Girodisc rotors toast after 6 track days. ☹️
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From: Norther CA
2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
Girodisc rotors toast after 6 track days. ☹️
I was cleaning my car yesterday and shocked to see my fairly new rotors were done for. slots are mostly smooth. started making a lot of noise recently even after new pads went in.
They had 6 track days on them and about 3k street miles. My last Girodisc rotors on my C7Z had over double that and still had life left. Drove it on street quite a bit as well.
I have Tikt brake ducts. Confirmed rotors were on correct wheels. I have the CCM calipers so i used their CCM conversion. different shape/sized pad from the factory iron rotor. Used the only choice for this combo. GP30 endurance pad. Same kit on the rear but i had Pagid endurance pads back there. those look really good but the rears always last a lot longer. before my 6th day i switched to GP20 in the back.
Performance wise they are great. used mostly at Laguna Seca and one day at Thunderhill. Stopping from 140 mph at Laguna had zero drama and 147 mph at Thill. great from the first to the last lap of each session.
I still have my front CCM rotors. thought about switching back and use the Pagid pads. cost wise that’s close to $500 per track day on rotors alone assuming 20 days out of them 😮. Even at only six days the front rings are only $1k so $166 per day for fronts. $232 front and rear assuming 12 days on rears. so even at a pathetic 6 days it’s still a lot cheaper and from what i understand better performing on track. 🤷♂️
Those costs are if I do the rotor swaps myself.
Thoughts ?
They had 6 track days on them and about 3k street miles. My last Girodisc rotors on my C7Z had over double that and still had life left. Drove it on street quite a bit as well.
I have Tikt brake ducts. Confirmed rotors were on correct wheels. I have the CCM calipers so i used their CCM conversion. different shape/sized pad from the factory iron rotor. Used the only choice for this combo. GP30 endurance pad. Same kit on the rear but i had Pagid endurance pads back there. those look really good but the rears always last a lot longer. before my 6th day i switched to GP20 in the back.
Performance wise they are great. used mostly at Laguna Seca and one day at Thunderhill. Stopping from 140 mph at Laguna had zero drama and 147 mph at Thill. great from the first to the last lap of each session.
I still have my front CCM rotors. thought about switching back and use the Pagid pads. cost wise that’s close to $500 per track day on rotors alone assuming 20 days out of them 😮. Even at only six days the front rings are only $1k so $166 per day for fronts. $232 front and rear assuming 12 days on rears. so even at a pathetic 6 days it’s still a lot cheaper and from what i understand better performing on track. 🤷♂️
Those costs are if I do the rotor swaps myself.
Thoughts ?
Last edited by dllhg; Feb 4, 2023 at 03:00 PM.
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AMG GT R Pro
I was cleaning my car yesterday and shocked to see my fairly new rotors were done for. slots are mostly smooth. started making a lot of noise recently even after new pads went in.
They had 6 track days on them and about 3k street miles. My last Girodisc rotors on my C7Z had over double that and still had life left. Drove it on street quite a bit as well.
I have Tikt brake ducts. Confirmed rotors were on correct wheels. I have the CCM calipers so i used their CCM conversion. different shape/sized pad from the factory iron rotor. Used the only choice for this combo. GP30 endurance pad. Same kit on the rear but i had Pagid endurance pads back there. those look really good but the rears always last a lot longer. before my 6th day i switched to GP20 in the back.
Performance wise they are great. used mostly at Laguna Seca and one day at Thunderhill. Stopping from 140 mph at Laguna had zero drama and 147 mph at Thill. great from the first to the last lap of each session.
I still have my front CCM rotors. thought about switching back and use the Pagid pads. cost wise that’s close to $500 per track day on rotors alone assuming 20 days out of them 😮. Even at only six days the front rings are only $1k so $166 per day for fronts. $232 front and rear assuming 12 days on rears. so even at a pathetic 6 days it’s still a lot cheaper and from what i understand better performing on track. 🤷♂️
Those costs are if I do the rotor swaps myself.
Thoughts ?
They had 6 track days on them and about 3k street miles. My last Girodisc rotors on my C7Z had over double that and still had life left. Drove it on street quite a bit as well.
I have Tikt brake ducts. Confirmed rotors were on correct wheels. I have the CCM calipers so i used their CCM conversion. different shape/sized pad from the factory iron rotor. Used the only choice for this combo. GP30 endurance pad. Same kit on the rear but i had Pagid endurance pads back there. those look really good but the rears always last a lot longer. before my 6th day i switched to GP20 in the back.
Performance wise they are great. used mostly at Laguna Seca and one day at Thunderhill. Stopping from 140 mph at Laguna had zero drama and 147 mph at Thill. great from the first to the last lap of each session.
I still have my front CCM rotors. thought about switching back and use the Pagid pads. cost wise that’s close to $500 per track day on rotors alone assuming 20 days out of them 😮. Even at only six days the front rings are only $1k so $166 per day for fronts. $232 front and rear assuming 12 days on rears. so even at a pathetic 6 days it’s still a lot cheaper and from what i understand better performing on track. 🤷♂️
Those costs are if I do the rotor swaps myself.
Thoughts ?
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Fast and Really Fast Sports Cars
Man only 6 track days? I presume each day is 4 sessions 30mins per ? Could the slots cut a bit too shallow? I had AP racing rotors on a different car that worn out the slots rather early and it was a light car. Turned out they made a mistake with slot depth. Caliper measured to have some meat left.
You run any brake temp indicators?
You run any brake temp indicators?
Thread Starter
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From: Norther CA
2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
Yeah i was tempted initially. I had my AP kit from C7 i used unsuccessfully with a botched kit someone made for our cars. Was told the iron worked better on track …. CCB still going to be about $500 per track day and i go about 20 times per year …. Love to get some feedback from someone who has tried both on these cars.
I still have the front CCM rotors. sold the rears to someone i know. they have 8k miles and no track days on them. 🤷♂️. $15k for all new rotors/pads would be tough pill to swallow. No idea how long my fronts are good for….. Another option is Spending $7-8k for rears and see how i like them.
Last edited by dllhg; Feb 5, 2023 at 05:11 PM.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Norther CA
2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
Man only 6 track days? I presume each day is 4 sessions 30mins per ? Could the slots cut a bit too shallow? I had AP racing rotors on a different car that worn out the slots rather early and it was a light car. Turned out they made a mistake with slot depth. Caliper measured to have some meat left.
You run any brake temp indicators?
You run any brake temp indicators?
5 20 minute sessions. possible but it dips down pretty far from
the center now. Plus I have more pedal travel even with brand new pads. They got noisy too last few days driving on both the old pads 50% and brand new pads.
Thread Starter
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From: Norther CA
2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
I’ll hit them up again. i did 6 months ago and they had no plans for a kit. not enough demand.
Too many *ussies afraid to drive their fancy cars on the race track 🙃
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Thread Starter
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From: Norther CA
2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
I think if money was no object i’d just go CCM.
20 track days CCM ($13,700 full set). give or take. $680 per day plus pads.
6 track days Iron front 12 on rear i’m getting $232.
more hassle having to swap them often. I can do that myself though. $330 installed cost. So still less than half the price.
I hate being cheap sometimes. 🤯. easier or cheaper 🤷♂️
now if there is quantifiable evidence, the iron Brakes function better that makes it a lot easier.
20 track days CCM ($13,700 full set). give or take. $680 per day plus pads.
6 track days Iron front 12 on rear i’m getting $232.
more hassle having to swap them often. I can do that myself though. $330 installed cost. So still less than half the price.
I hate being cheap sometimes. 🤯. easier or cheaper 🤷♂️
now if there is quantifiable evidence, the iron Brakes function better that makes it a lot easier.
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The best (anecdotal) data I've been able to find seems to imply as many as 30-40 track days, but the only way to tell is to get some proper data. To me, that means a collection of Carboteq tool readings from CCB rotors with known usage. I have the tool and have been keeping data on my GTR Pro's rotors, but it's too early to tell where it's headed. Since heat is the killer, not dimensional wear, the track, driving style and brake-cooling characteristics will all play an important part -- thus the need for a reasonable sample size in the data set.
BTW, IMHO the _only_ data that's valid is the Carboteq readings. The wear indicator method (that's provided in WIS) is a joke (and I wrote a paper describing exactly why that's so) and the weight method requires so much rigor in process that it's extremely prone to error.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Norther CA
2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,212
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From: Norther CA
2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
The reality is that there is no data (that I've ever been able to find) that reliably indicates how long CCB rotors will last with track use.
The best (anecdotal) data I've been able to find seems to imply as many as 30-40 track days, but the only way to tell is to get some proper data. To me, that means a collection of Carboteq tool readings from CCB rotors with known usage. I have the tool and have been keeping data on my GTR Pro's rotors, but it's too early to tell where it's headed. Since heat is the killer, not dimensional wear, the track, driving style and brake-cooling characteristics will all play an important part -- thus the need for a reasonable sample size in the data set.
BTW, IMHO the _only_ data that's valid is the Carboteq readings. The wear indicator method (that's provided in WIS) is a joke (and I wrote a paper describing exactly why that's so) and the weight method requires so much rigor in process that it's extremely prone to error.
The best (anecdotal) data I've been able to find seems to imply as many as 30-40 track days, but the only way to tell is to get some proper data. To me, that means a collection of Carboteq tool readings from CCB rotors with known usage. I have the tool and have been keeping data on my GTR Pro's rotors, but it's too early to tell where it's headed. Since heat is the killer, not dimensional wear, the track, driving style and brake-cooling characteristics will all play an important part -- thus the need for a reasonable sample size in the data set.
BTW, IMHO the _only_ data that's valid is the Carboteq readings. The wear indicator method (that's provided in WIS) is a joke (and I wrote a paper describing exactly why that's so) and the weight method requires so much rigor in process that it's extremely prone to error.
Good points about the track too. I drove mostly Laguna Seca. i just heard that it is the hardest track on brakes in the world 😮. C7Z i had would go one day on the pads. that was it.
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Fast and Really Fast Sports Cars
I would think THill is harder on brakes and if you head south a bit, BW is pretty hard. Have driven THill, LS, BW and Sonoma extensively. For LS, I imagine T2, pre T8 and T11 being the hardest?
That said though, our GT are not the lightest sports cars too. Have you tried Cobalt Friction? Their XR3, XR2 are good for track + street. Unless you swap at the track (I used to), XR1 can be your game.
That said though, our GT are not the lightest sports cars too. Have you tried Cobalt Friction? Their XR3, XR2 are good for track + street. Unless you swap at the track (I used to), XR1 can be your game.
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From: Norther CA
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I would think THill is harder on brakes and if you head south a bit, BW is pretty hard. Have driven THill, LS, BW and Sonoma extensively. For LS, I imagine T2, pre T8 and T11 being the hardest?
That said though, our GT are not the lightest sports cars too. Have you tried Cobalt Friction? Their XR3, XR2 are good for track + street. Unless you swap at the track (I used to), XR1 can be your game.
That said though, our GT are not the lightest sports cars too. Have you tried Cobalt Friction? Their XR3, XR2 are good for track + street. Unless you swap at the track (I used to), XR1 can be your game.
LS is def the hardest on brakes. Yes i tried Cobalts on the C7Z. four sessions on touching metal. couldn’t make a whole track day with them. Liked them but they were the shortest life pads. ST43/45 lasted better but still one day.
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good to know i’m not alone. After talking further with them one thing stood out. Appears my rotors had signs of severe temp shock. Need to really warm them up slowly the first outlap. start really light pressure first turn and ramp up to full pressure by final turn. said that would make a pretty big difference.
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I was cleaning my car yesterday and shocked to see my fairly new rotors were done for. slots are mostly smooth. started making a lot of noise recently even after new pads went in.
They had 6 track days on them and about 3k street miles. My last Girodisc rotors on my C7Z had over double that and still had life left. Drove it on street quite a bit as well.
I have Tikt brake ducts. Confirmed rotors were on correct wheels. I have the CCM calipers so i used their CCM conversion. different shape/sized pad from the factory iron rotor. Used the only choice for this combo. GP30 endurance pad. Same kit on the rear but i had Pagid endurance pads back there. those look really good but the rears always last a lot longer. before my 6th day i switched to GP20 in the back.
Performance wise they are great. used mostly at Laguna Seca and one day at Thunderhill. Stopping from 140 mph at Laguna had zero drama and 147 mph at Thill. great from the first to the last lap of each session.
I still have my front CCM rotors. thought about switching back and use the Pagid pads. cost wise that’s close to $500 per track day on rotors alone assuming 20 days out of them 😮. Even at only six days the front rings are only $1k so $166 per day for fronts. $232 front and rear assuming 12 days on rears. so even at a pathetic 6 days it’s still a lot cheaper and from what i understand better performing on track. 🤷♂️
Those costs are if I do the rotor swaps myself.
Thoughts ?
They had 6 track days on them and about 3k street miles. My last Girodisc rotors on my C7Z had over double that and still had life left. Drove it on street quite a bit as well.
I have Tikt brake ducts. Confirmed rotors were on correct wheels. I have the CCM calipers so i used their CCM conversion. different shape/sized pad from the factory iron rotor. Used the only choice for this combo. GP30 endurance pad. Same kit on the rear but i had Pagid endurance pads back there. those look really good but the rears always last a lot longer. before my 6th day i switched to GP20 in the back.
Performance wise they are great. used mostly at Laguna Seca and one day at Thunderhill. Stopping from 140 mph at Laguna had zero drama and 147 mph at Thill. great from the first to the last lap of each session.
I still have my front CCM rotors. thought about switching back and use the Pagid pads. cost wise that’s close to $500 per track day on rotors alone assuming 20 days out of them 😮. Even at only six days the front rings are only $1k so $166 per day for fronts. $232 front and rear assuming 12 days on rears. so even at a pathetic 6 days it’s still a lot cheaper and from what i understand better performing on track. 🤷♂️
Those costs are if I do the rotor swaps myself.
Thoughts ?
Did the whole Nring season on one set of disk, riding BTG Sub7 laps.
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Giro don't work on the AMG, we tried a few sets, only with the best cooling package (TIL MOTORSPORT) they can be "saved", but won't last well. You need a TIL MOTORSPORT package (cooling + own pads + own disk) to last well.
Did the whole Nring season on one set of disk, riding BTG Sub7 laps.
Did the whole Nring season on one set of disk, riding BTG Sub7 laps.
