Accumulator: Can it be tested
#1
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99 ML 320, 97 Porsche 993 C2S, 92 300E
Accumulator: Can it be tested
I removed the accumulators because they may be the reason my suspension is not working on my 300 TE wagon. The shocks do not appear to be leaking.
Can the accumulators be tested to see if they are working? They appear to be the orginals on 1992 with 133K miles.
Can the accumulators be tested to see if they are working? They appear to be the orginals on 1992 with 133K miles.
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'93 300TE 4-Matic
Where are these accumulators located, and are they easy to get out? My car is making a cluncking noise from the back ('93TE with 60K miles). Some posts suggest the accumulators as cause for that noise.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#4
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99 ML 320, 97 Porsche 993 C2S, 92 300E
Removing the Accumulators- A few tips
The hollow hex head bolt that goes thru the banjo fitting is a 10mm hex head bolt. torque to 30Nm
The other fitting on the accumulator is 11mm. torque to 14Nm
The three bolts that hold each accumulator are 10mm. torque to 22Nm
All fasteners came off easily except 10mm hex head. To avoid stripping the head I use a 3/8" impact with suitable extension. The other one was so tight 3/8" drive impact would do nothing. I used the ½" drive impact and it came right off.
They are located under the car; once the three 10mm bolts are removed you put them up from inside the car. You remove an access panel to get them which is in front of the optional rear seat.
I have a mid rise sicissors lift so it was easy.
The hollow hex head bolt that goes thru the banjo fitting is a 10mm hex head bolt. torque to 30Nm
The other fitting on the accumulator is 11mm. torque to 14Nm
The three bolts that hold each accumulator are 10mm. torque to 22Nm
All fasteners came off easily except 10mm hex head. To avoid stripping the head I use a 3/8" impact with suitable extension. The other one was so tight 3/8" drive impact would do nothing. I used the ½" drive impact and it came right off.
They are located under the car; once the three 10mm bolts are removed you put them up from inside the car. You remove an access panel to get them which is in front of the optional rear seat.
I have a mid rise sicissors lift so it was easy.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
e320 wagon rear bounces
one of my yr 2000 e320 wagon has a bouncy rear end (we have 2) - and i'm hearing that it's due to the accumulator. how much is that to replace? i'm hearing about $500?
also, i stopped by an independent last week and he was showing me another wagon that need the "hydrolics" because it's leaking and the entire job he's quoting $1500.
i'd like to keep my car a bit longer for $500...but not really that excited about paying $1500 for it because it's nice to do, but not really required.
any thots?
also, i stopped by an independent last week and he was showing me another wagon that need the "hydrolics" because it's leaking and the entire job he's quoting $1500.
i'd like to keep my car a bit longer for $500...but not really that excited about paying $1500 for it because it's nice to do, but not really required.
any thots?
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
The accumulator test is ...
If it's not the hydraulic pump
and
it's not the rear axle level controller
and
the rear struts aren't leaking
the accumulators are bad.
This is in the W210 maintenance DVD--W124 is essentially the same
If it's not the hydraulic pump
and
it's not the rear axle level controller
and
the rear struts aren't leaking
the accumulators are bad.
This is in the W210 maintenance DVD--W124 is essentially the same
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
thx
kent - you sure know your stuff.
any idea how much to fix those items you mentioned, in terms of $ parts and hours for labor required?
thx.
any idea how much to fix those items you mentioned, in terms of $ parts and hours for labor required?
thx.
2000, ac, accumulator, accumulators, air, bad, conditioner, e320, matic, mercedes, rear, replace, suspension, test, w124, wagon
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