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Recently I've been daydreaming about new wheels, and it occured to me that my current 9.5 rears are still tucked in under the rear fender. I think it looks a tad silly, and in the future want wheels that are flush with the rear fender like the fronts are. Has anyone conquered this hurdle and would like to share their success? It's mostly for the the looks since 4matic takes care of the traction. Also I may end up moving away from a staggered setup, has anyone done so and still gotten good fitment? I'm fairly new to wheels so any guidance is appreciated.
Whether you go square or keep the staggered, you gotta make sure the rolling diameters remains identical. Just make sure to keep the tires within 1% diameter that keeps the clutch packs from burning up and self destruction of your transfer case. Width don't matter. I found this out with the 20s on mine.
I have since found the answer to be 15mm wheel spacers (and new wheels courtesy of a pothole taking the old ones out)
buyers beware for these (and maybe a few other s class wheels too):
The fronts, though 8.5, don't have a shallow enough offset to clear the brakes without spacers. These wheels use 45mm lugbolts from mercedes, and so a spacer will require the lugnuts to be 45mm+spacer distance. I say this because the 15mm spacer i looked at all came with 45mm lugbolts, so I had to order 60mm lugnuts to get them to fit. I won't reccomend any specific brand since these haven't really had the chance to fail on me yet, but from what I understand most of the amazon ones will do. with the same setup but 9.5 in the rear it matches the body at the center of the wheel but tucks under when airmatic is all the way down (ie when it gets off the jack) so the tire isn't supporting that corner of the car.
Interestingly enough the 9.5 did fit on the pass side front, but hit the air strut on the drivers side. I think a 9 inch front is possible, but I'm not sure I'd go that far. These are 19in wheels.
Hi Blazingrain,To help you with the technical side: I’m running the original 19" AMG Line wheels on my W218.Front: 8.5J x 19 ET34.5 (with 10mm spacers -> effective ET24.5)Rear: 9.5J x 19 ET48 (with 20mm spacers -> effective ET28)Regarding the bolts: I didn't want to guess either. I simply measured the original bolts and bought new ones that were exactly 10mm longer for the front and 20mm longer for the rear. It’s the safest way to ensure the correct thread engagement.With this setup, I have zero issues with the air struts, and it was fully inspected and approved by the German TÜV. It sits perfectly flush and is 100% road legal and safe. Here is a photo of the result!
Woah, that looks awesome! I got my spacers in a set of 4 but now I'm wondering if 20mm on the rear is the way to go for my wheels. TUV approval is awesome; Texas doesn't even inspect for safety anymore (probably the only way I'm getting away with 60mm lugbolts). You've also made me realize I haven't taken it out for photos in a minute, but I found one from a local meet:
Sidenote- is the third brakelight being on the diffuser a European thing? I've never seen it like that on a CLS before but I love the look!
I’m really digging your car too, by the way! It looks super clean.About the TÜV: It definitely has its pros and cons, but in the tuning world, it’s mostly cons. They are basically the 'fun police' here in Germany. Tuning is 10% actually working on the car and 90% fighting with inspectors and rules. The only tiny 'pro' is knowing your wheels won't fly off at 155 mph on the Autobahn!And that light in the diffuser? You caught that! It’s actually the rear fog light, which is mandatory in Europe. I absolutely love it because it gives off those Formula 1 rain light vibes. To be honest, I sometimes drive with it switched on at night even when there’s no fog at all, just because it looks so aggressive and cool. Glad you like it!
I was thinking about changing my rear diffuser, now I need to make sure it has the hole for that foglight! Theres even an adapter to hook it up with the rear taillights for the American cars. I am appreciative of how much freedom in modding we have here in Texas, although over here tuning a benz is 10% work 90% saving up for the tune (the plug in ones start at $1300 (1100 euros) without a dyno run!). It is nice not worrying about getting pulled over for a resonator delete though.
Definitely post a video or an update when you install your new rear diffuser and wire up the brake light. I’d love to see how that turns out!
Man, I’m so jealous of your Texas freedom. Here in Germany, the police will literally tow your car on the spot if they even suspect your exhaust is too loud—even if it's 100% bone stock!The worst part? It sits in an impound lot for up to 3 weeks until a state appraiser officially confirms it's factory before you get your keys back. It's an absolute joke. 😂 Enjoy that resonator delete and the sound without the headache!
CLS can take pretty low ET wheels and wide tires. If ultimate grip is needed even 305 will fit in rear. I have now 20" x 10,5 ET52 + 15mm spacer in rear and fits nice.
Wow, that fitment looks absolutely spot on! 305s in the rear give it a ridiculously aggressive stance.But honestly, with my 265 HP and 620 Nm of torque, my 4Matic and the stock tires are more than enough to handle the power! 😂
Wow, that fitment looks absolutely spot on! 305s in the rear give it a ridiculously aggressive stance.But honestly, with my 265 HP and 620 Nm of torque, my 4Matic and the stock tires are more than enough to handle the power! 😂
I actually drove a RWD CLS 500 once (which is exactly the same as the 550, just our European badge for it) and that thing was constantly spinning the tires and struggling for traction! With that kind of torque just on the rear axle, I totally get why those massive 305s are so important to actually put the power down.
I actually drove a RWD CLS 500 once (which is exactly the same as the 550, just our European badge for it) and that thing was constantly spinning the tires and struggling for traction! With that kind of torque just on the rear axle, I totally get why those massive 305s are so important to actually put the power down.
Okey, I haven't ever drive RWD CLS500 but can be hard to keep on the road when tuned lot. I have 4-matic and still need the 305 Michelin ps4s due about 1200nm torque that it will need to handle.
1200 Nm?! That is absolutely insane! Now I totally get why you need those 305s. What exactly did you do to the car to hit those numbers? How much HP does it make, and what is your 0-60 mph time? That thing must be a rocket!
1200 Nm?! That is absolutely insane! Now I totally get why you need those 305s. What exactly did you do to the car to hit those numbers? How much HP does it make, and what is your 0-60 mph time? That thing must be a rocket!
Yeah shooting brake is running okey, with 2005kg weight. 707hp / 1178nm. 0-60mph fastest Dragy 3,16s, 1/4 mile 10,95s. Im my built topic is all mods that I have done, dyno graph, Dragy screen shots to see if you like.
3.16s to 60mph and a 10.95s quarter mile in a 2005kg Shooting Brake?! That is literally supercar territory! I will definitely head over to your build thread right now to check out the mods and the dyno graphs. Thanks for sharing the details, you have an absolute beast of a wagon!
By the way, I read through your build thread, but I couldn't find anything about the engine internals.How are the stock rods holding up with 1200 Nm? And did you do anything about the Silitec cylinder liners? I know they are highly prone to scoring at those extreme power levels. Did you have to sleeve the block, or is the bottom end completely untouched?
By the way, I read through your build thread, but I couldn't find anything about the engine internals.How are the stock rods holding up with 1200 Nm? And did you do anything about the Silitec cylinder liners? I know they are highly prone to scoring at those extreme power levels. Did you have to sleeve the block, or is the bottom end completely untouched?
Engine and transmission internals are bone stock and still holding well (193 000km now) . I know the risks and have enjoyed the tuning journey and power for about seven years now.
I know a lot tuned M157 and a few M278 guys and those engine failures don't happen often. I think it have be come some kind of myth and people are talking about that and be scared to tune or even buy these engined cars. Everybody can make the decision of course. I have liked this cars so much. When the engine or transmission blows then it blows and it's time to built it. Will see how long they will last.
Haha, 'when it blows, it blows' – love that mindset! Running 1200 Nm on stock internals for 7 years definitely proves some of those internet horror stories wrong.I actually considered buying a 500 or 63 to tune to 700 HP. A 500 is obviously cheaper to buy upfront, but getting it to 700 HP is way more expensive in mods compared to a 63, so you probably end up paying the exact same in the end anyway. Plus, the Silitec and rod issues always made me nervous (even though I know later 500s got the safer steel liners).But a 500 sleeper build definitely has its own charm! If I ever do a project like that, my plan would be to buy one with a blown engine right from the start. Then I could sleeve the block with steel liners, throw in forged internals, and safely build it to push over 700 HP. Keep enjoying your beast!
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I have now 20" x 10,5 ET52 + 15mm spacer in rear and fits nice.
