AustinGuy

I have read quite a few threads/forums. Even spent a lot of time reading Autogeek.net and http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/

But .... the more I read the more confused I get especially when it comes to which products would work best. I know there are a ton - Menzerna, Klasse, P21S, Wolfgang, etc.... but what I'm looking for is simple advice to do 2-3 common things for a new car to make sure it stays in prestine condition:

Considering this is a brand new car:

1) How do take care of the leather and make sure it's kept in good condition? I would imagine that the dealersip would not have put anything on the leather. Which is the best Ph-neutral, silicone-free and BEST overall leather clearner/conditioner out there?

2) Exterior: Again, tons of products. I use P21S but the last time I bought the shampoo it did not produce much suds. I literally had to pour 1/2 the bottle into a 3 gallon bucket! I love their wheel cleaner gel though. I'm looking for recommendations for
- a good paint clearer and if I need to use one NOW or just wait till the car is older. My thinking is that dealerships don't use the best products to detail and so my car probably has some junk stuff on it even though I bought it from a MB dealership.
- Wax: Which product is the best bank for the buck? Do I need a Carnauba wax or will the polymer stuff like Meguir's NXT work? P21S carnauba?
- Paint Sealer: Which is the best bang for the buck? Do I need to apply this?

Thanks!

Greg@DI

I certainly understand there is so much detailing information (some good, some bad) out there that it can be overwhelming and confusing. It sounds like you are trying to get a relatively quick process that will help preserve your new Mercedes. I'll try and provide some recommendations based off my experiences.

For the leather I would recommend a cleaner, conditioner and protectant. For cleaning and conditioning I highly recommend the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean. They offer deep cleanings and powerful conditioning to help leather stay strong yet flexible. After I'm done I apply a light coating of the 303 Aerospace Protectant to my leather to help block UV rays that cause slow fade, etc.

For the exterior make sure you have a good set of washing and drying products and good technique. This is the step where you will add most of the swirls (approximately 70%) if you are not careful. I suggest reading our Detailing Guide if you would like more specific advice and recommendations. I really like the Poorboy's World Super Slick and Suds and Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II. If you would like any additional product recommendations or advice please let me know.

On new vehicles the most important step is protection. I typically recommend using a sealant to protect the paint because they last so much longer than a natural carnauba wax. I really like the Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 for strong protection that also makes the paint shine. If desired you can apply more protection and gloss with a carnauba wax. We have so many outstanding waxes in our carnauba wax section.

It's not mandatory but you can further clean the paint if desired with a clay bar and/or a paintwork cleanser. Clay bars help remove surface contaminants and really deep clean the paint. I also like to use a paintwork cleaner or chemical polish on the paint to help clean and shine it. They use chemical cleaning agents to remove contaminants, oxidation, extremely fine surface imperfections. These steps help prep the paint before sealing but are not mandatory. I would suggest doing them at least 1 - 2 times per year if interested.

We offer a 10% off coupon to members of MBWorld "10offMBW" at www.detailedimage.com if you're interested. If I can provide any further advice or recommendations please let me know I would be happy to help.

Greg @ Detailed Image

AustinGuy

Greg,

Thanks! I will look into all the subject matter you posted.

Is Leatherique ph-neutral and silicone free? How does it compare to Lexol, Wolfgang, etc? Do any of the 3 products you mentioned have an odor? I really don't want to lose that new leather smell.

You seem to like the Chemical Guys and Poor Boys products. How do they comapre with P21S, WOlfgang, Pinnac;e, etc? The reason I got on the P21S bandwagon is because the products are all pH-neutral and do not contain harmful/acidic ingredients. Are those 2 products in the same mold?

More questions:

1) What do you recommend for tire shine? I've used Meguire's hot shine and it's not very lasting and requires you to use a lot of it.

2) I hear a lot about clay bars - do I need to use this?

3) For washing - which is better sea sponge or sheep skin mitt?

4) would you recommend Venture Shield? If so, how does it affect the clear coat? Is it visible at all?

Greg@DI

The Leatherique products are definitely silicone free but I'm not 100% sure about the pH level. I believe they are neutral and totally safe to use on virtually every leather (leather, vinyl, leatherette, etc.). They have a slight odor to them that is really hard to describe. I don't think it will remove much of the current leather smell. The leatherique products are easily my favorite leather care products. I haven't tried the Wolfgang products but I feel it's easily superior to Lexol and many other products I've tried.

I love the P21S Auto Shampoo, but sometimes you do need a little extra to get that thick lather. Both shampoos I listed are pH neutral and won't strip off protection, etc. All three are quality products and the differences are slight.

For tire dressing I prefer the Poorboy's World Bold n Bright and the Blackfire Long Lasting Tire Gel (w/polycharger). Both formulas are really effective and last quite a while!

Clay bars are not a must but it's a great way to deep clean the paint. I use it on brand new paint to keep the paint really clean before applying a coat of protection. In short I would definitely recommend using it 1 - 2 times per year at least.

Both mitts could be argued to be the safest. I don't think there is a clear cut answer, it comes down more to personal technique and experiences. Again both products are very good, just what works best for you.

I'm not directly familiar with the Venture Shield so I won't comment on there exact services. Maybe can you post a link to it and ask others for their experiences?

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

AustinGuy

Thanks.

Do you have a link that describes the steps involved in detailing (esp. for new cars)

Greg@DI

Our Detailing Guide has lots of good insight and step by step instructions. If you have any specific questions let me know.

Greg @ Detailed Image

AustinGuy

Regarding clay bars - Do I need it for a brand new car that's 1 week old? If so, I can't get used to the thought of sliding a "bar" of any sort on my pristine S63 :wall...... Tell me it's not like taking a 2x4 and sliding it across my car!

Sealant vs. Wax: I'm still on clear on whether I need to use both and when. If I need to put on a sealent now, then how long do I have to wait before applying wax?

How long after washing my car can I wait to apply wax/sealent? The reason I ask is bec. I typically hand wash my car at a car wash and then drive it about 1/2 mile back home and then I let it sit in the garage. Can it sit for a few days - week before I apply the wax/sealant as long as I don't drive it? (married w/2 kids - time is not on my side)

Thanks again Greg - you have been a great help!

Greg@DI

The clay bar is not a must have at any point, however it's a standard part of my new car prep. Most vehicles travel by railroad at some point and often have rail dust on them and other debris. I just prefer to clean the paint thoroughly before sealing, especially when it's new. The bar is very soft and absorbs in any contaminants. The clay lube you spray on the paint helps the bar glide easily and safe. If you are reasonably careful it should be a very safe process.

Sealants and waxes essentially do the same thing, which is shine and protect. Sealants last much longer therefore we recommend applying a sealant over a wax if you're only going to use one. If you want the optimal shine and protection apply a wax on top of a sealant. A quality sealant will last about 3 - 6 months depending on a variety of factors. I suggest re-applying it every 3 months to be on the safe side.

I would highly recommend washing it and then sealing it right after. The less contamination on the surface the better, dust and road grime are inevitable. If you do wait or drive it home you may just want to spray a little quick detailer on a clean microfiber towel(s) and wipe the paint down with very light pressure. This will help safely remove contaminants and allow you to apply the sealant without having dust, etc. on the paint. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

AustinGuy

So, is this the order of doing things:

wash, clay bar/paint cleanser (like P21S), sealant, wax?

Greg@DI

Perfect!!! That should make the paint look excellent and protected.

Greg @ Detailed Image

AustinGuy

So you recommed doing clay bar, paint cleanser and sealant in that order?

Greg@DI

Yes you have it right. I wash wash, dry, clay bar, paint work cleanser (polish), sealant and then wax.

Greg @ Detailed Image

AustinGuy

So, you recommend doing a clay bar AND paint cleanser? I thought they were both the same with the clay bar offering better cleaning...?

Greg@DI

Ideally I would do both steps for best results. Certainly you could just do one or the other but ideally I would do both. They do some of the same things but not exactly. The Paintwork cleanser helps remove micro-contaminants, but typically these contaminants are somewhat loose, but not loose enough to come off while washing. The Paintwork Cleanser also will help remove oxidation in the clear coat so you get a deeper and glossier shine. The clay bar removes slightly more stubborn contaminants and removes more contaminants stuck in the micro-ridges of the clear coat.

I hope this helps clarify things, let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Kar don

Man Austin guy, lots of questions.

I would NOT use leatherique on a brand new vehicle. Smells funky and u will lose that great new car/leather scent. Stick with something like Zaino z10 or another leather conditioner. Lexol also has a heavy smell.

For paint, it all depends on how often you like to wax and the look you like. A sealant like zaino or klasse will give you a HARD shine like (which i like) or you can use a carnuaba wax which will give you more of a shimmer/glowing shine especially at sunset.

stormkenny3

nice thread. i did all steps about 3 months ago(great results) hope to do thread of how it went. lets just say i was at it from 10.30am till 8.30pm.

AustinGuy

That's hilarious! I just did that this weekend - put my P21S kit (that I got a while back) to good use. Washed, cleanser, wax and then put on some wheel wax. I was stuck in the garage from about 11am to 8pm! My wife thought I was nuts. Every time I came back into the house to get some water, etc. she'd ask me how much longer..... and mumble under her breath.

AustinGuy

Thanks. So since my car is brand new, what leather cleaner can I use that's superior in quality and doesn't have an odor?

AustinGuy

Greg - thanks for all your help! You have really narrowed it down for me as well as cleared up a LOT of uncertainities I had about all this! Wouldn't want to be experimenting on an 09 S63!

I have one more set of questions and then hopfully I'll be done and ready to buy some products:

1) For tire detailing you mentioned Poorboy's World Bold n Bright and the Blackfire Long Lasting Tire Gel. Do either leave an oily residue? Which one has more shine. Ever hear of "Forever Black"?

2) Applicators: I have a round 6" sponge that came with some Meguire's wax I purchased a while back. Is that good enough? The ones that I've seen online all look the same - like the Meguire's one I have. The problem seems to be that a lot of wax gets absorbed into the sponge resulting in wastage, in addition to making it messy. Are there applicator pads that have some sort of thin sponge layer and then a barrier (so that wax does not soak in all the way) and also are easier to clean/wash?

On that note, how do you clean the spong applcators? Washing will not take out all the wax...... so how does one clean the applicators?

3) How do the products on detailimage compare to Wolfgang, Pinnacle, Klasse, etc? What's your experinece using these?

4) Wash mitt/sea sponge: Which is better? For mitts which works better - sheep skin or micro fiber?

Can Drive 55

I have used many products, including Meguire's and I prefer Zaino products. they are easy to apply, last a long time, and produce excellent results.

I did the following (copied from the Zaino website) and my car looked has like new for its entire life.

Step 1—STRIP THE OLD WAX
Wash the car, going top to bottom, with Dawn Ultra® liquid detergent.
Thoroughly rinse the car with a pressurized hose and spray nozzle. Make sure all detergent soap is gone. Leave Dawn in the kitchen since you'll never use it again on your car.
Dry completely using only clean, soft, absorbent towels.

Step 2—REMOVE CONTAMINANTS AND PREPARE THE SURFACE
Feel all paint surfaces. They should be glassy smooth. Contaminated rough areas are quickly minimized using Zaino Z-18 Claybar™ and a soap and water lubricant. Re-wash and dry the treated areas.
Look for hazy paint, swirl marks or fine scratches. Imperfections are reduced using Zaino's Z-PC Fusion™ paint cleaner and swirl remover.
Add a light coat of Z-AIO™ to all paint as the foundation and bonding agent. Remove with clean, soft towels.

Step 3—APPLY AND REMOVE ZAINO POLISH*
CHOOSE THE RIGHT ZAINO POLISH FOR YOUR VEHICLE'S PAINT
Z-2 PRO™ Show Car Polish is for paint with a clear coat finish—virtually all modern cars.
Z-5 PRO™ Show Car Polish is just like Z-2, but helps hide swirls and micro scratches in dark color paint.
Spray a little Z-6 Gloss Enhancer™ on your Zaino Polish Applicator. Apply Zaino polish to the paint. Use up/down motions on vertical surfaces, and front/rear (front to back of car) motions on horizontal.
Allow the polish to dry and chemically bond on the entire car for at least fifteen minutes. To test for dry, wipe an area with a finger. Dry polish is slightly powdery and comes off with one stroke, revealing clear dry paint underneath. Low temperature or high humidity can increase drying time up to two to three hours. Remove the dried polish using high quality towels.
When all polish is removed, spray a light coat of Z-6 Gloss Enhancer. Immediately buff dry.


I alternated coats of Z-2 (for gloss) and Z-5 (for smoothness) and used Z-6 between coats. The car looks like a mirror and the last application is a couple of years old and still looks great.

I used Zaino Z-16 on the tires, and Z-9 and Z-10 on the leather. They give the car the new car smell as well as cleaning and protecting the leather.

I am sure your S-63 will look great no matter what you use. You have a great starting point. Congrats on the new vehicle and enjoy.

Greg@DI

1.) I think the Poorboy's World BnB absorbs in to the tire the best and is the best product for the rubber. This greatly reduces sling on the paint while being good for the rubber. The PBW BnB leaves a very light residue if applied thin, but dries quickly. The Blackfire Tire Gel may be just slightly darker but more oily. I think the Poorboy's World BnB better suits your needs in my opinion.

2.) I certainly understanding your concern and there is no perfect answer in my opinion. The pad you have is probably fine assuming it is clean. Using an old applicator with dried up wax is never a good idea. To some extent getting some product in your applicator is inevitable. I try to apply very thin amount of product to minimize this problem. I clean them by soaking the applicators in a bucket with the Snappy Clean and then thoroughly rinsed out, sometimes twice. I would say the Lake Country Red Foam Applicator Pad is your best bet.


3.) All the brands you mentioned work well. We carry the Klasse products and some Pinnacle products. I have limited experience with Wolfgang but I'm pretty familiar with the company. In my opinion getting the right products just depends on your personal needs and what works best for you. At Detailed Image we tend to pick and choose the products we like best, instead of just carrying certain brands. We never just carry a product because it has a certain brand name. I tend to have favorite products from a lot of different brands, just depends on my particular goals for the detail. If you state your specific goals (shine, protection, ease of use, durability, etc) I can provide more direct comparisons, although I try not to talk about competitor's products directly. If you have any specific questions please let me know.

4.) Both the sea and sheepskin work great. Again I think this comes back to personal experience rather than one being universally better. Different people like different things. I really like the Sheepskin Wash Mitt and the Lake Country Ulti-Mit. I definitely prefer Sheepskin Wash Mitts over Microfiber Wash Mitts. It should be much safer during the washing process.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I'll be here to help you make sure the S63 will be looking top notch.

Greg @ Detailed Image

AustinGuy

Thanks for the great write up.

Looks like Zaino is awesome. 2 years between applications on the wax? Wow!

Kar don

i wouldn't wait 2 years... 3-6 months max.

CynCarvin32

after putting blackfire wet diamond on your asian rice rocket Kardon I would have thought you would promote that product! Zaino is to complicated to use. Anything with a 5 page guide on how to use it is to complicated!

Did yo zaino the CLS?

PartyVan

I would think Zaino is hardly complicated at all. I've been using zaino since the z5 pro days and their instructions are always direct and simple : wash car with blue Dawn, apply zaino, wipe off after haze and enjoy the shine. It's the waiting time for z5 to haze that take forever but since then ZCS has been introduced. Direction? Simply spray it on and you're done! It has the same kind of shine and smoothness as Z5 pro without any wait time.