E320 CDI W211 2005 - Won’t Start
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Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Greenville, SC
2006 E320 CDI W211
E320 CDI W211 2005 - Won’t Start
Looking for some first-hand knowledge to help diagnose my issue on my 2005 DIESEL E320 CDI. The basic issue:
The day that this happened, I ran the car on the accessory position for a long time, because I was replacing my washer nozzles, and was flushing the lines to get the garbage out. I could hear a pump running on the passenger side during this whole time. I caught most of the water coming out from the hose on the driver’s side into a bucket, but some water may have gotten on the firewall area. I don’t think all this is related, but I mention because it was the last thing I touched before the issues.
Any ideas are appreciated.
- Car cranks well, but won’t fire. Won’t even sputter. The starter then times out, meaning it stops trying after cranking a bit
- I turn the key off, then try again, and now, it does absolutely nothing. No cranking, no firing, etc.
- After 5 or 6 tries at turning the key, over a few minutes, it cranks, and fires. It might run for 2 or 3 second (completely normally), then dies.
- After a few more tries, of sometimes doing nothing, or maybe cranking, it runs.
- Once running, it runs perfectly. Upon on the freeway, triple digits are no problem. Good power, high RPMs, etc.
- I shut it off, and it might start, but might not.
- This morning, first time I tried, it did nothing at all. After a few tries, it cranked, ran 2 or 3 seconds and died. A few more tries, and it started up and I drove it to work 12 miles.
- Ran an Innova 3040 OBD2 scanner (not Star), and it showed no codes. It showed the running fuel pressure at about 5000 to 11,000 psi (depending on RPM). I don’t know if this scanner can read all of the CDI codes, however.
- If I turn it off, the fuse pressure eventually gets to about 90 psi.
- If I cycle the key to accessory position a few times, the fuel pressure doesn’t seem to go up from 90 psi, but sometimes the car will start and runs fine.
The day that this happened, I ran the car on the accessory position for a long time, because I was replacing my washer nozzles, and was flushing the lines to get the garbage out. I could hear a pump running on the passenger side during this whole time. I caught most of the water coming out from the hose on the driver’s side into a bucket, but some water may have gotten on the firewall area. I don’t think all this is related, but I mention because it was the last thing I touched before the issues.
Any ideas are appreciated.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
The only way for common rail diesel not to start is fuel, as even with dead GP it should fire in few seconds.
-Check priming pressure from electric pump.
-the cranking pressure should be over 4000 psi, so if priming pump works and with new filter it stays low- pressure regulator would be next to check.
-Check priming pressure from electric pump.
-the cranking pressure should be over 4000 psi, so if priming pump works and with new filter it stays low- pressure regulator would be next to check.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 3
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From: Greenville, SC
2006 E320 CDI W211
OBD2 shows pressure between 5,000 (at idle) and 11,000 PSI (when high RPM). Drops to about 94 psi after turning off. Checked fuel delivery at input to filter by cycling with key, and filled an 8 oz. container in less than 5 seconds. So, new filter, good flow and good pressure at the injector pump (at least when running).
Next I will check the lift pump to see if it is a priming issue. The pump behind the passenger seat seems to run on and on when attempting to start. Perhaps it has some small air leak preventing it from priming, but once it primes it does okay??
Next I will check the lift pump to see if it is a priming issue. The pump behind the passenger seat seems to run on and on when attempting to start. Perhaps it has some small air leak preventing it from priming, but once it primes it does okay??
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 3
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From: Greenville, SC
2006 E320 CDI W211
I’ll check this when I get back to the car next week. But pretty sure I have turned the key dozens of times in a row without it starting (or even turning over). I would assume, however, that the glow plug module failure would throw a code if bad. It has had a module replaced in the past, after the check engine light, and several glow plug codes. Didn’t affect starting that time. Are you saying that the engine absolutely won’t start with a bad glow plug module, even though the engine is very hot, and it is 90 degrees out? Last time it threw the bad module code, it started fine, no codes at all now.
Regarding the crank sensor, would a bad crank sensor still allow it to run perfectly fine when it does finally start? I would assume the sensor is involved in more than starting. I see the correct RPM on the scanner. Is RPM coming from the crank sensor? Is there a sensor test that I could do (resistance, voltage, etc).
I’ll try a few things when I get back, but as I recall, the fuel pressure gets up to about 600 psi when cranking, 5000-11000 once running.
Regarding the crank sensor, would a bad crank sensor still allow it to run perfectly fine when it does finally start? I would assume the sensor is involved in more than starting. I see the correct RPM on the scanner. Is RPM coming from the crank sensor? Is there a sensor test that I could do (resistance, voltage, etc).
I’ll try a few things when I get back, but as I recall, the fuel pressure gets up to about 600 psi when cranking, 5000-11000 once running.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I had the same experience with bad GP modules as you did.
My 320 Bluetec would start after 3 seconds in 50's F mornings.
Years ago I had 1980 VW diesel with old fashioned engine, where you had to wait long seconds before start. When fuse blow, the engine would still start in 60's F, but took couple of minutes to crank it.
And CEL with newer engines is normal.
Coming to CPS, they usually fail hot, while still working cold. Not your symptoms, but on other hand bad CPS is one of very few malfunction that will not trigger code.
Considering low price, I would go ahead and get new one. Nothing wrong to keep old one for spare if that turns wrong call.
My 320 Bluetec would start after 3 seconds in 50's F mornings.
Years ago I had 1980 VW diesel with old fashioned engine, where you had to wait long seconds before start. When fuse blow, the engine would still start in 60's F, but took couple of minutes to crank it.
And CEL with newer engines is normal.
Coming to CPS, they usually fail hot, while still working cold. Not your symptoms, but on other hand bad CPS is one of very few malfunction that will not trigger code.
Considering low price, I would go ahead and get new one. Nothing wrong to keep old one for spare if that turns wrong call.
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