Possible Modifications to 1991 300ce?
#351
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300D, 500E, E420
I have my new air filter on the way and will hopefully get the rear swaybar and subframe bushings installed shortly. After that, I'm looking at the Koni Yellow + H&R Sports + new strut towers (Meyle HD? RDMtek?) I think mine are worn, there is some cracking in the rubber. I'll post photos tomorrow.
FYI, the RDM TEK adjustable front strut mounts are almost sold out, and there may never be another production run. See post #2 at this thread:
http://500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6713
I'd put the money into a limited-slip diff - this really makes a big difference. But you need to decide on a gear ratio first, then build the LSD. Personally, I'd keep the ratio stock at 3.06 and pop in a factory LSD carrier.
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
#352
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That is correct. All 124's have these, but the length & firmness varies. If they are original, they're usually shot and need replacement anyway. The stock 1990 300CE specifies one of the 83mm versions with standard suspension, or the 75mm with Sportline suspension. In general, if you are lowering the car, go with the 75mm stop buffer.
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
#353
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For the rear shocks, the stop buffer is built-in to the shock and is not replaceable separately (or to be more specific, you cannot buy the rear shock stop buffer separately; and yes it's a totally different size than the fronts). New rear shocks come with new stop buffers pre-installed, so you don't need to worry about it as much in the rear.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#354
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They are only for the front struts - one each, so you need two total.
For the rear shocks, the stop buffer is built-in to the shock and is not replaceable separately (or to be more specific, you cannot buy the rear shock stop buffer separately; and yes it's a totally different size than the fronts). New rear shocks come with new stop buffers pre-installed, so you don't need to worry about it as much in the rear.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
For the rear shocks, the stop buffer is built-in to the shock and is not replaceable separately (or to be more specific, you cannot buy the rear shock stop buffer separately; and yes it's a totally different size than the fronts). New rear shocks come with new stop buffers pre-installed, so you don't need to worry about it as much in the rear.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
#355
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Brett
Just don't want you spending hard to come by bucks and not get much result from it....
There has been a great deal of sophistication in the control of modern engines, but the principal of the internal combustion engine is as it was when invented.
You don't like how the center of the cam cover looks...
So remove it and underneath you'll find your spark plugs...
Remove the plugs, noting the cylinders they were in..
Learn to "read" the plugs as they are the one thing that doesn't lie about the condition of the engine and it's tune.
Post what you see and I'll help you to "read' them...
While the cover is off, sand it down and paint it with a good quality engine paint...
This alone will give you a bit of "bling' and a whole lot of knowledge about your motor !!!
You're doing okay..not as easy as it was when I was young...
Carbs and distributors allow a great tune and ability to increase performance with minimal cost..
ECU's with EFI not so easy..![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Ed a.
Just don't want you spending hard to come by bucks and not get much result from it....
There has been a great deal of sophistication in the control of modern engines, but the principal of the internal combustion engine is as it was when invented.
You don't like how the center of the cam cover looks...
So remove it and underneath you'll find your spark plugs...
Remove the plugs, noting the cylinders they were in..
Learn to "read" the plugs as they are the one thing that doesn't lie about the condition of the engine and it's tune.
Post what you see and I'll help you to "read' them...
While the cover is off, sand it down and paint it with a good quality engine paint...
This alone will give you a bit of "bling' and a whole lot of knowledge about your motor !!!
You're doing okay..not as easy as it was when I was young...
Carbs and distributors allow a great tune and ability to increase performance with minimal cost..
ECU's with EFI not so easy..
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Ed a.
I'm going to take a look in there today hopefully so long as I don't get sidetracked. That black plastic piece with Mercedes Benz on the top of the engine is called what? I've been looking in the EPC and have not found it yet. I assume it should be a cheap part, or at least I hope so.
I think it has been quite a while (3-5 years) since my plugs have been changed and they might be due by now. If I am not mistaken, my car is running and has been running on a very lean mix.
I was told by my dad that since I have a distributor I can easily advance the engine timing by turning something? Is this true? Should I even mess with this or not?
#356
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A nice ceramic coat like Jet-Hot or Swaintech is great, but on a budget, it's pretty far down the priority list. And as RBYCC said, the power gain is roughly zero. I'd either do the brush-on stuff, or just get a rattle can of exhaust paint from the local McParts. Anything will look better than the existing rusted surface.
If there is cracking on the rubber mounts, they're probably due for replacement. I have Meyle HD mounts on my '87 with KONI yellows and OE Sportline springs. The RDM TEK mounts are really sweet but IMO they are way overkill for street use... they're more of a track/race item. Street cars usually don't need the additional camber adjustment.
FYI, the RDM TEK adjustable front strut mounts are almost sold out, and there may never be another production run. See post #2 at this thread:
http://500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6713
Be careful with your choice of rear axle ratio. 3.69 is crazy low with no 5-speed overdrive tranny. Your car (1991 300CE, right?) should have 3.06 gears which is already pretty good... the 93-95 coupes/cabrios dropped to 2.65 gears. If you do any freeway cruising, or want any sort of top speed, I would prefer 2.82-3.06 or at most 3.27 gears. With 3.69 you'd probably be at 4krpm on the freeway!
I'd put the money into a limited-slip diff - this really makes a big difference. But you need to decide on a gear ratio first, then build the LSD. Personally, I'd keep the ratio stock at 3.06 and pop in a factory LSD carrier.
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
If there is cracking on the rubber mounts, they're probably due for replacement. I have Meyle HD mounts on my '87 with KONI yellows and OE Sportline springs. The RDM TEK mounts are really sweet but IMO they are way overkill for street use... they're more of a track/race item. Street cars usually don't need the additional camber adjustment.
FYI, the RDM TEK adjustable front strut mounts are almost sold out, and there may never be another production run. See post #2 at this thread:
http://500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6713
Be careful with your choice of rear axle ratio. 3.69 is crazy low with no 5-speed overdrive tranny. Your car (1991 300CE, right?) should have 3.06 gears which is already pretty good... the 93-95 coupes/cabrios dropped to 2.65 gears. If you do any freeway cruising, or want any sort of top speed, I would prefer 2.82-3.06 or at most 3.27 gears. With 3.69 you'd probably be at 4krpm on the freeway!
I'd put the money into a limited-slip diff - this really makes a big difference. But you need to decide on a gear ratio first, then build the LSD. Personally, I'd keep the ratio stock at 3.06 and pop in a factory LSD carrier.
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
I asked the RDMtek guy and he said that their front mounts and the 5mm shortened rear LCAs would be needed to compensate for the negative camber from a 1.5" drop, but the H&R Springs set I want is only 1.3". I was hoping this would not be true because that is some extra cost I don't want but :\ I also asked if they were stopping production but he neatly ignored that part of the email.
I think I have the 3.27 (1990 300ce). The way I find it at present is that if I am going about 60 on a flat road cruising I am taching about 3k in 4th, maybe a bit more or less. This holds true at pretty much any speed.
If I were to swap to the 3.69 with the gears from the r129 300sl, wouldn't I still be okay? I am assuming they had the ratios matched to that rear diff to allow the proper acceleration and cruising.
If not, how hard is the 722.5 to swap in? Also, what car is that even from? What would I need to change to have that?
#357
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Strut Mount:
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/DSCF4004-1.jpg)
Strut Mount:
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/DSCF4005.jpg)
Exhaust Manifold Before:
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/DSCF4006.jpg)
Exhaust Manifold After:
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/DSCF4007.jpg)
I don't think this sandpaper is going to cut it :\ That took about an hour and really did not get the surface prepped well at all.
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/DSCF4004-1.jpg)
Strut Mount:
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/DSCF4005.jpg)
Exhaust Manifold Before:
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/DSCF4006.jpg)
Exhaust Manifold After:
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/DSCF4007.jpg)
I don't think this sandpaper is going to cut it :\ That took about an hour and really did not get the surface prepped well at all.
#358
Just wondering. I saw your first post on this thread and you mentioned a website called Cksperformance.com i believe. I found a few products on there that i am kind of interested in. Can i trust that webiste?
For Example: I was interested in this.
http://www.cksperformance.com/merced...des.asp?SID=27
It is called the Sprint booster, and apparently there are 3 different modes.
Mode 1 is Sprint Booster off.
Mode 2 is Improved response and smooth driving.
Mode 3 is improved response and aggressive driving.
I am interested in this because my cars response time is very laggy and slow. Sometimes i feel it is dangerous because the only way to speed up fast is to floor it and make it down shift.
The website also states that there is a big difference in higher rev. range. Meaning fast acceleration i guess?
Can i trust this product? It is about $300 and figuring the shop is in the U.K it is probably a little bit extra to have it shipped. So assuming shipping is $25 then I'd be dropping $325 just for better response. Worth it or no? Are they trustworthy?
For Example: I was interested in this.
http://www.cksperformance.com/merced...des.asp?SID=27
It is called the Sprint booster, and apparently there are 3 different modes.
Mode 1 is Sprint Booster off.
Mode 2 is Improved response and smooth driving.
Mode 3 is improved response and aggressive driving.
I am interested in this because my cars response time is very laggy and slow. Sometimes i feel it is dangerous because the only way to speed up fast is to floor it and make it down shift.
The website also states that there is a big difference in higher rev. range. Meaning fast acceleration i guess?
Can i trust this product? It is about $300 and figuring the shop is in the U.K it is probably a little bit extra to have it shipped. So assuming shipping is $25 then I'd be dropping $325 just for better response. Worth it or no? Are they trustworthy?
#359
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Just wondering. I saw your first post on this thread and you mentioned a website called Cksperformance.com i believe. I found a few products on there that i am kind of interested in. Can i trust that webiste?
For Example: I was interested in this.
http://www.cksperformance.com/merced...des.asp?SID=27
It is called the Sprint booster, and apparently there are 3 different modes.
Mode 1 is Sprint Booster off.
Mode 2 is Improved response and smooth driving.
Mode 3 is improved response and aggressive driving.
I am interested in this because my cars response time is very laggy and slow. Sometimes i feel it is dangerous because the only way to speed up fast is to floor it and make it down shift.
The website also states that there is a big difference in higher rev. range. Meaning fast acceleration i guess?
Can i trust this product? It is about $300 and figuring the shop is in the U.K it is probably a little bit extra to have it shipped. So assuming shipping is $25 then I'd be dropping $325 just for better response. Worth it or no? Are they trustworthy?
For Example: I was interested in this.
http://www.cksperformance.com/merced...des.asp?SID=27
It is called the Sprint booster, and apparently there are 3 different modes.
Mode 1 is Sprint Booster off.
Mode 2 is Improved response and smooth driving.
Mode 3 is improved response and aggressive driving.
I am interested in this because my cars response time is very laggy and slow. Sometimes i feel it is dangerous because the only way to speed up fast is to floor it and make it down shift.
The website also states that there is a big difference in higher rev. range. Meaning fast acceleration i guess?
Can i trust this product? It is about $300 and figuring the shop is in the U.K it is probably a little bit extra to have it shipped. So assuming shipping is $25 then I'd be dropping $325 just for better response. Worth it or no? Are they trustworthy?
CKS was one of the sites claiming huge gains on the w124 for stuff like chip/exhaust etc. I've been told that it was BS so I'd be wary.
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; 04-18-2010 at 11:50 PM. Reason: Sites, not sights.
#360
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
You can't sand cast iron, you need to grind it...but it's not necessary.
Pick up a rust converter and paint it on.
The rust converter chemically neutralizes/changes the rusted surface to a black primer that can be painted.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Ed A.
#361
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Everything they sell can be bought in the USA..
In fact they import the Sprint Booster from the USA.
Euro Tuner did an article on the Sprint Booster...really doesn't do much..
Doubtful they even have one for the 124 cars.
Your wanting a 722.5 trans..why?
The 722.3 is a much more durable.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#362
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I asked the RDMtek guy and he said that their front mounts and the 5mm shortened rear LCAs would be needed to compensate for the negative camber from a 1.5" drop, but the H&R Springs set I want is only 1.3". I was hoping this would not be true because that is some extra cost I don't want but :\ I also asked if they were stopping production but he neatly ignored that part of the email.
Anyway, unless you're putting the car in the weeds, you don't need additional camber adjustment up front, but you will probably need it in the rear to keep tire wear in line. And yes, they are not planning to produce any more of the front strut mounts, unless perhaps there was a larger order / group buy submitted, pre-paid. I suspect there just wasn't enough demand for them to justify the cost of production. Your stock mounts are looking tired and should be replaced when you install new struts.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Last edited by AMGDave; 04-19-2010 at 12:01 PM.
#364
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![word](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/werd.gif)
Alrighty, I'll try to find some of that at WalMart and see what it will run me.
#365
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Thread Starter
You can't base any of this off a claimed "drop", becasue the "drop" will vary for each different car, and only you know what your current ride height is. I always get frustrated when people talk about inches of "drop" - it's a very approximate thing, not exact. This is why I'm always asking what the ride height is as measured from wheel center to fender lip, which is a valid reference point to compare different vehicles. Also, the front ride height will vary by up to about 1/2" with new struts compared to old (i.e., install new struts and your height may pop up 1/2"). Again, the aftermarket springs are a "one size fits all" and while they may lower one car 1.5" they may only lower another car 1.0", etc. What I do is determine the ride height I want, then get the springs & spring pads needed to achieve that height. For street use, I prefer approx 14.0" from wheel center to bottom of fender lip, front & rear, with a full tank of fuel, and new struts. Over time the front will gradually get lower so you may want to set it a bit high up front with new struts, so it will settle to the desired height. The rears don't seem to change at all over time - difference in design between struts & shocks.
Anyway, unless you're putting the car in the weeds, you don't need additional camber adjustment up front, but you will probably need it in the rear to keep tire wear in line. And yes, they are not planning to produce any more of the front strut mounts, unless perhaps there was a larger order / group buy submitted, pre-paid. I suspect there just wasn't enough demand for them to justify the cost of production. Your stock mounts are looking tired and should be replaced when you install new struts.
Ah, this thread title was 1991 300CE, which is why I was confused. Yes, the 1990 has a 3.27 diff. Again, I think this is already too high. I would absolutely not go any higher than 3.27... if it were my car, I'd want to drop it to 3.06 or 2.82 unless it was a weekend toy or track car.
I do like the pull of the 3.27 especially in first, it really slams you back in your seat. But 3 and are very conservative, I guess to enable it to get any sort of fuel economy at all.
Yes you can swap in the 3.69 diff, but you'd have to find a speedometer head to match, and there was never any 124 imported to the USA with 3.69 gears. It could be tough (or impossible) to locate one overseas that reads in MPH instead of KPH. One more reason to stick with 3.27 (or less!).
Nah, you don't want the 722.5, although the overdrive is nice it's not the strongest tranny. It was used in the 300SL/SL320 and also the S320, but just for a few years. It's a complicated swap and I wouldn't attempt it. The swap you really want is the 722.6 which is a very strong tranny, but it's an expensive and complicated swap (~$5k or so). WhippleM104 has done this conversion and although there are a few bugs, he's proved it's possible on a W124 with M104 - just not cheap. I would leave your existing 722.3 alone, it will deal with almost any power level you can throw at it.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Were there any higher ratio rear diffs that were used in the US that are a direct swap onto the m104/722.3?
#366
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For an instrument cluster in MPH, try England, the United Kingdom, for that. They have lots of MB's there, and crowded roads means they may have the mileage on the odometer that matches your car.
Magazines like, Classic Automobile, Mercedes Enthusiast, etc. Out of the UK, have lots of ads for parts sellers/fabricators.
Magazines like, Classic Automobile, Mercedes Enthusiast, etc. Out of the UK, have lots of ads for parts sellers/fabricators.
#367
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Alternatively, you could get a KPH cluster with the right gearing for your new tranny, then put a MPH overlay over the existing guage.
Options to explore anyway. Maybe Dave or someone knows more about this.
Options to explore anyway. Maybe Dave or someone knows more about this.
#368
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#369
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Thread Starter
For an instrument cluster in MPH, try England, the United Kingdom, for that. They have lots of MB's there, and crowded roads means they may have the mileage on the odometer that matches your car.
Magazines like, Classic Automobile, Mercedes Enthusiast, etc. Out of the UK, have lots of ads for parts sellers/fabricators.
Magazines like, Classic Automobile, Mercedes Enthusiast, etc. Out of the UK, have lots of ads for parts sellers/fabricators.
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#370
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Thread Starter
Found out what this Want A New One part is:
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/DSCF4001.jpg)
Part Number: A104-150-01-75
Designation: Screening Plate
Location: (15) Electrical Equipment -> (06) Ignition System
List Price: 150$ US (ZOMG)
![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/DSCF4001.jpg)
Part Number: A104-150-01-75
Designation: Screening Plate
Location: (15) Electrical Equipment -> (06) Ignition System
List Price: 150$ US (ZOMG)
#371
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Thread Starter
Anyone know if the 3.46 listed here for the m104 300te would be a direct swap over for my 300ce?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Differential-Mer...item19bb23ffc5
I think that would give me a noticeable boost right? And I am assuming this one is US market as well. I honestly never knew that the 3.69 was not US market![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Is it Canadian market? I am close enough that I could drive out there if someone cut me a deal on one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Differential-Mer...item19bb23ffc5
I think that would give me a noticeable boost right? And I am assuming this one is US market as well. I honestly never knew that the 3.69 was not US market
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Is it Canadian market? I am close enough that I could drive out there if someone cut me a deal on one.
#372
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About the only easy way to do this would be to either have a custom speedometer cable converter box built, or attempt a conversion to electronic speedometer from the V8 models, which would also require taking apart the rear transmission tail housing and swapping all the pieces from the V8. NOT an easy swap.
#373
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Anyone know if the 3.46 listed here for the m104 300te would be a direct swap over for my 300ce?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Differential-Mer...item19bb23ffc5
http://cgi.ebay.com/Differential-Mer...item19bb23ffc5
Boost in what? Boost in fuel consumption, yes. :p It would make the car feel snappier on takeoff but do you really want the engine spinning at 4000rpm on the freeway at 70mph? Then again, the redline-limited ~120mph top speed would help keep you out of jail...
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
There was never anything lower than a 3.27 used in the USA on a 124 chassis. Your car already has the lowest ratio offered in North America for the 124. I'd leave the gear ratio alone and just make it limited-slip. I hate to even mention this but there is a 3.69 ratio in the early SL320 which should swap into your car with some minor tweaking. But again (beating a dead horse) you're gonna have the speedometer problem.
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
#374
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Lol, indeed. So I take it the 3.46 is a European market only?
There was never anything lower than a 3.27 used in the USA on a 124 chassis. Your car already has the lowest ratio offered in North America for the 124. I'd leave the gear ratio alone and just make it limited-slip. I hate to even mention this but there is a 3.69 ratio in the early SL320 which should swap into your car with some minor tweaking. But again (beating a dead horse) you're gonna have the speedometer problem.
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
#375
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Well, non-North American anyway, in the 124, for 210mm diffs. There might be something from a US-spec W140/S320 but you'll have to do some homework.
Lemme put it this way - I'd rather spend the ~$1500 for limited-slip in your current diff, than $300 for lower gears. LSD will help put power to the ground, lower gears do not; they mostly just get the engine into the powerband a bit quicker from low speeds. If you had an E320 coupe with 2.65 gears I could understand wanting something a bit lower, but sheesh, you're already at 3.27...!
![Popcorn](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/popc1.gif)