Rock Chip Repair
10-16-2005, 09:48 PM
#1
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Rock Chip Repair
I had bought MB touch-up paint and clear sealer package for my desert silver metalic paint.
Based on a recommendation posted somewhere on this forum, I ordered the Langka system off the internet. http://www.langka.com/
Which consists of three products; cleaner, blob remover, paint sealant and a medium sized brush.
I wanted to use such a "system" to get a proper cleaning job done and to avoid having to use sand paper.
I cleaned the spots with Langka cleaner.
I heated the paint container in hot water a shook well immediately before starting to apply the paint. Let the paint settle in over and hour or so and re applied in an effort to have the painted chip be taller than the surrounding paint. I let the touch ups dry overninght.
I used the Langka blob elliminator today. My recommendation ... don't leave the blobs too tall. Do not over paint. Try to apply the paint into the chip with surgical precision. The blob elliminator doesn't work that well.
I then sealed the paint chip repairs with Langka paint sealant.
Generally the metalic paint matches pretty well in colour and metalic apearance. I should have taken the time and an extra day to top up some of the paint chips again. Because some had become concave overnight.
The Langka blob ellininator rubbing seemed to darken the paint when I had too much blob to remove (maybe the paint was not fully cured inside the mass of the blob).
The Langka sealant went on nicely and seemed to leave a shine very similar to the untreated paint surfaces.
Then thinking that the job would not be complete without MB clear coat ... I proceeded to brush that onto each touch up area.
The MB clear coat went on fairly thick. In retrospect I probably should have stoped and taken the time to warm up the can in hot water to make it more viscous.
For the future ... is the clear coat necessary to prevent UV discolouration over time? The rock chip repairs blended into the car finish much better just after the sealant application and after buffing ... than after the clear coat application.
It is the thick clear coat that now is the most disturbing part of what I have created.
How do I go about minimizing the raised clear coat & brush marks that are so obvious?
Clay bar? Sand paper? Stripper? Buffing?
Based on a recommendation posted somewhere on this forum, I ordered the Langka system off the internet. http://www.langka.com/
Which consists of three products; cleaner, blob remover, paint sealant and a medium sized brush.
I wanted to use such a "system" to get a proper cleaning job done and to avoid having to use sand paper.
I cleaned the spots with Langka cleaner.
I heated the paint container in hot water a shook well immediately before starting to apply the paint. Let the paint settle in over and hour or so and re applied in an effort to have the painted chip be taller than the surrounding paint. I let the touch ups dry overninght.
I used the Langka blob elliminator today. My recommendation ... don't leave the blobs too tall. Do not over paint. Try to apply the paint into the chip with surgical precision. The blob elliminator doesn't work that well.
I then sealed the paint chip repairs with Langka paint sealant.
Generally the metalic paint matches pretty well in colour and metalic apearance. I should have taken the time and an extra day to top up some of the paint chips again. Because some had become concave overnight.
The Langka blob ellininator rubbing seemed to darken the paint when I had too much blob to remove (maybe the paint was not fully cured inside the mass of the blob).
The Langka sealant went on nicely and seemed to leave a shine very similar to the untreated paint surfaces.
Then thinking that the job would not be complete without MB clear coat ... I proceeded to brush that onto each touch up area.
The MB clear coat went on fairly thick. In retrospect I probably should have stoped and taken the time to warm up the can in hot water to make it more viscous.
For the future ... is the clear coat necessary to prevent UV discolouration over time? The rock chip repairs blended into the car finish much better just after the sealant application and after buffing ... than after the clear coat application.
It is the thick clear coat that now is the most disturbing part of what I have created.
How do I go about minimizing the raised clear coat & brush marks that are so obvious?
Clay bar? Sand paper? Stripper? Buffing?
10-16-2005, 09:55 PM
#2
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'03 Yukon XL Denali, '06 Eclipse GS
I'm not sure about claying, because it only removes light overspray and not a heavy blob of dried paint. I could be wrong, of course.
Do you have any pictures?
Do you have any pictures?
10-16-2005, 10:11 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by MBE55AMG
I'm not sure about claying, because it only removes light overspray and not a heavy blob of dried paint. I could be wrong, of course.
Do you have any pictures?
Do you have any pictures?
I will take & post pictures later.
10-20-2005, 06:59 PM
#6
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BLACK 05 C230SS
Originally Posted by ChrisB
I had bought MB touch-up paint and clear sealer package for my desert silver metalic paint.
Based on a recommendation posted somewhere on this forum, I ordered the Langka system off the internet. http://www.langka.com/
Which consists of three products; cleaner, blob remover, paint sealant and a medium sized brush.
I wanted to use such a "system" to get a proper cleaning job done and to avoid having to use sand paper.
I cleaned the spots with Langka cleaner.
I heated the paint container in hot water a shook well immediately before starting to apply the paint. Let the paint settle in over and hour or so and re applied in an effort to have the painted chip be taller than the surrounding paint. I let the touch ups dry overninght.
I used the Langka blob elliminator today. My recommendation ... don't leave the blobs too tall. Do not over paint. Try to apply the paint into the chip with surgical precision. The blob elliminator doesn't work that well.
I then sealed the paint chip repairs with Langka paint sealant.
Generally the metalic paint matches pretty well in colour and metalic apearance. I should have taken the time and an extra day to top up some of the paint chips again. Because some had become concave overnight.
The Langka blob ellininator rubbing seemed to darken the paint when I had too much blob to remove (maybe the paint was not fully cured inside the mass of the blob).
The Langka sealant went on nicely and seemed to leave a shine very similar to the untreated paint surfaces.
Then thinking that the job would not be complete without MB clear coat ... I proceeded to brush that onto each touch up area.
The MB clear coat went on fairly thick. In retrospect I probably should have stoped and taken the time to warm up the can in hot water to make it more viscous.
For the future ... is the clear coat necessary to prevent UV discolouration over time? The rock chip repairs blended into the car finish much better just after the sealant application and after buffing ... than after the clear coat application.
It is the thick clear coat that now is the most disturbing part of what I have created.
How do I go about minimizing the raised clear coat & brush marks that are so obvious?
Clay bar? Sand paper? Stripper? Buffing?
Based on a recommendation posted somewhere on this forum, I ordered the Langka system off the internet. http://www.langka.com/
Which consists of three products; cleaner, blob remover, paint sealant and a medium sized brush.
I wanted to use such a "system" to get a proper cleaning job done and to avoid having to use sand paper.
I cleaned the spots with Langka cleaner.
I heated the paint container in hot water a shook well immediately before starting to apply the paint. Let the paint settle in over and hour or so and re applied in an effort to have the painted chip be taller than the surrounding paint. I let the touch ups dry overninght.
I used the Langka blob elliminator today. My recommendation ... don't leave the blobs too tall. Do not over paint. Try to apply the paint into the chip with surgical precision. The blob elliminator doesn't work that well.
I then sealed the paint chip repairs with Langka paint sealant.
Generally the metalic paint matches pretty well in colour and metalic apearance. I should have taken the time and an extra day to top up some of the paint chips again. Because some had become concave overnight.
The Langka blob ellininator rubbing seemed to darken the paint when I had too much blob to remove (maybe the paint was not fully cured inside the mass of the blob).
The Langka sealant went on nicely and seemed to leave a shine very similar to the untreated paint surfaces.
Then thinking that the job would not be complete without MB clear coat ... I proceeded to brush that onto each touch up area.
The MB clear coat went on fairly thick. In retrospect I probably should have stoped and taken the time to warm up the can in hot water to make it more viscous.
For the future ... is the clear coat necessary to prevent UV discolouration over time? The rock chip repairs blended into the car finish much better just after the sealant application and after buffing ... than after the clear coat application.
It is the thick clear coat that now is the most disturbing part of what I have created.
How do I go about minimizing the raised clear coat & brush marks that are so obvious?
Clay bar? Sand paper? Stripper? Buffing?
Hi, I just wanted to mention that the Blob eliminator was not that great on a scratch repair job I did for a friend of mine. I had to do this 3 times to get it close to perfect but the scratch can still be seen. I don't recommend using this product on scratches and only on small tiny rock chips like you've mentioned.
10-21-2005, 12:13 PM
#7
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'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
As has been suggested the clear coat is paint without colour added. You need to level the clear coat to match the rest of the paint (3000 grit finishing paper and a sanding block)
FWIW this methodology can be used with any brand of 'paint pen'
Paint Chip Repair:
Why repair paint chips and scratches; to improve the vehicles appearance, increase retail value and to protect the vehicle from further damage. Chips and scratches aren't just aesthetically unpleasing, the exposed metal underneath may be prone to rusting or additional chipping. Fixing these spots with touch-up paint is an easy step in protecting your investment,
1. Apply isopropyl alcohol (ISP) to a q-tip and dab on the rock chip or scratch a few times.
2. Take a clean towel and dry the paint chip.
3. With painters masking tape cover the area surrounding the rust spot
4. Use 3000 grit finishing paper and sanding block to remove the rust
5. Use an AutoSharp paint pen (http://www.autosharppen.com) colour matched to your vehicle. The pen itself is very easy to use. You simply shake it, depress the felt tip a few times to start the paint flow, and then begin to "colour" paint into the damaged areas, much like you would highlight a section of text in a book.
6. Do not to try to fix the chip in one application, apply a small amount of paint and allow to dry, repeat over a couple of days. Once the painted area is slightly higher than paint surface, allow to dry.
7.Once completely dry, using 3000 grit finishing paper and sanding block, level touch-up paint level with the surrounding paint surface If you do this correctly, you will hardly notice that chip repair
8. Apply wax/sealant
JonM
FWIW this methodology can be used with any brand of 'paint pen'
Paint Chip Repair:
Why repair paint chips and scratches; to improve the vehicles appearance, increase retail value and to protect the vehicle from further damage. Chips and scratches aren't just aesthetically unpleasing, the exposed metal underneath may be prone to rusting or additional chipping. Fixing these spots with touch-up paint is an easy step in protecting your investment,
1. Apply isopropyl alcohol (ISP) to a q-tip and dab on the rock chip or scratch a few times.
2. Take a clean towel and dry the paint chip.
3. With painters masking tape cover the area surrounding the rust spot
4. Use 3000 grit finishing paper and sanding block to remove the rust
5. Use an AutoSharp paint pen (http://www.autosharppen.com) colour matched to your vehicle. The pen itself is very easy to use. You simply shake it, depress the felt tip a few times to start the paint flow, and then begin to "colour" paint into the damaged areas, much like you would highlight a section of text in a book.
6. Do not to try to fix the chip in one application, apply a small amount of paint and allow to dry, repeat over a couple of days. Once the painted area is slightly higher than paint surface, allow to dry.
7.Once completely dry, using 3000 grit finishing paper and sanding block, level touch-up paint level with the surrounding paint surface If you do this correctly, you will hardly notice that chip repair
8. Apply wax/sealant
JonM
Last edited by TOGWT; 10-21-2005 at 12:17 PM.
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10-21-2005, 09:53 PM
#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Sydney Benz
You can use the Langka to reduce the clear coat. The only difference between the colour base coat you applied and the clear coat, is the colour.
Not knowing paint / clear coats like you ... I would have thought they were vastly different.
With the confidence you gave me ... 4 1/2 days later I went down last night and easily used blob eliminator to take the excess clear coat off.
I am relatively happy with the whole process and end results.
If I had devoted a few more hours or care ... or one more day of total effort ... the end result could have been near perfect.
Remeber with metalic paint ... the flecks end up at the surface of the blob. So don't over fill with the metalic paint. It is tough to rub off!
