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Hello and how are you all, hope everyone had a happy Thanksgiving. Okay, so here is my problem. I noticed an oil leak under the engine on my car. I bought this sedan last year, and so far I have put 14k miles on it. When I bought the car, it had 48 k, I brought it into a local shop and had the oil changed. I used Ravenol oil I bought from a supplier called Blauparts. I then took it to the dealer at 50k and had the service's done and what wasn't done at the 40k mark, at least not in the computer, was serviced and brought up to date.
At 55K, took it back to the dealer and had the engine oil changed again. ( I view it as oil is cheap, engines are expensive) I couldn't get the car in exactly on time, so my 60K service was done at 62k. Well, now the engine is leaking and I took it to the dealer last night. After they looked at it today, they called me and told me the oil cooler was bad. getting some sticker shock, at what they want to repair that, told them not to do it and I would get it fixed.
So here's something I saw today when I got home. The egr valve on the passenger side is wet with oil, way high of the oil cooler, the front of the turbo, lower half, is wet with oil, And that's the cold side too.The air intake looks pretty dirty ( with oil too) where the two filters connect the inlet of the turbo. I'm thinking, and yes part of it is wishful thinking, that it could be coming from the egr valve instead.
I had an 88 F250 pickup with the 7.3 liter Navistar engine years ago. The CDR valve failed on that engine and oil leaked all over . I washed the engine, bought a new cdr valve , installed it and no more oil leak.
Anybody else have this problem and it turn out not to be the cooler? Thanks, E350cruiser
.....zip The air intake looks pretty dirty ( with oil too) where the two filters connect the inlet of the turbo. I'm thinking, and yes part of it is wishful thinking, that it could be coming from the egr valve instead....zip
I have no comment about your EGR or oil cooler possibly leaking, but timely air filter replacement is important on these engines - it they get clogged the turbo will pull in excess amount of crankcase fumes and you will get some oily fumes along with that, which will sooner or later start leaking at the turbo inlet.
I replaced my air filters after 28,000 miles of 90%+ highway driving and was surprised how much dirt there was!
Also the orange colored seals, item 10 & 23 in the enclosed pdf drawing are critical and should be replaced as needed (maybe every second air filter replacement or so?).
Oil coolers are well known issue on those engines.
$150 part, or $20 seals, but 4-digits labor cost to get to them. Lot of videos on youtube how to confirm that. Problem is that the cooler - buried at the bottom of the valey will show leak via seeping hole on the side.
You have to fix it this way, or the other.
Consider DIY as that is not that much skill-demanding job, but will let you get familiar with your engine. Good time of motor mount replacement as well.
I bough my 320 BT with unknown records and only later found the cooler was replaced not that long before I bought the car.
Than when I bought it the intercooler hoses have been kinked to develop cracks, fuel lines had clips bend what disconnect them at freeway speeds and several other issues were introduced by dealer working on it.
DIY can avoid lot of other problems on long run.
Fresh air pipe has known problem with cracks at turbo connection as well. Servicemen will always overtight the clamp. Go figure.
Looks like your oil separator may need to be replaced. This part has been updated many times for om642 motor so if you need to replace It, make sure you're getting the latest version.
Your dealer may have put too much engine oil and oil separator will not keep up. I would start with this..
Get a new oil turbo seal and take your time to install it correctly. Make sure the O ring seal on the hard turbo pipe is not damaged. (Pipe connecting turbo with the intercooler muffler)
Chances are the oil cooler seals are shot if they haven't been done before but you never know if it's just a leak from the excess crank case oil vapours.
I was lucky to have this happen to my GL 350, 2012 MY, at 49,000 miles. It was 6 days past the warranty expiration date, but they fixed it anyway, probably seeing I was itching for a fight. The receipt showed about $500 worth of parts (primarily seals, gaskets, and fluids) and more than 20 hours of labor. This was a massive problem in the pre-2010 models, and the seals in the 2010 and later OM642 were supposed to be improved, but given the number of owners that are having oil leaks, the updated part is apparantly not fixing whatever the issue is. There is a ton of heat generated in the V of this engine, and I'm sure that contributes to the problem.
I had that problem: CDR valve failed, threw a MAF replacement code BUT I ordered the part CDR from Germany for $60 which fixed the MAF code issue but alas, I still have the oil cooler seals problem and am leaking oil. It's a 20 hour plus job with about $550 in parts.
2013 Gl350 47k miles. Got the dreaded oil
leak. Suspect it’s the oil cooler, but only because it happens to many others so frequently. Will take it in next week, have Mercedes ELW, so assume it’s fully covered. My question is;
1)since they will have extensive removal of parts to make the repair, is there anything I should consider having done at the same time as long as it’s all taken apart?
2)are the replacement seals better quality now that will not allow this to happen again? I believe I read on forum many repeat occurrences because the new seals are not much better than the original seals.
The new seals suppose to be better.
The only thing I would add at 47k are air and fuel filters. Maybe not that you need them (unless you drive in dust) but they are bear to replace.
Also check the car carefully after the job.
I bought my car with oil cooler replaced by dealer not long before the PO traded the car in and I've got it.
For quite some time I was finding damages done by mechanics doing the job. Crushed fresh air butterfly and that is $500 part, Intercooler hoses where kinked to crack-open and they retail in 3 digits, fuel line clips were bent to avoid few minutes to install them in proper way and engine dying on fast lane with cloud of fuel behind you is not much fun.
If anybody need a picture of hard to see engine parts, now I have good chance to take them.
After long hours spend in disconnecting all the sensors and pulling wire harness of the engine, my engine is finally ready to pull out, while new short-block engine is on stand ready for parts transfer.
So now I can take all the pictures you might need.
In case you'd consider engine swap like I did >>. DON'T DO IT. !
If anybody need a picture of hard to see engine parts, now I have good chance to take them......................
I would really appreciate if you have a change to show photos of the engine oil cooler location - not sure if you are removing the intake manifold or not?
Also, the location where to install the engine coolant heater?
Here they are. Picture of oil cooler on short block and then on engine with fuel lanes and electrical already removed. I'll be pulling the engine out today and then work on transferring the engine top parts, but not only intake manifold needs to go out, but turbo is bear to remove.
How did you remove the turbo copper bolts? What combo of extension(s)? I have yet to find a combinations that does not require me to stand on the motor..
I pulled out the engine and finally can see the bolts that holds the turbo on back side.
So for the record, turbo holds to pedestal via 2 big bolts with TORX heads.
Than on the back the pipes hold it from removal. When I had the engine in the car, I could not even see those bolts, so I guess chsu remarks would indicate that set of long extensions and getting it from under the car, along transmission is only possibility to get to them.
It is not my concern with engine removal, so I leave that point open how to do it, but here are the pictures what bolts we are talking about.
view of the turbo with back bolts invisible at the firewall.
back view with 1 bolt on upper flange and 2 bolts on lower flange that needs to be removed
Good part, even the car come from Tennessee, 10 years/180k miles and no corrosion. Even the muffler bolts I had to break loose with wrench, but than was unscrewing them with fingers, what working in hard to reach areas was great help.
Couple more pictures of turbo showing the mounts. Would be interested to see how mechanics remove turbo from the car, as I - having engine out still had hard time to figure out the puzzle.
So here is how I finally removed the turbo with attached V-pipe from the engine. You can't detach the V-pipe from the turbo before you come to this stage, as the connection has bolts coming from both sides.
Hope somebody can use it in case they go for oil cooler replacement.
Hello and how are you all, hope everyone had a happy Thanksgiving. Okay, so here is my problem. I noticed an oil leak under the engine on my car. I bought this sedan last year, and so far I have put 14k miles on it. When I bought the car, it had 48 k, I brought it into a local shop and had the oil changed. I used Ravenol oil I bought from a supplier called Blauparts. I then took it to the dealer at 50k and had the service's done and what wasn't done at the 40k mark, at least not in the computer, was serviced and brought up to date.
At 55K, took it back to the dealer and had the engine oil changed again. ( I view it as oil is cheap, engines are expensive) I couldn't get the car in exactly on time, so my 60K service was done at 62k. Well, now the engine is leaking and I took it to the dealer last night. After they looked at it today, they called me and told me the oil cooler was bad. getting some sticker shock, at what they want to repair that, told them not to do it and I would get it fixed.
So here's something I saw today when I got home. The egr valve on the passenger side is wet with oil, way high of the oil cooler, the front of the turbo, lower half, is wet with oil, And that's the cold side too.The air intake looks pretty dirty ( with oil too) where the two filters connect the inlet of the turbo. I'm thinking, and yes part of it is wishful thinking, that it could be coming from the egr valve instead.
I had an 88 F250 pickup with the 7.3 liter Navistar engine years ago. The CDR valve failed on that engine and oil leaked all over . I washed the engine, bought a new cdr valve , installed it and no more oil leak.
Anybody else have this problem and it turn out not to be the cooler? Thanks, E350cruiser
Good morning, were you ever able to figure out what was causing the oil residue on your turbo and EGR valve? I have the same exact issue with my 2008 r320 cdi. when I'm accelerating, under modest acceleration the vehicle feels as if it coughs/cuts out a little bit but other than that the engine runs fine. However I'm noticing a pretty substantial oil leak as a result of that oil spray. I replaced the oil cooler seals (updated purple), brand new intake manifolds, brand new turbocharger, and swirl flap motor. Everything seems to check out with the oil cooler seals because they are brand new and the updated variety. I am just stumped as to why I am getting oil coating on the driver side of the turbocharger and the EGR valve area. the air charge hose to the turbocharger seemed like a likely candidate, but because you have the wiring harness behind it, it does not look like there's a direct line of sight to where the oil residue is a mounting. Also I used a stethoscope and did not hear any air leak at that point. The orange turbo connection seal and the cool air intake assembly are brand new OEM. Any help would be greatly appreciated
11-28-2017, 08:29 PM
