Kaiba

Hi guys

As title says , what would be your first mods on a 20 GT R Pro ? ( Power , handling , tracking wise , no need for interior/exterior upgrades )

Incoming car is a 2019 production but has all the '20 items ( flat touchpad for exemple ) , weird. I assume then it will have OPF First thing to remove ? Any recommandations ?

Many thanks

mbjj57

evm to open the exhaust , much needed on 2020 model...

hyperion667

Wheels!

canucklehead

All PROs are 2020 models.
If your intentions are for tracking here is what I have done, and would like to do in order.

1. Track alignment
2. Dedicated set of track rims
3. Better track tires: CUP2 ZPs or Slicks. I am going to try Nankang next...
4. Brake ducts
5. SS brake lines
6. Upgrade to a better brake fluid
7. Solid front uniball bushings
8. Cage, Race Seats & Harness
9. EVM (Also replaced the fender louvres at this time with CF)
10. Pagid brake pads.

Next to do
10. Convert to steel rotors.
11. Weight reduction
12. Power bump & more aero.

Probably forgetting something. That is my list so far.

Kaiba

Funny because my future car was registered late 2019. ( i'm in EU ) , also I see some cars on internet with old rotary knob instead of the flat trackpad !

Indeed I will track the car so first thing is alignment. Did you have to setup compression and rebound ? Did not find the "stock" settings to begin with........

Already sent a mail to TikT for the brake ducts , I see this will be very important !

In EU all the Pro have rollcage , racing seats & harness

For the steel rotors , you are not satisfied with CC brakes ? Or is it re. value of the CC rotors ?
I've owned multiple Porsche and always changed to steel and keeping the CC for resale. But I was under the impression the CC on this car was on point and useable for multiple trackdays a year

jn66

I echo everything my brother Canuck said. I’ve done most as well.

Question - whose steel brake lines did you use?

canucklehead

I went with RennTech. They were cheaper than TIKT.

jn66

Thank you!

I finished the seat and cage install Will post pictures later today!

canucklehead

I received my PRO July of 2019 but it is still considered a 2020 model. I also specifically ordered my car with the rotary knob and not the touch pad.
I have not made any changes to the suspension yet. There is a personal performance goal I have set before I start messing with that.
At my local track I want to hit a 1:25 before I start playing with the suspension. Last week I did a 1:26 on 5 day old track tires and grip was horrible. So I think I am almost there.
The fastest guys in my advanced run group (slightly modified GT3 RS's) are running 1:24s.
Also the format of our current track does not lend well to test and tune. Every one to two weeks then, we have 3 run groups at events. I just want to go out and blast passes.
Next year, with my private membership to a new track that is almost finished; I can spend all day working on set up if I want to. I can go on and off track any time and as many times as I want.

Going with steel rotors due to running costs.
I will know more in a few months. I am just about to start looking in AP racing for a solution.
I have tracked the car now for 2.5 seasons and I am on my 3rd set of pads. I think that probably end of next year, rotors would be coming up for replacement if I stay on course.
Last week I chipped a rotor at the track. Car was in for service and I had the pads replaced at that time. I want to say that the mechanic probably hit the rotor with the rim or something at that time as the first run after installing the new pads and the rotor chips. Anyways, I have done some light pricing and it looks like a replacement rotor is about $3200 US.
Also now that I have a membership to a private track, I am expecting my number of track days to to jump up substantially. Going from 15-odd days to 35 to 40+. I need to get running costs way,way down. Thinking about picking up a second cheap track car now.

canucklehead

That is awesome.

Wolfman

Just FYI. Cars in Europe aren't future dated models like in the US/CA (mid-year or for launches). When built in 2019, that is what they are. That's why you have 2014 GTS models there...

user33

How are you measuring the wear on your CCB rotors? I purchased the MBZ part -- a $30 piece of clear plastic with a grid of squares printed on it! -- and followed the WIS procedure using the wear-indicator circles and came to the conclusion that their process is:
- _way_ too time consuming
- _way_ too open to interpretation (what exactly constitutes light and dark fibers)
- likely doesn't account for brakes that are "plated"/coated after being properly burnished/bed-in
... so their process is (IMO) effectively useless due to cost and potential inaccuracy -- and, having a dealer do this would be prohibitively expensive due to the amount of time would take.

The next alternative is removing, cleaning and weighing the rotors ... but that is also fraught with problems due to the level of accuracy required, not to mention the work-time/cost involved.

All that and the fact that the most definitive way to measure CCB rotor wear/life -- so the most safe! -- is using the Proceq tool, I'm considering getting a Proceq tool since no-one seems to have one. I feel it's imperative (for safety reasons) that we all develop a proper understanding of how the CCB rotors wear with track use and TiKT brake-cooling ducts. AFAIK, the only resonable way to do this is by gathering data after each track day using the Proceq tool.

OTOH, if it ends up that the CCB rotors don't wear well with on-track use, then I'd have been better off spending the money to switch to iron rotors ... I'm guessing the Proceq tool will cost about $8K USD.

Yeah, my dealer's (superb) service people have told me that they see very few CCBs so they're not very familiar with them and can't justify the cost of the Proceq tool. I will do everything I can to ensure that they never remove the wheels from my car and, if they have to, will be strongly reminded about hitting/chipping the CCB rotors (which I will inspect before driving away ... but even that may not be enough, as you point out). When I remove the wheels, I raise the car and use a shop stool with a pneumatic seat-height adjustment to support the wheel on a pair of extended "sissy bolts" so I can easily drag the wheel/stool outwards without hitting the rotors (especially critical with the minimal clearance on the front wheels):

canucklehead

Last time I checked the rotor wear was at the dealership.
They did mention that they had to buy some tool or bring some tool in as I recall them saying they had not previously measured CCB wear prior me asking for a measurement.

user33

I would assume that any dealer using the Carboteq tool would report the results in terms of the numbers ... and, if you're paying for the checkup, you definitely should get all the data, much like they report remaining brake-pad thickness.

If your dealer is using the Carboteq tool, it'd be _really_ worthwhile to have a data-point that included:
- some measure of the track time/laps/mileage/etc. you'd put on the rotors
- the "factory new" Carboteq number
- the "after use" Carboteq number
Ideally one would also have the "worn out" number, but it appears that if we used "new - 20" we'd be safe (mine range from 23 to 27).

With enough data-points, we could develop a "rule of thumb" for predicting CCB rotor wear. BTW, I'd be interested to know how much you were charged for measuring the wear on the CCB rotors.