Possible Modifications to 1991 300ce?
#376
from my notes on w124, the k=xxxx equates to the rear end ratio to be used with that speedo
on a 124, stickers on the speedo head
k=1425 is 3.69
k=1330 is 3.46
k=1200 is 3.07
k=1100 is 2.88
_______________
on a 124, stickers on the speedo head
k=1425 is 3.69
k=1330 is 3.46
k=1200 is 3.07
k=1100 is 2.88
_______________
#378
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#379
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Lemme put it this way - I'd rather spend the ~$1500 for limited-slip in your current diff, than $300 for lower gears. LSD will help put power to the ground, lower gears do not; they mostly just get the engine into the powerband a bit quicker from low speeds. If you had an E320 coupe with 2.65 gears I could understand wanting something a bit lower, but sheesh, you're already at 3.27...!
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Also, do they in any way add drag to the trans and slow you down, or is that only for AWD?
Thanks
#380
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300D, 500E, E420
The most noticeable change is on wet or dirty pavement... with the stock open diff, when turning from a stop sign I'd often sit there and spin one tire. You have to let off the throttle and wait for it to hook up again - very annoying. With LSD driving both tires, it will push the car forward instead of sitting there, unless neither tire has traction. On really slick surfaces (snow/ice) you're more likely to encounter oversteer with LSD than without it, but it will also get you moving in a straight line where you might otherwise be stuck. Installing LSD in my 1987 300D completely cured the "one wheel peel" problem, I can turn and hit the throttle and actually accelerate! It won't cut throttle like ASR so you'll need to do that yourself if required.
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#381
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Well, it depends. In theory it will push things more towards oversteer... from understeer to neutral, or neutral to oversteer. This is mostly true if there is enough lockup (or not enough grip), which allows both rear tires to spin, which will let the rear end come out. However, the "limited" part of limited-slip usually keeps this from happening, at least on clean dry pavement.
The most noticeable change is on wet or dirty pavement... with the stock open diff, when turning from a stop sign I'd often sit there and spin one tire. You have to let off the throttle and wait for it to hook up again - very annoying. With LSD driving both tires, it will push the car forward instead of sitting there, unless neither tire has traction. On really slick surfaces (snow/ice) you're more likely to encounter oversteer with LSD than without it, but it will also get you moving in a straight line where you might otherwise be stuck. Installing LSD in my 1987 300D completely cured the "one wheel peel" problem, I can turn and hit the throttle and actually accelerate! It won't cut throttle like ASR so you'll need to do that yourself if required. ![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
There is a tiny amount of added drag just due to the extra components inside the diff, but we're talking miniscule amounts - nothing like AWD where you have a whole transfer case plus front axles driving front wheels, connected to the whole mass of the wheels/tires/rotors/axles/etc. The improved traction greatly outweighs any tiny loss from the added differential weight.
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The LSD documents are on your site right? I'll have to give them a pouring over.
If you could, about how many hour's job is the LSD install into the rear diff? Is it something I need a specialist for or is it a job a decent mechanic should be able to tackle?
Thanks as always!
#382
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Updates:
Got my K&N filter today, will try heatwrapping my intake (Just for yucks, only cost me 4$ in HVAC supplies lol).
Managed to get a 94/95 e320 wheel/airbag/ring from Joe for an amazing deal, thank you a ton Joe!
Excited to have a slightly nicer wheel + a safe airbag! Now I can upgrade easier to a newer wheel if I find one for cheap.
To Do:
Check sparkplugs and see how each one is doing. I suspect that they are fouled at this point. I am thinking NGK Iridium plugs. Sound good?
Got my K&N filter today, will try heatwrapping my intake (Just for yucks, only cost me 4$ in HVAC supplies lol).
Managed to get a 94/95 e320 wheel/airbag/ring from Joe for an amazing deal, thank you a ton Joe!
Excited to have a slightly nicer wheel + a safe airbag! Now I can upgrade easier to a newer wheel if I find one for cheap.
To Do:
Check sparkplugs and see how each one is doing. I suspect that they are fouled at this point. I am thinking NGK Iridium plugs. Sound good?
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; 04-23-2010 at 07:04 PM.
#384
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Update:
US Spec Amber Reflector Housing is NOT compatible with Euro Spec fog reflector housing. Sad, sad day.
Looks like I could force them in and install them, but they are shaped differently and I assume throw light a bit different.
I'm again on the hunt for Euro Spec Amber Fog Reflector Housings.
Update:
I've installed one side (Right Side) of my new wiper panels/wiper motors. The motor does not appear to be active although it is hooked up to the harness properly. Is there a fuse or something I may be missing?
US Spec Amber Reflector Housing is NOT compatible with Euro Spec fog reflector housing. Sad, sad day.
Looks like I could force them in and install them, but they are shaped differently and I assume throw light a bit different.
I'm again on the hunt for Euro Spec Amber Fog Reflector Housings.
Update:
I've installed one side (Right Side) of my new wiper panels/wiper motors. The motor does not appear to be active although it is hooked up to the harness properly. Is there a fuse or something I may be missing?
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; 04-23-2010 at 07:06 PM.
#385
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Question:
Is it possible to safely remove and re-insert the spark plugs without the special pliers/tool Mercedes specifies in the repair manual?
I tried manually pulling them out and it was a no-go.
Is it possible to safely remove and re-insert the spark plugs without the special pliers/tool Mercedes specifies in the repair manual?
I tried manually pulling them out and it was a no-go.
#386
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Thanks Rik for the guide, managed to finally get my warning triangle installed.
Also adjusted the spring tension for the decklid to the furthest spot so that the trunk lid will open and close properly.
Also adjusted the spring tension for the decklid to the furthest spot so that the trunk lid will open and close properly.
#387
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I'm reading through the w124 Shop Manual and I've come across the section on m104 Program Repairs for CIS-E. I've found this heading:
Complaint: Engine misfires around fuel reserve quantity and when cornering.
I do believe that this is what I've been experiencing in my car when I try to accelerate out of a hard cornering situation. The engine feels like it sort of dies off for a bit until the car becomes level and mostly straightened out. Once the car is level again the engine pulls strong, but while cornering and just after, it feels really limp. I don't hear tire spin and I don't feel it losing grip so I think it must be something with the fuel system.
The repair in the manual is to replace the fuel tank (
) I'm certain that after 20 years of fueling that it has probably accumulated some crap in the tank, especially since we've not always run the highest grade/quality fuel in it.
Do you think it could possibly be fixed by changing out the mesh strainer in the fuel tank and maybe trying to remove/lift out any debris, or should I just have someone replace the tank?
Or am I misdiagnosing this? The car maintains full power when straight/level but sometimes gets a bit limp when cornering. I've not noticed this behavior at any other time.
Thanks guys.
Complaint: Engine misfires around fuel reserve quantity and when cornering.
I do believe that this is what I've been experiencing in my car when I try to accelerate out of a hard cornering situation. The engine feels like it sort of dies off for a bit until the car becomes level and mostly straightened out. Once the car is level again the engine pulls strong, but while cornering and just after, it feels really limp. I don't hear tire spin and I don't feel it losing grip so I think it must be something with the fuel system.
The repair in the manual is to replace the fuel tank (
![action](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/action1.gif)
Do you think it could possibly be fixed by changing out the mesh strainer in the fuel tank and maybe trying to remove/lift out any debris, or should I just have someone replace the tank?
Or am I misdiagnosing this? The car maintains full power when straight/level but sometimes gets a bit limp when cornering. I've not noticed this behavior at any other time.
Thanks guys.
#388
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Air Temp Sensor
![](http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/hires/W01331636397OES.JPG?width=300&height=300)
What exactly does this bad-boy do? It is located on the side of my intake duct right before the airbox. Mine is rather laden with buildup/crap and I'm not certain if it is reading properly.
Obviously, this measures the intake air temperature. What effect does this have on the car if this is not working 100% properly? Can this be cleaned manually? I've got Tuff Stuff (general purpose cleaner, works amazing on pretty much anything) + a hard bristle toothbrush which I could take to it, but I'm not certain whether or not I would break it?
What exactly does this bad-boy do? It is located on the side of my intake duct right before the airbox. Mine is rather laden with buildup/crap and I'm not certain if it is reading properly.
Obviously, this measures the intake air temperature. What effect does this have on the car if this is not working 100% properly? Can this be cleaned manually? I've got Tuff Stuff (general purpose cleaner, works amazing on pretty much anything) + a hard bristle toothbrush which I could take to it, but I'm not certain whether or not I would break it?
#389
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Brett
Oil catch can...
Looking at the front of the car, mount it to the right or the side where the vent hose runs from the engine to the ait cleaner.
You should have room in the front fender area near the ABS and behind the headlight.
Ed A.
Oil catch can...
Looking at the front of the car, mount it to the right or the side where the vent hose runs from the engine to the ait cleaner.
You should have room in the front fender area near the ABS and behind the headlight.
Ed A.
#390
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Obviously, this measures the intake air temperature. What effect does this have on the car if this is not working 100% properly? Can this be cleaned manually? I've got Tuff Stuff (general purpose cleaner, works amazing on pretty much anything) + a hard bristle toothbrush which I could take to it, but I'm not certain whether or not I would break it?
It slightly enrichens the AFR until the intake air temp warms up
Last edited by RBYCC; 04-26-2010 at 09:44 AM.
#391
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
I'm reading through the w124 Shop Manual and I've come across the section on m104 Program Repairs for CIS-E. I've found this heading:
Complaint: Engine misfires around fuel reserve quantity and when cornering.
I do believe that this is what I've been experiencing in my car when I try to accelerate out of a hard cornering situation. The engine feels like it sort of dies off for a bit until the car becomes level and mostly straightened out. Once the car is level again the engine pulls strong, but while cornering and just after, it feels really limp. I don't hear tire spin and I don't feel it losing grip so I think it must be something with the fuel system.
The repair in the manual is to replace the fuel tank (
) I'm certain that after 20 years of fueling that it has probably accumulated some crap in the tank, especially since we've not always run the highest grade/quality fuel in it.
Do you think it could possibly be fixed by changing out the mesh strainer in the fuel tank and maybe trying to remove/lift out any debris, or should I just have someone replace the tank?
Or am I misdiagnosing this? The car maintains full power when straight/level but sometimes gets a bit limp when cornering. I've not noticed this behavior at any other time.
Thanks guys.
Complaint: Engine misfires around fuel reserve quantity and when cornering.
I do believe that this is what I've been experiencing in my car when I try to accelerate out of a hard cornering situation. The engine feels like it sort of dies off for a bit until the car becomes level and mostly straightened out. Once the car is level again the engine pulls strong, but while cornering and just after, it feels really limp. I don't hear tire spin and I don't feel it losing grip so I think it must be something with the fuel system.
The repair in the manual is to replace the fuel tank (
![action](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/action1.gif)
Do you think it could possibly be fixed by changing out the mesh strainer in the fuel tank and maybe trying to remove/lift out any debris, or should I just have someone replace the tank?
Or am I misdiagnosing this? The car maintains full power when straight/level but sometimes gets a bit limp when cornering. I've not noticed this behavior at any other time.
Thanks guys.
#392
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Are you saying you can't remove the spark plug wire from the plug?
Don't pull by the wire...
Hold it by the insulator boot/sleeve and wiggle or rotate.
They should then pop off.
Ed A.
#393
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300D, 500E, E420
It may also pull ignition timing when air temps get too high. Clean it, and you can also check if it's working properly via an ohm meter.
#394
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Sorry, I know I'm being a bit slow with this
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#395
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#396
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#397
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I saw the MB tool in the shop manual and I figured it was probably one of the times that a special tool is necessary so I gave it up.
I guess I'll go ahead and give them another yank to see.
#398
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It's mostly photos of my two LSD builds, but yes. I just used the factory service manual for documentation.
You have to ask the mechanic... if they've done it before, they will let you know. But in general you'd need to have a rear-end (differential / driveline) shop do actual LSD install. Most mechanics would likely remove the diff from the car for you, then send it to the rear-end shop for the LSD conversion, then re-install the modified diff back in your car. Two separate steps. Wild guesses would be approx 4 hours to R&R the diff from the car, and then roughly another $400-$500 to have the new LSD carrier put into the diff. Plus the cost of the parts. And this assumes you are NOT changing gears. If they try to talk you into a full rebuild, I'd decline, unless your diff is noisy right now.
You have to ask the mechanic... if they've done it before, they will let you know. But in general you'd need to have a rear-end (differential / driveline) shop do actual LSD install. Most mechanics would likely remove the diff from the car for you, then send it to the rear-end shop for the LSD conversion, then re-install the modified diff back in your car. Two separate steps. Wild guesses would be approx 4 hours to R&R the diff from the car, and then roughly another $400-$500 to have the new LSD carrier put into the diff. Plus the cost of the parts. And this assumes you are NOT changing gears. If they try to talk you into a full rebuild, I'd decline, unless your diff is noisy right now.
Hmm, okay. Is the proper spec/reading for it available in the shop manual? I've got my multimeter sitting here with me so I can take a reading so long as I know what I'm looking for.
#399
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http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...sor_values.pdf
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#400
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Here is a link for the IAT sensor values on the M119 / LH injection... however I don't think your M104 / CIS sensor is the same. Maybe check if they are the same part number in the EPC, if so, here's the chart!
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...sor_values.pdf
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http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...sor_values.pdf
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