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How do I take these out? Some are stuck open, but putting any force on the top leaver brakes the leaver. On top of that, those white lock in tabs brake easily as well. Now I see why dealers replaces them for new when doing the oil cooler seals.
My plan is to take them out for good ...
How do I take these out? Some are stuck open, but putting any force on the top leaver brakes the leaver. On top of that, those white lock in tabs brake easily as well. Now I see why dealers replaces them for new when doing the oil cooler seals.
My plan is to take them out for good ...
FWIW.......
The swirl valves S/S are not movable with out perment destruction.
I have removed all of them from a pair of manifolds to do a permenent delete, the S/S is spot welded to the shaft during assembly
Oil cooler seals. So to get them out, what do I cut to free them? What tools did you use to get them out?
I removed the plastic linkage broke it off.
Removed S/S valve by holding valve not the shaft with a small long nose vise grip, then clasp the shaft end with another video grip and twist / rotate the shaft, the S/S valve spot welds will break off.
Then remove white lock if you have not already, removed the shaft by pulling out shaft assembly as one piece, will come out with all the plastic bushings
Then weld up the holes in manifold
FWIW..... Port match the new gasket to the intake manifold, this will give you much better air flow.
You can try the "miracle in the can" by Liqui Molly and reports say it works. You will find youtube video on the procedure.
But seems nobody sells it in USA. I placed order on German ebay and the seller PM me that he has problem with shipping.
At this point I am considering using my family in Poland for transfer, but my engines run good, so I don't panic.
This one is actually sold in USA but with different part number. In Germany it's LM5168 but here it's LM20208. FCPEuro has the listing but is currently OOS. Looks like Napa has it as well.
Originally Posted by kajtek1
You can try the "miracle in the can" by Liqui Molly and reports say it works. You will find youtube video on the procedure.
But seems nobody sells it in USA. I placed order on German ebay and the seller PM me that he has problem with shipping.
At this point I am considering using my family in Poland for transfer, but my engines run good, so I don't panic.
This one is actually sold in USA but with different part number. In Germany it's LM5168 but here it's LM20208. FCPEuro has the listing but is currently OOS. Looks like Napa has it as well.
You post the info without checking if its is correct.
None of those places have the cleaner available.
Tell me if this is the same item as the one in your picture. If not let me know what's the difference. I placed an order on Napaonline for store pickup and the store just called me this afternoon saying it's estimated to arrive on Saturday. I will post when I receive it.
Last edited by geniushanbiao; 04-01-2020 at 08:21 PM.
Thanks Kajtek. I should have been more specific. While I had the intake manifolds out for cleaning, I decided to delete the air plates. Looking at how these plates are secured, over time due to buildup of carbon and oil, there is a chance these air plates can come loose and cause serious engine damage.
I've looked over reports of many owners doing the delete. All reports are: no adverse effects. I'm only concern how will the motor operate at startup with extremely low ambient temperatures which we sometimes get in my area of Ontario.
Thanks Kajtek. I should have been more specific. While I had the intake manifolds out for cleaning, I decided to delete the air plates. Looking at how these plates are secured, over time due to buildup of carbon and oil, there is a chance these air plates can come loose and cause serious engine damage.
I've looked over reports of many owners doing the delete. All reports are: no adverse effects. I'm only concern how will the motor operate at startup with extremely low ambient temperatures which we sometimes get in my area of Ontario.
Look around the least expensive method is a resistor on the harness end disconnected form the swirl motor. Or you can program{software delete]
Thanks Joseph. I am aware of the 4.7kOhm resistor trick. Mercedes created these "air restrictors: aka swirl valves for a reason. It would appear that there is no adverse effects with warm ambient temperatures but i have not seen any reports how the motor runs when it's very cold.
Thanks Joseph. I am aware of the 4.7kOhm resistor trick. Mercedes created these "air restrictors: aka swirl valves for a reason. It would appear that there is no adverse effects with warm ambient temperatures but i have not seen any reports how the motor runs when it's very cold.
Swirl valves are in many engins, no just MB.
The valve are to control air flow at low rpm to meet emmission standards
FWIW.........
Example the MB 2006 six cyl the straight six, the intake manifold in the US had swirl valve. The one in the EU did not. And yes, people purchase the used ones from the EU to install in the US. On the V6 OM642 engine 2007 to 2019 the all have swirl valves
Others remove the valves and weld up the holes. Port match gaskets and port polish intake, you get better milage, better performance and no swirl valve issues.
If you really want to clean the intake you have, run then in an ultrasonic cleaner with solvent. The intakes are not designed to be taken apart and cleaned, that is way MB recommendation to change to new units.
I would remove valves, clean in USC, port and polish, delete motor, never have a swirl valve issue again.
Just curious, wouldn't plugging the ports cause restricted air flow when rpm goes higher?
Originally Posted by Joseph~
Swirl valves are in many engins, no just MB.
The valve are to control air flow at low rpm to meet emmission standards
FWIW.........
Example the MB 2006 six cyl the straight six, the intake manifold in the US had swirl valve. The one in the EU did not. And yes, people purchase the used ones from the EU to install in the US. On the V6 OM642 engine 2007 to 2019 the all have swirl valves
Others remove the valves and weld up the holes. Port match gaskets and port polish intake, you get better milage, better performance and no swirl valve issues.
If you really want to clean the intake you have, run then in an ultrasonic cleaner with solvent. The intakes are not designed to be taken apart and cleaned, that is way MB recommendation to change to new units.
I would remove valves, clean in USC, port and polish, delete motor, never have a swirl valve issue again.
Just curious, wouldn't plugging the ports cause restricted air flow when rpm goes higher?
I think he talks about plugging the holes where flapper shaft goes?
It is the gunk who plugs the intake holes.
So deleting the flaps is black tape over CEL You delete the symptoms, not touching the problem.
IMHO.
Yes, when you remove them, intake manifold will end up with holes so those have to be closed off.
the problem that causes this is EGR and excess oil vapour.
I think cleaning intake manifolds every 100k is just a reality of owning this motor.
..... SNIP.....
I think cleaning intake manifolds every 100k is just a reality of owning this motor.
FWIW......
In your world.
In mine world, physical removed DPF, ERG and swirl valves and software delete. Along with new mapping. OM642 original engine 2008 with 290,000 miles. But is is only a "band aid" .
If you are not aware, the OM642 is used as an engine for single engine aircraft. No emissions add-on, twin turbo{like the MB V8 diesel that was never sold in the US] intake changed, lower compression 15 to 1, burning kerosene {jet fuel A] produces 300hp at 2800rpm
If you like cleaning the intake manifolds ever 100,000, you are better than me.
You can't compare aircraft engines to car engines. Aircraft engine don't worry too much about emission, but reliability is the first priority. They fly in the sky where nobody is around within miles, while cars are driven in the city where people go around and breath in the air mixed with exhaust, as well as those drivers driving after. That's why we have those emission control system to protect those people around us. In my world, cleaning my engine every 100k miles for the sake of protecting people's health sounds a good practice.
Originally Posted by Joseph~
FWIW......
In your world.
In mine world, physical removed DPF, ERG and swirl valves and software delete. Along with new mapping. OM642 original engine 2008 with 290,000 miles. But is is only a "band aid" .
If you are not aware, the OM642 is used as an engine for single engine aircraft. No emissions add-on, twin turbo{like the MB V8 diesel that was never sold in the US] intake changed, lower compression 15 to 1, burning kerosene {jet fuel A] produces 300hp at 2800rpm
If you like cleaning the intake manifolds ever 100,000, you are better than me.
I'm in the same situation as the OP, whereby one of my swirl flap connecting rod arms is broken. These are near impossible to replace from what I've researched, so the only option is getting a new intake or deleting the swirl flaps altogether.
I've seen mixed reviews on deleting the swirl flaps, but as this is potentially the cheapest option for me, I'm intrigued. I've tried the resistor trick on the swirl flap motor and this did not stop the fault code from registering. Question: can the swirl flaps/servo motor be coded out of the ECU while the swirl flaps are still physically installed in the intake manifolds? I would assume one would have to find a way to lock them permanently open, but I'm sure I can sort this part.
In case anyone doesn't want to weld the holes closed.
There was no need to drill as the existing hole is perfect for a 3/8 16 tap. I used 3/8 X 1-1/4" bolts with nylon washers and sealed up the openings.
Hello and how are you all. I get the Liquimoly diesel intake decarb through Napa auto parts here in new jersey. It takes a couple of days , but they can get it at a reasonable price. I ordered it once through a Canadian auto shop and it was very expensive to have shipped to me from Canada. I swear by this it works ! last weekend I removed my EGR valve to inspect/clean. It was in really good condition. I use the liquimoly right before an oil change, spray it into the Turbo, Then take the car for a ride so it can do a regen cycle.
I would like to remove my aftercooler to see how much oil is in that, Perhaps not too bad considering the liquimoly is going through that as well. One ingrediant i noticed it a substance DoDecyl Phenol. I have never seen this in another product. perhaps thats the key chemical in it.
E350cruiser
03-24-2020, 12:10 AM
