bxtech

Hello,

My car is a 1985 300D (W124) Euro model 6 cylinder non-turbo diesel. I recently developed a fuel leak at the injection pump from one of the fittings on top of the unit. There are six of them (one for each cylinder)......I believe these are called delivery valves? Please correct me if I am wrong. I was told that these were removable and that there are o-rings inside that need replacing. Looking at them, they have a splined portion which is used by metal brackets to hold them in place. The metal brackets are mounted to the injection pump with Torx screws. My questions are:

1) Are these fittings that go between the injection pump and metal line called delivery valves? If not, what is the correct name?
2) Can these delivery valves be removed and the o-rings be replaced? I assume that this should solve my leakage problem.
3) Are these delivery valves left or right handed threads? Any other special precautions I should take when performing this repair?
4) It also looks like I need a special wrench or socket to remove these delivery valves. Any recommendations on where I can buy one? I found a socket at this website (Tool #M0109).....Is this the correct tool?

http://www.technictool.com/merc.inj.pump-sockets.htm

I am mechanically inclined and I have worked on my own cars for years. However, all of my cars have been gas engines, and this is my first experience with a diesel. I am not familiar with the terminology of some of the part names or procedures, as this is a learning process for me at the same time! Any help/advice would greatly be appreciated!!

Thanks in advance
Alex.
bxtech@excite.com

snapondom

Yes, they are delivery valves. You do need the special socket. There are o-rings and copper washers that should be changed. Be careful, get all of the parts, change them one at a time and torque them to the correct specs. This is a common source of leaks for these engines.
Good Luck, Domenick

no-blue-screen

Same problem on a 82 300D Turbo Diesel. Does anyone know the part # for these crush washers/o-rings? I am having trouble finding where to get them. Also, does anyone know of a good write-up that shows you how to replace them? I am pretty mechanically inclined, but mostly used to working on gasoline engines. As I understand it, I should not remove the 2 12mm bolts because that would require me to have the injection timing reset. Any help is greatly apprecaited.

Thanks.

wallye320

I just got the same in my car (1997 E300D ) I will take it to mb Dealer to fix

I will get back to you once I do so to let you know what happend

best regards

wallye320

I was so disappointed to learn that MB would not fix my leak as they asked me to see diesel repair shop and when I asked what mb has to offer me to fix my problem

my MB service advicer said replacement of the pump

ok what the price

$5,000.00

no-blue-screen

BUMP...does anyone know where these crush washers can be purchased? Went to the dealer and they have "no clue" what I need. Thanks.

prometheus

Find any diesel injection pump shop, preferably Bosch/ADS certified. Actually, only Bosch certified ones. They will know exactly what you need.

Without knowing what part of the country you are in, I can't make any close recommendations. There is Scheid Diesel in Indiana and Illinois, and Huckstorf Diesel in Wisconsin. I would try Scheid first since they do damn fine work and I trust no others with my Dodge. You can call J.P at their Terre Haute office: (800) 669-1593. He knows his Bosch pumps better than almost anyone out there.

www.scheiddiesel.com
www.hdiesel.com
http://www.davesdiesel.com

72chevy4x4

the dealer should have a fiche to look up the part number. regarding the guy who had the 97 e300, I have a 96 and had the same problem. Dealer wants us to buy a new pump, but you can use the o-rings from an earlier diesel engine b/c the pump is nearly the same. not sure of the part number b/c I couldn't find the receipt. The tool was absolutely necessary-got mine off ebay from a tool dealer-seems it was a "Sam Stag" tool. Be careful of the fuel line clips-when I pulled them off a few broke and had to be bought from the dealer.

wallye320

http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm#diesel

tool # 617 589 01 09 00

w124steve

I had some leaking coming from my '95 E300D about a month ago. After examining the delivery valves, I deduced that a seal or an O-ring was broken. Here is how I dealt with the leak:

1. Removed the pipe that delivers air to the intake manifold. This gives more room to work with the fuel delivery valves without taking off the air intake manifold. If you cannot work in that area, go ahead and take off the air intake manifold.

2. Removed the fuel filter system:
Unscrewed the filter from the shutoff valve.
Removed the filter and the shutoff valve.
Removed all the fuel hoses running to the fuel filter system.
(four hoses: four on top, one on bottom)
Removed the fuel filter system (holds the fuel filter and shutoff
valve), which was held on by two long bolts.

3. Unbolted the pipes on the top of the six fuel delivery valves.

4. Each of the delivery valves had a spined washer with a notch on one part of the washer (Please excuse the rugged description). The spined washer fit the delivery valves' spined pattern. The notch had a hole where a bolt secured two washers in the same place. I removed all of the washers. Just unbolt them and wiggle them off the delivery valve. The washers will have to exit between the pipe and the delivery valve.

5. Obviously here is the part where I would have used the spined rachet head to remove the delivery valve. Instead I was a cheap *******. I individually placed the spined washer back onto the delivery valve. I gently tapped the notch on the washer with a screwdriver and hammer in the direction that would loosen the delivery valves. I would remove and replace the washer in a positions that did not block the notch. I would say that I had about a 100 degree clearance to turn the valve in this manner. The valve were removed with very limited damage to the spined washers. A very long and tedious process.

6. The delivery valves have a spring and a small cylinder under the nozzle. DO NOT LOSE THESE. I did not lose them, but I can imagine the position I would be in if I had to order them. I would be hitching a ride on Monday morning to say the least.

7. Bought #12 O-rings from Lowe's (though any hardware store would carry them) and removed and replaced the O-rings on the delivery valves. I don't remember the thickness. I do remember that I used slightly thicker O-rings that the ones on the valves for extra precaution. If I did it again, I would use the exact same thickness instead.

8. Replaced everything in the opposite process that I removed them (yes even the screwdriver and hammer process). Ensure that the small cylinder is on top of the spring when putting the delivery valves back on. Also ensure that the cylinder enters the nozzle tip of the delivery valve.

The leaking stopped at the injector delivery valves. The process spills plenty of diesel everywhere, but I am pleased with the end result. I did a mass quantity of research before performing this task. I even ordered the copper seals for the injectors under the assumption that is where my leak was at. Good thing they were only a dollar each. Obviously there are other smaller details that I have failed to enter, but I can help answer any questions.

w124steve

I appologize. The previous reply was in reference to the first question on the thread by bxtech though anyone is welcome to the information. Let me know if more information is needed on this reply.