Hello All

I have recently fixed many issues on my 2011 GL350 but I have one that I am struggling with. Which is sometimes when I am driving it seems the truck doesn't want to accelerate like there is a timing issue or a fuel injection issue, feels like something is holding it back. I have checked with my OBD2 scanner and it has no code. I need to try my Xentry to check further but OBDI Fusion usually pulls most of the codes.

I am thinking one of the sensors has or is going bad or maybe an injector is. So let me explain what I Fixed recently below. I think the long term oil leak may have caused may have damaged some sensor.

1. Bad oil leak covering the entire engine, pulleys, killing serpentine belt, and etc from Oil filter housing (did this twice the first time just the gasket to the block the 2nd time the whole unit as it was also leaking from middle gasket)
2. Replaced Windowshield it was cracked
3. Replaced Steering Rack bushings driver side was shot badly causing a fair amount of moment of rack and making clunking noises.
4. Replaced Swar Bar bushings and swaybar end links. The driver's side fell apart. The second clunking noise found after fixed the first one :-)
5. Replaced air intake tube with new Sensors as well, this piece was leaking on the turbo inlet side causing lots of issues. Damm piece was expensive
6. Replaced VCV valve (that thing was in bad shape) this was feeding oil vapors back into intake containment all of the air track. I really should install an Oil separator.
7. Replaced Fuel Filter
8. Replaced air and cabin filters
9. Changed Oil
10. Replaced Transmission Fluid and filters (actually had someone else do it for me I just redid adaptations didn't want to buy the tools to do it)
11. Had DPF baked, then blown out, and then I cleaned it twice myself with Liquid Moly DPF cleaner and Power washer off the truck once and then again with Liquid moly process on truck (didn't know I had to reset adaptations to get the stupid code to go away)
12. Replaced DPF differential pressure sensor
13. Flushed Brake fluid
14. Flushed Power steering fluid
15. Replaced Front and Rear Diff fluids
16. Replaced Transfer case fluid (highly recommended mine was already in bad shape after 40k miles on a new reman transfer case)
17. Power washed engine bay from all oil residue. And there are still some spots that aren't perfect.
18. Replaced Serpentine belt, tensioner, and pulleys (this would be the 3rd belt .. The first one feel apart and left me stranded installed an Autozone one in the parking lot, but that was already getting damaged from oil leak)
19. Had wheel alignment done
20. Lots of odds and ends.

 

Pretty interesting problem, have you solved this. I am also experiencing that as well as the occasional bucking just under very lite throttle. But if I accelerate harder no problem.
I cant believe that 175 people have looked at this post , and not one person has chimed in.

 

Without star xentry, not much you can do with diesels. But if there is no codes, I'd check to make sure your turbo air cooler feed pipes aren't leaking and actualy check for any air leaks, is intake manifold and head intake ports all gummed up with sludge, are air filters clean.... these would be my first items i would address.

 

Random no acceleration issues are almost always traced back to two prevalent issues: Boost leaks/sensor or the turbo actuator. You need to run tests in Star.

 

o2 sensor

 

No O2 sensors on a diesel.

 

there are no codes? if the car is losing power it should tell you something unless somebody already had a go at the ecm.

 

mine is diesel has 2 one upstream one down stream also make sure you have the right battery if not AGM battery all sorts of stuff happens mine had wrong battery when i bought it as soon as weather gets hot battery overheats limp mode no check light etc funny lights windows acting weird tail lights acting weird even effected the compressor. turbo actuator also failed due to not getting exactly the right volts.

 

The wrong battery did not show up in codes, well not on mine anyway otherwise my mechanic would of picked up when he did a brake service and cleared the service codse and my wee reader shows nothing either..

 

I had an air leak between the turbo outlet and the inter cooler. It caused intermittent loss of power as well. This however did not trigger any CEL.!!

 

i also did all same things with my OM642 my vehicle is not accelerating and not shifting smoothly the orignal star scanner codes was air mass flow and common rail pressure sensor it will take one month with different workshops i ve visited but no one can scan the problem by just changing rail pressure sensor vehicle is back to life.

 

Was it ever fixed? Interesting conversation, having somewhat similar issue on GL350. No codes but sometimes it hesitates to downshift and accelerate as expected. I don't thin it dies the kickdown either. Seems to be random.
Changed air filters, filled fuel additive to clean the injectors, feels better but not perfect. Has anyone figured this out? Should not a bad MAF sensor trigger any codes? I plan to replace MAF sensor but need to be sure I pinpoint the right thing. Thanks

 

Try to check if you have injector fuel leak, worn copper washers are the cause.

 

I am having similar problem on my 2009 GL 320. Randomly, I start the vehicle, and everything sounds normal but there is no power. I can floor the accelerator and the vehicle slowly accelerates. The engine is not reaching high revs. When this happens, I can stop turn off the engine and restart it and everything is fine. No codes are every triggered. I have not been able to recreate the problem while I have my star scanner with me. The vehicle has around 120k miles and runs great other than this random power loss.

 

Post #4
If you're flooring it and you're not getting the requested power the ECM is de-powering the motor/cutting fuel.

Check the hoses to and from the intercooler, looking for greasy area.
Suspect the 1st bend in the hose where it goes from downward at front of motor, turning forward. It may be cracked from oil standing inside.

If hoses are good the boost actuator (black box on side of turbo) may be going bad.
You need a scanner with actuation tests in order to diagnose actuator performance, at least until it fails completely.

 

Symptoms sound like a possible boost leak. Similar symptoms in other turbo vehicles which sometimes may or may not give CEL. You might even be able to hear the air escaping if you were to have somebody increase the RPM while you listen.

I would think that a bad MAF would throw a code if it had failed, but maybe not if it were just dirty or not reading correctly.

 

Yes, I've had this happen as you describe, on this vehicle.
I could hear an extra whistle with my window cracked a couple of inches.
With a tear/split of about 3 inches, I had a distinct whistle when accelerating, and no codes unless I really tromped on the go pedal.

The quality of the hose is nothing like as good as on a TDI, IMHO.
Designing it so hot oil puddles in that spot, is just dumb.

 

Funny you should mention TDI because that is how I recognize the feeling. I had a hose that didn’t quite fit right after installing an aftermarket intercooler. Eventually I got it sorted but the hose popped off more than one time. Also have had it happen after tinkering with Subaru WRX intercoolers. There is still a forum post from me at the TDI webpage:
https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php.../#post-1050313

 

I put the TacoTaco side mount intercooler on mine ('04 Jetta wagon).
Had to retrofit an ALH lower pipe and used some silicone from McMaster-Carr for the short boots/hoses.
It's got a mild tune on it, and yes I'm familiar with them popping off!

But the first turbo outlet hose (the hottest one) has 335k miles on it, no issues with it except the normal replacement of the o-rings, is original/OE.

 

Have you resolved the issue? As I'm having the same symptoms

 

Turned out it was the in tank fuel pump. There is a hose on top of the pump that is prone to coming off. Runs smooth as now about to do chain tensioner.

 

Yes, I was able to fix the problem. In my case the turbo actuator was going bad. I installed a new turbo from FCP Euro. The car runs great.

 

I have same problem as described above:
time to time car totaly stop accelerating. No fault on Xentry.
Turbo actuator i moving up and down, noise of engine changing during that test so its ok
From 2 days car has totaly no power all the time. Changed cranc sensor because found can help - nothing happened.
Car has totaly no power - max speed i can reach after long acceleration is 70-80km/h.
Xentry telling me nothing.

HELP!

 

The new turbo fixed my problems on my 2009 GL. My 2011 GL is starting to randomly lose power. It feels the same as 2009 GL. I think another new turbo will be in my future. I can't complain the 2011 GL is around 190k miles. Thats not bad.

 

Bartek, you must have a problem with scanner. Where there is a limp, it has to be a code.