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Good morning!
I bought my 2010 ML 350 blutec from the original owner who bought it new in Alaska. Call me crazy, but I am assuming there should be a block heater already installed. I asked the original owners and they don't remember because they had a heated garage. I live in a place where it gets to -25F overnight for a month or so (many stores have block plugs in the parking lots). First question: where would a factory block heater be if it was already there? If not there, what is recommended?
(Pics if possible, I am still a newb)
Where is my block heater? - MBWorld.org Forums
Modern diesels start in very low temperatures just fine.
I still would seek block heater for -25, but only to save engine wear.
Sounds like you have OM642 engine.
You choose not to disclosure your location, but if in Canada, you might have the heater already, so you need to buy the cable.
Check this video and google for more.
Thanks for the video! Gonna go see if I can figure out where that is on the car. As to my location, it's Colorado (mountins not city), but the car is originally Alaskan.
Soooo...no block heater. Was able to locate where it would be and there is not even a hole there. Any recommendations for a heater of some form? Oil? Water? Etc.
They actually made separate blocks, one with and one without block heater port? Sounds like a expensive waste IMHO. Different engine but the cummins comes with a block heater on every engine, if you opt for the option then they install the heater cord which you can buy and do it yourself. Saves on money for the manufacturer in the long run.
Added stuff before finished replying but that is so odd. I believe there are after market heaters of various styles, bigger engines use I believe its wabesto heaters (may be off on name) but ya gotta have some space for those.
Webasto are fuel-fired heater, who are good when you have no power available, but cost is big and comes with maintenance as well.
When I needed block heater once for 20 years, I know there is huge selection of them.
Magnetic one will not work on aluminum pan, but I remember coolant heater, in the size of OE, who mounts on the hose. I think that one would work the best.
I would still double check for the heater hole. Hard to believe MB deleted it.
I would still double check for the heater hole. Hard to believe MB deleted it.
I put a camera down around the area of the lower radiator to block interface and saw that it looks very different from the pictures and videos from above. Screenshot from video below. Unless of course that is not where I should be looking!
In the video, the bolt on hose attachment seemed to be significantly larger on the inboard side than mine is. I do not yet have a way to get the skid panel off. I hope to have some ramps mid next month. Lower radiator hose to block.
Picture taken in engine bay are hard to visualize, but I think you are looking at wrong spot.
This is the picture from the thread I linked above.
The heater is between oil pan and harmonic balancer.
After talking to my mechanic, he recommended going the stick on method and he will put it on while doing the next service. I dont want to burn the oil and it gets down to -20F at night for a few weeks, currently it is 23F as a low nightly and I do not have a garage. Is there a recommended wattage for these vehicles?
What stick on you are talking about?
There are magnetic heaters, but they don't work on aluminium pan behind shields.
Factory heater is submerged in coolant, what allows for compact size and good wattage as coolant will circulate and spread the heat.
What stick on you are talking about?
There are magnetic heaters, but they don't work on aluminium pan behind shields.
Factory heater is submerged in coolant, what allows for compact size and good wattage as coolant will circulate and spread the heat.
I don't think there is much point in running any sort of heater that doesn't warm the water jacket. Starting issues with a Diesel are centered on cylinder heat. An oil pan heater won't do much for that. It's more for circulating the oil on a cold start.
I don't think there is much point in running any sort of heater that doesn't warm the water jacket. Starting issues with a Diesel are centered on cylinder heat. An oil pan heater won't do much for that. It's more for circulating the oil on a cold start.
yes, I want the oil to circulate better when it is cold. The question is, how much wattage is needed when it is -20F outside.
Curious did the mechanic not find a place to add a block heater? Are they specifically machined for that option at the factory? Seems adding a relatively pointless heater that sticks on is a way out of doing any work but thats just my thoughts. The one review said this heater didnt work well and wouldnt recommend buying it. Maybe two of them. Ofcourse its "only $60" so maybe give it a shot and see what happens.
I worked at jeffco airport for several years and was starting shift line crew for alot of that. We had to plug in the fuel trucks which were all very big, late 60s to late 80s diesels. These would be hard to start in negative temps and if didnt plug them in would take a couple hours before you could getem running. The newer early 90s (very early) diesels we got would start regardless. Find it hard to believe that a 2010 small diesel with glow plugs would be very hard to start but not familiar with that particular model.
I know my truck 6.7 cummins with the grid heater disabled and not plugged in will fire right up at near zero temps. It chugs for a bit but idles up and warms up fine. If I trusted the grid heater to not send a nut into a cylinder I would leave it operational and not have any chugging at all.
yes, I want the oil to circulate better when it is cold.
Best way is to use the right grade of oil.
The question is, how much wattage is needed when it is -20F outside.
To use that type of heater you have to stick it to a smooth, flat surface, like a stamped steel oil pan. I'm not sure what your oil pan looks like, but if you can't get a good bond to it with a lot of contact surface area, then it won't work. With a big sump and -20F temps, I'd go for the 250 watt version. Use high temp silicone sealant to get a good bond if your pan is not smooth and flat.
I still think you'd be a lot better off with a water jacket heater.
Well my truck is 650-750w, everything Ive scene for benz diesels is 400-500w. If you can find a part number for the one thats suppose to be in your vehicle maybe that would help identify the stock specs. That is stock however.
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