maybe joining the ranks again
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Boston, MA, USA
1981 380 SLC (R107)
maybe joining the ranks again
after missing my 1973 280, I think I'm joining the ranks of vintage Merc owners once again. On a search for a good-running 240D, 300D or 300 Turbo as a veggie candidate.
Looking at a 1983 240D manual tomorrow. Needs some work, but supposedly runs well.
Will keep you all posted if you're interested
Looking at a 1983 240D manual tomorrow. Needs some work, but supposedly runs well.
Will keep you all posted if you're interested
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 78
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From: Boston, MA, USA
1981 380 SLC (R107)
that's the plan. getting a Greasecar kit, probably the 13 gallon.
My issues with this 240D will be:
* Rust by the jack points, under doors, and rear lower 1/4 panel (which is typical) Owner says floors are solid, but we'll see.
* A/C has been cut and removed (Junk yard?)
* Instrument panel lights don't work (bulbs)
* Rear driver window doesn't work (dirty switch?)
BUT, the miles are relatively low ~140k, the mechanical components were recently done (ball joints, etc), tires are new, and the sunroof works!
Do you think it's worth $1000 or should I go for lower?
My issues with this 240D will be:
* Rust by the jack points, under doors, and rear lower 1/4 panel (which is typical) Owner says floors are solid, but we'll see.
* A/C has been cut and removed (Junk yard?)
* Instrument panel lights don't work (bulbs)
* Rear driver window doesn't work (dirty switch?)
BUT, the miles are relatively low ~140k, the mechanical components were recently done (ball joints, etc), tires are new, and the sunroof works!
Do you think it's worth $1000 or should I go for lower?
Last edited by baco99; May 7, 2008 at 06:57 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 484
Likes: 1
From: So.Flo.
MB
My issues with this 240D will be:
* Rust by the jack points, under doors, and rear lower 1/4 panel (which is typical) Owner says floors are solid, but we'll see.
* A/C has been cut and removed (Junk yard?)
* Instrument panel lights don't work (bulbs)
* Rear driver window doesn't work (dirty switch?)
BUT, the miles are relatively low ~140k, the mechanical components were recently done (ball joints, etc), tires are new, and the sunroof works!
Do you think it's worth $1000 or should I go for lower?
* Rust by the jack points, under doors, and rear lower 1/4 panel (which is typical) Owner says floors are solid, but we'll see.
* A/C has been cut and removed (Junk yard?)
* Instrument panel lights don't work (bulbs)
* Rear driver window doesn't work (dirty switch?)
BUT, the miles are relatively low ~140k, the mechanical components were recently done (ball joints, etc), tires are new, and the sunroof works!
Do you think it's worth $1000 or should I go for lower?
1) Rust by the jack points, under doors, and rear lower 1/4 panel (which is typical) ---> if those areas already have rust then be aware… it’s VERY typical but trust me, there are more than likely other rust areas SIGHT UNSEEN… LOOK under the cowls in the corner areas right above the back part of the front upper fender wheel wells, and also remove and look under the plastic panels in the right & left trunk-well coverings next to the quarter panels (don't just look at the spare tire well), and check all the drains – esp near sunroof and rear trunk areas…
2) A/C has been cut and removed –--> sounds like a project to put it all back together (vacuum and ACC issues could arise too) unless you could live without cold air during the hot summer
3) Instrument panel lights don't work –--> if not the bulbs, sometimes it’s also a bad potentiometer (the dimmer adjuster), but worst case scenario is a bad cluster since the circuit board may be permanently damaged
4) Rear driver window doesn't work –--> hopefully a dirty switch, BUT in many cases a bad window regulator is the culprit
All in all, $500-600 is likely not a bad deal BUT I wouldn't want to tackle a rust bucket for a project... rust and hidden corrosion on a unibody could spell trouble in the long haul. Good luck mate!
Last edited by thebenzbar; May 7, 2008 at 09:12 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 78
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From: Boston, MA, USA
1981 380 SLC (R107)
I drove the car today and it was fine, but there was a lot of moisture on the floors. signs that the sunroof drains are clogged and have caused the rust to slowly build in the sills. I paused to think about it, offered $800 if the car is still around by Sunday.
Alas, the car sold right after I left.
So, the search continues...
Alas, the car sold right after I left.
So, the search continues...
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 484
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From: So.Flo.
MB
That's a blessing... at least you don't have a major restoration project at the moment. Maybe you'll find a decent one soon, the most significant thing many wouldn't want is a rust-bucket-project! Many agree that some mechanical issues on a w123 are easier to tackle than rust and corrosion!
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Boston, MA, USA
1981 380 SLC (R107)
OK, I found another one I like. Cali car, in MA for 1 year.
1967 (W110) 200D sedan. tail-fin model in dark green with 4-speed manual.
The car has no structural rust. Only some minor surface rust along the rear passenger door where there is a scrape. it does need a tune, motor mounts, headliner, exhaust, front grill, window seals, and a new coat of paint. the car is in original condition. it runs fine except a bit rough at idle. i think the idle is high and the bad motor mounts aren't helping. shifting is a breeze and clutch feel is solid.
i'm thinking it'll cost about $3000 to get it to top "daily-driver" condition. the price is $2500.
again, no rust! and very little electronics to fail. simple, clean, and diesel.
thoughts?
(my other option is a 1984 300 Turbo Diesel in black with all the bells and whistles that just turned 100,000 miles, for $5500. need a window regulator and a dent taken out, but otherwise good.)
1967 (W110) 200D sedan. tail-fin model in dark green with 4-speed manual.
The car has no structural rust. Only some minor surface rust along the rear passenger door where there is a scrape. it does need a tune, motor mounts, headliner, exhaust, front grill, window seals, and a new coat of paint. the car is in original condition. it runs fine except a bit rough at idle. i think the idle is high and the bad motor mounts aren't helping. shifting is a breeze and clutch feel is solid.
i'm thinking it'll cost about $3000 to get it to top "daily-driver" condition. the price is $2500.
again, no rust! and very little electronics to fail. simple, clean, and diesel.
thoughts?
(my other option is a 1984 300 Turbo Diesel in black with all the bells and whistles that just turned 100,000 miles, for $5500. need a window regulator and a dent taken out, but otherwise good.)
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Banned
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,116
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From: Federal Heights, CO
1982 300D VNT, 1980 240D 3.0T, 1982 300TD
The 67 200D, while being a wonderful car, is painfully slow by today's standards. It would make a great weekend car but probably stressful in daily traffic.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA, USA
1981 380 SLC (R107)
It seems the 300D us gone, so I think this is the one.
