the Ethanol content under 50%. So basically I can only run up to E50 mix and rest the 91 gas pump. But I am going to run around 30-40% Ethanol content, just to be on the safer side. No need to upgrade pumps, lines, injectors if running under 50%. A few of the guys already have it, some on M278 and some on M157. They both ran up to 50% and saw quite a decent amount of gains. I will be super happy if I get to 550whp instead of 573whp EC showed me the dyno of. If I do, that would be the cheapest mod to hp ratio lol.

 

What monitoring tool u are going to use? Something like this perhaps? http://spoolperformance.us/index.php...&product_id=88

 

hey, can you provide more infornation, exactly which maps need to be switched to amg version. My tuner is having difficulty extracting power on my amg swapped e550.

 

Well, you can run one of those or a sensor to see what's the exact ethanol content in the fuel. But most of us who are running the E85 mix is with stock and no sensors. As long as you know the exact ethanol content of the E85 of that pump, it is easy to calculate a pretty accurate % of ethanol in the fuel.

I went to the E85 pump today and the guy getting E85 for his BMW, said this pump has ~80% ethanol. So I did the calculation, based on 80% and I am running a total of E30-E35 with a mixture of 91 pump gas. My octane rating should be ~96-97. I added almost 7 gallons of E85 and 14 gallons of 91 gas.

I still have to dyno the car once I believe I'm at 40-50% ethanol. EC showed me dyno if 573whp with 50%.

 

So we are going to install extra IC circuit cooling in same time when turbos are coming in. No engine extra cooling just IC system. I have now following stuff if someone is going this route after me. I need to get webasto system off, that is placed on the right side bumper where the extra heat IC is going to be installed.

Right side AMG E/CLS 63 S models Heat exchanger A0995003203
Heat exchanger hanger R 2125200841
Heat exchanger hanger A 2185010720
Heat exchanger Frame plastic/rubber A 2125001416





and water wetter

 

Now M157 turbos and other stuff is installed and today was tuning session. It was really stupid hot in dyno garage 100,4F /38c. Terrible hot.. Car didn't knock even on that heat and everything went nice and clean.

My tuner did the TCU tune and some ECU base work for next time, suppose to be later in this summer when the condition are normal without that killer heat! We didn't want to kill the car on the dyno, because it will need several pulls. Now the safe base to continue next time is 636hv 1048nm.

Now the car is safe to drive. I need to let the TCU/ gearbox tune to adapt and drive not too aggressive for awhile. I can say that car is performing pretty nice even on that tune. TCU is no longer doing any over rated limitings.

My tuner did assume that he can tune it to reach 700hv and torque on 1000-1100nm range. Will see what number will come then. I will also dragy the car some day.

 

Impressive. How long are you allowing the car to adapt to the new power? How many miles?

 

Thanks. I adapt it like 300km using manual shifting, eco and sport modes, some mild pulls first.

Btw. We did leave really conservative tune on my car (608hv and 900nm. ) for now. I did Dragy it today and car went 0-60mph 3,41s time even now on low power tune. New turbos are doing their job nicely Remember too that my shooting brakes weight is 2005 kg stock and some sub etc. is under the rear floor so the weight is like 2050kg I think.

More power to come and new custom ECU tune dyno session after the weather won't be this stupid hot in here.

 

Gawdamnn. Haha. I guess I will have to painfully and patiently wait to do my own turbo upgrade. What does your tuner think is the max power limits for m278 and 722.9?
And a stupid question lol, i notice that you use "hv" while western countries use "hp." What is the full meaning of hv? And I think the way European and western countries measure horsepower, there is always a slight discrepancy between the #s.