I have bought like four different type of spray-on hose-off products, none of them work! I have no choice but to use a very soft "Brake Dust Brush" to painstakingly clean one spoke at a time! It sucks!

I have "Brake Dust Shields" (Kleen Wheels) on all four wheels of my MDX. I installed them on all four wheels when I purchased my MDX almost two years ago. The wheels look brand new even now! So far I had no problem what so ever, even though the MDX weights like two tons and I drive in a steep environment (lots of brakes).

Of course I will not put "Brake Dust Shields" on my SLK55! Those brake discs and calibers are way too beautiful to cover them with ugly black discs. So, I was wondering how you guys deal with this issue?

Brake Dust Shields also dramatically increase brake fade because they block a major outlet for heat. Your stopping distances are definitely increased by their presence there.

As for what to use on the wheels, I find getting a separate mitt for washing the wheels works great. Just get the mitt wet with soapy water and go to town. Get in the nooks and crannies and hose them off. Try not to get the brakes wet though, unless you want rust or squeaking to occur.

I hope this helps.

The Kleen wheel covers will help alot! But any remaining brake dust on my cars gets removed by Sonus Rim Bright. It safe for ALL wheel types. It works as well if not a tad better than P21S wheel cleaner.
First I rinse with plain water from the hose to loosen any debris that will come off, then I spray it on a COLD rim, let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes then take an old wash mitt and rub every square inch of the rim to lossen the dust, then simply hit it with the hose.
Pertctly clean everytime!!
When you rinse with the water then add the rim cleaner the PH is a neutral level.

Thanks! I will try the Sonus Rim Bright. But the wash mitt is really the one thing I didn't know.

You DON'T have to use a wash mitt, but I do becfause it super soft and has a less chance of scratching anything.DONT use a sponge!!
I use an old viking wool wash mitt. I have three. One for the top part of the car, the second for the lower parts of the car and the third for the wheels.

Thanks for the mitt idea and try not to get the brakes wet.
The "Kleen Wheels" are vented and are certified by TUV AND they are ugly!

I have come up with a very efficient method for cleaning my wheels. It sounds crazy, but I have been doing it for the past ten years without any damage or haze to my wheels (chrome and aluminum).

Get a small spray bottle filled with half water and half rubbing achohol. Have paper towels and tissues. Don't ever spay anything on the wheels! Spray on the paper towel and do a small section of the wheel (about 5-10 seconds of wiping). Then immediately, wipe dry with the tissue continue until you are finished with the wheel. I do this twice a week so the black never builds up too much. It takes me about 5 minutes a wheel and each wheel always comes out perfect. I do not feel comfortable spaying those wheel cleaners anywhere near my paint. To add to that, they simply don't clean as good either.

Anyone who gives this a try, I think will be very happy with the ease and results. Time to complete each wheel will improve once you learn the contours of your wheels.

How does getting your brakes wet when washing your car differ from going through rain and puddles? In the past I have hosed down the entire wheel arch with the wheels off thinking that if the water from a hose can reach it so can all the road dirt. The brake discs do get some surface rust which seems to be worn away as soon as the brakes are applied but otherwise I have never had a problem with them.

Cleaning Wheels and Tyres:
·Ensure wheels and rotors are cool before applying cold water as this may cause them to warp. Hose off as much initial grime as you can. Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and other debris.
·Use detailing clay to remove any imbedded contaminants
·Use a solvent based cleaner to remove any road tar
·Apply a solution of P21S Total Auto Wash to wheel-wells and tyres, and let soak in, agitate with a long-handled boars haired brush before rinsing
·Spray P21S Wheel Cleaner, this cleaner is 100% acid-free and will not damage any type of wheel finish. (Gel for badly soiled and regular for normal soil) onto wheel rims and lat soak in.
·Before finally removing cleaner, agitate with a soft brush and then rinse off
·Rinse wheel surface thoroughly with clean water (to avoid splashing paint surface rise by pouring a bucket of water over each wheel from the top down
·Dry wheels with a towel, apply a sealant to the surface of the wheels themselves will protect the finish from brake dust and the elements and also making them easier to keep clean.
·Wax has a low melting point and will not withstand the sustained temperatures
·Clean tyres with a rubber cleaner (3M Tire & Wheel Cleaner -39036) or a citrus-based APC (P21S Total Auto Wash)
·Apply a polymer-based tyre dressing (Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss™)
·Thoroughly hose off tyres and wheel-wells, apply a (UVR) protect ant to tyres.

Maintenance- apply a sealant after cleaning to make maintenance easier, use a synthetic polymer sealant to protect wheel surfaces as it has a high melting point (350oF +) The melting point of wax (180oF+) is too low for the normal temperatures encountered by vehicle wheel surfaces (194oF+)

Also using a polymer sealant enables the wheel surface to resist the adhesion of brake dust, dust and dirt, and road grime and it makes surface cleaning much easier using only a car wash concentrate and water solution.

Dosing your wheels before using a wheel cleaner will allow cleaning agents to be carried to remote areas that might not be reached by spraying the cleaner on a dry wheel surface. This also allows it to penetrate brake dust and road grime easier.

JonM