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I bought a 2013 GL350 18 months ago and really love the vehicle. At 165,000 miles the engine died while driving, I was able to restart it a couple times but only got a rough idle then it would die again. Finally it would not crank over. The engine will turn with a wrench on the crank shaft part way around, not sure what is stopping it when it reaches a certain point. I was quoted $30k for a new engine - installed. After sleeping on I have decided to pull the engine myself and see if it is in shape to be rebuilt. I am currently stuck trying to find access to the flexplate so that I can fully disconnect the engine from the transmission. It looks like in older models there is a rubber plug to remove and access the bolts, that plug is not there in the 2013. Does anyone know how or where I can access the flex plate bolts to start separating the engine from the transmission?
What flexplate?
You pull the engine with transmission attached and harness on it and then worry about taking it apart.
Did you check the oil on dipstick? Read the long topic about engines, who seized due improper oil turning into gelatin.
What flexplate?
You pull the engine with transmission attached and harness on it and then worry about taking it apart.
Did you check the oil on dipstick? Read the long topic about engines, who seized due improper oil turning into gelatin.
I don't have a lift so pulling the engine and the transmission out the bottom would be very difficult. My intention is to pull the engine out the top thus the need to separate from the transmission. Does this vehicle not use a flexplate between the engine and transmission? If not then how are they connected?
I have read all about the oil turning to pudding and assume that is the cause of my problems, I made sure to buy only Mercedes oil because I was sure it would be best for the engine. Makes me feel like an idiot. Yes there is oil on the dipstick and the oil had been changed about 5k miles before seizing up. I made a quick maneuver about 30 seconds before the engine died and assume that it sucked up a glob of oil that plugged up the works.
Getting engine hoist should not be a problem in metro areas. I have 1 standing in my storage if you are around Las Vegas.
Pulling engine with transmission attached is always the easiest way to do it and I did not even have to drain AC for that.
The engine flywheel bolts to transmission converter.
Modern flywheel is also timing wheel, so require some extra attention.
Getting engine hoist should not be a problem in metro areas. I have 1 standing in my storage if you are around Las Vegas.
Pulling engine with transmission attached is always the easiest way to do it and I did not even have to drain AC for that.
The engine flywheel bolts to transmission converter.
Modern flywheel is also timing wheel, so require some extra attention.
I have heard that described as a flexplate.
I have an engine hoist I don't have a car lift which is what I would use to drop the engine and transmission out the bottom. You used an engine hoist to lift the engine and transmission up and out through the hood? If not and you dropped them down through the bottom how did you get the body raised up?
Flywheel = heavy, thick disk used as a friction surface for the clutch to interface with on a manual transmission.
Flexplate = not as heavy disk used to bolt to the torque converter in an automatic transmission and give the starter some mechanical advantage.
I found it pretty straightforward to get the engine out and back in through the top while leaving the tranny bolted to the car. The biggest problem I had was that the reach on my hoist (the standard Hammer Store special) was a little too short. The hydraulic cylinder pushed up against the peak in the bumper cover. Raising the car a little bit gave me an extra inch or two since it allowed the valve mechanism to slide under the cover. Mine's a 2012, though, so maybe there's some significant difference in the chassis.
Using a random 2013 VIN I found in a for sale ad, I looked it up in WIS using and according to that, there is a plug on the transmission bellhousing. Or at least something they call a "cover". The only instruction is to remove it, so I assume it should be straightforward?
Oddly, for the 2013 it is saying that you need to bring the front axle carrier out with the engine?
This is a picture looking forward at the bell housing. There is a small (1.25”) hole but no rubber cover like the picture shows in WIS. Is that image for a 2012 or 2013? I have ordered a drive with WIS but won’t get it for a week.
Sorry, I see you entered vin from 2013. Guess mine is different, I’m sure there is a way I just don’t see it yet.
I am unable to make a complete revolution of the engine going clockwise so have turned the opposite direction, hopefully I’m not doing additional damage.
Hmm. I had just skipped down to getting the engine and transmission separated. Going back and reading through all the steps, though, step 50 is "Lower engine transmission unit with front axle carrier". I haven't seen an x166 to know why they want it to come out the bottom instead of pulling it from the top, but I can tell you that WIS has two different chapters for the x164 engine removal - one out the top and one with the axle carrier out the bottom.
That inspection hole looks like what they're talking about, but you're right: it looks too far back to be able to get to the torque converter bolts. If you're taking the motor apart anyway, I wouldn't worry too much about turning it backwards. There's an outside chance that it would jump time, but you'll be re-timing it anyway.
Don't think forklift is the best tool here.
Removing the engine require very small adjustments, while tilting the engine in the process. This is going to be hard with forklift.
What's your problem with getting proper engine hoist? When I needed it couple years ago, very fast I found used ones on craigslist and actually got a choice to get oversized one for not much more, than $100.
Liked it so much, that never resell it as it works as post/tree removal as well.
Yes that cover is to access the hex drain plug for the torque converter, for those fastidious people who believe in draining ALL the ATF when do the trans service.
Thanks! I really need to use something that isn't an older GoPro for that kind of work, but it just sort of.. well.. happened. I did, however, go through the top for the engine removal and re-insertion. Getting it out was a little easier than putting it back because I had already torn the heads off in situ before I took the block out. I wanted to see if the block was worth saving before finally making a decision to fix or part-out.
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