Saijin_Naib

Yeah, if I follow MSRP for the Bilstein Sports it something like 437$ versus Koni Yellows @ 700$.

Cheapest I've found the Koni Yellow kits @: 613$ (Used to be around 555$ + Shipping, but seller now has that integrated into cost)

Probably just go with the Konis at that price point.

chlippo

Is the price for the bilstein for a pair or a single shock??
i think it is because they say quantity per vehicule:2 which means you need two of the advertised item...so the total price of a bilstein sports kit would be
179*2 + 259*2 = 876$ ??

RHW

I'm usually of the mind that I should do something once, do it exactly as I want it to be (so I'm not miserable later), and make any repair an upgrade because while I'm there, I might as well.
----------
Wise words.
That is how you keep a car far longer than big-car-corporate wants you to.

Shoomakan

100%. I'm still not sure if I want to swap in a 3.2 or 3.6 M104. :P

But yeah, I always pay a bit (sometimes alot) more for a guaranteed trouble free and guilt free result.

Saijin_Naib

You may be right there, I didn't notice that before. Well in that case, the Koni Yellows are an absolute deal! Perhaps I could get the DPS Yellows even! Not too far off at that point
I've decided I'd like to keep the car I'm still jonesing for a c230k (2002) and/or a w208 clk320/clk55 coupe, but what can you do? They're far out of my price range these days.

Oh, I think either myself and/or my father will be stopping by one of these days Rich. Is that alright?
Well, you said you wanted the 3.2l for possible boost later, right? Could you not use the 3.6l and lower the compression ratio a bit and boost that thing too?

Shoomakan

I'm sure I could... But I always like to plan ahead. Break the 3.6 motor, it's more difficult and significantly more expensive to replace/repair it.

I can buy the entire 320 block and head for 600$ over here, the 3.6 goes for exactly double that.

Saijin_Naib

Oh, so, I think I may be able to enter the STPR next year provided I get the car fixed up nicely. I've watched some videos, and it honestly doesn't seem any harder or more technical than the PBX course I ran, its just at higher speeds.

Of course, I need to get a rollcage welded/fitted, but I think I've talked my dad into that somehow

Here are some videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_e076W5Ic0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlbgYYhFhhE

Shoomakan

More importantly, both the 3.2 and 3.6 motors can easily attain 400 bhp, which as we agreed upon before is basically the limit of the chassis.

So the extra cost will give me no gain later on.

The 3.6 is the best option if I do NOT want to turbo it.

RHW

Yep, would be fine, I am here this week.

Saijin_Naib

Hm, I suppose the question is, why WOULDN'T you want to turbo it, amirite?

I have to ask pops, but I'm not sure this weekend will work. Thanks though

Car is under the knife finally. Ordered all the parts I need (so far). Mech is not fond of my air injection valve and is looking to either replace or find its vac leak source, has taken issue with my EHA (which we already knew) and is apparently stating at this point that the car is pretty much fine other than the headgasket and other wear items. I'm quite frankly shocked this is the case. I was fairly certain everything under that hood was broken.

Saijin_Naib

To Be Replaced:
EHA + Seals
Flex Disk (Front + Rear)
Distributor Cap + Rotor
Transmission Mount
Engine Mounts
Transmission Dipstick

Fixed:
Head gasket leak
Vac Leak Source (killed EGR/Air Injection/everything else & caused my rough/hard starts).

To Be Fixed:
Air Conditioning (!!!!!)
Fuel Distributor/Injector Service (Requesting, see what he has to say).

-------------------------

Some notes from this would be, there is a vac line (maybe more than one) that goes under the battery tray. Apparently, after years of my battery sweating lead acid, the acid corroded the hidden vac line and killed it. This caused my hard start issues & my stumbling under acceleration. It also killed my whole EGR system and my Air Injection Valve. Apparently, all of those are fine now that the line has been replaced. We're going to put the battery in one of those plastic bucket thingers to try and trap the acid so it doesn't do it again.

RHW

Sounds like some good fortune once you got in there!

Shoomakan

Sounds great Sai! Now swap it to manual! :P

Saijin_Naib

Good fortune? Nah, about 1k in parts only
Haha, I'm thinking about it, I'm thinking about it. My concern is that it'll throw off my concentration/vibe when I'm doing SCCA or rally. I really can't stand any more distractions than driving the auto already presents. But its on the table for a later date, much like all the other mods I want to do

Saijin_Naib

Just bought the updated fuel distributor gasket that chlippo showed me. Bascially, its a different material that can withstand the rigors of Ethanol better. Now that NY state is all pumps @ 10% Ethanol, I'd like to have my fuel system somewhat prepared for that miserable additive.

Also, I caved and bought Koni Yellows for all four corners. 560$ shipped

Shoomakan

Nice!

So when will Bucky be rolling again?

RBYCC

Brett

10% ethanol should present no problems..
I've used it for eight years in all my cars as Delaware mandated the mix about ten years ago...
It seems to present problems in small motors used in lawn mowers and even some marine outboards...
You will notice a loss of MPG using the mix...

Nero Smith

OK so I got a replacement plug for my car from MB ($57 and includes enough new cable to go all the way back to the harness mast plug behind the battery. How do you make the connection? stripl away the insulation there? Soldering involved? Or cut in the middle and splice together?

Saijin_Naib

Who knows. Probably a month or so more. I'm trying to tackle any and ever repair while its already off the road and I'm in the C280 Sport.
Yeah, its crap for mileage, and the car feels a bit boggy with it. I've been told that pre-OBDII cars can have difficulty adjusting the fuel mixture properly for it, leading to higher emissions outputs and other miscellaneous issues (fuel supply line wear, etc). How much of that is true? No idea, sounds logical though. Ethanol and other alcohols can have some hard properties for various materials.

In any case, not fond of ethanol and the updated gasket for the fuel distributor was 20$ and I figure why not have it rebuilt/gasketed? Might catch an issue.

chlippo

Have you installed the fuel distributor gasket yet? didnt do mine...maybe next month if im back to Lebanon.

I suggest that you test your fuel injectors as well! any regular shop can test it for you see if its working and spraying well. I always had some trouble with those injectors with all the cars i had using cis. The thing is that those cannot be cleaned...and they arent cheap and they make a hell of a difference!

hellah fresh

Hey guys have you seen this yet?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRMZS...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPodp...eature=related

I know a lot of people here are talking about the C36 swap and adding turbos to our benz motor and what not but why not swap a 2JZ GTE motor into our Benz? Lately i have been checking out some Thailand VIP car sites and i see a few Benz doing this swap. Just keep and open mind and imagine building a 1500+ hp into our Benz. I mean this is a Supra motor and i know almost everyone knows that fully built Supras are a beast. Just thought id share with you guys.

Shoomakan

You seem to forget a few things:

A: The W124 is chassis limited. It won't get past 500 horsepower on the stock subframes. You'll tear it apart....

B: The stock engine with boost can handle up to 500 bhp if you're careful and do it right, which already meets or exceeds the chassis limitations. So there's really no need for a Supra engine, which isn't really superior anyway. Think about it. Both inline 6's @ 3000cc's, both making the same power stock N/A. Both have oil squirters. Both have very strong bottom ends. However, the M104 Mercedes engine has better heads.

C: If you swap a C36 engine in our W124's, or even turbo it, you haven't really killed its value. And it is simple. And again, the engine in the W124's isn't inferior to the Supra engine.

Just my two cents, I honestly thought about it before and studied the option. There's really no point, and besides, I love my car too much to butcher it with a JDM engine.

Oh, and not a SINGLE 2JZ in the world can get to 1500bhp without changing almost every component in the engine. With all the things you're doing to it, an M104 would do the same.

2JZ's usually get to 600-ish bhp on stock internals, which is what an M104 with slightly lower compression and new head studs will get as well. It really isn't any better.

Saijin_Naib

Not yet, the gasket is being shipped home as we speak. I still have the link to the EBAY injectors you showed me. I may talk with my dad over it and see if the guy will recommend changing them or not. He's convinced so far that the fuel system (aside from EHA) is in good shape.
Yeah, no thanks to JDM stuff. The Supra is a cool car and there are 1000 and 1 parts for it, but that isn't what this car is. Its a German car with an m104. I really want to keep it that way.

Everything Shooma said basically :P I wonder if we could adapt/use any of the Supra parts, just like how you can use some honda conrods in the m104 to build upon.

chlippo

the stock M103 or M104 can take a max of 350-400 bhp to be realistic. Beyond this its a lot of money to invest it. Already to take it up there u will need to mod your fuel system even with standalone efi system or with additional injectors. then you have the automatic tranny that will start causing problems (unless you have a manual one). then your engine must be in a top shape or the hg will fail very soon under boost.

ive been there and tried this...and trust me its not very pleasant unless you are very very well prepared and have allll the parts you may need, and have a mechanic thats able to do it and willing to do it and iron all the little bugs that you might face.
The results are impressive, but then again you will have to sort your brakes and suspension.

im not being negative im just trying to report you stuff ive tried and faced.

That being said, i agree with the fact that modding the M103 M104 would end up pretty much as moddind the 2jz engine

hellah fresh

^^^ I would have to agree with you the price on doing the swap on either engine will end up almost cost the same. But think about it this way as for replacement parts cost after that. If something goes out on the car lets just say a starter... a Toyota starter will cost a lot less then the Mercedes parts. I know there are some people who would like to keep everything Mercedes and that is fine with me because i would like to do the same to mine. Then there are the few who wants something different... something that they can tune and upgrade with aftermarket performance parts available all over. After the end of which ever swap the person chooses to go with it all comes down to the cost of maintaining the motor. Im not trying to knock anyone who wants to keep everything euro and original Mercedes. All im doing is just throwing out this idea for the few who would want to make a beast out of our w124.