the_widebody

find a newer 124 with the twin electric mirrors and swap em out, i did mine, best mod ive ever done, including the 18" forged rims at 18lbs mod, and the twin turbos mod, lol.

AMGDave

Here are photos to go along with Justin's description above:

http://www.w124performance.com/image...r_disassembly/

Start prying the thin center strip off from the bottom of the mirror, and work around to the outside edge and top. Once the center piece is off, the rest is a breeze. Definitely best to practice on a junk mirror the first time though.

Saijin_Naib

Awesome, thanks guys.

Saijin_Naib

Finally tackled the Cam Adjuster Magnet repair/replacement. Who knows if it fixed my horrendous 0-60 times. I can't find enough friction on any roads to test :P

Up next is my driver's side mirror and maybe a few other niggles (trunk stops and gutters).

Saijin_Naib

On winter fuel/tires after cam adjuster magnet replacement:
12.3s 0-60

I can't think of a method of disposal for this car that would be cathartic enough for me. This ****ing thing refuses to do what it is supposed to do. Checking cat next (though no one can give me a definitive test), so I might just take it off the ****ing car.

rivcal4life

fingers crossed for the cat!

Saijin_Naib

Thanks man. I'm at a loss here for what major item could be contributing in such a huge way to these performance issues. My dad wants to go down to basics and check timing, distribution, etc. I'm venturing a full rebuild will sort this issue out. But, that is not in the funds at the present.

semis1

Your motor would need to be rebuilt if your compression is not to specs.
If you have done that and it checks out, then forget about the rebuilt and do as your dad says. Timing etc.
You have mentioned that cats etc. have been changed (if I remember correctly) thus an unlikely culprit.
If it does not come into specs, that IS your biggest problem and it would cause major power loss.

AMGDave

Good point. What are the (hot) compression numbers? I can't recall you posting those here. If compression is at below min spec... you're wasting your time trying to get stock power out of it. Spec is 10-14 bar (145-200 psi) with a max deviation of 1.5 bar (22psi) from highest to lowest cylinder. If you test much above sea level, a correction factor needs to be applied, as the readings will be lower than a sea level test.

I'd do the compression test before anything else - a tester is cheap, you can do the test in a parking lot if necessary. Just need to remove all spark plugs. Here's the factory procedure:
http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20...04/01-0100.pdf

Although they specify using a remote starter switch so the ignition remains off, I *think* you'd be safe pulling the fuse for the fuel pump and unplugging all wires from the EZL, and then having a helper crank the engine via the key. Maybe someone else could chime in on that. A remote switch is preferred though.

semis1

Dave is right.
No remote starter needed.

Saijin_Naib

No rebuild done yet. I'm leaning that way eventually as I'd like to get it back to spec, but while I have it rebuilt, I'm going to throw in the 350sdl crank and M104. 2.8l rods and make it a 3.5l. Figure I'll save on the labor and parts costs this way.

Full exhaust was replaced the summer of 2008. Upstate NY uses 10% Ethanol in fuel at the pump, and Ethanol is less than kind on fuel systems not adapted to it, vis a vis, Catalytic converter damage. That coupled with my car burning oil might shorten the life of my cat, correct?

semis1

Could be, but I doubt it, at least to the extent you are experiencing and that fast, well how many miles have you put on the car since the replacement?
BUT check your compression!!! Not yelling, just being a bit loud.
Checking compression is very very easy!!! Do not just assume until you have ruled things out. Oh, by the way, CHECK YOUR COMPRESSION!!!
Let us know how it goes.

Saijin_Naib

From here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/4251814-post471.html

Compression is as follows:
Cyl # | Compression (PSI)
1 160
2 180
3 165
4 135
5 180
6 140

Looks like I'm just out of spec, right?

As for what my mechanic said to check, I've not done a leak-down, I've not assessed fuel volume, and I've not tested Throttle Position/Closed Throttle Position sensors.

AMGDave

Ack, now I remember this. You are a bit out of spec... cyls 4 and 6 are quite low. But a ~20psi shortfall shouldn't kill your power THAT much. I still suspect something fishy with your engine management, but I'm not sure what.



Probably time to check all of the above. I'm really surprised that you didn't notice a real increase in midrange power with the cam solenoid replacement. Have you re-tested with the new solenoid to make sure it's working correctly?



On a totally unrelated note - the forged CLK wheels do indeed clear the 300mm rear "Silver Arrow" brakes, so they're fine for drag radial use. Sadly they still won't clear anything larger than the 294/295 front brakes without spacers.

Saijin_Naib

When the car is cold, I can feel the power of the engine and the cam certainly feels like it is doing its work. Once the car gets to about operating temperature though, it goes ball-less on me.

What could this be?

bsmuwk

if you want to test out the cat or even the entire exhaust system... remove the exhaust from the downpipes back and try the sucker out with open pipes and nothing restricting. assuming you didn't buy some cheap asian crap exhaust system you should be able to unbolt the exhaust just before the cat.


one run isn't going to kill anybody and a couple bolts and some rubber bits drops your exhaust.


what the heck do you have to lose? sitting around diagnosing something on the internet isn't going to get your car fixed. get your hands in there so you can finally stop second guessing your exhaust.

rivcal4life

I give Brett some credit on the basis that it is probably near impossible to work on his car given the weather where he is.

Saijin_Naib

Info storage

Saijin_Naib

Yeah, weather is less than ideal, but the problem is even more basic. I lack a lift :C

AMGDave

Could be a flaky temp sensor somewhere. Have you tried a 0-60 run before the car is fully warmed up, say at 60°C on the dash gauge, to see if there is a significantly change in performance?

chlippo

the info i provided wont solve your problems man. your car must be running "normally" so you can have results from the timing trick.
I didnt read all the 25 pages of this thread but by curiosity what rear diff do you got?

chlippo

you might also want to check if your fuel peda (throttle) is working properly. easiest way to check out that is that you let someone press the pedal and you check out the throttle movement on the engine bay (you will have to remove the air filter box)
Somewhere there is like a screw to thighten the wire that goes from the throttle body to the pedal. try that too
EHA can make your car runs slow too,,,

Saijin_Naib

Yeah, one of the codes I get is bad temp sensor. I've reset them and I'll check again soon to see what has come back.

Rear diff on the 90 300ce is 3.27

Hm, I'll check the pedal then. What is test procedue for EHA? That is the rubber hose that goes to the exhaust manifold right? Just pull that off?

chlippo

it is the fuel regulator. it is bolted on your fuel distributor.
it is the square black part

AMGDave

Duuuuude. You gotta fix the problems that are causing the codes! That bad temp sensor would be #1 on the list because it's cheap & easy...