Ok I’m down to about 40 percent. It’s time to get new pads for my CCB’s What do you guys like best for the car? Mostly street and light track duty but also aggressive mountain driving. Obviously low dust and noise would be nice. Thanks in advance.

 

an unrelated question but why is there a need to change the brake pads if 40% life is left?

Is this another quirk for carbon ceramic brakes? At what mm thickness front/back is it recommended to change the pads? would be good to know since this is the first time ive had ccbs on my car. Ty

 

There’s no strict rule about replacing brake pads at 30–40%. It really comes down to personal preference and how much you want to preserve the rotors.
Swapping pads early can significantly extend rotor life, which might last through two or three pad sets with iron rotors, and even longer with carbon-ceramic rotors.

Here are some considerations:

Heat Management and Fade Resistance: A thicker brake pad has more thermal mass and material to absorb and dissipate heat. As pads wear down, they lose their ability to handle high temperatures without glazing, fading, or transferring uneven deposits to the rotor.
By the time you’re at ~2 mm, pads heat up much faster, which can cause brake fade especially in repeated or emergency braking.

Wear Unevenness: Pads don’t always wear evenly, inner vs. outer pads can differ significantly. Caliper slide pins, piston sticking, or rotor runout can make one pad thinner than the other.
By changing pads early, you avoid discovering one side is already dangerously thin.

Performance, Noise, Vibration, and Harshness: Worn pads (below ~30%) are more prone to squealing, vibration, and longer stopping distances.

Installing new pads on a worn or uneven rotor is never a good idea.

 

Good idea to replace at right below 50%, will extend the rotor life

I'm currently using RSC1
Front: Pagid Racing RSC1 (8088-RSC1)
Rear: Pagid Racing RSC1 (8246-RSC1)

These are track pads but I've heard 0 noise from them (bed them in correctly)

 

thankyou sir. I recall that my brake pads had 9mm left in the front and 10mm in the rear at time of purchase.

Is there a particular thickness at which you think I should be changing the pads provided I would like to extend rotor life and that im 90% street driving and no tracking.

 

These are very good pads for CCB.
Noise may come if you live in a colder climate area. A typical phenomenal for high performance pads.

 

I would use it down to 1/3 of the original new pad thickness.
From my experience with AMG GT pads, when new, most are 10-11 mm front and 12-13 mm rear for friction metal (not including the metal backing)

 

For street use (unless you drive like a very dangerous maniac), you'll not need to worry about pad/rotor temperature and can use the pads until they hit the sensor, typically at about 3 MM pad thickness (and even some after that). Effectively, CCB rotors should last the life of the vehicle, assuming no physical damage to the rotors (e.g., edge chipping when removing/installing wheels).

It's heat that "kills" -- chemically deteriorates -- the CCB rotors and street driving should never get brakes hot enough, often enough to create noticeable wear. Even for ardent "canyon carvers," I suspect the heat generated is largely a non-issue. It's going to take serious track use to significantly degrade the type of CCB rotors that Mercedes uses on its more modern vehicles. I don't know whether Mercedes ever used the older type of CCB rotors that didn't have the Carboteq wear-limit markings, but they were reputed to wear quickly with track use, but I've never seen any actual data that proved that, either.

Using the Carboteq analysis tool, I've been "tracking" the track-related wear on the CCB rotors on my GTR Pro and now have enough data to be relatively confident that I should get 40+ track days out of my CCBs, even though my local and most frequented track is brutal on brakes. I've posted some data on this at
https://mbworld.org/forums/coupe-roa...ml#post9196616

 

Very useful info. Thank you.
It seems that pads under CCB rotors are holding much better.
Are you using MB OEM pads or other after market?

 

This bedding process is important, and has been described in detail in other threads.
It’s remotely similar to breaking in some engines in a manner of speaking.

 

Indeed, especially with CCBs where it takes more effort to heat them up to bed, especially on the street

 

Pagid RSC1s are brilliant on track; rotor friendly and can be driven on the Street without issue.

Heat causes Oxidation which decreases the mass of the CCB rotors, so you want to minimise increased heat transfer to the rotor as much as you can.

If taking the car on a road course and driving it like it’s designed, think about brake ducts; (Tikt comes to mind), and replacing the RSC1s when they’ve worn 66% from new. This will enhance rotor longevity.

As mentioned above: the outer and inner pads wear differently. The inners wear more quickly and are prone to taper; (this from a Tech whilst attending an AMG Academy driving event at COTA). So, pay very close attention to the inner pads.

Major point: Pads are orders of magnitude cheaper than CCB rotors.

 

I've used both the TiKT/Pagid pads (the best) and OEM pads. I also have a set of "regular" Pagid (RSC1, IIRC) pads but have not needed them yet. Track life of the pads with CCBs seems to be very good (compared to pads on my C63 S with iron rotors ... possibly not a meaningful comparison). The braking with the Pagid pads felt better than with the OEM pads (though I think they're also Pagid so the [supposedly] special TiKT/Pagid version did seem valid).

 

Thanks guys. Some awesome info as well. I will go with the Pagid pads. Thanks guys.

 

The OEM pads in the GTR are a combination of a Pagid and Brembo, but I can’t remember which axle each is on tbh. At least my ‘18 can so equipped.

 

some questions about the CCB system: for sporty drives on road (no track days), how long do OEM front&rear pads generally last? How much do they cost ? Are there any alternatives such as Pagid, Ferodo, Brembo, or others? (I am referring to pads for sports use but on the road, so with good cold performance).

 

For sporty street driving, I would consider these pads virtually “lifetime” pads (or maybe at a range of 30K Miles), as on carbon-ceramic brakes (CCB) rotors they tend to last even longer than on iron rotors.
In the U.S., the OEM pads and PAGID RSC1 are similarly priced ( about US$ 750 per complete fron and rear sets) .
The RSC1 pads also offer excellent stopping performance in colder conditions, with a coefficient of friction of 0.43 at 100 °C.

 

IIRC my RSC1s were also way thicker than the OEM pads, so maybe a point about value there

 

Ive read that the RSC1s stopping power is good when cold but can anyone also opine on whether the RSC1s were more/less/same in terms of noise when cold and compared to the oem pads?

 

My RSC1s are actually more quiet than my oem pads which surprised me, though neither were "loud" compared to traditional track pads

 

Hey, best place to get the Rs1 pads? I have seen some crazy prices then finding some as a lot of places like tire rack seem to be out of stock. Anyone know of a good place to order them from and at good prices? Thanks in advance guys. Much appreciated. Seems like everyone likes these brakes, so I’ll give them a go.

 

do you know the RSC1 specific .p no. for both the front and rear calipers?

 

These are the PAGID pads that will fit the AMG OEM calipers that were design for CCB rotors:
Front:RSC1 Shape # 8088
Rear: RSC1 Shape # 8246

https://www.pagidracing.com/products/race-products/racing-brake-pads

https://www.pagidracing.com/products/race-products/racing-brake-pads/product-search

 

hey can you please share some feedback once youve swapped yours in terms of noise levels during street driving in comparison to oem? Thanks

 

Will do.