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I hate to start this again, but I have the ASR module, and it works, but when the car is completely cold and warming up after the first minute or so you can hear a valve close, the RPM decreases and it gets quieter. A lot quieter. And I can take the idle back up to 1200 and it is still much quieter than when it is stone cold.
In my car, the controller does not open the valve fully all the time. After the car warms up for a minute, it is quieter.
I was under the impression that the module opened the valve fully, all the time. I don't believe that is the case. The car is louder on start up, and stays in the loud exhaust mode all the time, but there is still a partially closed valve.
Would someone else with the ASR check my work here? Do a cold start and note the exhaust volume while the car is fast idling. Then wait for the idle to slow, take it back up to the same RPM as the cold idle and see if it is as loud as it was when cold.
Newbie comment here. I always have the car on individual setting with the valves open. Whenever I start it that's the setting I immediately get. Therefore the exhaust light always comes on and I get the sound I want.
I'm actually now questioning if this is abnormal...??
I hate to start this again, but I have the ASR module, and it works, but when the car is completely cold and warming up after the first minute or so you can hear a valve close, the RPM decreases and it gets quieter. A lot quieter. And I can take the idle back up to 1200 and it is still much quieter than when it is stone cold.
In my car, the controller does not open the valve fully all the time. After the car warms up for a minute, it is quieter.
I was under the impression that the module opened the valve fully, all the time. I don't believe that is the case. The car is louder on start up, and stays in the loud exhaust mode all the time, but there is still a partially closed valve.
Would someone else with the ASR check my work here? Do a cold start and note the exhaust volume while the car is fast idling. Then wait for the idle to slow, take it back up to the same RPM as the cold idle and see if it is as loud as it was when cold.
Thanks!
Are you referring to the sound decrease when the car settles the RPMs down after the initial warmup period? If not, then it could be that you need to set it to startup from last setting, which I believe is done by pressing one of the remote buttons 5 times.
For reference, from the ASR website:
Start mode
The start mode describes in which mode the device should start after switching on the ignition. In the standard configuration, the device saves the last mode set and restores it when the vehicle is started. If you want a certain mode when starting, regardless of how you have parked your vehicle, this can be programmed.
The start mode can be freely programmed as required
Last state: Press the button for the "Sport mode" 5 times within 5 seconds.
Other modes: Press the button for the mode you want to teach in as the start mode for about 10 seconds.
The flaps open and close 5 times to confirm the successful programming of the start mode.
Originally Posted by Kobayashemaru
Newbie comment here. I always have the car on individual setting with the valves open. Whenever I start it that's the setting I immediately get. Therefore the exhaust light always comes on and I get the sound I want.
I'm actually now questioning if this is abnormal...??
Someone in here mentioned that at some point, and I think it was narrowed down to being a setting on the UK cars.
Are you referring to the sound decrease when the car settles the RPMs down after the initial warmup period? If not, then it could be that you need to set it to startup from last setting, which I believe is done by pressing one of the remote buttons 5 times.
For reference, from the ASR website:
Start mode
The start mode describes in which mode the device should start after switching on the ignition. In the standard configuration, the device saves the last mode set and restores it when the vehicle is started. If you want a certain mode when starting, regardless of how you have parked your vehicle, this can be programmed.
The start mode can be freely programmed as required
Last state: Press the button for the "Sport mode" 5 times within 5 seconds.
Other modes: Press the button for the mode you want to teach in as the start mode for about 10 seconds.
The flaps open and close 5 times to confirm the successful programming of the start mode.
Here's what I'm talking about. Cold start. At :41 you can clearly hear a valve closing, and at :43 you can hear the RPM dropping. I turned the car off yesterday with the valve control set open. At the end of the vid I check the valve control a couple times to be sure it was in the open position.
I believe there are three valve settings on my car, and the controller only overrides the quietest setting. I think there is a wide open setting that happens on a cold start and the valve is never open that far when warm.
All this is academic, except for the idea that the controller opens the valve fully and leaves it open all the time. At least with my controller on my car, that does not seem to be the case.
My car sounds the same on a cold start with the ASR module. Definitely more aggressive and then calms down a bit but still louder than stock.
I think what you are hearing is more a function of the engine programming/ignition/timing to heat the cats up as quickly as possible for emissions and not the exhaust valve changing positions. I’m sure as the engine changes the timing/ignition it makes the engine sound different through the exhaust.
If there was some hidden setting in the ASR module that made it partially close the valves after the initial cold start then would expect on a warm start it would sound more aggressive for that same time period before quieting down. On my car, once the engine is warm it does not change sounds after starting. The module has no way of knowing if the engine is cold or hot so it doesn’t make sense to me that it could change the flap position and therefore exhaust sound based on engine temp.
A little clip on cold starts that just came up interestingly enough
Following the advice on this forum I ordered and have taken delivery of the AP exhaust valve management thingy to fit to my brand new (1 day old) AMG GTC Roadster. Is anyone able to talk me through the install process with some pics of what I should be doing? AP will be sending these but I'm to impatient to wait! 🥸
Incidentally, I'm a complete novice. Never having done any car maintenance or mods myself.
Cheers for any help.
Mel
QUOTE=Orcbolg;7976376]Yeah, I was doing the same, but in a lot of instances it would start up far too quiet for my taste, and sometimes embarrassingly so when at car shows with a lot of cameras on you. Cold start is often glorious, and then after sitting at a meet/show for an hour or two, it always starts up super quiet. Going to go the EVM route as well to bypass this.
Also seen this option, that doesn't require an external remote.
Here's what I'm talking about. Cold start. At :41 you can clearly hear a valve closing, and at :43 you can hear the RPM dropping. I turned the car off yesterday with the valve control set open. At the end of the vid I check the valve control a couple times to be sure it was in the open position.
I believe there are three valve settings on my car, and the controller only overrides the quietest setting. I think there is a wide open setting that happens on a cold start and the valve is never open that far when warm.
All this is academic, except for the idea that the controller opens the valve fully and leaves it open all the time. At least with my controller on my car, that does not seem to be the case.
I could very easily be wrong. :-)
Sorry to bring this back up again, but I think I had a similar experience to you. I just installed the Renntech unit (first unit I got was defective, they sent another), which I believe is identical to the ASR module. The sound at start up and idle is the exact same as if I had just pushed the factory exhaust button. No difference at all. I'm wondering is it's just my specific car or if something is wrong. I uninstalled it completely and used the factory exhaust button just to make sure, and it's exactly the same sound. So for me, basically the unit just gives the ability to keep the exhaust button on at all times. No difference in sound whether idle or under load when compared to the factory exhaust button.
I am considering ordering one of the Renntech EVM's below. Just wanted to check with you guys if there is a better/different option out there for being able to fix the exhaust valves open on demand (for cold starts for example).
As gimmicky as it is, the "emotion" start on the facelift cars is pretty cool TBH.
ok I have a huge problem with my GTR and with the help of the dealership, it’s now established that it is “broken as intended”
it started with PE: ON
i would hear a high pitched rattling like ting ting ting when the flaps were “””open””” and I cannot emphasize the number of quotes.
the “dealership” told me that it was the turbos making that sound.
sigh
i go back and show them that it turns on and off when I turn the performance exhaust on and off. So unless that valve controls the “turbos” too, there’s something wrong with that theory.
they go check and tell me that due to european regulations now including noise emissions, when you turn the PE on, it will only open partially until high rpm + high throttle at which point it will open up for a brief period.
any time after that, you’ll get the rattling of a partially open valves.
this is dumb. I’d rather have them fully open.
Question: can I just disconnect the valve cables during an emotion start where I know the valves are fully open? Or are they spring loaded to return closed? I don’t think that’s the case or the renntech/asr module will be using electricity to keep the valves open when the car is off.
also, in the trunk of the GTR, the fuses are on the left side. Does anyone know which cables to pull? I can test it tonight.
My apologies for it taking me so long to respond, but you need to remove that foam cover to access the fuse panel. There are three 10mm bolts that you need to remove, two bolts on the bottom of it, and one at the top that will require a 5"+ extension. There is a bolt that can be used for the ground near the speaker, so you will need to pull back the carpet that the speaker cover is attached to, but I can't remember off the top of my head what was required to do that.
Here are the instructions that were sent to me, that I've translated from German:
My apologies for it taking me so long to respond, but you need to remove that foam cover to access the fuse panel. There are three 10mm bolts that you need to remove, two bolts on the bottom of it, and one at the top that will require a 5"+ extension. There is a bolt that can be used for the ground near the speaker, so you will need to pull back the carpet that the speaker cover is attached to, but I can't remember off the top of my head what was required to do that.
Here are the instructions that were sent to me, that I've translated from German:
thank you very much for the information!
I will go get the appropriate tools for the job. I am looking to just disconnect the valves while they are in the fully open position during an emotion start so I will not need to use the ground bolt.
I will go get the appropriate tools for the job. I am looking to just disconnect the valves while they are in the fully open position during an emotion start so I will not need to use the ground bolt.
hopefully this doesn’t throw a code…
Hahah well that was anticlimactic
it cut off the fuel. Prevented me from starting it.
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