Modded OM642 Diesel on the dyno
#1
Modded OM642 Diesel on the dyno
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 4
From: Toronto
2006 E320 CDi, 2008 3/4 Ton Suburban, 2007 "rice rickshaw" Accord 5 speed
#6
I would gladly replace the stock snail with one that packs more CFM... If anyone has the knowledge, please advise.
I've debated sending the CP3 and injectors off for some modding.
Personally, from a 215hp and 376tq rating at stock I'm happy with these numbers for now.
Originally Posted by stickygreen
Likely increase power, decrease exhaust gas temperatures, and increase turbo lag.
-Rob
#7
Could be wrong, but I doubt there is a readymade "bigger" turbo out there that would work with all the electronics of the vehicle. However, I see no reason you couldn't send your turbo to have some tweaks...maybe a bigger compressor wheel and have the turbine housing coated. If you haven't done so already, opening up the exhaust downstream of the turbo should help a bit with EGT's.
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#8
Banned
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 3
From: Federal Heights, CO
1982 300D VNT, 1980 240D 3.0T, 1982 300TD
but I still cringe at routine 1100 degree temperatures.
The turbo is a GT2056V, already very small for stock power. Fitting a different turbo would need at the least a custom pipe to adapt the y-pipe to the turbo inlet. The GT2359V from an E320 CDI or GT2559V from the C30 CDI AMG would be a very nice upgrade.
Last edited by 240D 3.0T; 03-07-2009 at 04:56 AM.
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 4
From: Toronto
2006 E320 CDi, 2008 3/4 Ton Suburban, 2007 "rice rickshaw" Accord 5 speed
The engine is doing that to keep the DPF clean. Get rid of the filter, cats, EGR, get a tuner to program their functions out and EGTs should go down considerably and economy will be much better.
The turbo is a GT2056V, already very small for stock power. Fitting a different turbo would need at the least a custom pipe to adapt the y-pipe to the turbo inlet. The GT2359V from an E320 CDI or GT2559V from the C30 CDI AMG would be a very nice upgrade.
The turbo is a GT2056V, already very small for stock power. Fitting a different turbo would need at the least a custom pipe to adapt the y-pipe to the turbo inlet. The GT2359V from an E320 CDI or GT2559V from the C30 CDI AMG would be a very nice upgrade.
It is fair to say that the less junk the EPA mandated the easier it is for diesel users to comly (cheaper and easier to maintain diesel cars). Probably the one and only exception is the common rail diesel that sneaked through (read 2005-2006 CDi). Mercedes was readying the high pressure injection for stricter EPA and California laws before they came into being. The much lamented result (by the Naderites) is an engine with higher horsepower without the junk.
This, my friends, is the reason I chose the CDi and not the Bluetec - this is a car with the power but not the junk of the latter. See where my right middle finger is Ralph?
#10
The engine is doing that to keep the DPF clean. Get rid of the filter, cats, EGR, get a tuner to program their functions out and EGTs should go down considerably and economy will be much better.
The turbo is a GT2056V, already very small for stock power. Fitting a different turbo would need at the least a custom pipe to adapt the y-pipe to the turbo inlet. The GT2359V from an E320 CDI or GT2559V from the C30 CDI AMG would be a very nice upgrade.
The turbo is a GT2056V, already very small for stock power. Fitting a different turbo would need at the least a custom pipe to adapt the y-pipe to the turbo inlet. The GT2359V from an E320 CDI or GT2559V from the C30 CDI AMG would be a very nice upgrade.
There's no resonator on the exhaust now either. I am very interested in modifying the ECU parameters, altough I've not found anyone willing and in possesion of an engineer-mode StarScan.
I suspect there would be a satisfying drop in EGTs with a better breathing turbo onboard.
-One last question: Do neither of the turbos mentioned above mount in the engine valley as does the 2056V? I'm curious as to how much pipe fabrication would be needed.
Don't I know it. In stock form, raising temperatures of 1420-F isn't very hard at all. REGEN is the worst: In mid-stride on a flat, level road 1300-1400 is quite easy to attain.
Last edited by Rob CL; 03-08-2009 at 01:33 PM.
#11
Banned
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 3
From: Federal Heights, CO
1982 300D VNT, 1980 240D 3.0T, 1982 300TD
Fabrication would involve making a J-pipe from the up-pipes to the turbine flange and a base to mount the turbo.
Without the DPF, that cat is likely just getting plugged with soot.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 405
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, AZ
2007 GL320 CDI, 2001 TJ Rockcrawler, 2005 Scoobie STI
Rob,
Good stuff man!!! I have a 2001 Wrangler as well, and I am very familiar with the enthusiasm of Jeep owners to make improvements on their vehicles.
Can you make a list of all of the mods you have done so far? I think I have seen most of them in various posts, but not all in one place...
Good stuff man!!! I have a 2001 Wrangler as well, and I am very familiar with the enthusiasm of Jeep owners to make improvements on their vehicles.
Can you make a list of all of the mods you have done so far? I think I have seen most of them in various posts, but not all in one place...
#13
No, both those engines are inline engines. The 3.0L is the first V-design diesel mercedes has made with a single turbo. The 4.0L V8 uses two turbos on the outside of the engine.
Fabrication would involve making a J-pipe from the up-pipes to the turbine flange and a base to mount the turbo.
Without the DPF, that cat is likely just getting plugged with soot.
Fabrication would involve making a J-pipe from the up-pipes to the turbine flange and a base to mount the turbo.
Without the DPF, that cat is likely just getting plugged with soot.
Rob,
Good stuff man!!! I have a 2001 Wrangler as well, and I am very familiar with the enthusiasm of Jeep owners to make improvements on their vehicles.
Can you make a list of all of the mods you have done so far? I think I have seen most of them in various posts, but not all in one place...
Good stuff man!!! I have a 2001 Wrangler as well, and I am very familiar with the enthusiasm of Jeep owners to make improvements on their vehicles.
Can you make a list of all of the mods you have done so far? I think I have seen most of them in various posts, but not all in one place...
Code:
AEM Dryflow, Relocated Baro Sensor, TDC Powerbox CR+ (B), Hawkeye EGT, GReddy Catch-can, DashHawk v2.0 (BETA 9), Boost Silencer/DPF/Resonator Delete
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 430
Likes: 5
From: USA, EU
06 E320 CDI (GONE), 14 Jeep GC EcoDiesel, 01 Disco II (GONE), 09 BMW X3 3.0 Si Xdrive
Hey Rob
How much power you want to gain? Did you ask yourself.....
Here is some reading:
Things you need to estimate:
· Engine Volumetric Efficiency. Typical numbers for peak Volumetric
Efficiency (VE) range in the 95%-99% for modern 4-valve heads, to
88%-95% for 2-valve designs. If you have a torque curve for your
engine, you can use this to estimate VE at various engine speeds.
On a well-tuned engine, the VE will peak at the torque peak, and
this number can be used to scale the VE at other engine speeds.
A 4-valve engine will typically have higher VE over more of its rev
range than a 2-valve engine.
· Intake Manifold Temperature. Compressors with higher efficiency
give lower manifold temperatures. Manifold temperatures of
intercooled setups are typically 100 - 130 degrees F, while nonintercooled
values can reach from 175-300 degrees F.
· Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC). BSFC describes the
fuel flow rate required to generate each horsepower. General
values of BSFC for turbocharged gasoline engines range from 0.50
to 0.60 and higher. Likewise a typical Brake Specific Fuel
Consumption (BSFC) is in the range of 0.38 for a diesel.Matches
will be calculated with an Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) of 22:1 for low or
no smoke performance.
I have an engine that I would like to make 425HP, I want to
choose an air/fuel ratio of 22 and use a BSFC of 0.38.Where:
Wa=HP*A/F*BSFC/60
Wa= Airflow actual (lb/min)
HP = Horsepower Target (flywheel)
A/F= Air/Fuel Ratio
BSFC= Brake Specific Fuel Consumption = (lb/hp for hour ) ÷ 60 (to convert from hours to minutes) of air.
Wa=425*22*0.38/60=59.2 lb/min
So you will need to choose a compressor that has a capability
of at least 59.2 pounds per minute of airflow capacity. Next, how much boost pressure will be needed?Calculate the manifold pressure required to meet the horsepower target.
Where:
MAPreq=Wa*R*(460+Tm)/VE*N/2*Vd
MAPreq = Manifold Absolute Pressure (psia) required to meet the horsepower target
Wa = Airflowactual (lb/min)
R = Gas Constant = 639.6
Tm = Intake Manifold Temperature (degrees F)
VE = Volumetric Efficiency
N = Engine speed (RPM)
Vd = engine displacement (Cubic Inches, convert from liters to CI by multiplying by 61, ex. 2.0 liters*61 = 122 CI)
Wa = 59.2 lb/min as previously calculated Tm = 130 degrees F VE = 98% N = your engine RPM for max HP
Vd = your engine liters * 61 = 400 CI
There are some more calc to get the full picture if you are interested.
sorry if the formulas are not visible, but I can send them to you
How much power you want to gain? Did you ask yourself.....
Here is some reading:
Things you need to estimate:
· Engine Volumetric Efficiency. Typical numbers for peak Volumetric
Efficiency (VE) range in the 95%-99% for modern 4-valve heads, to
88%-95% for 2-valve designs. If you have a torque curve for your
engine, you can use this to estimate VE at various engine speeds.
On a well-tuned engine, the VE will peak at the torque peak, and
this number can be used to scale the VE at other engine speeds.
A 4-valve engine will typically have higher VE over more of its rev
range than a 2-valve engine.
· Intake Manifold Temperature. Compressors with higher efficiency
give lower manifold temperatures. Manifold temperatures of
intercooled setups are typically 100 - 130 degrees F, while nonintercooled
values can reach from 175-300 degrees F.
· Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC). BSFC describes the
fuel flow rate required to generate each horsepower. General
values of BSFC for turbocharged gasoline engines range from 0.50
to 0.60 and higher. Likewise a typical Brake Specific Fuel
Consumption (BSFC) is in the range of 0.38 for a diesel.Matches
will be calculated with an Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) of 22:1 for low or
no smoke performance.
I have an engine that I would like to make 425HP, I want to
choose an air/fuel ratio of 22 and use a BSFC of 0.38.Where:
Wa=HP*A/F*BSFC/60
Wa= Airflow actual (lb/min)
HP = Horsepower Target (flywheel)
A/F= Air/Fuel Ratio
BSFC= Brake Specific Fuel Consumption = (lb/hp for hour ) ÷ 60 (to convert from hours to minutes) of air.
Wa=425*22*0.38/60=59.2 lb/min
So you will need to choose a compressor that has a capability
of at least 59.2 pounds per minute of airflow capacity. Next, how much boost pressure will be needed?Calculate the manifold pressure required to meet the horsepower target.
Where:
MAPreq=Wa*R*(460+Tm)/VE*N/2*Vd
MAPreq = Manifold Absolute Pressure (psia) required to meet the horsepower target
Wa = Airflowactual (lb/min)
R = Gas Constant = 639.6
Tm = Intake Manifold Temperature (degrees F)
VE = Volumetric Efficiency
N = Engine speed (RPM)
Vd = engine displacement (Cubic Inches, convert from liters to CI by multiplying by 61, ex. 2.0 liters*61 = 122 CI)
Wa = 59.2 lb/min as previously calculated Tm = 130 degrees F VE = 98% N = your engine RPM for max HP
Vd = your engine liters * 61 = 400 CI
There are some more calc to get the full picture if you are interested.
sorry if the formulas are not visible, but I can send them to you
Last edited by isstay; 03-28-2009 at 12:13 AM. Reason: formulas are not visible
#16
Mods: Can one of you PLEASE replace the link in my first post with this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snZY6jzEKek
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snZY6jzEKek
#17
hi Guys, im a newby in here but hopefully some one can help me. I ve just purchased a om642 v6 3.0l for a 4x4 hilux, but i'm goning to **** the turbo off ond put a m90 eaton super charger on it. there are no threads supporting this mod can any on put me in the right direction, any help would be appricated. once completed i'll throw up photos and hp ratings and answer any questions how I did it. What I want is so one who has done this and learnt by his mistakes so i dont do the same. regards kim
#18
Banned
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 3
From: Federal Heights, CO
1982 300D VNT, 1980 240D 3.0T, 1982 300TD
M90 is too small. If you're using it to get the engine going off the line, its only gong to be active for the first ~300rpm because the stock VNT spools up to full boost by 1800rpm.
#19
Mods: Can one of you PLEASE replace the link in my first post with this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snZY6jzEKek
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snZY6jzEKek
If so what motor? and what did it take? Do you have a build Thread?
I am trying to do the research for a couple of projects.
#1 put a OM642. (if Possible) into a 4x4 Build I want to make it a nice daily driver but looks as well. & or what ever motor might be recommended for this. I am not off roaring it, but will drive it in the winter.
#2 a Trail Build tubular chassi custom 1 off build, I am not sure what motor as of yet, but if I am correct the more torch the better then HP ratio. for this.
Thanks in advance
#20
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 430
Likes: 5
From: USA, EU
06 E320 CDI (GONE), 14 Jeep GC EcoDiesel, 01 Disco II (GONE), 09 BMW X3 3.0 Si Xdrive
Ok correct me if I am wrong, but you have a 3.0l Turbo Diesel Motor in this Cherokee that i watched on YouTube. Correct?
If so what motor? and what did it take? Do you have a build Thread?
I am trying to do the research for a couple of projects.
#1 put a OM642. (if Possible) into a 4x4 Build I want to make it a nice daily driver but looks as well. & or what ever motor might be recommended for this. I am not off roaring it, but will drive it in the winter.
#2 a Trail Build tubular chassi custom 1 off build, I am not sure what motor as of yet, but if I am correct the more torch the better then HP ratio. for this.
Thanks in advance
If so what motor? and what did it take? Do you have a build Thread?
I am trying to do the research for a couple of projects.
#1 put a OM642. (if Possible) into a 4x4 Build I want to make it a nice daily driver but looks as well. & or what ever motor might be recommended for this. I am not off roaring it, but will drive it in the winter.
#2 a Trail Build tubular chassi custom 1 off build, I am not sure what motor as of yet, but if I am correct the more torch the better then HP ratio. for this.
Thanks in advance
#21
Ok correct me if I am wrong, but you have a 3.0l Turbo Diesel Motor in this Cherokee that i watched on YouTube. Correct?
If so what motor? and what did it take? Do you have a build Thread?
I am trying to do the research for a couple of projects.
#1 put a OM642. (if Possible) into a 4x4 Build I want to make it a nice daily driver but looks as well. & or what ever motor might be recommended for this. I am not off roaring it, but will drive it in the winter.
#2 a Trail Build tubular chassi custom 1 off build, I am not sure what motor as of yet, but if I am correct the more torch the better then HP ratio. for this.
Thanks in advance
If so what motor? and what did it take? Do you have a build Thread?
I am trying to do the research for a couple of projects.
#1 put a OM642. (if Possible) into a 4x4 Build I want to make it a nice daily driver but looks as well. & or what ever motor might be recommended for this. I am not off roaring it, but will drive it in the winter.
#2 a Trail Build tubular chassi custom 1 off build, I am not sure what motor as of yet, but if I am correct the more torch the better then HP ratio. for this.
Thanks in advance
#22
300d, brake, consumption, diesel, efficiency, fuel, gl320, mercedes, om642, performance, psi, review, specific, turbo, volumetric
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