fingers crossed for the cat!
Possible Modifications to 1991 300ce?
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124 320ce amg widebody twin turbo, the nail
find a newer 124 with the twin electric mirrors and swap em out, i did mine, best mod ive ever done, including the 18" forged rims at 18lbs mod
, and the twin turbos mod
, lol.
, and the twin turbos mod, lol.
Super Member
Joined: May 2003
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From: Boise, ID, USA
300D, 500E, E420
If nothing there is obviously broken, checking it out should not be too difficult, but you have to be CAREFUL! The way you get inside the mirror is by removing the strip between the painted part (towards the front of the car) and the ABS plastic non-painted part surrounding the mirror glass. You remove the strip by prying it a little closest to the door, then pushing it towards the outside of the car while also pulling up. Once the strip is off, the front painted cover slides right off, and you should be able to see inside. It is very easy to scratch the different parts of the mirror, so you may want to practice on a junkyard car.
http://www.w124performance.com/image...r_disassembly/
Start prying the thin center strip off from the bottom of the mirror, and work around to the outside edge and top. Once the center piece is off, the rest is a breeze. Definitely best to practice on a junk mirror the first time though.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Here are photos to go along with Justin's description above:
http://www.w124performance.com/image...r_disassembly/
Start prying the thin center strip off from the bottom of the mirror, and work around to the outside edge and top. Once the center piece is off, the rest is a breeze. Definitely best to practice on a junk mirror the first time though.
http://www.w124performance.com/image...r_disassembly/
Start prying the thin center strip off from the bottom of the mirror, and work around to the outside edge and top. Once the center piece is off, the rest is a breeze. Definitely best to practice on a junk mirror the first time though.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Finally tackled the Cam Adjuster Magnet repair/replacement. Who knows if it fixed my horrendous 0-60 times. I can't find enough friction on any roads to test :P
Up next is my driver's side mirror and maybe a few other niggles (trunk stops and gutters).
Up next is my driver's side mirror and maybe a few other niggles (trunk stops and gutters).
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1990 300ce 24v I6
On winter fuel/tires after cam adjuster magnet replacement:
12.3s 0-60
I can't think of a method of disposal for this car that would be cathartic enough for me. This ****ing thing refuses to do what it is supposed to do. Checking cat next (though no one can give me a definitive test), so I might just take it off the ****ing car.
12.3s 0-60
I can't think of a method of disposal for this car that would be cathartic enough for me. This ****ing thing refuses to do what it is supposed to do. Checking cat next (though no one can give me a definitive test), so I might just take it off the ****ing car.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Thanks man. I'm at a loss here for what major item could be contributing in such a huge way to these performance issues. My dad wants to go down to basics and check timing, distribution, etc. I'm venturing a full rebuild will sort this issue out. But, that is not in the funds at the present.
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Joined: May 2010
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From: SoCal
'91 C124 300CE,'06 ML 500 W164, '00 BMW MCOUPE, '65 COBRA REPL.
Your motor would need to be rebuilt if your compression is not to specs.
If you have done that and it checks out, then forget about the rebuilt and do as your dad says. Timing etc.
You have mentioned that cats etc. have been changed (if I remember correctly) thus an unlikely culprit.
If it does not come into specs, that IS your biggest problem and it would cause major power loss.
If you have done that and it checks out, then forget about the rebuilt and do as your dad says. Timing etc.
You have mentioned that cats etc. have been changed (if I remember correctly) thus an unlikely culprit.
If it does not come into specs, that IS your biggest problem and it would cause major power loss.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Boise, ID, USA
300D, 500E, E420
Good point. What are the (hot) compression numbers? I can't recall you posting those here. If compression is at below min spec... you're wasting your time trying to get stock power out of it. Spec is 10-14 bar (145-200 psi) with a max deviation of 1.5 bar (22psi) from highest to lowest cylinder. If you test much above sea level, a correction factor needs to be applied, as the readings will be lower than a sea level test.
I'd do the compression test before anything else - a tester is cheap, you can do the test in a parking lot if necessary. Just need to remove all spark plugs. Here's the factory procedure:
http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20...04/01-0100.pdf
Although they specify using a remote starter switch so the ignition remains off, I *think* you'd be safe pulling the fuse for the fuel pump and unplugging all wires from the EZL, and then having a helper crank the engine via the key. Maybe someone else could chime in on that. A remote switch is preferred though.
I'd do the compression test before anything else - a tester is cheap, you can do the test in a parking lot if necessary. Just need to remove all spark plugs. Here's the factory procedure:
http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20...04/01-0100.pdf
Although they specify using a remote starter switch so the ignition remains off, I *think* you'd be safe pulling the fuse for the fuel pump and unplugging all wires from the EZL, and then having a helper crank the engine via the key. Maybe someone else could chime in on that. A remote switch is preferred though.
Thread Starter
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Your motor would need to be rebuilt if your compression is not to specs.
If you have done that and it checks out, then forget about the rebuilt and do as your dad says. Timing etc.
You have mentioned that cats etc. have been changed (if I remember correctly) thus an unlikely culprit.
If it does not come into specs, that IS your biggest problem and it would cause major power loss.
If you have done that and it checks out, then forget about the rebuilt and do as your dad says. Timing etc.
You have mentioned that cats etc. have been changed (if I remember correctly) thus an unlikely culprit.
If it does not come into specs, that IS your biggest problem and it would cause major power loss.
Full exhaust was replaced the summer of 2008. Upstate NY uses 10% Ethanol in fuel at the pump, and Ethanol is less than kind on fuel systems not adapted to it, vis a vis, Catalytic converter damage. That coupled with my car burning oil might shorten the life of my cat, correct?
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 154
Likes: 6
From: SoCal
'91 C124 300CE,'06 ML 500 W164, '00 BMW MCOUPE, '65 COBRA REPL.
Could be, but I doubt it, at least to the extent you are experiencing and that fast, well how many miles have you put on the car since the replacement?
BUT check your compression!!! Not yelling, just being a bit loud.
Checking compression is very very easy!!! Do not just assume until you have ruled things out. Oh, by the way, CHECK YOUR COMPRESSION!!!
Let us know how it goes.
BUT check your compression!!! Not yelling, just being a bit loud.
Checking compression is very very easy!!! Do not just assume until you have ruled things out. Oh, by the way, CHECK YOUR COMPRESSION!!!
Let us know how it goes.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Good point. What are the (hot) compression numbers? I can't recall you posting those here. If compression is at below min spec... you're wasting your time trying to get stock power out of it. Spec is 10-14 bar (145-200 psi) with a max deviation of 1.5 bar (22psi) from highest to lowest cylinder. If you test much above sea level, a correction factor needs to be applied, as the readings will be lower than a sea level test.
I'd do the compression test before anything else - a tester is cheap, you can do the test in a parking lot if necessary. Just need to remove all spark plugs. Here's the factory procedure:
http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20...04/01-0100.pdf
Although they specify using a remote starter switch so the ignition remains off, I *think* you'd be safe pulling the fuse for the fuel pump and unplugging all wires from the EZL, and then having a helper crank the engine via the key. Maybe someone else could chime in on that. A remote switch is preferred though.
I'd do the compression test before anything else - a tester is cheap, you can do the test in a parking lot if necessary. Just need to remove all spark plugs. Here's the factory procedure:
http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20...04/01-0100.pdf
Although they specify using a remote starter switch so the ignition remains off, I *think* you'd be safe pulling the fuse for the fuel pump and unplugging all wires from the EZL, and then having a helper crank the engine via the key. Maybe someone else could chime in on that. A remote switch is preferred though.
https://mbworld.org/forums/4251814-post471.html
Compression is as follows:
Cyl # | Compression (PSI)
1 160
2 180
3 165
4 135
5 180
6 140
Looks like I'm just out of spec, right?
As for what my mechanic said to check, I've not done a leak-down, I've not assessed fuel volume, and I've not tested Throttle Position/Closed Throttle Position sensors.
Super Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 890
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From: Boise, ID, USA
300D, 500E, E420
On a totally unrelated note - the forged CLK wheels do indeed clear the 300mm rear "Silver Arrow" brakes, so they're fine for drag radial use. Sadly they still won't clear anything larger than the 294/295 front brakes without spacers.
Thread Starter
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1990 300ce 24v I6
When the car is cold, I can feel the power of the engine and the cam certainly feels like it is doing its work. Once the car gets to about operating temperature though, it goes ball-less on me.
What could this be?
What could this be?
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: IL / WI
Depends on the day
one run isn't going to kill anybody and a couple bolts and some rubber bits drops your exhaust.
what the heck do you have to lose? sitting around diagnosing something on the internet isn't going to get your car fixed. get your hands in there so you can finally stop second guessing your exhaust.
Last edited by bsmuwk; Dec 31, 2010 at 07:23 PM.
Thread Starter
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1990 300ce 24v I6
take a look here
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ght=tuning+cis
and here
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ght=tuning+cis
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ght=tuning+cis
and here
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ght=tuning+cis
Super Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 890
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From: Boise, ID, USA
300D, 500E, E420
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 306
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300E W124, 300E W124 3.4 AMG, Audi S3 2002
the info i provided wont solve your problems man. your car must be running "normally" so you can have results from the timing trick.
I didnt read all the 25 pages of this thread but by curiosity what rear diff do you got?
I didnt read all the 25 pages of this thread but by curiosity what rear diff do you got?
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 306
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300E W124, 300E W124 3.4 AMG, Audi S3 2002
you might also want to check if your fuel peda (throttle) is working properly. easiest way to check out that is that you let someone press the pedal and you check out the throttle movement on the engine bay (you will have to remove the air filter box)
Somewhere there is like a screw to thighten the wire that goes from the throttle body to the pedal. try that too
EHA can make your car runs slow too,,,
Somewhere there is like a screw to thighten the wire that goes from the throttle body to the pedal. try that too
EHA can make your car runs slow too,,,
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Yeah, one of the codes I get is bad temp sensor. I've reset them and I'll check again soon to see what has come back.
Rear diff on the 90 300ce is 3.27
Hm, I'll check the pedal then. What is test procedue for EHA? That is the rubber hose that goes to the exhaust manifold right? Just pull that off?
Rear diff on the 90 300ce is 3.27
Hm, I'll check the pedal then. What is test procedue for EHA? That is the rubber hose that goes to the exhaust manifold right? Just pull that off?
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 890
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From: Boise, ID, USA
300D, 500E, E420
