Hello, what typically should be replaced at 70k miles, besides regular oil and air filter changes?

Should I replace spark plugs and ignition coils?

Thank you in advance, Vadim

 

Vadim, ignition plugs are due at 50kMi.
Coils go the distance unless they see heat damage.

Speaking of heat damage... Cam sensors are routinely found leaking oil in the engine harness. Replace + Add sacrificial "pigtails".

Your car came with an Owner Manual that shows maintenance items per mileage.

Be mindful of early OIL services:

• engine 5kMi. (not 10k.../
• transmission + diff. service

 

I would recommend replacing the serpentine belt at 12 years and 70K and yes plugs and have them check the cam sensors and run a full diagnostic.

Oil every 5K. The easiest way to remember oil is always doing it at 5-10-15-20K etc so no when did I do that last? ODO always knows

 

Trans fluid

 

Greetings.

My 2013 e350 coupe has nearly 70k miles.. and my services in the last 10K miles include

transmission and torque converter fluid flush and powerwash
bake fluid change
power steering fluid siphoned and refilled
4 Michilens
allignment
1 drag link
coolant wasn't changed...but checked
1 tire pressure moniter
2 motor mnounts
1 transmission mount
3 oil services
cabin filters.
key batteries
inflation of the unused spare tire (twice)!


and a mysterious door dent removed.

Best car Ive ever owned.

ps my rear speaker deck is toast.

Best,

Mark

 

oh.. and the top manifold gaskets were seeping oil on one side..but replaced both sides. seepage was close to the starter.

and something else was done on that visit to the mechanic...?

 

I had some caffeine today so I'll be happy to drone on about stuff I'd consider:
If the coils are oem I'm sure their internal timer is about to run out. Mine started to go right after the 50K mark. I'm certain they're designed to fail just after warranty, because it's so obvious based on their failure rate. The coil in my truck is >25 years old, makes substantially much more power and fires far more times per mile, and will likely last forever. It was made before someone thought about the coil fail scam. RockAuto had the best price for Bosch coils when I bought, and I believe yours takes the same one. Or maybe the coils have already changed? Not sure how long you've had it so I'm guessing.

I changed my plugs at the same time, which were fine, but getting the coil wires off was the biggest battle so might as well replace the plugs when you do. I paid $7.50ea for those, and again rockauto had the best $. Be wary because there are scammers selling cheap clones. Word on the street is you do not buy plugs on Amazon, or any not so well known auto parts store. Ebay is out the question. I guess it's a big problem for all the more expensive plugs. Frikkin pos scammers.

The belt was cheap, I think I paid $12? I bought Gates, or maybe Continental. My friend bought some off-brand, for reasons I'll never know, and a month later he showed me a pix of it shredded.

Then there's the belt tensioner and other pulleys, but it seems most people wait until one starts making noise before they replace that one, or the set. Fairly easy to replace imo.

I would flush and replace the coolant for sure. Cheap and easy to do. I'd be sure you flush it all out because there's some weird issue about coolant changes made about that year range and, apparently, if you mix the wrong two it can get nasty. I forget all the details but I did same these links on the subject:
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-pick...t-for-your-car
https://valvolineglobal.com/en-eur/a...about-coolants
I flushed the crap out mine and used ~75% water 25% Sierra Propylene Glycol. An unpopular choice (per others) but it's my go-to mix for decades.

I use K&N air filters, which are also an unpopular choice, and again my go-to for decades on every single car I've ever had with zero regret.

Trans fluid is not fun to change but do it if you can. Converter too, ideally. I would never trust anyone to do that work, but if do, don't fall for a trans flush which is a total scam. I know the guy that patented that flush machine, btw :o
A tranz filter kit is reasonably cheap. I think $25? Trans fluid probably $140?

When I had a '13 E350 it had, as it seems they all will, a serious issue sucking oil via the PCV. So I'd look at the throttle body. Mine was so oily it looks like someone had just dunked it oil a minute prior. I imagine the intake had a ton sloshing around inside. It was bad. I ended up installing a filter to catch it, but there's a PCV seal that leaks that's the main source of it. Like the coils, designed to fail after warranty, but it will cause much bigger problems than a coil.

For sure check for oil in the the Cam sensor/actuator dealies Cali mentioned. There are horror stories on this forum about repair costs if they leak too much for too long. Like $10000 level horror.

O2 sensors are a maybe. I would only bother replacing the widebands. Generics ones are cheap, I think I paid $25 or 30ea? I also bought the "correct" Bosch for $68ea.

I'd imagine it's on it's second set on motor mounts, and probably ready for #3?

There's always all those rubber bushings on all those suspension links that I'm sure are due.

Shocks/struts are likely about hosed? MB used to use monotube shocks, which last forever. It seems they cheaped out and use Monroe now. When I was a kid Monroe and Rancho were jokes, but they dumped big $ in marketing so that's what everyone bought.

I'd imagine your TPMS batteries died, but if oem then they're on borrowed time.

 

Chevoto,

You are an amazing asset to this forum.

carry on.