Possible Modifications to 1991 300ce?
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1990 300ce 24v I6
I'll re-read the codes and see if that has returned. I've driven for about 1000mi since the last reset, so I assume the computer has had enough time to log things.
Actually, does anyone know how long it takes for our computer to log data and report it? I think most OBDII cars are at least 75mi or 24hr.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Came across this while reading and trying to diagnose stuff in the manual.
Is this what you guys were talking about with the fuel distributor? I mean, this sounds like my problem right? Could it be this?
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1990 300ce 24v I6
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From: Boise, ID, USA
300D, 500E, E420
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Current Codes (after clear and multiple trips)
3 (CIS-E/CFI)
11 - Air Injection System: Open or Short Circuit
16 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Switchover Valve: Open or Short Circuit
6 (SRS Control Module)
3 - Driver Airbag Squib
8 - Voltage Supply Interrupted (15R)
7 (HVAC Automatic A/C)
13 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Open Circuit
8 (Distributor Ignition [DI])
17 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Faulty (there are two of these, which one is it? The one that goes to the EZL?)
14 (Electronic Accelerator Control Module [EA] / Cruise Control Amplifier [CC])
2 - Cruise Control / Idle Speed Control Module
3 - Cruise Control / Idle Speed Control Actuator
3 (CIS-E/CFI)
11 - Air Injection System: Open or Short Circuit
16 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Switchover Valve: Open or Short Circuit
6 (SRS Control Module)
3 - Driver Airbag Squib
8 - Voltage Supply Interrupted (15R)
7 (HVAC Automatic A/C)
13 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Open Circuit
8 (Distributor Ignition [DI])
17 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Faulty (there are two of these, which one is it? The one that goes to the EZL?)
14 (Electronic Accelerator Control Module [EA] / Cruise Control Amplifier [CC])
2 - Cruise Control / Idle Speed Control Module
3 - Cruise Control / Idle Speed Control Actuator
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; Jan 8, 2011 at 07:40 PM.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Checked the resistor pack on my EZL (marked with an number 2).
According to this site's EZL Values Table, the number 2 resistor pack (or position on the thoroughly awesome adjustable Euro-spec EZL) is supposed to be 2400 Ohms. I read mine using my multimeter on the 20k Ohms setting and it read 2.4 to 2.39, so right about on spec.
I also have one of the Bosch EZLs, so I don't think it is at fault. Apparently the Siemens ones were more prone to failures and issues. It looks like my EZL was superceded by 013-545-83-32 which was in turn superceded by 016-545-04-32. I have no idea of the changes each one represents.
Part Number:
015-545-67-28 (2 Resistor Pack)
010-545-95-32 (EZL)
Does anyone know the part number for the S Resistor Pack? I'd like to have that around for testing purposes.
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; Jan 8, 2011 at 07:39 PM.
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From: Boise, ID, USA
300D, 500E, E420
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Hmmm. I'm confused about this. Your car doesn't have electronic accelerator module, and I didn't think there were codes from the CIS cruise control / idle control module. I'm not familiar with CIS though so maybe someone else can chime in. I doubt this is causing anything major, but I could be wrong...
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Depends on the day
Now we're on to something serious. The crank sensor is usually located at the tranny bellhousing, but I'm not sure of the exact location on the M104. This would be #1 on my list and it could definitely affect engine performance.
The crank sensor is located on the engine portion of the bellhousing and is located just above the starter. It's an epic PITA on the M104 to replace. Knowing the bowels of these CIS M104 like the palm of my hand, I could definitely say that this can be a HUGE influencing factor in the startability of the car and could have an effect on overall performance. The crank sensor is where the EZL get's its readings for firing pulses. If it gets faulty readings, you get crap performance - regardless of maintenance.
Hmmm. I'm confused about this. Your car doesn't have electronic accelerator module, and I didn't think there were codes from the CIS cruise control / idle control module. I'm not familiar with CIS though so maybe someone else can chime in. I doubt this is causing anything major, but I could be wrong...
I'm with you, but it might be a reference to the actuator..
And bro, you're looking at the wrong stuff there in the EPC. Those are diagnostic sensors the MB mechanics used to determine TDC and camshaft position. Absolutely NOTHING to do with how your car runs. I don't even have the 002-153-22-28 sensor installed in my car anymore because it always got in my way when I had to do something up front. Yeah, completely removed. Car runs and drives. The sensor you should be looking at is about $100 and is number 32 on the EPC picture. It's right under the oil filter and above the starter.
Last edited by bsmuwk; Jan 9, 2011 at 01:00 AM.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
And bro, you're looking at the wrong stuff there in the EPC. Those are diagnostic sensors the MB mechanics used to determine TDC and camshaft position. Absolutely NOTHING to do with how your car runs. I don't even have the 002-153-22-28 sensor installed in my car anymore because it always got in my way when I had to do something up front. Yeah, completely removed. Car runs and drives. The sensor you should be looking at is about $100 and is number 32 on the EPC picture. It's right under the oil filter and above the starter.
You mean Item 22 (A 002-153-90-28) [Sender Unit: Position Sender Unit, EZL]? Item 32 in the drawing is identified as a Spacer Washer.
I'll get right on buying that now then.
Does this look compatible? The part's listing does not confirm it, but it looks like the one from the EPC's picture.
Crank Position Sensor
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; Jan 9, 2011 at 01:11 AM.
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From: Boise, ID, USA
300D, 500E, E420
Yes - you want p/n 002-153-90-28. If you order the fleaBay item, please let us know what brand it is. The price is great but I'd be surprised if you received Bosch, Hella, or Vemo as those are ~$120 from most vendors.
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From: IL / WI
Depends on the day
Well *****, I just ordered the 002-153-22-28.
You mean Item 22 (A 002-153-90-28) [Sender Unit: Position Sender Unit, EZL]? Item 32 in the drawing is identified as a Spacer Washer.
I'll get right on buying that now then.
Does this look compatible? The part's listing does not confirm it, but it looks like the one from the EPC's picture.
Crank Position Sensor
You mean Item 22 (A 002-153-90-28) [Sender Unit: Position Sender Unit, EZL]? Item 32 in the drawing is identified as a Spacer Washer.
I'll get right on buying that now then.
Does this look compatible? The part's listing does not confirm it, but it looks like the one from the EPC's picture.
Crank Position Sensor
As for the ebay listing - it sure looks the same. I'd be interested in knowing what brand that is as well. I paid $110 for my VDO sensor.
Last edited by bsmuwk; Jan 9, 2011 at 02:23 PM.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
003-153-01-28
This part looks like the crank position sensor for m119, m111, later m104, and m102 engines. They've said it is not compatible with my application.
So now the search begins again. Oh, they're mum on the brand so that is sketch
As of right now, this is the ONLY compatible sender I've found for somewhat reasonable:
002-153-90-28
Using Amazon's Part Finder, I've come up with these items:
Amazon Compatible Parts 1990 300ce
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; Jan 9, 2011 at 03:35 PM.
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Depends on the day
I wouldn't fiddle around with those "Standard Motor Products" sensors. Who the hell knows how inferior they might be. For the same price, you're better off getting OEM Bosch sensor from autohausaz.com
Parts.com has them at $124,20 but you get the sensor in the original MB packaging.
Parts.com has them at $124,20 but you get the sensor in the original MB packaging.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
I wouldn't fiddle around with those "Standard Motor Products" sensors. Who the hell knows how inferior they might be. For the same price, you're better off getting OEM Bosch sensor from autohausaz.com
Parts.com has them at $124,20 but you get the sensor in the original MB packaging.
Parts.com has them at $124,20 but you get the sensor in the original MB packaging.
Jumped on the new Bosch Ebay one, best offered it for 85$ + 10$ shipping so not a bad deal IMO.Excited to see if this helps
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Depends on the day
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1990 300ce 24v I6
About how long would the install take a mechanic? I might just have my shop guy do it for me. My dad said it'd be much easier if I had a lift to get at it from underneath. If that is the case, I'll just drop it by and let him do the install.
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Depends on the day
Please don't tell me that man. High temp for the rest of the month should be well below 30F with snow most days. I really am not looking forward to working outside in those temperatures for hours on end.
About how long would the install take a mechanic? I might just have my shop guy do it for me. My dad said it'd be much easier if I had a lift to get at it from underneath. If that is the case, I'll just drop it by and let him do the install.
About how long would the install take a mechanic? I might just have my shop guy do it for me. My dad said it'd be much easier if I had a lift to get at it from underneath. If that is the case, I'll just drop it by and let him do the install.
I've been messing around with my car in frigid temps all week long. To save you a couple frost bitten fingers, let your shop buddy do it.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Haha, I just might. I'll try and tackle it in the garage when everyone else's cars are out of it. I need to do the Engine Temp sensor and I think my EGR valve as well. I attached one end of the rubber hose to my shop-vac and the engine noise didn't change so I guess it has given up the ghost at some point as well.
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From: IL / WI
Depends on the day
Haha, I just might. I'll try and tackle it in the garage when everyone else's cars are out of it. I need to do the Engine Temp sensor and I think my EGR valve as well. I attached one end of the rubber hose to my shop-vac and the engine noise didn't change so I guess it has given up the ghost at some point as well.
That EGR isn't going to do much for your car, just sayin'. Chances are the EGR piping is all plugged up anyway and all those carbon deposits made their way back to the intake and are plugging up your induction. I have the vac line on mine plugged with a BB until i make a block off plate for it and finally remove anything associated with the EGR system (including the air pump). The easiest way IMO to get to the crank sensor is by removing the ignition coil and fishing your arm all the way through under the intake manifold. Crawling under the car you'll find the starter in the way. It should be a 5mm allen head bolt. If you get the screw out of the way and you can't remove the sensor, vice grips and twist and pull until it wiggles free. They rust infuse themselves to the bellhousing. Which is BS.
Before the install, take a battery terminal brush and file out that hole to remove rust. Then stick some grease around the crank sensors shiny (or black) housing and then pop it in twisting and pushing.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
You actually want a working EGR? That EGR isn't going to do much for your car, just sayin'. Chances are the EGR piping is all plugged up anyway and all those carbon deposits made their way back to the intake and are plugging up your induction. I have the vac line on mine plugged with a BB until i make a block off plate for it and finally remove anything associated with the EGR system (including the air pump).
That EGR isn't going to do much for your car, just sayin'. Chances are the EGR piping is all plugged up anyway and all those carbon deposits made their way back to the intake and are plugging up your induction. I have the vac line on mine plugged with a BB until i make a block off plate for it and finally remove anything associated with the EGR system (including the air pump).The easiest way IMO to get to the crank sensor is by removing the ignition coil and fishing your arm all the way through under the intake manifold. Crawling under the car you'll find the starter in the way. It should be a 5mm allen head bolt. If you get the screw out of the way and you can't remove the sensor, vice grips and twist and pull until it wiggles free. They rust infuse themselves to the bellhousing. Which is BS.
Before the install, take a battery terminal brush and file out that hole to remove rust. Then stick some grease around the crank sensors shiny (or black) housing and then pop it in twisting and pushing.
Before the install, take a battery terminal brush and file out that hole to remove rust. Then stick some grease around the crank sensors shiny (or black) housing and then pop it in twisting and pushing.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
The One Snowstorm (01-11-11) | Snow Control Exercises
Doing some light drifting and control exercises in my housing development during The One Snowstorm on January 1st, 2011.
The place was mad quiet, most likely due to everyone being inside and enjoying how beautiful the snow was while it was coming down. Would that I could have done the same, but the snow was calling.
-----------------------------
Video Source: Droid Incredible
Audio Source: Explosions In The Sky - Six Days At The Bottom Of The Sea
Audio Copyright: ???
-----------------------------
Limited Slip / Quaife and the car actually performing properly would have made this a much more enriching exercise. That being said, this was still a blast. I'm getting much better with recovering from oversteer conditions. It's really hard to get the counter-steer proper and then modulate the throttle properly to whip the end back. I wish I had a nice large paved oval in the backyard I could just go out and practice on.
Doing some light drifting and control exercises in my housing development during The One Snowstorm on January 1st, 2011.
The place was mad quiet, most likely due to everyone being inside and enjoying how beautiful the snow was while it was coming down. Would that I could have done the same, but the snow was calling.
-----------------------------
Video Source: Droid Incredible
Audio Source: Explosions In The Sky - Six Days At The Bottom Of The Sea
Audio Copyright: ???
-----------------------------
Limited Slip / Quaife and the car actually performing properly would have made this a much more enriching exercise. That being said, this was still a blast. I'm getting much better with recovering from oversteer conditions. It's really hard to get the counter-steer proper and then modulate the throttle properly to whip the end back. I wish I had a nice large paved oval in the backyard I could just go out and practice on.
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Depends on the day
Well, I am an enviro science person so... I need to walk the walk a bit. Plus, Bucky failed smog earlier this year and I think the busted EGR/Air injection valve may have contributed to that. Its not HIGH priority to fix, but I do want to get it fixed.
Sounds like a job for Joe and not this guy. Thanks for the pointers though, I'll be sure to pass them onto him.
Sounds like a job for Joe and not this guy. Thanks for the pointers though, I'll be sure to pass them onto him.
already started a couple fires in labs this week
