Jaki

Got up this morning on my day off and decided to wash and detail my car. For a while now I have been using Turbowax products and I couldn't be happier with the results that I get everytime! Never went back to anything else since I started using this product.


Here are some pics... notice, the car is silver, so it doesn't show as much reflection as darker colored cars... I have some pics of how my black truck looks after a detail if you really want to see how it works on dark colored cars.

OCKlasse

baller.

Ryanr317

Looks good man. Would've been nice to see the car in person when i was down there.

rlee02135

looks great! love the wheels

jenk12m

looks good

Nickc0844

Silver is always tough to get to shine...not bad!

Ryanr317

Smoke out your taillights! The red part only. I think it will look awesome on silver.

Jaki

Thats on my list of things to do... I just need to find someone good that can do it.

GTBrad

Very nice, what are you using for clay?

Jaki

I don't use a clay bar, instead I use the "Pre-Wax Cleanser" from TurboWax. It does the same job as a clay bar, and its included in the complete detail kit from TurboWax.

Nickc0844

A prewax cleanser is NOT a replacement for clay. The PWC is simply a chemical cleaner, while clay removes the physical contaminants that bond to your clearcoat. They are not interchangeable.

If you want the best in your detail, after your wash, clay is the way to go!

meegle

Agree Had overspray on our SL which PWC didn't help.
Ended up using the clay kit from Meguiars and was extremely pleased with the results.

HLG600

dtxmob

Can you link the pics of your Black Truck after using Turbowax. I'm considering a quick way to wash my New Infiniti QX56 without any swirl marks or spider webs(lol) Thanks!

Greg@DI

Swirl free washing and drying is not easy, so its important to have the right products and process. Here is a link to our washing and drying step by step guide. Washing and drying is often the most overlooked step but is one of the most important. To complete an effective wash you want to safely remove as much contamination as possible. Removing contamination can be done with a good auto shampoo, mitt and drying towel. A true auto shampoo has conditioners in it, which allow it to more safely break up contamination compared to shampoos with conditioners. Soaps like Dawn have powerful stripping agents that can dry out your clear coat, vinyl trim and plastic trim with repeated use. After selecting a good auto shampoo make sure you have a paint safe wash mitt. We recommend using two wash mitts, one for upper panels and non-heavily contaminated areas, while the other mitt is for lower panels, wheels and heavily contaminated areas. For upper panels I use the Sheepskin Wash Mitt, which is regarded as one of the safest washing tools in detailing. Its essential that you keep the mitt touching your clear-coated surfaces as clean as possible so you don’t drag contaminates across your paint. After completing the wash make sure you’re drying with a paint safe towel. Many people use rags and old towels that can be adding micro fine scratches in the clear coat. We highly recommend getting microfiber waffle weave towels that are totally paint safe and absorb large amounts of water.

Also to further protect the paint I recommend applying a sealant. Sealants are more durable and a better form of protection then waxes. I personally use the Menzerna FMJ and/or Klasse AIO. If you'd like a recommendation for your particular vehicle let me know.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

meegle

Greg,

Just visited your site and noticed your Poorboy's Wheel Sealant.
What is the difference between your product and a high quality wax/sealant?

I have to clean my wheels every single time we take it out and was hopeful that your product would perhaps extend the cleaning intervals.

TIA

Greg@DI

Thanks for visiting our site! You asked a great question and I'll do my best to answer. Sealants are essentially using similar properties as waxes but remove particles that don't add to the shine, durability, ease of use, color, etc. Waxes come from nature and have lots of hydrogen in them which is a large part of water molecules. It makes waxes more sensitive to temperature changes, abrasions and is the reason why natural waxes are not as durable as sealants (generally speaking). When companies develop sealants they pick and choose what features are most important to them (to an extent). Certainly for a sealant going on your paint you expect a great shine so they have to leave in characteristics that add to shine. Where as the sealants that they apply to wheels don't have as much shine and are focused mainly on protection. Therefore by removing properties designed to add shine the Wheel Sealant delivers a higher concentration of protection in its formula. From what the Poorboy's World owner tells me the Wheel Sealant has a boiling point at 400+ degrees. This is especially important when trying to keep high temperature brake dust off the wheels and cleaned more easily. It helps repel the brake dust and other road contaminates, but is primarily known for making cleanings much easier. Some users can simply just rinse the wheel down and the brake dust comes right off. In summary the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealants are designed less for shine but more for protection.

Side note: A friend of mine was just about to experiment with the Wheel Sealant on their paint. I'll have to see how that goes and if you want I'll let you know how that goes.

You can try a generic sealant on your wheels, just make sure it doesn't have carnauba wax in it. The Klasse AIO is a great product on the paint that also gets great reviews as wheel protection too.

For cleaning your wheels quick and easy I recommend the P21S Metal Polishing Soap. Just wet the supplied applicator pad and wipe it across the soap and you have an instant rich lather that cleans and shines the wheels in one step. Its my favorite wheel cleaner that makes cleaning quick and effective.

I realize this is a lot of information so let me know if you have any questions, I'd be happy to clarify anything. Also if you have any other detailing questions, don't hesitate to contact me.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Jaki

Just want to make sure that you didn't misunderstand me... I never said that it WAS a replacement, I just said that I don't use it. I said I use the pre wax cleanser instead because it has given me great results so far, and I have not had the need to use a clay bar.

Sure... here are a few:

Nickc0844

Perhaps it was not me misunderstanding you, but rather you covering yourself? You say it in plain light with the word "INSTEAD" and "IT DOES THE SAME JOB AS A CLAY BAR". A Prewax cleaner DOES NOT replace clay. Clay is essential for EVERY car!

How else am I, a professional detailer with multiple certifications, supposed to react to that?

I hate to bust your chops, but in all honesty, I'm kinda sick of hearing about TurboWax from you on this forum and others. It makes me wonder what your "real" agenda is? All this when we have a forum sponsor DETAILED IMAGE who pays good money to legitimately advertise. I'm not saying we shouldn't discuss other products, but don't discuss them with an agenda in mind.

Please contribute to the forum without saying or linking to TW in every post

Quadcammer

car looks real clean, but those stickers have got to go.