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Yeah I didn't either. When I had my brakes fill with SRF I had the dealer do it. I just got my car dyno'd and figured out how to put it in dyno mode and there's a brake service mode in there too. Check it out- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpVHHH5sz1Y
BenzGTR,
That is purely for rear brake pad replacement as it releases the Parking brake. It has no function re: brake fluid replacement I believe.
Good to know! So you bled these brakes the same you would on a '69 Camaro? Just do it?
So the shop I used did. Two man technique. One in the car pumping the brake pedal when appropriate and one filling the master cylinder/‘working’ the brake bleeders.
Mercedes front and rear ducts fitted per the MB retrofit, also Pagid RSC1 pads, and Endless RF650 fluid.
Somehow I’ve lost the picture of the front duct installed, but the quality of the parts and the fitment impressed. Interestingly, the parts are from the Pro, MB use these also for this car.
I’ll get the pads bedded in and then get it out on track next week.
Last edited by Pete De La Mare; Oct 16, 2019 at 03:20 PM.
Glad all went well, and awaiting your track report. Try and find that picture of the front brake duct installed. Btw, those metal parts in the lower picture: are they part of the existing OEM heat shield that had to be removed in order for the ducts to channel air to the rotors, or are they RT parts that are installed somewhere?
Need some input regarding aftermarket pads. In the midst of installing Raybestos ST-43 racing pads but there is no provision for the pad wear sensors. Do I connect and just zip tie out of the way? Would hate to leave them not connected and have a dash light. Anyone experience this issue?
Need some input regarding aftermarket pads. In the midst of installing Raybestos ST-43 racing pads but there is no provision for the pad wear sensors. Do I connect and just zip tie out of the way? Would hate to leave them not connected and have a dash light. Anyone experience this issue?
I just buy individual brake pad wear sensors and plug them into the connector and zip-tie them into a loop so they don't rub on anything. On the front there is a little clip in the pad spring that holds the wire in place. The front one kind of melts on track. They are very cheap on AMZN. Do that and then no trouble light on the dash.
These brake pads shims are cut from 0.5mm Titanium 6Al-4V (Grade 5) which offers the lowest thermal conductivity of any titanium. In addition, they're coated with a ceramic thermal barrier to further prevent heat transfer to the brake caliper, pistons and fluid. The coating used for these shims is the same as what is used on high performance pistons.
The pair shown are for the rear. Great for the guys that like to keep the traction control on to keep the brake temps in check and the fluid from boiling. It's the same fitment for carbon ceramics or iron brakes.
I'm still working on making the rear brake ducts for our cars.
These brake pads shims are cut from 0.5mm Titanium 6Al-4V (Grade 5) which offers the lowest thermal conductivity of any titanium. In addition, they're coated with a ceramic thermal barrier to further prevent heat transfer to the brake caliper, pistons and fluid. The coating used for these shims is the same as what is used on high performance pistons.
The pair shown are for the rear. Great for the guys that like to keep the traction control on to keep the brake temps in check and the fluid from boiling. It's the same fitment for carbon ceramics or iron brakes.
I'm still working on making the rear brake ducts for our cars.
First time venturing out on track with this car at Donington Park. This used to be a Grand Prix circuit back in the day.
Impressions, brakes seem to work well. This track is quite hard on brakes with 2 big stops from 135mph in quick succession, plus I'm fairly brutal on the brake pedal. I did a 10 lap session and the brakes didn't vary much. It pitches and rolls more than I thought, but it rides kerbs very well and I don't thing this is a bad thing. It has great rear traction and I didn't reach the limits of it at all, some more seat time will help. I think I'll need to sort some harnesses, but this means a change of seat as the Pole Positions aren't suitable for someone of my size and shape.
One lap video below. The track was quite busy all evening so I didn't get a whole lap clear, the one below was lacking in front end grip as I hadn't warmed them properly and as such run down Craner Curves and the Old Hairpin wasn't ideal.
Another day, another ex-GP track. Brands Hatch GP layout.
I still get more pedal travel than I’d like after 5 fast laps or so. I also think stiffer springs and definitely better tyres are needed. Renntech alignment next month will hopefully make a difference. I want to remain standard though.
Good stuff, Peter. I love Brands Hatch; wish the GB GP switched between Silverstone and it sometimes.
Interesting your comment about the brakes. I simply think that a somewhat ‘soft’ pedal is intrinsic to this car, as I’ve never been able to have a really firm pedal. That being said, the new RSC1 pads and Ti shims worked incredibly well last weekend for my son and myself. In fact given how much abuse the car was subjected to; (running two consecutive run groups without any time to cool down between), it did a fantastic job of keeping the engine oil and transmission temps in check, along with always having strong and predictable braking performance. Unfortunately there was an unknown to me ‘defect’ in a set of rumble strips on a part of the track that I was trying out a new line, and I bent both right sided track wheels in what essentially was a pothole. Not fun to hit at around 120 mph! lol Had to abort the Friday session which sucked as both of us were going to get 2 1/2 hours of track time that day, in order to drive home to switch back to the OEM wheels/street tyres. Ah well; you have to pay to play! lol
Wow, buckling the rims must have felt really bad from inside the car. Good news on the pads and shims making progress towards achieving the brakes you want though. I’m going to do the braided stainless hose, I know you don’t like them, but I’ve used them forever on bikes and in cars without issue, so I’m confident in them, hopefully the last piece of the puzzle.
Brands Hatch would need a lot of modernising as it feels very old and small now compared to the modern F1 tracks, I can’t see it ever returning, it’s an excellent track to drive and due to the noise issue track days here are few and far between.
Hello all. I bought my AMG GTR w 2,000 miles on the clock. Currently about 5,000 miles. The only track available after Hurricane Maria here in PR is a 1.4 mile track with really abrasive surface. Car was a pleasure to drive and I didn’t even scratch the limits of the car. I did cord the front tires which might be normal given the abrasive surface and the mileage. Could this be from bad alignment or just normal track wear? Right front tire Left front tire
Just jumping in and I think this is the most appropriate thread. As a current GT3 owner, it is a bit worrying reading about the problems the GTR seems to have on track. Have any of these issues been improved / sorted with the facelift model?
Just jumping in and I think this is the most appropriate thread. As a current GT3 owner, it is a bit worrying reading about the problems the GTR seems to have on track. Have any of these issues been improved / sorted with the facelift model?
I don't necessarily think there are a lot of issues. If you have steel brakes on GTR get cooling ducts and a proper alignment and the car is good to go.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
