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I am not mechanically inclined but I am trying to learn as I go with the 550. So, please be gentle.
So long story short, I was told a while ago that I would need to do some of the brakes soon. And well soon passed by, and I started hearing some brake noise. For some reason, it was in my head that it was the front brakes. They looked ok to me, so I felt no urgency... I went and took a look and I messed up. Front Driverside. Is OK, no?
Rear Driverside, uh-oh. looks like nothing left and now need rotor replaced too. Feeling not so smart.
Front Passengerside, looks OK.
Rear Passengerside, looks to be on the brink of death, but caught in time to save the rotor.
Am I right in my assessment?
Fronts are OK.
Rear driverside is wrecked, needing rotor and pad replacement.
Rear passengerside, needs new pad.
Saddened that my lack of awareness has caused those gouges in the rear driverside rotor.
Not a big deal. Buy new discs n pads, problem solved. I cant recall ever buying discs, but theyre purdy cheap so might as well. All my life Ive just sanded them with a disc or belt sander and it works fine. The front seem fine, but check all pads to be sure.
Rear driver's side rotor for sure needs to be replaced, not enough meat to turn. You may as well replace both sides. For that matter, you should probably replace the front pads while you're at it, as those will have to be replaced soon enough. Both of these are actually fairly easy DIY, plenty of YouTube content for this as well.
Check Powerstop for complete package discs and pads. They may have a Z23 Evolution drilled and grooved front and rear rotor set with no rust finish; with Z23 uprated pads that dont dust and stop better then OEM. Should Include the brake hardware too.
Probably <$500. Installed add ~$250
MB dealer will charge $$$$$ for the full set with pads
My $0.02 on front pads…do remember that there are pads on both sides of the rotor, and sometimes they do wear unevenly (inner vs outer pad). It’s more difficult to inspect the inner pads, but worth considering. You may have already done so, but for any others approaching such a task for the first time.
ANy pad sensor come on dash?
Can you remove wheel and look at caliper back side opening where sensor is on pad so you can see how much pad exists between the pad surface and the hole edge to that side?
That is where you measure pad life because once it breaks thru the sensro hole the sensor hits rotor and sets off dash light.
I'm on the fence about DIYing this, my skills are limited and so is my free time.
I'm in Canada and so far I've found powerstop Z23 at $410cdn for rears only. I'm on a budget so might have to stick with what the shop has, $325 for OEM/equivilent (smooth rotor).
Good point, I will replace rotors in a set. And will try to peek at the inside side of the fronts to check for wear, for the rears the outsides are visibly worn so no need to bother checking insides there.
No pad sensor light on dash... is that a standard feature? I have a 2010 E550 coupe.
Also, front rotors have a 1 -1.5mm lip... does that mean time to change as well?
And... should the wear and the rotor not be flat and uniform? On the front rotors, right after the drilled vents (you can notice more on the photo of the front passenger side) the outer inch or so the wear slopes inwards to the lip.
Taper on the rotor will mean replacing them. Big lip means re-surfacing the rotors but only if still within minimum thickness after surfacing them. Not sure how you measured taper if you dont have the tools and knowledge? It really sounds like you will need a professional shop evaluate the whole system (front and rear) for caliper pistons sticking, brake hardware clip, and pad taper and wear etc.
Are there competent independent MB specialists near you on Vancouver Island or nearby in Vancouver?
RE parts -----Here are some options for you on www.RockAuto,com.today.. They should ship to Canada ....not sure of the current $CN to $USD exchange rate
POWER STOP KOE6207 Stock Replacement; Includes Rotors, Ceramic Pads & Hardware Info
Front; 2-Door Coupe $168 USD
POWER STOP K5626 Z23 Evolution Sport; Includes Drilled & Slotted Rotors, Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Pads & Hardware (Instant $35 Off Manufacturer Rebate!) Info
Rear; 2-Door Coupe $ 252.79 USD
POWER STOP CRK6207 Evolution Geomet Coated Kit Info
Front; 2-Door Coupe $247.79 USD
Amazon----Power stop Z23 Evolution Sport brake pads Front 2010 E550 2 door coupe $79 USD...
If doing it yourself, i would read up on how to or check Youtube for videos /procedure before committing. Be sure to check to see if car has electronic parking brake that may need putting into service mode before starting on rears. Be good to get a list of tools for the job so you know what you'll need to purchase too.
Do you have Harbor Freight in VC for tools? What about Canadian Tire ? Are they local to you to do the install?
Just checked for you...RockAuto does ship to Canada and they can quote in $CN---- top upper left on website to change currency..
CTC also has service locations in Victoria BC on the island and they do loan a tools too
Hey, thanks for the info... some buddies recommended Rockauto to me too.
And I'm not going to attempt this DIY, I'll take it to the shop. Just looking for better value parts for the money now.
As for measuring the lip on the front rotors, it's visually apparent and my guesstimate was by touch.
I've illustrated in the rotor pic. Hope it makes sense. The short edge of the triangle shows the lip. The right line shows the uneven wear, it tapers down from near the drilled vent to the bottom of the lip.
Yah those fronts are past it and must be replaced. I would think it would be prudent to do the complete job on the rear as well
You are gonna end up ~$1000 with the parts i specc'd out and install labour , but if you take it to Mercedes Benz that will be $3000.
YMMV
let us know what u ordered and what the final total with install was.
You will like the improvement in stopping and the looks of the rust free rotors for sure :-)
Couple people I spoke to recommend the Zimmermann Akebono combo, so I went with that.
https://germanparts.ca/
just under $900 cdn
has local pick-up options, quick shipping, and won't need to deal with possible extra duties of ordering from the States.
The pads all look fine to me, and yes, the sensor should let you know when it's time. Isn't it true that the front pads do most of the braking? Also try FCP Euro which I don't think anyone recommended. I do agree with Zimmerman as I think that's who makes rotors for MB.
GL!
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by hyperion667
The pads all look fine to me, and yes, the sensor should let you know when it's time. Isn't it true that the front pads do most of the braking? Also try FCP Euro which I don't think anyone recommended. I do agree with Zimmerman as I think that's who makes rotors for MB.
GL!
Certainly applicable to OP's car but some newer MBs does most braking in the rear apparently, mainly DISTRONIC, lane keep and ESC uses the rear pads, apparently
Certainly applicable to OP's car but some newer MBs does most braking in the rear apparently, mainly DISTRONIC, lane keep and ESC uses the rear pads, apparently
ISTR, that was the case with my '15 E400 cabriolet, rear wore faster than the front.
I've always used EBC pads with my E-class, I swear by them. Brake components is NOT an area to compromise...
If the rear braked more, or as much, then the rears would be bigger. Since the fronts are larger, and wear out faster, the fronts do most of the work. At least in all the cars I've had.
I just bought a complete set f&r of Z23
The hard part is finding the motovation to do it.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by Chevota
If the rear braked more, or as much, then the rears would be bigger. Since the fronts are larger, and wear out faster, the fronts do most of the work. At least in all the cars I've had.
I just bought a complete set f&r of Z23
The hard part is finding the motovation to do it.
Ya but if you use DISTRONIC or have wheel slip often (as ESC uses rear more) The front has more stopping power yes but newer MBs seems to like to engage rear brakes first and then front if you are applying light brake pressure, only if you are applying moderate to strong braking it will then engage the front brakes. (at least that is my experience)
@CHEVOTA....you are gonna like them :-) And if you bought the full set with f/r crossdrilled/slotted rotors, they look fantastic and wont rust
@w205c43pfl you are right in that the rears do engage first, usually you can feel that in very light braking that is what 90 % of what cars do these days in heavy traffic. If you modulate with slightly harder braking, you can then feel the point where the fronts get activated. Jamming them on gets the fronts working very obviously. Try it in an empty parking lot sometime.
Brakes have been designed like that for decades with proportioning valves and smaller rear brakes. The smaller rears activate first then the larger front brakes take hold due to the fluid now being directed to the fronts
If you arent feeling much from the fronts then check for sticky front pistons on the E350/e550 series
Last edited by WRC-LVR; 08-30-2023 at 10:20 AM.
Reason: added info
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
@CHEVOTA....you are gonna like them :-) And if you bought the full set with f/r crossdrilled/slotted rotors, they look fantastic and wont rust
@w205c43pfl you are right in that the rears do engage first, usually you can feel that in very light braking that is what 90 % of what cars do these days in heavy traffic. If you modulate with slightly harder braking, you can then feel the point where the fronts get activated. Jamming them on gets the fronts working very obviously. Try it in an empty parking lot sometime.
Brakes have been designed like that for decades with proportioning valves and smaller rear brakes. The smaller rears activate first then the larger front brakes take hold due to the fluid now being directed to the fronts
If you arent feeling much from the fronts then check for sticky front pistons on the E350/e550 series
I knew it wasn't in my head, thanks for confirming.
Gad damn.....I'm sitting on 76K miles on original pads and rotors....with mm's to spare...... I don't know what all the people are doing that need new brakes so soon but damn.........crazy.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by hyperion667
Gad damn.....I'm sitting on 76K miles on original pads and rotors....with mm's to spare...... I don't know what all the people are doing that need new brakes so soon but damn.........crazy.
08-10-2023, 09:37 PM
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