Verdict on AMG GTR Breaks for track?
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Verdict on AMG GTR Brake setup for track?
I've read countless comments on how inadequent AMG GTR breaks are for track duty beyond just pads and break fluid. Yet I've seen some say that stock brakes are fine as well. So what is the final verdict?
Does AMG GTR need a brake upgrade for track? If so what's the most optimal proven setup? Tikt? Renntech or AMG PRO cooling parts?
Currently have 19 GT3 RS WP and trading in my 2015 GT3 for an AMG GTR steel brakes and would love to take GTR to a track, but I am bit worried about the brakes after reading so many negative comments. Thoughts?
Does AMG GTR need a brake upgrade for track? If so what's the most optimal proven setup? Tikt? Renntech or AMG PRO cooling parts?
Currently have 19 GT3 RS WP and trading in my 2015 GT3 for an AMG GTR steel brakes and would love to take GTR to a track, but I am bit worried about the brakes after reading so many negative comments. Thoughts?
Last edited by tmemore; Dec 4, 2019 at 06:28 AM.
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19 AMG GT R, 20 Porsche Cayenne
I am also curious to know if anything should be done to prepare the GT R for occasional track driving. I only do max 2-3 track days per year and probably nothing as hardcore as many of the folks here. Planning to take the GT R to its first track event this upcoming spring.
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As a former carriage driver it annoys me every time I see the term "shooting brake" for a fancy British station wagon. A "break" was a somewhat tall, flat wagon used to train ("break") horses to pulling wagons. After a time seats were put on it for bird shooting parties and the "shooting break" was created. But today people use "brake" because they think of what stops vehicles. So I'll give tmemore a break. Or is that brake?
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As a former carriage driver it annoys me every time I see the term "shooting brake" for a fancy British station wagon. A "break" was a somewhat tall, flat wagon used to train ("break") horses to pulling wagons. After a time seats were put on it for bird shooting parties and the "shooting break" was created. But today people use "brake" because they think of what stops vehicles. So I'll give tmemore a break. Or is that brake?
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I have a GTR with steel brakes and I can confirm that if you do not do anything to the brakes you will have a crappy track day, eventually. I went with the Tikt ducts and i use Cobalt Friction XR1 pads with castrol SRF. Brakes are awesome after the ducts. only real modification you need.
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I have a GTR with steel brakes and I can confirm that if you do not do anything to the brakes you will have a crappy track day, eventually. I went with the Tikt ducts and i use Cobalt Friction XR1 pads with castrol SRF. Brakes are awesome after the ducts. only real modification you need.
For those tracking the car with CCMs, replace the brake fluid with something really ‘sturdy’ such as Castrol SRF; Endless 650, etc. and install the Tikt ducts both front and rear; (especially important on the rear if you run with ESC ‘On’ or in ‘Sport’). Lastly, whilst you can use the OEM pads with the above as they work well, the Pagid RSC1 pads front/rear are a worthy upgrade.
Bish
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I have a GTR with steel brakes and I can confirm that if you do not do anything to the brakes you will have a crappy track day, eventually. I went with the Tikt ducts and i use Cobalt Friction XR1 pads with castrol SRF. Brakes are awesome after the ducts. only real modification you need.
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The pictures that are available online have a weird angle and make them seem like they are very low. I can confirm that they are not low enough to be scrapping anything (normal driving). I scrapped one of the ducts on a big curb at the track that I unintentionally went over at about 80-90mph....after I checked them I found out nothing happened to them they are rock solid!
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The pictures that are available online have a weird angle and make them seem like they are very low. I can confirm that they are not low enough to be scrapping anything (normal driving). I scrapped one of the ducts on a big curb at the track that I unintentionally went over at about 80-90mph....after I checked them I found out nothing happened to them they are rock solid!
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GTR
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I hear ya, but I thought of it this way... This is their first real designed for track car and all it needed was some brake cooling ducts.... not bad for a first outing
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So to summarize track brake upgrades for AMG GTR (steel brakes):
1) Front break cooling (MUST HAVE) -- rears optional??
2) Upgraded High temp brake fluid (MUST HAVE) (Castrol SRF or simialr)
3) Track brake pads (MUST HAVE) (Cobalt Friction XR1 or similar)
4) Stainless steel brake lines (optional)
1) Front break cooling (MUST HAVE) -- rears optional??
2) Upgraded High temp brake fluid (MUST HAVE) (Castrol SRF or simialr)
3) Track brake pads (MUST HAVE) (Cobalt Friction XR1 or similar)
4) Stainless steel brake lines (optional)
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From: Overland Park, KS
‘24 BMW iX M60
So to summarize track brake upgrades for AMG GTR (steel brakes):
1) Front break cooling (MUST HAVE) -- rears optional??
2) Upgraded High temp brake fluid (MUST HAVE) (Castrol SRF or simialr)
3) Track brake pads (MUST HAVE) (Cobalt Friction XR1 or similar)
4) Stainless steel brake lines (optional)
1) Front break cooling (MUST HAVE) -- rears optional??
2) Upgraded High temp brake fluid (MUST HAVE) (Castrol SRF or simialr)
3) Track brake pads (MUST HAVE) (Cobalt Friction XR1 or similar)
4) Stainless steel brake lines (optional)
Further, I’m not really sure that SS BRAKE lines add much if anything, and if installed poorly, could cause a major issue.
Bish
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I'm with Bish on the brake lines... very rarely have I seen the stock lines break/leak unless old and brittle. The chance that the aftermarket SS lines will break i think is higher than a stock line....
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GTR
So to summarize track brake upgrades for AMG GTR (steel brakes):
1) Front break cooling (MUST HAVE) -- rears optional??
2) Upgraded High temp brake fluid (MUST HAVE) (Castrol SRF or simialr)
3) Track brake pads (MUST HAVE) (Cobalt Friction XR1 or similar)
4) Stainless steel brake lines (optional)
1) Front break cooling (MUST HAVE) -- rears optional??
2) Upgraded High temp brake fluid (MUST HAVE) (Castrol SRF or simialr)
3) Track brake pads (MUST HAVE) (Cobalt Friction XR1 or similar)
4) Stainless steel brake lines (optional)
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I dont think Tikt offers rear cooling. So what are the options? Renntech? for front and rear?
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From: Overland Park, KS
‘24 BMW iX M60
I may well be wrong on this but TC generally does not rely on differential rear wheel braking, (and hence causing increased brake pad/rotor wear), rather it employs the ECU cutting power to limit wheel spin. Rather it is the use of ESC that can severely rapidly wear rear (and front brakes at times) brakes due to it using rear wheel braking in order to attempt to stabilize the car.
Hope I haven’t gotten this wrong.
Regardless the rear brakes are poorly ventilated and should be cooled better, hence my suggestion to get both front and rear brake ducts installed.
Bish
