Has anyone tried Liquimoly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush on their MB diesel engine to clean out the gunk on the cylinders? as an alternative to entire engine replacement? Should I go ahead and try it right before my next oil change? I judge that based on all the posts here oil consumption caused by cylinder rings sticking to the cylinder due to all the gunk on it. Not sure if this will work but if anyone tried it it will help. I am looking at reviews on Amazon seems legit.
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i used it once, 1 can, for my first oil change, and then also flushed with cheap oil before pouring in new oil. wanted to clean out anything since the vehicle was fairly new to me. new oil stayed clean for a bit before turning black so i assume the flush did a decent job of cleaning out the inside. should you use it im sure is as heated of a debate as oil types and oil additives, you'll find lots of back and forth arguments on the effectivenes.in your situation for oil consumption and gunk id be wary to use it, that gunk may be the only thing keeping things in, once you clean it out with the flush you may get more consumption or other problems. not speaking from experience but i recall a youtube video i saw of a guy having oil consumption issues and cleaning out with i think 2 cans of that flush, car ran great for a little bit, and then after some km he had bigger problems and the car was scrapped because he didnt want to replace the engine. whether it was due to the flush or due to something else who knows.
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What is history of oil changes on the car?
Modern oils are known as having big pack of detergents and those who drove the cars when synthetics come on the market might remember lot of warnings that new generation oils work as flush and they suppose to observe the oil after such change and do the following oil change after low mileage.
Meaning if you run on oil with high flush value, what do you expect from additional flush?
On other hand, if you are thinking about engine replacement, what do you have to loose?
Modern oils are known as having big pack of detergents and those who drove the cars when synthetics come on the market might remember lot of warnings that new generation oils work as flush and they suppose to observe the oil after such change and do the following oil change after low mileage.
Meaning if you run on oil with high flush value, what do you expect from additional flush?
On other hand, if you are thinking about engine replacement, what do you have to loose?
Quote:
Modern oils are known as having big pack of detergents and those who drove the cars when synthetics come on the market might remember lot of warnings that new generation oils work as flush and they suppose to observe the oil after such change and do the following oil change after low mileage.
Meaning if you run on oil with high flush value, what do you expect from additional flush?
On other hand, if you are thinking about engine replacement, what do you have to loose?
I am pretty much going to try the oil flush every 5,000 miles for next few months and see where it takes me, may be I will document it on youtube as well for entertainment. If it results in higher consumption or worse issues I will just swap out the engine, I am being quoted $9500 for remanufactured engine with 100,000 mile warranty and $2600 labor. At this point I have nothing to lose with current engine, may be stuff it with laundry detergent and see if helps (bad joke. but I wont really do that) I will try liquimoly flush every 5k. if it helps, it will save me $12k. I will keep you posted. I am getting my car back tomorrow with new DPF filter (old one failed after 6 months of oil burning thrown at it from the engine i assume, 6 months ago a new one was put in due to MB diesel classaction)Originally Posted by kajtek1
What is history of oil changes on the car?Modern oils are known as having big pack of detergents and those who drove the cars when synthetics come on the market might remember lot of warnings that new generation oils work as flush and they suppose to observe the oil after such change and do the following oil change after low mileage.
Meaning if you run on oil with high flush value, what do you expect from additional flush?
On other hand, if you are thinking about engine replacement, what do you have to loose?
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I used two cans of Liqui Moly Pro-line engine flush in a Volvo XC90 that had started using a quart every 1000 miles or so. It was a little more than the recommended concentration, one can for 3 liters of oil, IIRC. There was no immediate improvement noticeable, but over the next 10-15K miles I did notice a definite decrease in oil consumption. I don't have the car any more, so I don't have the specifics, but it did help.
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We still don't know the mileage on affected engine?
I drive MB diesels for decades and even some of them exceeded 200k miles, the oil consumption was never a problem on them. Having contact with some buyers of my cars, couple of them exceeded 300k miles and still no problems.
I stick with FSS recommendations for oil change.
But I am also believer in Italian tune ups and from time to time I floor it on freeway ramp.
I drive MB diesels for decades and even some of them exceeded 200k miles, the oil consumption was never a problem on them. Having contact with some buyers of my cars, couple of them exceeded 300k miles and still no problems.
I stick with FSS recommendations for oil change.
But I am also believer in Italian tune ups and from time to time I floor it on freeway ramp.
Quote:
Modern oils are known as having big pack of detergents and those who drove the cars when synthetics come on the market might remember lot of warnings that new generation oils work as flush and they suppose to observe the oil after such change and do the following oil change after low mileage.
Meaning if you run on oil with high flush value, what do you expect from additional flush?
On other hand, if you are thinking about engine replacement, what do you have to loose?
Originally Posted by kajtek1
What is history of oil changes on the car?Modern oils are known as having big pack of detergents and those who drove the cars when synthetics come on the market might remember lot of warnings that new generation oils work as flush and they suppose to observe the oil after such change and do the following oil change after low mileage.
Meaning if you run on oil with high flush value, what do you expect from additional flush?
On other hand, if you are thinking about engine replacement, what do you have to loose?
I pulled the record
oil changes were done by previous owner
8,962 miles
25,026 miles
38,045 miles
i bought it at 41,000 miles
I did oil as follows Mobil1 5w-40 was used through out
48,252 miles.
59,299 miles
72,570 miles
83,883 miles
93,706 miles
108,303 miles
118,653 miles
131,238 miles
141,870 miles
150,528 miles
160,018 miles
160,808 miles AEM modification done per MB Emissions class action settlement - new DPF installed
First time I notice excess oil consumption
168,432 miles - oil change - start oil consumption test
170,467 miles - oil consumption test ( fresh oil fill)
car failed oil consumption test ( 800 ml per 1,000 km, turbo was changed out )
186,642 miles - shop used 0w-40 for the first time in it
188,346 miles - start oil consumption test (fresh oil fill)
189,886 miles - oil consumption test (fresh oil fill) test result 700 ml per 1,000 km, nothing done as it was 100 ml from the failure
car has 197,000 miles on it today. I am picking it up with a new DPF filter and repaired two leaking fuel injectors
i am taking it for oil change where I am switching from Shop using Mobil1 to Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w-30
I will start therapy of Liqui Moly engine flush every 5,000 miles I’ll add two cans and after I’ll add Ceratec.
UPDATE: picked up the car today. NEW catalytic converter and NEW DPF....crazy stuff...covered by warranty due to MB Classaction Settlement. Doing 620 mile oil consumption test. Results next week...
Quote:
I love this feed back, thank you. After watching a ton of youtibe videos over last 30 days and reading this forum I have decided to do Liqui Moly engine flush every 5k miles plus oil change until oil consumption improves. Assuming its just some stuck cylinder rings.Originally Posted by John CC
I used two cans of Liqui Moly Pro-line engine flush in a Volvo XC90 that had started using a quart every 1000 miles or so. It was a little more than the recommended concentration, one can for 3 liters of oil, IIRC. There was no immediate improvement noticeable, but over the next 10-15K miles I did notice a definite decrease in oil consumption. I don't have the car any more, so I don't have the specifics, but it did help.
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Quote:
.........
186,642 miles - shop used 0w-40 for the first time in it
..........
car has 197,000 miles on it today. I am picking it up with a new DPF filter and repaired two leaking fuel injectors
i am taking it for oil change where I am switching from Shop using Mobil1 to Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w-30
................
UPDATE: picked up the car today. NEW catalytic converter and NEW DPF....crazy stuff...covered by warranty due to MB Classaction Settlement. Doing 620 mile oil consumption test. Results next week...
The CAT and DPF on bluetecs is single unit with different layers inside.Originally Posted by Futureal
I pulled the record.........
186,642 miles - shop used 0w-40 for the first time in it
..........
car has 197,000 miles on it today. I am picking it up with a new DPF filter and repaired two leaking fuel injectors
i am taking it for oil change where I am switching from Shop using Mobil1 to Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w-30
................
UPDATE: picked up the car today. NEW catalytic converter and NEW DPF....crazy stuff...covered by warranty due to MB Classaction Settlement. Doing 620 mile oil consumption test. Results next week...
Not trying to start another oil dispute, but I test my oils and Mobil 1 lost my faith over a decade ago due to generating high iron. Additionally the manufacturer representative dodged the question on internet chat room, what is not building confidence.
Than 0W-40 was definitely not 229.52 classification oil, when other topic on this forum proves that Bluetecs can be very sensitive to lower classification oils.
Since I start driving DEF-generation of Bluetecs 5 years ago, I am using
Motul 109471 8100 X-Clean EFE 5W30
oils and lab test proves their excelent performanceQuote:
Since I start driving DEF-generation of Bluetecs 5 years ago, I am using
I made a bookmark on this oil on Amazon. I will see how it goes with Liqui Moly and might try Motul next. Any lab results on Liqui Moly by anyone? Where do you send samples to? which company you use to do oil testing.Originally Posted by kajtek1
The CAT and DPF on bluetecs is single unit with different layers inside.Since I start driving DEF-generation of Bluetecs 5 years ago, I am using
Motul 109471 8100 X-Clean EFE 5W30
oils and lab test proves their excelent performancekajtek1
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Quote:
https://www.blackstone-labs.net/Originally Posted by Futureal
. Any lab results on Liqui Moly by anyone? Where do you send samples to? which company you use to do oil testing.
This is my test on Motul
Quick Update. While MB Dealer is trying to get a new engine from extended warranty. I am trying to experiment on this oil consuming engine of mine. I just did the Liqui Moly Pro engine flush, put in Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5W-30 Longlife oil and added Ceratec. I gained 2-3 MPG, and engine sounds smooth, faster acceleration, engine sounds less noisy I don't hear it from the cabin either anymore. I only wish I would have done this sooner. There is going to be no more Mobile 1 garbage in my engine! After 500 miles on new oil it is still clear and not black like Mobile1 usually is right after the oil change it goes to tell that Liqui Moly has better chemistry and thermal tolerance.
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Does Mobil 1 even have a 5W-40 oil that meets spec MB 229.51? (AFAIK, that's the applicable spec for your engine.)
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All OM642 engines have been transitioned to the newer MB 229.52 spec as it is better suited to deal with fuel dilution due to the higher lubricity of biodiesel that is now pouring out of every station in the US. If you are absolutely positive that the fuel you are putting in never has anything higher than B5 then you can continue to use MB 229.51 oil, but otherwise you're asking for trouble.





