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Fixing the Center Console Glove Box Door on the GTx
This topic was started in another thread. "MOST" of us experience difficulty opening the glove box door in the center console on the GT(x). I personally find it quite annoying (especially while driving) pushing the button, then digging with my fingers enough to get the door finally moving so it opens. I did some initial exploring of the glove box hinge assembly and I documented those findings in this thread, post #18. https://mbworld.org/forums/coupe-roa...ml#post8438882
I won't belabor that part. I have a very simply fix (improvement) that anyone should be able to accomplish with minimal effort or cost. With the fix I describe below, now, when I push the door button, the door will rise on its own and it hits the palm of my hand. Then, the factory springs take over at that point...and no more fiddling with it.
NOTE: This simple fix is done with the glove box insitu. In the pics below I used a second box that was not in a car. Everything described below is done with the glove box in place. The whole project, start to finish, should take no longer than about 30 mins.
This is an international Ebay purchase, about $12 USD for 12 pins including shipping. They come from Cypress but higher quality with a metal plunger pin instead of plastic and the collar and body are black plastic:
You will only use 2 of these (with plenty of spares).
STEP 1:
Open the console door and locate the two rubber bump stops at the front of the glove box:
STEP 2:
Using needle nose pliers, work the tips of the pliers under the heads of the bumpers, lift and remove them. These won't be needed again.
STEP 3:
USING THE WHITE PINS From Amazon: Drill out the two holes where the bump stops were. The best drill size is 6mm. The spring pins mic out at 0.240", so a 1/4" drill will make a hole a little too large. You want the spring pins to seat into the drilled holes with a comfortable fit - NOT a press fit and NOT a sloppy fit. I used a little different route when I fit these first pins. I chose a Number drill (#1) which mics out to 0.228", then I used a small round file to file in the 0.012" so I had the exact fit I wanted.
NOTE: If the hole is too small, yet you can force seat the spring pin it might possibly bind the spring. The fit cannot be too tight.
USING THE BLACK PINS From Ebay: These pins have a slightly larger body diameter. They mic out at 0.278". Best drill here is a 7mm, but you can use a 17/64" drill, or 1/4" drill too, then using a small rattail file, file in the fit (what I did). You want the same fit here, a nice comfort fit, snug, NOT press fit or loose fit.
STEP 4: THIS IS AN OPTIONAL STEP - gluing is unnecessary if you have a snug fit. However, if you ended up with a loose fit, then add this step:
After both holes are drilled, use a silicone adhesive (CLEAR) material (starts out white but dries clear), and place a very small amount of adhesive behind the head of the spring pin in two places 180* apart; or 3 places 120* apart. Then place the pins in the holes. Seat the pins. If any adhesive shows over the head, use a sponge and water to remove. Once glued, it is a good practice to close and latch the door, give it several hours for the adhesive to dry.
That is all to the assembly. The door will now perform differently. As I described above, push the button and expect the door will now be looking for your palm. Once it is opened it is now easy to slip your fingers under the lid, but you'll also feel the factory springs really working at this point. It is more a matter of just getting your hand out of the way and letting the door open on its own.
Two more quick pics showing what the pins look like when they're compressed with the door closed; and, what the pins look like on the underside (in case anyone is concerned about clearances).
Pins compressed with door closed:
Pins shown on the underside of the box:
If a pin stops working and needs to be replaced, it should come out easily with a pair of needle nose pliers even if glued in, and if you purchased the bag of 10/12, you'll have replacements for a long time.
I want to change subjects for a moment and talk about the center console in the GT(x). I've had my entire console out from the front center air vents all the way back to the back of the seats. There is a specific order of disassembly that is important or it will be easy to break things. If anyone finds themselves with this task, don't hesitate to ping me and I'll run through the steps of what comes off first, second, etc.
Last edited by Acta_Non_Verba; 11-07-2021 at 08:18 AM.
"I want to change subjects for a moment and talk about the center console in the GT(x). I've had my entire console out from the front center air vents all the way back to the back of the seats. There is a specific order of disassembly that is important or it will be easy to break things. If anyone finds themselves with this task, don't hesitate to ping me and I'll run through the steps of what comes off first, second, etc."
Like you I have had my entire console out, just send me a copy of your steps which I like to compare to mine. I'm still chasing a small rattle coming from the console area however I think is coming from under need the dash grill area where the speakers live. I did have it out when I did my radar install and will check back under there as well.
"I want to change subjects for a moment and talk about the center console in the GT(x). I've had my entire console out from the front center air vents all the way back to the back of the seats. There is a specific order of disassembly that is important or it will be easy to break things. If anyone finds themselves with this task, don't hesitate to ping me and I'll run through the steps of what comes off first, second, etc."
Like you I have had my entire console out, just send me a copy of your steps which I like to compare to mine. I'm still chasing a small rattle coming from the console area however I think is coming from under need the dash grill area where the speakers live. I did have it out when I did my radar install and will check back under there as well.
Thanks for sharing your excellent work.
Best H
Hi Hendrik,
I'll post it so anyone looking for it can find it.
I bring this to the forefront BC I believe that any disassembly to the center console, one would intuitively start by trying to remove the leather side curtains that run the length of the console. THAT would be the mistake as several of the "fixing points" of these side curtains get hard trapped in by the upper console assembly. So, if the upper console assembly is not removed first, then the tabs on the side curtains will get broken.
The absolute first step in removing any center console components starts with a key trim piece found in the front of the glove box.
So, open the door and find this small trim piece at the front. Start by prying one end, then the trim piece rotates out.
Once this trim piece is out, two T9 torx screws will be exposed. Remove these two screws as they hold the upper console (with the shifter and eight buttons, etc.) in place.
This pic shows where the two screws would be but in the pic the screws are already removed.
Once these two screws are removed, the entire upper assembly only clips in place at the front with the "wedge" spring clips. Just lift the back a little and pull the entire upper assembly backwards away from the dash.
Now everything will be intuitive at this point. The side skirts will just pull away, all on wedge spring clips.
The only other mounting hardware that requires a wrench are the two bolts holding the front of the glove box in place, they use a 10mm socket.
Bottom line, you can remove the entire center console with a T9 torx and a 10mm socket. Everything else just snaps together.
An alternate approach to get black spring-pins would be to "paint" them using a permanent marker.
I often do this for screw/bolt heads and more. I find that the cheap dollar-store markers tend to work the best, likely because their flow is not as regulated as higher-quality markers.
For the larger markers (and opened tubes of caulking, etc.) I always seal the cap/top using electrical tape. Electrical tape is cheap (when purchased in 10-packs), can be stretched to add tension, is quite durable and sticks quite well (and, for cap sealing, can often be re-used ... satisfies the Scottish blood in me).
An alternate approach to get black spring-pins would be to "paint" them using a permanent marker.
I often do this for screw/bolt heads and more. I find that the cheap dollar-store markers tend to work the best, likely because their flow is not as regulated as higher-quality markers.
For the larger markers (and opened tubes of caulking, etc.) I always seal the cap/top using electrical tape. Electrical tape is cheap (when purchased in 10-packs), can be stretched to add tension, is quite durable and sticks quite well (and, for cap sealing, can often be re-used ... satisfies the Scottish blood in me).
I like it! Just permanent markered mine unless or until I can find a substitute. Worked well!
I like these pins very much, but they might not be spring pins, but dampers instead as User and 4wheelz say below. If they are dampers, they will not work in this application, unfortunately as they look very well constructed.
Last edited by Acta_Non_Verba; 10-21-2021 at 04:46 PM.
How about we do a group order through you? We pay you upfront via PayPal for product and shipping and ship them to one of us and we handle it state side.
How about we do a group order through you? We pay you upfront via PayPal for product and shipping and ship them to one of us and we handle it state side.
Great idea, but looks now like these are not spring pins after all. I did an edit on this original post to keep the thread cleaner.
All the Best!
EDIT: Spent about an hour on AliExpress last night. It offered a few more choices, none like the ones Stenzel found, and I'd be concerned these pins would be stuck on a "Sea of Boats" floating around Long Beach dock, probably for the rest of my remaining years.
Last edited by Acta_Non_Verba; 10-21-2021 at 04:44 PM.
Hi all, before you order these, please double check - I think these are not spring loaded to push, I think they are dampers to allow soft close of doors/drawers meaning they provide slight resistance instead. Not sure they would push upward to provide tension to nudge the door? May want to get a set local and test first - they do look like good quality hardware though.
A caution ... normally a damper is a mechanism that dampens/slows the final closing gap. I.E., they're normally a viscous/pneumatic resistance mechanism and do not exert a spring-type/outwards force. Using the DeepL translator yields:
-----
... Its pneumatic design allows silent and smooth closing of furniture doors.
...
Effectively brakes all doors and flaps ...
-----
So, unfortunately, it appears that it does not have the desired outward-pushing spring action we want. #:-(
[looks like 4wheelz 'n I were busy typing at the same time]
User and 4wheelz, you guys might be right. It must be a pure spring pin and not a damper as the damper works like a shock absorber. I looked at Stenzel's Ebay post again and these do look like dampers. The translation is challenging me.
For anyone wanting to try this, the ones I show in the first post do work. I now have them installed in two glove boxes.
I am also going to evaluate another spring pin. It's coming from overseas so I won't see it until Nov, but it appears to be a nice unit. These are all chump change in terms of cost and if you do the fix, these can be changed out anytime and done with different ones. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12479821184...53.m2749.l2649
Hi all, before you order these, please double check - I think these are not spring loaded to push, I think they are dampers to allow soft close of doors/drawers meaning they provide slight resistance instead. Not sure they would push upward to provide tension to nudge the door? May want to get a set local and test first - they do look like good quality hardware though.
Hi,
I got the dampers.
Acta / 4 wheelz are absolutely correct. There are dampers.
The resistance depends on the speed. They have no spring. Not suitable for "sticking" flaps.
How about we do a group order through you? We pay you upfront via PayPal for product and shipping and ship them to one of us and we handle it state side.
Hi Hendrik,
That was done with the pins, but if a bulk order from Germany is necessary, I'll be happy to help.
Especially when it comes to you or Acta.
This also applies to emergencies. If a part is not available in the USA.
In Germany, the selection of new parts (mostly less than 300 miles) is currently still large.
Often for 1/4 - 1/2 price.
I just bought (in my opinion, the only weak point of the GT. Especially with tuning) a complete GTR replacement gearbox with less than 60 miles.
With shipping, I paid the equivalent of about 5250.- USD. That is approx. 25% of the new price.
And then you must give back your defective gearbox.
I don't know if I need it. but like a old mechanic rule means:
Having a gearbox is better, than needing a gearbox. :-) :-)
Kind regards
Stenzel
Edit: Like new spare transmission:
Last edited by Stenzel-Germany; 10-22-2021 at 03:47 PM.
That was done with the pins, but if a bulk order from Germany is necessary, I'll be happy to help.
Especially when it comes to you or Acta.
This also applies to emergencies. If a part is not available in the USA.
In Germany, the selection of new parts (mostly less than 300 miles) is currently still large.
Often for 1/4 - 1/2 price.
I just bought (in my opinion, the only weak point of the GT. Especially with tuning) a complete GTR replacement gearbox with less than 60 miles.
With shipping, I paid the equivalent of about 5250.- USD. That is approx. 25% of the new price.
And then you must give back your defective gearbox.
I don't know if I need it. but like a old mechanic rule means:
Having a gearbox is better, than needing a gearbox. :-) :-)
Kind regards
Stenzel
I appreciate the knowledge and expertise of both Stenzel and Hendrik. They make this forum more valuable. This is one of the best forums in which I participate, whether it is technical expertise or valuable knowledge of MB and insight into the company and what directions it is taking.
Forums can be difficult places to be given the "social media" nature of them, but this site is one of the friendliest most amicable ones I've seen...very refreshing and a pleasure to participate here.
Hi Hendrik,
I'll be happy to help.
Especially when it comes to you or Acta.
This also applies to emergencies. If a part is not available in the USA.
In Germany, the selection of new parts (mostly less than 300 miles) is currently still large.
Often for 1/4 - 1/2 price.
Having a gearbox is better, than needing a gearbox. :-) :-)
Kind regards
Stenzel
I appreciate your offer to help when needed - it is just good to know that if needed we can help each other out.
I must say that I was pleasantly surprised that a special MB tool (pulling the shaft out of the cam gears sprockets) that I needed in order to pull the cams on an SL63 was delivered to me by my local MB dealer in one day coming from Germany (I guess I'm a good customer and I was told it was the last one in stock in Germany).
Now that with the help of all you (AMG-GT-XX) guys over the past few month my GTS is running great. I now have some time to catch up with projects that where sitting in the waiting room while getting the GTS ready. See > https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...-headbolt.html
For the past 12 years I have been participating in an annual (first weekend in November) GTC of Porsche 928 owners 40-50 cars (I used to drive a 1994 928 GTS for 15 years) and this year I'm taking the AMG GTS for them to feast there eyes. I'll plan to take some pictures of the AMG GTS in shark infested country!
Also Stenzel just so you know in 2019 my last Porsche 928 motor (21k miles) that I rescued/repaired (from a salvaged USA car) I sold to a guy in Bremen who is now have happy in roaming the Autobahn again in his 928.
You just never know do you?
Best to all and enjoy your cars!
Last edited by Hendrik Koster; 10-24-2021 at 05:55 AM.
I appreciate your offer to help when needed - it is just good to know that if needed we can help each other out.
I must say that I was pleasantly surprised that a special MB tool (pulling the shaft out of the cam gears sprockets) that I needed in order to pull the cams on an SL63 was delivered to me by my local MB dealer in one day coming from Germany (I guess I'm a good customer and I was told it was the last one in stock in Germany).
Now that with the help of all you (AMG-GT-XX) guys over the past few month my GTS is running great. I now have some time to catch up with projects that where sitting in the waiting room while getting the GTS ready. See > https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...-headbolt.html
For the past 12 years I have been participating in an annual (first weekend in November) GTC of Porsche 928 owners 40-50 cars (I used to drive a 1994 928 GTS for 15 years) and this year I'm taking the AMG GTS for them to feast there eyes. I'll plan to take some pictures of the AMG GTS in shark infested country!
Also Stenzel just so you know in 2019 my last Porsche 928 motor (21k miles) that I rescued/repaired (from a salvaged USA car) I sold to a guy in Bremen who is now have happy in roaming the Autobahn again in his 928.
You just never know do you?
Best to all and enjoy your cars!
Hi Hendrik,
If I can do something. Gladly. Send you my email address via PM. Goes faster.
Broken head screws on the M156 are a known problem. (Korission) There were even recalls from MB.
There is an improved head bolt from MB.
Part number head bolt: A156 016 07 59 (old: A156 001 06 59) You need 10 pieces per head.
There is also a modified left head gasket:
Part number left head gasket: A156 016 04 20 (old: A156 001 04 20)
Part number right head gasket: A156 016 00 20
Edit: Timing chains with slide rails, and camshaft timing adjusters were also a weak points.
Only know one owner of with Porsche 928 personally. This one has little relation to it, he changes vehicles like underpants.
I don't even know another GT driver personally. But it is more due to the clientele. There is no DIY scene here that I know of.
More like: I get everything done for money. Especially since for many it borders on blasphemy to change / convert / improve a newer Mercedes.
Except an MB workshop does it, but then only with original MB parts.
That's why it's a pleasure for me, to exchange ideas here.
I too do something completely different. Always have a small 1 man shop and have always repaired and rebuilt vehicles.
After Harley-Davidson (only 42-84) Buell, Hot-Rods, I now mostly take care of Chrysler Crossfire. (Technically a MB SLK 320 R 170)
Especially the SRT 6 Coupé (technically a MB SLK 32 AMG) look after and collect.
There are only 65 left in Germany. MB generation 2003-2007 similar to your other Mercedes.
MB shops doesn't make these cars. There is now a third-party product. (Daimler-Chrysler) Current Chrysler shops (previously mostly FIAT shops) don't know the vehicles, no documentation, no tools.
From maintenance / repairs to conversions and SRT6 engine overhauls, now do everything, exept metal sheet and paint.
I now have "customers" from all over Germany. And lots of spare parts. :-)
Just like the 2-seater coupé shape. That's how I automatically got the GT. Especially since I am fascinated by the whole construction of the GT (front middle engine, transaxle, dry sump, axles). Find the GT almost a perfect car.
My absolute dream:
based on today's technology, a 60 degree V12. A 60 degree V12 is for me the premier class of engine construction.
Perfect mass balance and a exaust sound to kneel down.
We all appear to be "birds of a feather" as the saying goes.
I have been into project cars/bikes for most of my life. I've built engines from the ground up for drag/street racing, although I grew up and became smart, so no more street.
Last edited by Acta_Non_Verba; 07-30-2022 at 05:19 PM.
One final post here - I received another set of spring pins and these are better than the first set I tested. They're constructed better, they use a metal push pin, all in all, better constructed and the collars that show are black.
10-18-2021, 07:04 PM
