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Old 11-03-2009, 10:40 AM
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1999 E300 TurboDiesel
Glow Plug Questions

Hi All,
This morning my '99 E300TD started no problem @ 40 F, but after about a minute my check engine and glow plug light came on + stayed on. Near as I can tell from the threads this is probably from a bad glow plug ( ? ) . I've read they are a real pain to replace - but not being particularly bright, I'm going to attemp to replace them myself.
I have a couple of questions before I start though-
1.) What is the best penetrant to use - I have oil of wintergreen, but I'll pick up anything if it's recommended to work well.
2.) some posters have recommended not to replace any that aren't broken - sage enough advice, but I'm wondering if it is worth dealing with them and getting some really good hi temp antisieze on them - I'm planning on keeping this car a long time, so I'm sure the others are going to need replacing at some point anyway. ( or am I wrong ? )
3.) I have read that there are some brands which are better than others - although that was from a very old post - any reccomendations ?

Finally, I attempted to buy a service DVD for my MB this AM, but they all seem to be backordered - any ideas here ?

Thanks in advance for your advice
Old 11-03-2009, 04:56 PM
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09' E320
Get your multimeter out and follow the tutorial on dieselgiant.com for testing the W123 GP's and relay. Our relay is diff but teh principals are the same. Now you'll at least know if it is a GP (and which one) or the relay.

The code will tell you the same info if its good enough to read MB specific codes. P1_365, 7 & 9 references GP's 1 or 2, 3 or 4 and 5 or 6 respectively.

Beru's came OEM; Bosch is a bit cheaper.

Mine were repalced with Beru's at 110k; replacements ahve been in there 165k now. Didnt use antisieze; nor did, or does, MB use it to this day.

If I have to do mine again, I'll only replace the bad one(s). Would feel pretty stupid snapping off a perfectly good one attempting preventive maint. My .02.

Use PB Blaster or Kroil penetrating oil. Use a torque wrench to loosen. Don't exceed 45NM. I like the rat-ta-tat action of an air wrench if you can dial down the torque. Some folks will fire the engine up with IM off and heat it to operating temp, then hit the GP with Freeze to contract the metal just prior to attempting to loosen. Some merit to that in my mind as the metals are shrinking while others are expanded and thermal expansion and contraction is owrking on adhered carbon on the shaft and tip of the GP also.

Ream the carbon out before putting back together.

Search "606 Broken GP" and similar.

Last edited by TMAllison; 11-03-2009 at 04:59 PM.
Old 11-03-2009, 04:56 PM
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Check out www.peachparts.com web forum. There is a DIY on the glow plug procedure on there. Its a good step by step.

-I didn't use any penetrant when replacing my plugs. Just lots of care, time and skin off my knuckles taking them out.
-I would say that its worth it to pull all the plugs, replace them, and use the proper reaming tool to clean out the area where the plugs sit.
-I couldn't recommend any specific brands of glow plugs. I think I used OEM which are Bosch.
Old 11-03-2009, 05:48 PM
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Thanks Guys,
I appreciate your getting back to me. I'll definitely meter out the GP's to find the bad one(s) and use the torque wrench method to save snapping one off if possible. I'm amazed that there isn't an antisieze MB uses ! I realize that it gets pretty hot, but there are some amazing nickel and copper based compounds out there - I'm going to look into that a bit more. I use
N5000 and N3000 made by Locktite Corp on all kinds of other apps and have had some amazing sucesses - I'll let you know what I find out.
I'm off the next two days, so I'll clean the garage and get ready !
Old 11-05-2009, 12:44 AM
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09' E320
Beru sells a high temp grease that "they" recomend. MB doesnt use it, or antiseize.
Old 12-08-2009, 01:49 PM
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My GLOW light just came on.

Hello all, I'm Wayne, this is my first post. I use to be a Tech for BMW 1986-1990. My Diesel 1999 e300 188K miles, while driving he other night the light came on. In the morning when I stared the car, it sputtered a bit then I just gave more fuel and it smoothed out. But the light is still on. How long can I really drive this? I'm moving to Los Angelas and Need to drive it down from San Francisco, a six hour drive. My guess is when the engine is hot, the glow plugs that's probably failing will work well?

My logic not sure if its good. please any feedback.

thanks

wayne
Old 12-08-2009, 10:57 PM
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Follow the testing advice in post #2 above. Is simple.

Once started and running smoothly its fine. The GP's turn off after a couple of minutes and the heat of compression ignites the fuel thereafter.

You might glow twice during the first sttart of the morning and raise rpm to smooth it out until it idles normally.

Read up on the dangers of changing them before tackling the job.
Old 12-09-2009, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by TMAllison
Follow the testing advice in post #2 above. Is simple.

Once started and running smoothly its fine. The GP's turn off after a couple of minutes and the heat of compression ignites the fuel thereafter.

You might glow twice during the first start of the morning and raise rpm to smooth it out until it idles normally.

Read up on the dangers of changing them before tackling the job.
Thanks for the Help. I went out and started it up, and drove to the store and back and its all seems very well, just a very cold weather condition situation and a bad glow plug. Thanks again.
Old 12-09-2009, 07:15 PM
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09' E320
I live in Walnut Creek. It has been very cold this week; was 32f this morning which is unheard of.

Some of the folks at work didnt wear shorts today.....
Old 12-16-2009, 11:01 AM
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82 mb 300sd, 85 mb 300sd, 96 Niva, 80 300sd parts car
We have an Arctic inflow with temps to minus 8C. My 85 300sd would not start even on two GP cycles and so I was told on asking by my MB diesel mentor down in White Rock, to count to thirty after th GP light goes out and then the car starts normally. I tried it and it has been working for me thru' out this beastly cold snap.
Old 12-16-2009, 12:38 PM
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e300
great feedback

I just wanted to followup and say the car has been driving well with that glow light still on.
Old 12-17-2009, 08:06 AM
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The glowplugs stay on up to 45 seconds after the key is turned on or until the starter is used, whichever first. The light on the dash is just a wait "suggestion".

30 seconds is a bit long for only 17*f. 10-15 seconds should be plenty when its that warm and you shouldn't need 30 seconds until the temperatures get under 0*f. Check your valve adjustment, use a little extra ant-gel in the fuel and do an Italian Tuneup to burn the carbon out of the rings.
Old 12-17-2009, 04:47 PM
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e300
temp 56 degrees glow light out

Driving today and I noticed with the higher outside temp 56 the glow light is now turning off. Due to warmer atmospheric temperatures.
Old 12-17-2009, 06:24 PM
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09' E320
Should have nothing to do with ambient temp.....were you able to pull the code(s)?
Old 12-20-2009, 08:31 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Back to

the OP.
Kroil hands down the best gotta get it out stuff ever.
Not bad at cleaning Rifles either
www.kanolabs.com
Penetrates to 1
millionth inch spaces
anything else is child's play.

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