Possible Modifications to 1991 300ce?
Yes, shame on me
but they are cool mods Sean elected to get the OE MB mirror (last one built) and I have since switched over to using this one only. It more closely resembles the OE W124 mirror (stalk mounts from the rear), plus it has a internal compass and less problems with the Homelink.
It is more complicated to build but the end result is worth it.
Attached Thumbnails
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; Jun 10, 2009 at 09:13 PM.
The good news is, you can get aftermarket Euro lights (TYC or Depo) for about $200/pair, which is less than half what you'd likely pay for Bosch or Hella. The kwality isn't as good of course, but unless you're super picky, they're not bad for $200. Detailed photos of the Depo lights are on my website at this link. If you get any Euro lights, make sure you install Lamin-X protective film... the glass lenses have a nasty habit of getting cracked, holed, or broken.
The second link, the seller will give me 10% off the order and combine ship so I was looking to get those replicas + (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT) and (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT).
Another question: Are the housings of poor quality or is the glass of poor quality on the replicas? Am I better off getting either the real Euro housings and replacing the lenses with the clear replica lens (for a future E55 bi-xenon retro) or would the 94/95 DOT housings be a similar quality housing to put the new lense on?
What exactly is wrong with the TYC/DEPO lights compared to the OEM Bosch/Hella lights? Do they not fit right, do they fall out? I don't want another clear-corner fiasco (crappy clips, the damned things fell out on the road).
Of course, there is always this test report of TYC & Depo that indicates they may not perform as well as the genuine article. If you do any HID conversion, you'll need to retrofit an entire projector into a W124 lamp assembly, and get a clear glass lens - tons of work, questionable benefit. Just don't ever stick an HID burner into a Euro light assembly with halogen reflector & lens. Click here to read the technical reasons why this is a bad idea.
Ideally, the best factory lighting option is to get 500E Euro lights, which have auxiliary high beams instead of fogs, and also have the back side of the lens housing chromed. Add relays, large wire, a 150A alternator, and overwatt bulbs and you end up with almost the same lumens as HID but without all the hassle. Of course the down side is you lose your fogs, and the total cost is about $1k, but the light output is staggering. I have this exact setup on two of my cars. I would put it on the others if I could afford to.
What exactly makes the back gasket not fit well? Is there an issue with the gasket itself that can be fixed or is the rear cover just mis-shapen? Also, have you bent the back cover clips to ensure proper/tight fitment?
I do plan on (eventually) doing a proper HID retro using parts listed here: (e55 bi-xenon projectors, Hella Gen 3-R ballast, ZKW replica lenses, Optic shrouds, Phillips 81522+ D2s bulb)
http://store.theretrofitsource.com/index.php
Do you think those Depos will be a good purchase, or should I spend the (insane) 700$ for the 94/95 OEM lights? Ugh... Hate this confusing mess of crap. I'm tempted by the completely clear lights as they come with the perfect lenses for an eventual HID retro and should offer some nice output versus my cracked, dirty, pitted crap OEM DOT lights :|
I still don't recommend any HID conversion, it's an awful lot of work for questionable results in the end. Even Rik Johnson (2phast) recently removed his custom HID lights, sold them, and installed plain old Depo Euros on his W124. But, I'll not beat that horse to death...
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I know the HID conversion is a ***** but it is calling me. Not now, I'm not making nearly enough :P
I don't really plan on using the 94-95 hood ever; I like the pre-facelift + eyebrow spoiler look better.
Am I correct in assuming that tail-lights are tail-lights? I mean, if I were to buy the Eagle Eye replica 94-95 style tails (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT) and they turned out to not fit well, I could probably swap over the outside lens to the stock tail housing, correct?
12$ for both (plus drop off my stockies after I swap them out).
Not a bad deal right? I'm excited.
AAAND, I just got my DEPO euro lenses+clear corners and my MTEC H3 (3300k) and H4 (4350k) bulbs. Now, I just need to get the 6-pin adapters from the dealership tomorrow morning and I'll be in business. The salvage 300ce only had the one clip so I didn't bother.
Pics will come soon. I am like, crazy excited.
Clips are good, gaskets have some gaps. grr.. oh well, nothing some silicon can't fix. SHOULD be proper to begin with. Maybe I'll write them a nasty email.
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; Jun 26, 2009 at 07:45 PM.
12$ for both (plus drop off my stockies after I swap them out).
Not a bad deal right? I'm excited.
AAAND, I just got my DEPO euro lenses+clear corners and my MTEC H3 (3300k) and H4 (4350k) bulbs. Now, I just need to get the 6-pin adapters from the dealership tomorrow morning and I'll be in business. The salvage 300ce only had the one clip so I didn't bother.
Pics will come soon. I am like, crazy excited.
Clips are good, gaskets have some gaps. grr.. oh well, nothing some silicon can't fix. SHOULD be proper to begin with. Maybe I'll write them a nasty email.
. AMGDave,
What bulbs on the current market would you consider to be the brightest within the correct wattage range??...melted housings = no fun.
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; Jun 26, 2009 at 11:22 PM.
Those clear corners look pretty nice, I'm still partial to euro amber corners though.
I need my MTEC H4s and the 6-pin connectors before the headlights can go in. I'm going to the dealership soon to take care of the connectors, post office better take care of the H4s by day's end

(edit: USPS says arrival at unit, I will check on my way out to the dealership)
(edit edit: Parts closed on Saturday, no luck till Monday. Damnit!)
Last edited by Saijin_Naib; Jun 27, 2009 at 11:50 PM.
Anything beyond that needs relays, larger wires, and preferably an alternator uprgade (this is pretty cheap & easy anyway). In my 500E Hella Euros with relays & larger wires, I have Osram Hyper 85/80, which put out *more* lumens on low beam than even higher-wattage Rally lights. The mega-watt bulbs do better on high beam, but I'm more interested in low-beam performance. The Hypers are availale from Peter Burgeson (click here). Note that the Hypers have a shorter life span than stock, same as any over-wattage Rally bulbs... so you won't want to use them as DRL's.
Here's the lumens ratings:
Bulb wattage, high/low:
==================================
Stock 60/55 = 1650/1000 lumens
Good +50 bulbs = 1800/1100
Hyper 70/65 = 2000/1350
Hyper 85/80 = 2400/1750 (more on low beam than stock on HIGH beam!)
Rally 100/90 = 2600/1500 (Philips or Narva)
Rally 130/100 = 3200/1600 (Philips or Narva)

Anything beyond that needs relays, larger wires, and preferably an alternator uprgade (this is pretty cheap & easy anyway). In my 500E Hella Euros with relays & larger wires, I have Osram Hyper 85/80, which put out *more* lumens on low beam than even higher-wattage Rally lights. The mega-watt bulbs do better on high beam, but I'm more interested in low-beam performance. The Hypers are availale from Peter Burgeson (click here). Note that the Hypers have a shorter life span than stock, same as any over-wattage Rally bulbs... so you won't want to use them as DRL's.
Here's the lumens ratings:
Bulb wattage, high/low:
==================================
Stock 60/55 = 1650/1000 lumens
Good +50 bulbs = 1800/1100
Hyper 70/65 = 2000/1350
Hyper 85/80 = 2400/1750 (more on low beam than stock on HIGH beam!)
Rally 100/90 = 2600/1500 (Philips or Narva)
Rally 130/100 = 3200/1600 (Philips or Narva)
Last edited by pifcat2; Jun 29, 2009 at 05:31 AM.

Photos of my one relay installation are at this link, the other install is at this link (scroll down to the bottom). I added a feed directly from the battery with one 8-gauge cable to each side (left & right), which splits into one 10-gauge to each relay, and then 12-gauge wires to the six-pole headlight connector.
That's a little overkill though, it would be fine to run one 10-gauge to each side, splitting to 12-gauge to each pair of relays, and then 14-gauge to the headlight connector. Use separate fuses for left & right sides so you won't lose all lights if a fuse blows - you'd just lose one side or the other.
Anything beyond that needs relays, larger wires, and preferably an alternator uprgade (this is pretty cheap & easy anyway). In my 500E Hella Euros with relays & larger wires, I have Osram Hyper 85/80, which put out *more* lumens on low beam than even higher-wattage Rally lights. The mega-watt bulbs do better on high beam, but I'm more interested in low-beam performance. The Hypers are availale from Peter Burgeson (click here). Note that the Hypers have a shorter life span than stock, same as any over-wattage Rally bulbs... so you won't want to use them as DRL's.
Here's the lumens ratings:
Bulb wattage, high/low:
==================================
Stock 60/55 = 1650/1000 lumens
Good +50 bulbs = 1800/1100
Hyper 70/65 = 2000/1350
Hyper 85/80 = 2400/1750 (more on low beam than stock on HIGH beam!)
Rally 100/90 = 2600/1500 (Philips or Narva)
Rally 130/100 = 3200/1600 (Philips or Narva)
That's simply awesome! I will be picking up some Osram Hyper 70/65 for my Depos soon
. Your Osram Hyper 85/80 setup sounds unbelievable, I would assume some form of a heatsink would be a good safety measure if one was planning on using them in a Depo housing? Kudos! 


