Saijin_Naib

Lol, I know, I know. My process must be strange for you guys. It makes sense, really it does. I'm trying to isolate the most likely issue by casting a wide net and working down from there by bouncing ideas off you guys and cross-checking things etc.

I'll re-read the codes and see if that has returned. I've driven for about 1000mi since the last reset, so I assume the computer has had enough time to log things.

Actually, does anyone know how long it takes for our computer to log data and report it? I think most OBDII cars are at least 75mi or 24hr.

Saijin_Naib

Came across this while reading and trying to diagnose stuff in the manual.

Is this what you guys were talking about with the fuel distributor? I mean, this sounds like my problem right? Could it be this?

Saijin_Naib

So, am I replacing that small black relay or what?

bsmuwk

That's the EHA valve he's talking about.

Saijin_Naib

Ah, okay. Thanks for the clarification on that one.

AMGDave

Well it's sure worth checking out. I forget where exactly this plug is located, it's near the fuse box area, small widget with two pins. Nothing to do with fuel system though.

Saijin_Naib

Current Codes (after clear and multiple trips)

3 (CIS-E/CFI)
11 - Air Injection System: Open or Short Circuit
16 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Switchover Valve: Open or Short Circuit

6 (SRS Control Module)
3 - Driver Airbag Squib
8 - Voltage Supply Interrupted (15R)

7 (HVAC Automatic A/C)
13 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Open Circuit

8 (Distributor Ignition [DI])
17 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Faulty (there are two of these, which one is it? The one that goes to the EZL?)

14 (Electronic Accelerator Control Module [EA] / Cruise Control Amplifier [CC])
2 - Cruise Control / Idle Speed Control Module
3 - Cruise Control / Idle Speed Control Actuator

Saijin_Naib

Ordered a coolant temperature sensor. Should be here shortly. Hopefully it helps a bit. The crankshaft position sensor though, that is not a cheap part and I've no idea where it is. I don't think I can see it from the top of the engine.

Checked the resistor pack on my EZL (marked with an number 2).
According to this site's EZL Values Table, the number 2 resistor pack (or position on the thoroughly awesome adjustable Euro-spec EZL) is supposed to be 2400 Ohms. I read mine using my multimeter on the 20k Ohms setting and it read 2.4 to 2.39, so right about on spec.

I also have one of the Bosch EZLs, so I don't think it is at fault. Apparently the Siemens ones were more prone to failures and issues. It looks like my EZL was superceded by 013-545-83-32 which was in turn superceded by 016-545-04-32. I have no idea of the changes each one represents.

Part Number:
015-545-67-28 (2 Resistor Pack)
010-545-95-32 (EZL)

Does anyone know the part number for the S Resistor Pack? I'd like to have that around for testing purposes.

AMGDave

I doubt these are causing any serious problem, but they're both fairly easy to check when you have time.



I'd expect these to trigger your SRS light at least intermittently - no effect on engine performance though.



Won't affect engine performance, but cheap/easy to fix regardless. This code could appear if you disconnected the ECT with the engine running, even if the ECT sensor is ok.



Now we're on to something serious. The crank sensor is usually located at the tranny bellhousing, but I'm not sure of the exact location on the M104. This would be #1 on my list and it could definitely affect engine performance.



Hmmm. I'm confused about this. Your car doesn't have electronic accelerator module, and I didn't think there were codes from the CIS cruise control / idle control module. I'm not familiar with CIS though so maybe someone else can chime in. I doubt this is causing anything major, but I could be wrong...

Saijin_Naib

I'm going to try and test the EGR tomorrow. My dad told me how and I know where it is. However, the Air Injection System I don't know where/how to test.
I know, I plan on fixing it when I replace my wheel/airbag.
Should arrive presently and it is easy looking to replace.
If you could translate the EPC clip I've posted, I'd be thankful. I can't decide what to make of it as both part numbers are optional with each other. I bought the Beru version of the 002-153-13-28, so do I need the 002-153-22-28?
I've no idea either, but according to the DTC manual those are the codes...

bsmuwk

And bro, you're looking at the wrong stuff there in the EPC. Those are diagnostic sensors the MB mechanics used to determine TDC and camshaft position. Absolutely NOTHING to do with how your car runs. I don't even have the 002-153-22-28 sensor installed in my car anymore because it always got in my way when I had to do something up front. Yeah, completely removed. Car runs and drives. The sensor you should be looking at is about $100 and is number 32 on the EPC picture. It's right under the oil filter and above the starter.

Saijin_Naib

Well *****, I just ordered the 002-153-22-28.

You mean Item 22 (A 002-153-90-28) [Sender Unit: Position Sender Unit, EZL]? Item 32 in the drawing is identified as a Spacer Washer.

I'll get right on buying that now then.

Does this look compatible? The part's listing does not confirm it, but it looks like the one from the EPC's picture.
Crank Position Sensor

AMGDave

Yes - you want p/n 002-153-90-28. If you order the fleaBay item, please let us know what brand it is. The price is great but I'd be surprised if you received Bosch, Hella, or Vemo as those are ~$120 from most vendors.

bsmuwk

That's the one, I just chose the number closest to the part I wanted you to look for.


As for the ebay listing - it sure looks the same. I'd be interested in knowing what brand that is as well. I paid $110 for my VDO sensor.

Saijin_Naib

I asked the vendor of the item's part number and it is:
003-153-01-28

This part looks like the crank position sensor for m119, m111, later m104, and m102 engines. They've said it is not compatible with my application.

So now the search begins again. Oh, they're mum on the brand so that is sketch

As of right now, this is the ONLY compatible sender I've found for somewhat reasonable:
002-153-90-28

Using Amazon's Part Finder, I've come up with these items:
Amazon Compatible Parts 1990 300ce

bsmuwk

I wouldn't fiddle around with those "Standard Motor Products" sensors. Who the hell knows how inferior they might be. For the same price, you're better off getting OEM Bosch sensor from autohausaz.com

Parts.com has them at $124,20 but you get the sensor in the original MB packaging.

Saijin_Naib

Hm, okay, thanks for the confirmation man Jumped on the new Bosch Ebay one, best offered it for 85$ + 10$ shipping so not a bad deal IMO.

Excited to see if this helps

bsmuwk

Have fun doing the removal and installation. You're going to be doing a lot of what this guy is doing -->

Saijin_Naib

Please don't tell me that man. High temp for the rest of the month should be well below 30F with snow most days. I really am not looking forward to working outside in those temperatures for hours on end.

About how long would the install take a mechanic? I might just have my shop guy do it for me. My dad said it'd be much easier if I had a lift to get at it from underneath. If that is the case, I'll just drop it by and let him do the install.

bsmuwk

I know what the temps are I've been messing around with my car in frigid temps all week long.

To save you a couple frost bitten fingers, let your shop buddy do it.

Saijin_Naib

Haha, I just might. I'll try and tackle it in the garage when everyone else's cars are out of it. I need to do the Engine Temp sensor and I think my EGR valve as well. I attached one end of the rubber hose to my shop-vac and the engine noise didn't change so I guess it has given up the ghost at some point as well.

bsmuwk

You actually want a working EGR? That EGR isn't going to do much for your car, just sayin'. Chances are the EGR piping is all plugged up anyway and all those carbon deposits made their way back to the intake and are plugging up your induction. I have the vac line on mine plugged with a BB until i make a block off plate for it and finally remove anything associated with the EGR system (including the air pump).

The easiest way IMO to get to the crank sensor is by removing the ignition coil and fishing your arm all the way through under the intake manifold. Crawling under the car you'll find the starter in the way. It should be a 5mm allen head bolt. If you get the screw out of the way and you can't remove the sensor, vice grips and twist and pull until it wiggles free. They rust infuse themselves to the bellhousing. Which is BS.

Before the install, take a battery terminal brush and file out that hole to remove rust. Then stick some grease around the crank sensors shiny (or black) housing and then pop it in twisting and pushing.

Saijin_Naib

Well, I am an enviro science person so... I need to walk the walk a bit. Plus, Bucky failed smog earlier this year and I think the busted EGR/Air injection valve may have contributed to that. Its not HIGH priority to fix, but I do want to get it fixed.
Sounds like a job for Joe and not this guy. Thanks for the pointers though, I'll be sure to pass them onto him.

Saijin_Naib

The One Snowstorm (01-11-11) | Snow Control Exercises


Doing some light drifting and control exercises in my housing development during The One Snowstorm on January 1st, 2011.

The place was mad quiet, most likely due to everyone being inside and enjoying how beautiful the snow was while it was coming down. Would that I could have done the same, but the snow was calling.
-----------------------------
Video Source: Droid Incredible
Audio Source: Explosions In The Sky - Six Days At The Bottom Of The Sea
Audio Copyright: ???
-----------------------------

Limited Slip / Quaife and the car actually performing properly would have made this a much more enriching exercise. That being said, this was still a blast. I'm getting much better with recovering from oversteer conditions. It's really hard to get the counter-steer proper and then modulate the throttle properly to whip the end back. I wish I had a nice large paved oval in the backyard I could just go out and practice on.

bsmuwk

i major in enviro science, no need to tell this guy about walking the walk


already started a couple fires in labs this week