How much time do you give your AMG GT S/C/R to “warm up” before driving.

I daily my AMG GTR and usually give it 30-60 second before backing it out of the driveway. Drive lightly until oil and fluids are warmed up, then drive normally.

Been doing this for my other sport cars in the past and never had issues. Most recent one being a Corvette C7 with 52k miles. Thoughts?

 

thats good enough. I just let the idle drop to normal after starting and then its time to move, albeit keeping rpms low until it reaches operating temp.

no need to leave the car running for longer to start up. Thats actually counter productive and not good.

 

Same for any car on street or track: cold start, wait until rpms drop drive in C or standard mode keeping RPMS low until all green on operating temps, then hammer it using any mode.

 

I had that same exact question for my cars. I am sure you can hear the car "wind down" (for lack of better terms) after about 30 seconds or so. On my cars after I did the solenoid mod that time went down to like 15 seconds. Historically I would not move the car until that point.

So, my guy (Mercedes Master Mechanic) said to just drive the car. The sound is the the oil coming to pressure and the cams changing their positions. While I do drive easier until the temps are good - I have been told many times (including my old Porsche Turbo S) that it makes no sense to warm the engine and not warm the rest of the drive terrain.

 

Yup...same as everyone else. Just wait till the rpm's drop.and then go and then easy until fully warm.

 

In the winter I might wait another minute before starting out, drive a bit more gentle for two minutes, and then wait for higher temps before spirited driving.

 

I never warm up the engine by keeping it idling (except long enough to lower my garage door), I simply drive without exceeding 3000 rpm until the engine oil temperature has reached at least 80C/180F... conversely, after driving sprited I never turn off the engine without first driving a few miles at low speed, and if that is not possible, I keep it idling for 1 minute or 2 before turning it off...

 

I don’t start my car until all preparations to get underway are complete. Seat belt buckled, walk around complete. Then I engage the start button, turn off the auto start with the adjoining finger, then put it into gear. While it is at high idle, check for traffic, pullout into the street, and idle in low gear for 2 minutes. I stay on neighborhood streets, and if any cars come up from behind, I wave them around me(so easy with the top down). The 2 minutes is for turbo spool up. I want the turbos to get full lubrication at minimum turbo rpm, also this gives the turbo oil, and engine oil time to heat up a bit. I have the trip 1 page up in my dashboard display, to count out the full 2 minutes. Then I switch my display to temperature readout, and my engine coolant is almost always already in limits. My engine oil takes about 10 minutes to warm up to a minimum temperature of about 158deg, and another 10 minutes for my transmission oil to heat up to about 128 degrees.
In the meantime, I am using enough throttle after 2 minutes, to barely get the rpm into the next gears range(about 2000 rpm). Now I am tooling around at residential speeds of 35-40 mph, until the engine oil is warm(10 minutes and 158deg).
Then I use no more than 3000rpm, until the transmission oil is warm(about 20 minutes and 128deg).
After everything is warm, use whatever rpm I may need.
On the cooldown, entering my neighborhood streets about 5 blocks from my house, I let the car idle, shooting for a 2 minute cooldown at idle, by the time I reach the driveway, or whatever other destination I am stopping at. If I haven’t observed my 2 minute cooldown yet, I park it and let the engine run at idle to round out the 2 min.
Some say a 30 second warmup and cooldown of the turbos are sufficient, but it goes against all my conditioning and experience with turbines.
The other reason I don’t idle at all, out of gear, after starting, is because with direct injection, none of the fuel(which is rich at this point) is being sprayed onto the backs of the intake valves. So any EGR or excess oil on the backs of the intake valves now have a tendency to coke over with time.
Don’t hate the player, hate the game!

 

All great suggestions, here is another thread on this topic as well: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...e-pushing.html

 

If I do this, I would be late for my appointment

I want to add probably pop the hood and check all the fluids and stuff such as oil level, coolant, (obviously do these both before starting the car) it is a good habit.

 

When I mentioned “walk around” prior to starting, my walk around includes those items. Maybe I shouldn’t have assumed everyone included those items on their walk around, or that they even perform one.
The other item I failed to expound on, is another reason why it’s not good for your car to idle after start, in neutral. As mentioned the fuel mixture right after a cold start is probably the richest the car will see. The rich mixture goes into the cylinders, and washes out/ dilutes whatever oil is present in the cylinder, and the wear observed there is the highest during normal operation. Putting the car in gear right away puts a load on the engine, reduces the rpm of the(choked) startup, and starts leaning the fuel mixture quicker.
It probably doesn’t make a huge difference in the short run, but in the long run could significantly reduce overhaul costs.

 

I see, understood and yes idling a cold engine is terrible and there is risk of mixing oil with the fuel.

 

I want to mention a post by you that was a great point, thought it is worth bringing back up in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...ml#post9070272

 

I wonder what measures (if any) manufacturers take when they implemented the remote start feature, obviously people idle a cold engine with remote start.