Hello, havent been in a MBZ in some years, looking to possibly purchase an AMG GT as my daily driver (approx 500 miles a month is my commute, mainly home to work and back). Have a large SUV for the family & kids already.
looking at a 2017 GT S
1 owner
20 k miles
CPO until 10/2021 (how are these cars after warranty is up?)
Matte grey (how does this color hold up? What happens if you get rock chips?)
Original MSRP was just shy of $160k
Options:
AMG AERODYNAMIC PACKAGE
AMG DYNAMIC PLUS PACKAGE
AMG EXCLUSIVE INTERIOR PACKAGE
AMG CARBON FIBER TRIM
AMG ILLUMINATED DOOR SILL PANEL
BURMESTER SOUND
GLOSS CARBON FIBER REAR CROSSBAR
AMG NIGHT STYLING
FIXED PANO ROOF
19/20 FORGED WHEELS
I really hate Porsche interior, except for the new models starting 2019+. Your list is all over the place but from what it seems you might want the S63 since it has backseats.
I really hate Porsche interior, except for the new models starting 2019+. Your list is all over the place but from what it seems you might want the S63 since it has backseats.
Removed the “other cars in consideration” since no one is really answering questions about the AMG GT S, but rather random comments about the other cars
would like to learn as much as I can before checking out the car this weekend
So find out how dealer got the car. Maybe you can even talk to the prior owner who traded it in but if it’s sold at auction may be a little bit problematic.
So find out how dealer got the car. Maybe you can even talk to the prior owner who traded it in but if it’s sold at auction may be a little bit problematic.
3yr lease, then the usual process of mercedes financial selling at auction. Mercedes dealer purchased it, went through the CPO process, and now it’s for sale with 21 months of warranty on it
I think around $83k-$84k would be a good price for the car. It’s perhaps higher than average mileage for a sports car, but not high mileage by any means. Modern cars are meant to last 200k+ miles.
Depreciation is anyone’s guess. I don’t think they’ll continue depreciating at the massive rare they did initially, but I’d guess around 25% depreciation over the next 3 years. They’re just too special a car to go much below $50-60k USD, unlike say an SL or S class.
I think around $83k-$84k would be a good price for the car. It’s perhaps higher than average mileage for a sports car, but not high mileage by any means. Modern cars are meant to last 200k+ miles.
Depreciation is anyone’s guess. I don’t think they’ll continue depreciating at the massive rare they did initially, but I’d guess around 25% depreciation over the next 3 years. They’re just too special a car to go much below $50-60k USD, unlike say an SL or S class.
thanks for the feedback! I was thinking $80-82k, lets see what happens. Its pretty damn loaded compared to other units on the market, but also has double the miles as most others
thanks for the feedback! I was thinking $80-82k, lets see what happens. Its pretty damn loaded compared to other units on the market, but also has double the miles as most others
I doubt they’ll let it go for $80k, given the high initial MSRP. Maybe $82k. The 20k miles is “high mileage” for a sports car given that most are garage queens, but the wear in the extra mileage is usually negligible unless the brakes were worked hard. It’s like how a 5k mile Ferrari would be considered high mileage, even though it’s barely broken in and would probably be in better health if it was driven more than that. When I’m buying cars, I care much more condition than mileage (since I buy them to drive), though I know collectors of old cars like really low mileage numbers.
The brakes can last 100k miles if driven like a grandma or destroyed in a day if abused on track. I do suggest having them measured, as the rotors for these cars are expensive.
There is a B service for the car at 20k miles or two years, whichever comes first. It’s nothing major, just an oil change, brake flush, cabin filter change, drain cleaning, and miscellaneous simple checks dealers make money off of.
I doubt they’ll let it go for $80k, given the high initial MSRP. Maybe $82k. The 20k miles is “high mileage” for a sports car given that most are garage queens, but the wear in the extra mileage is usually negligible unless the brakes were worked hard. It’s like how a 5k mile Ferrari would be considered high mileage, even though it’s barely broken in and would probably be in better health if it was driven more than that. When I’m buying cars, I care much more condition than mileage (since I buy them to drive), though I know collectors of old cars like really low mileage numbers.
The brakes can last 100k miles if driven like a grandma or destroyed in a day if abused on track. I do suggest having them measured, as the rotors for these cars are expensive.
There is a B service for the car at 20k miles or two years, whichever comes first. It’s nothing major, just an oil change, brake flush, cabin filter change, drain cleaning, and miscellaneous simple checks dealers make money off of.
thanks for the info
spoke to a seller of a very similarly optioned GT S with under 9k miles... a MB dealer had offered him around $79k to buy it, CPO it, and resell it. Just using this as a guide, given the similar original msrp but half the miles
are you saying to measure the pads or the rotors? It does not have CCBs. I cant imagine pads costing much, but rotors (even non CCB) might be a few grand Im assuming. Im sure the health of the tires and brakes will be on the CPO check list report...but then again, those are usually done quickly and some tech just puts check marks next to everything saying its good, lol
spoke to a seller of a very similarly optioned GT S with under 9k miles... a MB dealer had offered him around $79k to buy it, CPO it, and resell it. Just using this as a guide, given the similar original msrp but half the miles
are you saying to measure the pads or the rotors? It does not have CCBs. I cant imagine pads costing much, but rotors (even non CCB) might be a few grand Im assuming. Im sure the health of the tires and brakes will be on the CPO check list report...but then again, those are usually done quickly and some tech just puts check marks next to everything saying its good, lol
Measure rotor thickness mainly (and make sure they haven’t developed a lip). A full brake job (all four rotors and pads) would cost around $5k+, as even the steel the rotors are very expensive; a fair bit more expensive than even Porsche GT3 rotors.
I'm in very a similar situation. Looked at a '17 GT non-S MB CPO (MB Corp owned) last night with 26K. It has far less performance options (no S, Aero, DPP or Hi-End HiFi) but tech options (Keyless-GO, Lane Pkg, Perf Exhaust, Panarama Roof, Std Bur . Priced at $74K from a $125K MSRP. So, numbers-wise, yours has a 46% drop and mine a 41% drop from original MSRP. Be interested to know what you do.
OP, your stealing that thing for mid-80’s, quit asking questions and run back there to buy it!
every owner and private seller Ive talked to admitted it’s a soft market for this car and it took them a long time to sell it (and their cars were also CPO). Not that Im waiting, just waiting til the weekend for time off from work
I'm in very a similar situation. Looked at a '17 GT non-S MB CPO (MB Corp owned) last night with 26K. It has far less performance options (no S, Aero, DPP or Hi-End HiFi) but tech options (Keyless-GO, Lane Pkg, Perf Exhaust, Panarama Roof, Std Bur . Priced at $74K from a $125K MSRP. So, numbers-wise, yours has a 46% drop and mine a 41% drop from original MSRP. Be interested to know what you do.
Measure rotor thickness mainly (and make sure they haven’t developed a lip). A full brake job (all four rotors and pads) would cost around $5k+, as even the steel the rotors are very expensive; a fair bit more expensive than even Porsche GT3 rotors.
should I ask them to measure it?
CPO guidelines okay the brakes at 50% or greater brake life
thoughts on a PPI on a CPO car?
Just found out that the car is lowered
i asked via what method (coils, sleeves, springs, etc) and they didnt really know..their reply was:
The car has been lowered with the proper equipment, clearance for the wheels and tires as well as proper alignment done. I dont know the branding, I just know that we will not certify a car at all unless the master technician looks at it and its legitimate equipment.
thoughts on this, as a CPO, would this suspension modification pass? Foreseeable problems down the line with warranty?
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