Futureal

I have been going to a shop in Newport Beach CA to do regular oil changes and owner has been using Mobile 1 5w-30. After last oil change I noticed oil looks different on the dipstick (felt more "liquid" in my own noob level assessment) and the window sticker reflected it is 0w-40. i texted him and asked if its Mobil 1 0W-40 or Mobil 1 0W-40 ESP (for modern diesels with DPF filter) he responded that its the one for "modern diesels", Question, can Mobil 1 0W-40 that is not ESP, clog DPF filter on my diesel? that is if thats what was put in. I am contemplating on taking my car to a shop and just bringing my own oil such is Liqui Moly (2011) Top Tec 4200 SAE 5W-30 Longlife Motor Oil - 5 Liter bottles. To make sure right oil is used. Anyone used Liqui Moly on their GL350?

John CC

What's important is that it meets the appropriate spec for your car, which is either 229.51 or 229.52. If the former, you can use either. 0W-40 oils that meet either spec are not common. M1 ESP 0W-40 meets the 229.51 spec but apparently not the .52 spec.

kajtek1

https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/
Check the site and make sure you have the approved oils in your engine.
Read the long thread how several OM642 engines seized when non-approved oils turned into gelatin.
Mobil 1 was dropped from approved list few years back and come back with some of its variations. I tested M1 years ago and it come with high iron, so I dropped the brand. Hopefully new formula is better, but don't hesitate to spend $30 on oil tests.

Mawk1

"Best oil" is sooo subjective. We could argue for days, and some of us have! LOL My advice is to go with the cheapest 229.52 MB spec oil you can readily source because deciding between them is splitting hairs really. Right now, that's this oil in this quantity:



It's far and away the cheapest 229.52 oil available in north America. Never forget, however, that the "best oil" is the oil that actually gets changed every 10-12K miles (or less if you're OCD). Interval is king. Oil weight is queen. MB approval is prince.

Etienne Lau

Best Oil? Such a loaded question. There are plenty of oil threads here and all over the internet. As @Mawk1 said, get the cheapest 229.51 or 229.52 oil you can get your hands on. Should you use 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40, etc....that depends on where and how you drive.

But BEST? What's BEST for you?

John CC

There's not much choice of weights if you want 229.52, and not much more for 229.51. 5W-30 is the most common by far.

Etienne Lau

@John CC I have been using 229.51 at 5W-40, but I agree 229.52 is pretty much only 5W-30

MBspdfrk

Amsoil.

Futureal

You recommend Amsoil 5W-30 or 15W-40

Etienne Lau

Look here for what oil you can use:
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevoo...229.52_en.html

Amsoil is not a 229.52 oil and only 229.51 oil.

And 229.51 Amsoil is only listed as a 5W-40 oil.

MBspdfrk

I use the 5-30

olesouthernboy

I have been running Rotella T6 5w-40 for the last 80k with a Mann ProVent 200. No ash in the AEM replaced DPF. Diesel engines need diesel oil. 177k miles on the SUV.

kiroCLK

I have good experience with Rotella T6 in different vehicles. I really like this oil.
T6 is not 229.52 or 229.51 oil. Can you comment on this. I will gladly use it , if in reality it covers the 229.52 requirements.

kajtek1

I used T6 in older diesels as well, but reading how many OM642 turned wrong oils into gelatin and seized in the results, I am not taking my chances.
Glad somebody else did, so keep us posted. Any lab tests?

olesouthernboy

I have been a T6 fan for many many years with nothing but wonderful results. I run it in anything with a crankcase; 2001 BMW Z3 3L, 2002 ML320 with almost 300k of which the last 50k has been towing all kinds of stuff and normally WOT on the interstate, Volvo SI6 (x2 vehicles) 1995 E300D 398k miles, Kawasaki FJ180 lawnmower (LOL). The only thing I did not run it in was my wife’s GL450 and we just ditched it due to cylinder scoring. That I ran Mobil 0w-40 European oil, might should have used T6 in it too.

Just my preference however, using the ProVent 200, the car is showing 0% ash in the AEM replaced DPF and that’s the big worry (ash buildup). Time will tell but at 177k and No discernible oil consumption. Never ran a UOA to see what’s going on in the engine but I will if it will help others make their decision on oils. If the engine isn’t consuming oil ash can’t build up in the DPF. I care more about using a true diesel oil in a Diesel engine, the rest I’ll figure out as it comes up.

I am going to have my mechanic check timing chain wear in the next 2-6 weeks, whenever he can schedule it. That should tell us more about things. The chain was replaced about 20k miles before I bought the car so it has a tick over 100k on the chain now. If there is little to no wear & no ash buildup I’m making the right oil decision whether people agree with it or not.

Time will tell.

olesouthernboy

I have removed the inspection pan several times just “to check”, so much do that I cut a gasket for the pan stead of using the “sealer” that the factory uses. Every time I take off the cover it’s clean as a whistle. I probably take it off to have a look every 30k miles.

Now, I run 5k mile OCI’s and drive it 35k a year on the interstate 85% of the time. I keep a scanner in the car and am quite religious about not interrupting a regen even if I have to ride around for 10 extra minutes. In my opinion MB did us an injustice by NOT including some sort of indicator when it is in regen. I’m sure I’m one of the very few idiots driving around with a scanner watching live data to make sure I don’t short cycle a regen. I wish there was a way to add an indicator for regens.

kajtek1

Newer vehicles do have regeneration indicator and DEF level gauge as well, at least in Sprinters.
My perception is that 90% of Bluetec owners drive them without any monitoring and don't experience any troubles.
It takes 3 aborted regenerations in the row to pass the sot level for self-regeneration, so there is big margin for error.
I have only 1 ScanGauge for 3 Bluetecs, so they don't always get monitoring. Now having extended warranty I worry even less.
Read that ScanGauge III is way better than II. Not only more gauges available, but you can set individual alarms.
The new gauge is on my Christmas Gift list I am sending to my sons.
Can't justify spending $300 on another scanner, when I have already 7 of them.