1986 190D 5cyl 602 thread, correct place to post?
#1
1986 190D 5cyl 602 thread, correct place to post?
Hello,
I just registered to this forum to document the repairs to my recently purchased 1986 190D. I am fairly mechanically inclined however this is my first Mercedes so any Advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
my current issues are
1. substantial diesel leak from the injection pump delivery valves - I have the o ring replacement kit and 33 point socket on order and lots prep of cleaning to do.
2. the brake lights, wiper motor and blower motor do not work - I have a fuse box rework kit on order and will evaluate the non functional components after all the fuses are replaced.
3. the rear passenger window is problematic - I will remove the door panel and troubleshoot accordingly.
4. the front headlight bezels need to be replaced - I have yet to order these.
5. body rot/rust evaluation - the jack points seem rusted, I will need to evaluate if any cutting and steel reinforcement will need to be done in these areas
6. The AC...the AC is not currently working and this will be the last on my list as I only intend this to be a windows down summer gas saving daily driver and nothing more.
Please feel free to say hello and voice any concerns/focus points you may have about my recent purchase!
I just registered to this forum to document the repairs to my recently purchased 1986 190D. I am fairly mechanically inclined however this is my first Mercedes so any Advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
my current issues are
1. substantial diesel leak from the injection pump delivery valves - I have the o ring replacement kit and 33 point socket on order and lots prep of cleaning to do.
2. the brake lights, wiper motor and blower motor do not work - I have a fuse box rework kit on order and will evaluate the non functional components after all the fuses are replaced.
3. the rear passenger window is problematic - I will remove the door panel and troubleshoot accordingly.
4. the front headlight bezels need to be replaced - I have yet to order these.
5. body rot/rust evaluation - the jack points seem rusted, I will need to evaluate if any cutting and steel reinforcement will need to be done in these areas
6. The AC...the AC is not currently working and this will be the last on my list as I only intend this to be a windows down summer gas saving daily driver and nothing more.
Please feel free to say hello and voice any concerns/focus points you may have about my recent purchase!
Last edited by Bagdad style; 05-06-2024 at 12:23 PM.
#2
the first step "driver seat"
The first thing I did was get the driver seat functional. My current fix is definitely janky however functional.
The springs on the driver side of the driver seat are broken and fairly un repairable without completely removing/disassembling the lower seats assembly.
I simply jammed a small memory foam pillow under the seat to get me by for test drives until I work out the main issues
The springs on the driver side of the driver seat are broken and fairly un repairable without completely removing/disassembling the lower seats assembly.
I simply jammed a small memory foam pillow under the seat to get me by for test drives until I work out the main issues
#3
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
This section is devoted to diesel engines troubles as the same engines can be installed in several models.
So for delivery valves topic, this is perfect spot.
As for chassis-specific issues, you might get more direct advise in model-specific section.
Either way, we will help you and let sorting it out to be done by moderators.
I'd say delivery valve leaks and stop light is top priority from the list.
So for delivery valves topic, this is perfect spot.
As for chassis-specific issues, you might get more direct advise in model-specific section.
Either way, we will help you and let sorting it out to be done by moderators.
I'd say delivery valve leaks and stop light is top priority from the list.
#4
Ok so I have began the work involved to replace the O-rings in my fuel delivery system. To create space I removed the intake manifold which created some questions regarding the EGR valve and pick up lines.
Can I delete the EGR connection to the intake manifold?
pictured Below is...
1. where the EGR connects to the valve cover (I would like to free this and vent it out into the world right off the valve cover)
2. where the EGR routes to the intake manifold (I would like to cap these off as they introduce carbon to the intake)
Can I delete the EGR connection to the intake manifold?
pictured Below is...
1. where the EGR connects to the valve cover (I would like to free this and vent it out into the world right off the valve cover)
2. where the EGR routes to the intake manifold (I would like to cap these off as they introduce carbon to the intake)
Last edited by Bagdad style; 05-15-2024 at 11:22 AM.
#5
Now that I have created space to access the filthy High pressure lines I began cleaning.
pic 1. the engine after the intake manifold has been removed ( yes I put paper towels in the holes to stop debris from getting into the engine)
pic 2. the filthy but now somewhat clean high pressure lines
pic 3. two of the five are obviously leaking
pic 1. the engine after the intake manifold has been removed ( yes I put paper towels in the holes to stop debris from getting into the engine)
pic 2. the filthy but now somewhat clean high pressure lines
pic 3. two of the five are obviously leaking
Last edited by Bagdad style; 05-15-2024 at 11:22 AM.
#6
so I believe I fixed the fuel leak. It was a bit nerve wracking doing the O-ring swap as little bits of the old O-rings may have gotten into the fuel lines. I did my best to keep everything clean but I am not a pro. I am currently waiting on my intake manifold gasket to put everything back together.
pic 1. this pic shows the PCV valve that connects to the intake manifold, I was calling it an EGR in the above post which is incorrect. I have circled in red where I will plug this valve at the intake. This model is smog exempt and all this valve is doing is allowing oil and carbon into the intake.
pic 2. I decided to paint my intake manifold, any thoughts lol
pic 1. this pic shows the PCV valve that connects to the intake manifold, I was calling it an EGR in the above post which is incorrect. I have circled in red where I will plug this valve at the intake. This model is smog exempt and all this valve is doing is allowing oil and carbon into the intake.
pic 2. I decided to paint my intake manifold, any thoughts lol
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
You can't just plug the crankcase vent. The pressure will come out somewhere, probably not somewhere cheap...
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#8
I am going to set the crankcase free and vent it out into the world to speed up climate change. This is actually already mentioned in a few posts above when I was calling it the EGR instead of the PCV
Last edited by Bagdad style; 05-21-2024 at 07:40 PM.
#10
pic 2 is my intake manifold cap solution, the blue line in pic 1 is where the intake used to connect to the crankcase. the crank case will have a mini air filter hose clamped to the hose coming off of it
Last edited by Bagdad style; 05-22-2024 at 12:14 AM.
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Venting it into the intake doesn't really do any harm and it's a lot less messy... Now, if it was really EGR things would be different.
Last edited by John CC; 05-22-2024 at 02:25 PM.
#12
this is the kinda gooey mess created by having it connect to the intake. luckily my car only has 130k miles. imagine that build up at 330k miles...
Last edited by Bagdad style; 05-22-2024 at 02:46 PM.
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Are you sure you don't have EGR? Crankcase vapors aren't normally already carbonized. How much oil does the engine use?
Last edited by John CC; 05-22-2024 at 09:29 PM.
#14
Its running now, no diesel leaks. I am moving on to fix the brake lights, I guess that post goes somewhere else on this board? I like the diesel area and would like this to be a build thread.