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I have a 2019 AMG GTR and my brake pad warning light just came on at 30k miles. Does anyone have the part number for the front / rear brake pads for CCR?
Does anyone recommend any aftermarket pads as being better?
My first time replacing pads on a CCR car, does it need anything else replaced, or is it just like a normal car?
1: Make sure it isn’t just a wear sensor that has gone bad before you invest in a full set of pads. Replace the wear sensors regardless;
2: The OEM pads are good pads if you aren’t going to track the car. They last a decent amount of time and don’t fade on the street, plus are pretty good on the track, although if you start to push it you will need brake ducts for increased cooling, although that applies to any pad once you start to lower your track times.
A great mild upgraded pad is the Pagid RSC1. Don’t squeal on the street when broken in; are rotor friendly and are excellent on a road course even if you’re a heavy braker; highly recommended;
3: front pads are easy to replace, but for the rears you need to follow the sequence found in the manual, (iirc) to release the parking brake feature so the rear pads will release from the rotor so they can be replaced. It is done from the DIC btw;
4: Motul RBF660 is a very good brake fluid. My next high performance brake fluid to try is the AP Racing R4 which currently has the highest dry boiling point out there iirc.
Does anyone have a diagram of the min / max level of the brake fluid reservoir?
i am trying to add brake fluid and can't tell where the levels should be!
How far up the neck is the max level?
Hi,
Never top up the brake fluid. Just shouldn't fall below the minimum. (But then discs and pads should be at the end.)
When changing the brake fluid, do not fill it higher than the previous level.
Do the maximum fill level only with brand new discs and pads.
This is how the system is designed. If you refill and at some point push back the brake pistons (e.g. changing the pads), there is too much brake fluid in the reservoir.
An excess quantity does not bring any advantage either, since only dead volume. Without effect.
Best regards
Stenzel
Last edited by Stenzel-Germany; 01-17-2023 at 09:26 PM.
Never top up the brake fluid. Just shouldn't fall below the minimum. (But then discs and pads should be at the end.)
When changing the brake fluid, do not fill it higher than the previous level.
Do the maximum fill level only with brand new discs and pads.
This is how the system is designed. If you refill and at some point push back the brake pistons (e.g. changing the pads), there is too much brake fluid in the reservoir.
An excess quantity does not bring any advantage either, since only dead volume. Without effect.
Best regards
Stenzel
Stenzel, is not the ‘dead space’ above the ‘Max’ line in the brake fluid reservoir designed to account for a person pushing back the pistons and installing new pads but without flushing the fluid?
I do agree that not filling above the Max line is correct, and any fluid above the line after pad replacement should be removed, but perhaps after the car has been started and the brakes used a couple of time.
Of course there is still some free volume above the max. mark.
This is also needed to pick up the liquid when the pistons are fully pushed back.
But if you already have more wear on the pads / brake discs and top up to the maximum, then this volume will be added and there may not be enough space the next time you push the pistons back.
I just wanted to make it clear that you don't routinely top up the brake fluid to the maximum during maintenance. Especially since it would be pointless or without any advantage. (This brake fluid is not in use / circulated)
When changing the brake fluid without changing the pads/discs, then adopt the previously existing fluid level. (I mark myself in advance with tape)
When replacing pads / brake discs / brake fluid (everything new) then fill to the maximum.
When using a common pressure system, the brake pads are all in contact. You can adjust the liquid level immediately. "Braking in" doesn't change anything here either.
Addition:
Remove escaping / spilled brake fluid immediately. Is very aggressive, especially to paint.
On my BMW s1000rr motorcycle the F/R brakes are linked and you need to use a dongle to pulse the bleed system between the F & R brakes.
Can a non-MB dealer do the brakes?
Do you guys recommend skimming the CCR, i was surprised this was an option!
Any competent Indy shop can do the brakes on the GTR; there’s no magic there although find and print out the instructions to allow the rear brake pads to disengage from the rotors in ‘Service mode’ would be helpful.
The OEM CCMs cannot be skimmed that I’m aware of. In fact the weight of the rotor is vital to its ability to dissipate heat, so don’t do it! Certain CCBs can be refurbished, the most well known being Surface Transform brakes iirc, but I’m not sure if they are produced for the GT cars.
Never top up the brake fluid. Just shouldn't fall below the minimum. (But then discs and pads should be at the end.)
When changing the brake fluid, do not fill it higher than the previous level.
Do the maximum fill level only with brand new discs and pads.
This is how the system is designed. If you refill and at some point push back the brake pistons (e.g. changing the pads), there is too much brake fluid in the reservoir.
An excess quantity does not bring any advantage either, since only dead volume. Without effect.
@Stenzel-Germany your comment got me thinking of a couple of recent experiences. My brake reservoir had a leak back in 2021 and the reservoir was replaced. IIRC the fluid level was a tad under MAX. And recently, it starting leaking again and the level is also near MAX. Dealer replaced the reservoir again. I never had a car with near MAX level brake fluid level and having this issue. But got me wondering if I should just remove bit more.
01-15-2023, 03:10 PM
