Thanks to the post by CDIKEN I decided to do my own oil change and I am glad I did.

I have always changed the oil in all my other vehicles but was a little hesitant due to the different filter, engine covers and undercarriage cover setup. However, $200 dollars for a change at the dealer, my discomfort of a 13500 mile change interval, and the dealer screw up of not tightening the drain plug one time which resulted in a quart of oil on my garage floor all drove me to attempt it.

Here is my experience:

Top engine covers come off easy. Make sure you have a torx #30. Bottom undecarriage covers come of easy as well using small socket set. I used some drive on Rhino ramps to lift the car. I removed the filter housing using the Mercedes oil filter adapter I bought from the dealer. It works well. The filter is also easy to change. When I went to remove the drain plug I found the dealer had tightened it so tight during the previous oil change/leak incident that the head was starting to strip with my hand socket. It was at this point I decided to do my own experiment of the vacuum out method versus removing the drain bolt. I used a marine drill pump suction setup and let it run for about 10 minutes. The suction port is at the back of the engine with a red cap. I made sure to get the suction tube all the way into the sump. It seemed to work pretty well. Next just to see how much oil was left I decided I had to get the oil drain plug off. I had to use an air wrench at full torque to get if off. Now I was pissed at the dealer. There is no way that drain plug should have been tightened that tight. Now, to my surprise I got about another 1/8 quart out of the engine. I might add that I had also jacked the rear of the car to level it out on stands for the suction process. I replaced the drain bolt with a new unstripped one and also used a new copper washer.

My overall observations:

• The tech that over tightened my drain bolt during the last oil change is an idiot.
• I am NOT convinced that the vacuum method works that great. Convenient and quick and no jacking/raising of the car ? Yes, but not very thorough in oil removal.
• When working on/under this car I realized how well engineered it really is compared to my other vehicles and why Mercedes cost the money they do.
• I will defintely be changing my oil every 6500 not 13,500 miles. It was so black you would never believe it.
• Don't be intimidated about the covers and different filter housing.

 

Don't sweat the black oil, it's a diesel thing.

I think you'll find that even at 6500 miles it will be jet black.

 

I'll back that up personally. While I don't have a Benz diesel, I've owned two VW diesels and a diesel Pugeot. And cdiken is 100% correct. Oil out of all those machines was always jet black.

 

How do you check the oil level with no dipstick?

 

no problem.

Set the instrument cluster to service mode, add about 7 quarts, run motor, let it set a few minutes, then top off to 7.5 using the quantity display.

 

I have 4 diesel engines in addition to the CDI (I have less than 6K miles so I have not changed the oil yet). On the other 4 engines, the oil is black with in hours of an oil change.

 

Thanks guys for the feedback the oil being so black. That makes me feel better and thanks Jimbo1mcm for your original post on pulling up the service indicator. It is amazing to be able to see the exact quantity of oil in the sump. I have shown that to a few friends and they are amazed. This forum is great !!

 

how do you get to the quantity display?

Thanks

 

Put key in the ignition and turn to position 1. Set your display where it is reading MPH. Press the reset button on left side of dash 3 times and then press the arrow up button. Turn ignition key to position 2 and exact amount of oil in the sump will be reading at the bottom of the display. This is how you can make sure you get 6.8 quarts in the sump. My experience is like CDIKENS in that it takes about 7.5 quarts to reach that level.

 

It will be jet black at one mile!

 

05 CDI very stinky oil and it makes a mess on the floor if you spill. more so than a gas engine oil change. Filter was $16.00 oil with coupon $16.00. Not sure what a dealer charges? Was considering taking to Jiffy lube but bringing my own supplies just to avoid the mess. Anyone done this? I'd still pay them the $20 if they wanted it.

Steve

 

You mean just using Jiffy Lube's area to do your work? I wouldnt let those guys touch your car at all. We just had a long discussion about the problems with those places in the Off Topic Section.

I agree with all those who say dont sweat the black oil. All the diesels in my famliy have jet black oil nearly right away.

 

Perhaps not JL but a local shop who can easily deal with draining & disposal and does not mind customer supplied parts & oil. One that I can go out in the shop and wacth what's going on.

 

wow, jiffy lube???? I don't think I would buy a MB if I didnt think I could bear paying the full price of a dealership service.... just my opinion but theres more to a oil change the jiffy lube even knows....


-dan

 

Oh my god. Do not let Jiffy lube or any ot those type of places touch your car. I suggest you go to the dealer if you are not going to do it yourself. See this video of what goes on at Jiffy Lube.

Here is the full link to the video:

http://mfile.akamai.com/12924/wmv/vo...52183.200k.asx

 

JRGD4L, Thanks for the info on how to access the amount of oil in the engine. Where can I find that sequence code published? Are there other published codes to access other info? Thanks again.

 

I have not seen any of this info published but share the same interest you have in getting other access procedures if they exist. I surmise this came from the technical service manual which I believe can be bought. I came by this procedure from this forum.

 

Hi all,
I'm getting ready to purchase an used 2005 E320CDI, just wonder if there is any issues or what I should look for (problems?) I've heard there were Electronic issues when one fail will cost muiltiple system fail? (since MB do not have their electronic in Modular.)

Also just learn the way you guys have shown how to read the oil level (since there isn't a old fashion dip stick). It's nice to know you can sort of check your oil level with this trick, because when turbo gets old they do use some oil, and we really want that turbo lurbed, don't we.
Anyway, the thing that I'm still unclear is when you mentioned that you have to pour 7.5 liter into the engine to register 6.8 (on the display);but actually in the sump is 7.5 liter?
I haven't gotten the service maunal nor do I know exactly the capcity of this engine hold? how much will the filter hold? and was the 7.5 liters actually included the oil filter being filled?

Thanks, I'm very new to this car. I haven't even bought it yet, but would like to learn more before purchase.

Thanks again.

Dennis

 

On the Inline 6 diesels it is necessary to tilt the car forward before running the motor as oil starvation is a huge issue. Many people have reported oil starvation as a result frying main bearings (even Mercedes released a TSB on this issue). I would be very weary of having an oil change done at a quick lube place, as they probably do not know about this.

http://www.curtrich.com/july1999.html

"
Quick Lube Jobs
We have rebuilt a number of late model E300 Diesel engines of late which had oil changes at some of the fast lube places. They have been changing the oil incorrectly and frying the bearings. This engine must be tilted down at the front when the new oil is put in BEFORE THE ENGINE IS STARTED, or it will be damaged. Our guy changes oil on Mercedes 8 hours a day. Why then would you take your $45,000 piece of equipment to someone who doesn't know how to work on them and risk doing damage in the 5 figure category? Tell me again how much cheaper their lube job was."

 

You're living in la la land if you think anyone without Mercedes factory training can sucessfully do any service on your car.

 

TSB? Tilt engine forward? What does this mean? Jack the car up prior to starting? BTW...any problems with filling the engine from the filter housing? Much more convient spot to add oil and it drains in faster.
Thanks for any feedback. BTW...local dealer oil change is $100 but the wait is a killer.

 

I too have always changed my own oil.

My 2006 VW diesel's oil gets black the moment you start it after a fresh change! Okay - minor exaggeration! But you get the idea!

What oil are you guys putting in? Is it the same for the current V6's?

Will all of the oil drain properly if it's up on ramps? I'm assuming front ramps only where the car is tilted back.

 

TSB=technical service bulletin... You must tilt the car down in front so that oil starvation does not occur.

 

How much of an angle? can the car be set like this and then drained? Any problems with putting the oil in thru the filter canister opening?
Thanks for the help.....

 

but yes it is OK to put the fresh oil down the filter opening.
I have done it many times and it has been working OK. I think pretty much that is how everyone is doing it. The oil is going to the same area....the pan.