The front right tire is leaking about 2-4 lbs a day. Took it to a tire shop, according to the shop, based on the bubble test, the air is leaking from the inside of the rim. He said this is the first time he ever encountered such a leak.
He suggested to get a new rim. I am wondering if anybody ever encountered the same issue? Can this be fixed or a new rim is needed. Its the original 17" rim.

Thx.

one piece rim? pix plz

Supposedly the leak is on the other side of the rim.

that means CRACK or PIN hole from casting (if cast)

crack is bad and I would replace.

Have them remove tire from wheel and have it inspected by a WELD inspector as they have a little Ultrasonic tester which can check for cracks.
couple of hundred bucks for him..

or go to Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
and find a USED wheel from some junkyard in the USA.

Thanks, we found a pinhole in the rim (inside), the tire store offered a used but grade B which I assume has a damage on the rim? Not sure, they said it’s more cosmetic imperfections than integrity of the rim, but I don’t have any idea. The used one is $325+tax, new one is couple hundred more, so May be new is a better idea.
or is a pin hole fixable?

Maybe fix pin hole with some sort of sealant that will stick and not fly off as it spins.
Heck wont cost much and maybe worth it.....

I would try...

Duct Tape! nah... some sort of... Maybe 2 part Epoxy?
Maybe metal tape?
FLEX SEAL??

ooooo Door window flashing that 1/16" thick black super duper sticky stuff....
just clip a little piece and cover pin hole and use roller to roll edges...

Typar 4 in. x 75 ft. Butyl Rubber Copolmer Window and Door Flashing Roll BUTYL-001 - The Home Depot

JB Weld? Cheapest fix but will it work?
A welding shop will do it for $200 including balancing the wheel. is it safe?
Junk yard grade B $350, tire shop said only cosmetic damage not structure?
New from dealer $533+$150core which is refundable if old core returned. Best choice and most expensive.

WElding would scre me as it is some sort of aluminum alloy and aluminum is a PIA to weld and not crack ..

I like the idea of FLEX SEAL - clean it up real good rubbing alcohol as last step and then stick a flex seal patch over crack.
Save up for the new MB wheel as that is good price for any part from Dealer...

I have some three piece wheels (center, inner and outer) all separate pieces and the middle where they come together is sealed with silicone. They're ~20 years old now and still hold fine. So just a little wipe of silicone on the offending area and I'd call it good.

That Flex Tape looks interesting but it's expensive so I've yet to try it. I'm suspicious about it lasting. Maybe if it were in a place I could keep an eye on it, but I wouldn't feel comfortable if I couldn't see it. Plus, air would no doubt get under it, at pressure, then when you vent the air to change the tire it would push the tape off. At least that's how my brain see's it.

Thanks, what type of silicone did you use?

I like the Dow 100% Silicone Door & Window sealant. Whatever brand or type just be sure you get 100% silicone. I think the Dow brand says guaranteed for 50 years? And I think they mean it.
I've used it to assemble engines and do all kinds of redneck things and fixes.
I'd go with clear in this case. I'd clean the offending area with alcohol, and be sure you dry it or use compressed air on it, then rub the silicone stuff into the spot real good to get it into the hole. Plus I'd leave a thin layer over the general area. You can put pressure on it right away, if you really need to, but best to let it dry over night first.

I see this on Amazon, will this work better?

That should be fine

I had the wheel soldered two years ago and it did the trick. It was a hairline crack.

Ended up with a used one for $350.