e320 cant get eng up to 80 degrees
11-28-2005, 09:09 AM
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e320 cant get eng up to 80 degrees
if I do normal local driving or highway driving the engine will stay at 40-60 degree range. even extended highway driving, it will stay at 60 degrees. the only time engine temp goes up to operating temp/80 is either idle for half an hour or get caught in heavy bumper traffic.
the air coming out of heat vents corresponds to engine temp. meaning I only get mildly warm air from the heater when the engine temp is 60 or under. when the engine temp rises to 80 I get truly hot air from the heater.
most people on this forum are struggling to keep their engines cooler. search on the forum for "engine too cold" did not bring up any matches to my problem.
1995 e320
161k
m104 6cyl
the air coming out of heat vents corresponds to engine temp. meaning I only get mildly warm air from the heater when the engine temp is 60 or under. when the engine temp rises to 80 I get truly hot air from the heater.
most people on this forum are struggling to keep their engines cooler. search on the forum for "engine too cold" did not bring up any matches to my problem.
1995 e320
161k
m104 6cyl
11-29-2005, 05:23 AM
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08 Lexus GS350 AWD. 08 Lexus RX350 AWD - wife's. 94 MBZ E320 - still have it.
The easiest way to check your thermostat: with the engine warm (5-10 minutes aftir its started) touch the top and the bottom of your radiator. If the thermostat if working right, the top is warm or even hot, while the bottom is much cooler. If both the top and the bottom about the same temperature, your thermostat is stuck open.
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11-29-2005, 06:41 PM
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1995 E320 Cabriolet
I don't think is the Thermostat. Check the condition of the engine Wire harness and the engine temp. sensor (I think it located in the front of the engine, under the black engine cover). Sensor maybe bad or you may have a short on the engine wire harness that giving you the wrong information.
12-05-2005, 02:40 PM
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IT WAS THE THERMOSTAT!
when i pulled the old one out, it came oout in 3 pcs. lucky none of them were small enough to fall in.
whole process took 20 minutes.
engine warms right up to 87 degrees and stays there.
what a pleasure!
when I moved one of the vacuum lines out of the way, it was so brittle it just broke in my hands. I can imagine how much other stuff under the hood is brittle. I have nightmares about the harness being a time bomb getting ready to go off.
when i pulled the old one out, it came oout in 3 pcs. lucky none of them were small enough to fall in.
whole process took 20 minutes.
engine warms right up to 87 degrees and stays there.
what a pleasure!
when I moved one of the vacuum lines out of the way, it was so brittle it just broke in my hands. I can imagine how much other stuff under the hood is brittle. I have nightmares about the harness being a time bomb getting ready to go off.
12-05-2005, 04:28 PM
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 108K
I worked on a job for Ford where a thermostat disintegrated during testing. It was a combination of nucleant boiling of the coolant and vacuum from the inlet side of the water pump that caused a thermostat to pound itself away into nothing. I recommend you perform the maintenance on the cooling system. Flush it all out and refill to 50% strength. Check all other vacuum lines. Replace any that are iffy.
Check the engine wiring harness. Remove the wrap and check the condition of the insulation. If it's brittle - replace the whole engine wiring harness as preventive maintenance. Don't wait for problems to happen.
Check the engine wiring harness. Remove the wrap and check the condition of the insulation. If it's brittle - replace the whole engine wiring harness as preventive maintenance. Don't wait for problems to happen.
