Hello,
2014 E250 has done 130,000 miles. At last service i was quoted:
- $333 for new front brake pads (in the end i did these myself and replaced rotors at the same time)
- $1,031 to fix engine oil leak detected at throttle actuator - dripping oil onto engine mount
- $1,566 to replace engine and transmission mounts

I don't fancy doing the mounts myself, and don't want to get them done until the oil leak has been fixed. I am wondering whether i might be creating further problems by waiting, saving up my pennies and having a look at the leak myself rather than take it back and get this sorted straight away?

 

Dont know too much but if its from the throttle actuator not sure how it could be engine oil leak, does engine oil go down at all or do you notice fresh oil anywhere? The throttle body could leak soot/carbon deposits and any oil that gets into the EGR system so there is that. Looked at couple of pics as I have same vehicle/engine and looks like that is kind of pain to replace plus not sure if it requires calibration by Xentry. Replacing engine mounts on these models isnt that bad from what I hear (relatively speaking) plus if they are already down to the throttle actuator they are right above the engine mount on that side.

Is this dealer or indy?

If your not getting codes for the throttle actuator its probably replace some gaskets and give it and related parts some good cleaning to get rid of all the stuff built up in them. Joys of EGR systems.

Sure others will chime in.

 

Wanted to add when I say replace some seals/gaskets its not necessarily that straight forward. Ya will have to read up on it. From what little Ive read the actuator is computer controlled so reference and calibration are key usually. Kind of like the vane actuator on my trucks turbo, simple part to replace but its a process for the actual calibration if ya want it to operate properly.

 

Thanks Quint22. It's an Indy that specialise in MB. I don't have a lot of faith in my local dealer since they replaced two of my run-flat tyres with non run-flats. I have a feeling i will be going back to the Indy to get this done, i guess i'm trying to figure out how urgent it is. Am i likely to incur any damage to the engine by waiting to replace the mounts?

 

Why do you need to replace the engine AND transmission mounts? What symptoms do you have with the car?

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Inspection results were 'Engine mounts weak, vibration noted when vehicle is sitting in gear (left side mount saturated in oil due to leak)' and 'Engine oil leaking from throttle actuator, dripping down side of engine'.

 

Assuming its coming from the actuator gotta check above to make sure then its blow by and egr stuff thats leaking out of the top or bottom gasket on the actuator. If thats the case inter cooler probably has a bunch in it as well. Assuming your actuator is good then ya just need to replace those gaskets but more importantly figure out if its getting excessive egr/blowby. I am not familiar yet with the benz ccv/pcv valve filter or whatever they have. My truck has a big ol ccv filter thats changed every 60k miles, looks like benz uses a small valve of sorts. Not saying its the case but if this valve is not working properly then it could be venting excess oil and its finding the easiest way out.

Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.

130k miles is definetaly in the area of replacing trans and motor mounts.

 

W212 MM do have good wear indicators.
When you look on the top of them, they have 1/2 circle of plastic pad under the engine leg. When MM wears, the leg rest on the pad, leaving clear sign on it, what will tell you you need new MM.
I just replaced my MM this year. They were not cheap, but sounds like your shop wants about $1000 for labor.
The driver side is easy, but passenger side took removing DPF for access.
Still having lift and good HAND tools, I think it took me total of 3 hr.
I don't make $333/hr, do you?
Transmission mount last very long time, so inspect it.
When you DIY brake pads, that stain doesn't look like active oil leak on the picture?
I would wash it and recheck some time after.

 

Thanks for suggestions. I won't be able to get to the car until next w/e, but will have a look then

 

Hello: New member here. I wanted to post about changing the motor mounts on a 2014 E250 Blutec. This is a RWD vehicle and is not a 4matic. There were no Youtube videos on this particular vehicle so I wanted to post this with the hope it might help someone else. I have a twin post lift in my garage and I am a retired automotive professional. For those of you who are thinking about changing the mounts on this vehicle, I will provide some information how to do it. First, the driver side mount is easy. Use a very long 3/8" extension with a 15mm swivel socket and you can remove the top bolts on both motor mounts from the top side of the engine compartment. Jack up the car, and loosen/remove the bottom two motor mount bolts for the drivers side. Use a floor jack and jack up the engine/trans using a block of wood or similar. The engine will raise up easily and you can remove the mount from under the car. Obviously replacement is just the opposite steps. Ok now for the passenger side. This mount is a pain in the butt, no way around it. I tried to get it out from underneath but no dice. You cannot jack up the engine enough to get the mount out. I lowered the subframe until there was almost no threads left on the bolts holding it in place and that wasn't enough clearance with the engine jacked up to get the mount out. I tried to remove the catalytic converter but there is a bracket up high that you can't get to and another bracket securing two hoses. I just couldn't get the converter out. So, you have to remove the alternator and take the mount out forward. In order to get the alternator out, drain the coolant, remove the radiator hoses; small and big ones, remove the electric fan, remove the turbo boost hose. Remove the four bolts holding the alternator, (these may be easier to remove if you jack up the engine) loosen the two bolts for the bracket on the upper side of the alternator. I got to these bracket bolts through a small opening in the fender well after removing the passenger side tire. Press down on the rubber shield and use an extension with a universal swivel and E12 and I think E10 sockets. Remove the alternator and then the motor mount will come out after jacking up the engine. I will tell you this was a pain in the rear end and while it can be done without a lift, I darn sure would not want to do this on the ground. Due to not knowing about the alternator removal, I spent about 9 hours of work doing this job. I would certainly be faster the next time but this job takes a lot of time or at least it did for me. One other thing, I bought the All Data service information and it was practically no help at all.

 

Thanks for the write up. I found one video on the tube with a e250 4matic which went the way you decided not to go and he had many choice words and grumbles about the process. That is removing the dpf/cat and the shields which if I remember were the the biggest pain. I think if remembering correctly he actually cut part of it to help remove them.

 

The CAT on this engine is part of DPF body. I did deal with DPF before and with my 4-post lift replacing it become 20 minutes job.
I mentioned that above, that DPF removal is needed and took me 3 hr for final passenger side MM replacement.
But I am DIY amateur.

 

 

Can you please share a link to this video? I see E350's etc, but nothing for an E250 4matic.

Thank You!

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I was wrong, the video covered replacing the turbo. My apologies. It was a while ago I had watched it. Still entertaining video imho

 

If your reply indicate, that amateur should not have a lift, I beg you to differ.
In my previous house, I did not have big garage, so wanted, or not, the lift was out of question. Neighbor in his new house put 1 to fit additional car in tall garage, when California is limiting garage sizes.
But when I retired to Las Vegas and new house come with tall, 900 sq-ft garage, the lift was one of 1st retirement gifts to myself.
The $1900 cost could be recouped in avoiding single repair at stealer.
Since my lift can roll on casters, I also used it to lift 3000 lb garden statues.

 

Oh, no! I'm jealous! My current house doesn't even have a garage. I have to schedule all my emergencies for warm weather. We have a barn, and when we retired from the horse business I was going to convert the horse area to a garage with a lift, but one thing lead to another, and it never got done. Now I'm too old and slow to justify it.

 

I seem to have the exact same leak. Have you figured out why?
I have also found oil on the boost pipe going into the intercooler.

 

I think oil on the boost pipe is somewhat normal, I have that too. I did have what appeared to be an oil leak on my GLK250 which turned out to be the control arm bushing (liquid filled). I made a shaky video about it before I knew what the issue was:

 

This is the video for 4Matic engine mount replacement. It's abysmal! My mobile mechanic won't do it. Seems like it'd be best to swap transmisison mount, center driveshaft carrier bearing and guibos (flex discs) at the same time.