I have a 88 260 just tuned up but now when she's given gas she really sputters until 20mph then she's fine what do think I think it's the fuel pump.


99 ml 320
96 s 600 v12
88 260e
71 250c

 

Hi,

I now it´s an old thread but I have a similar problem with my 260E -year 1987-, and I am mad looking for cues, did you find a solution?

Thanks in advance,
Best regards,

Woody

 

ask our mechanic if he tuned the retard on your car. Our cars have adjustable retard and sometimes when you get a smog check those guys will adjust the retard so your car will pass. But that causes your car to hesitate at first. I have that problem ryte now because i just did smog test and those guys changed my retard and now i have no idea how to change it back. If i ever figure out a way i will let you all know

 

My car is an european version, it has a special connector that can be swithed in several positions. I think American versions are differents, may be this information can help you about the retard, I found it in this forum, sorry because I did not know how to attach it, I have just copied it.

Woody


Author Thread



oliverb
Junior Member

Registered: Mar 2003
Location: Hedgesville, WV
Posts: 15
R16 resistor
I was reading an older thread on www.mercedesshop.com about removing or modifying the 750 ohm resistor found in the ignition system, on 201/124 USA cars. The info is 1-2 years old but was interesting. Said that the factory resistor of 750 ohms resulted in a -6 degree retard to compensate for our lower octane gas in the US. By removing the resistor altogether you get 0 degree retard and by substituting one of 1.3K ohm, you get a -3 degree retard.
Is there any truth to this? Article said there could be a slight performance gain, slightly less heat generated and I guess a slight increase in gas mileage. I have found said resistor in the area just behind the antilock brake pump on my car. It is marked with large "24 81" numbers, and above these "000 540". Below is the number "09 3659 24". Part numbers given in the thread for various resistors do not match any numbers on mine, including one for the 750 ohm standard resistor.
Any ideas? I have a 1990 300E 2.6.
Thanks,
OliverB



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03-28-2003 12:53 AM



brianw430
Member

Registered: Dec 2002
Location: Iowa
Posts: 101
I also followed that thread from the beginning and removed that resistor from my 87 260E, 90 300E and 88 300TE. The engine seemed to have a little more zip and better throttle response, but absolutely no facts to back this up. Just how the engine felt. It was most notable on my 260, it also had the most mileage. I would have thought it to be more noticeable on a newer, less mileage, engine.

Give it a try and let us know what you think.


__________________
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88 300TE
Subs/Amps
John Lee Hooker

 

See my reply to Mbenzer007 about stalling.

Bascially, I had to replace my fuel distributor. But, if you can clean yours out, it will help and save lots of $$. I did it with my other car, but be careful! Your electronics will kick in and try to stall the car and void the accelerator. If you want more details let me know.

 

Thanks a lot Hendrich,

Could you say me how did you clean your fuel distributor?

I think it´s not an easy matter, I will really appreciate your help

Thanks in advance.

Best regards,

Woody

 

Again user beware. I'm not sure of any residual harm it may cause. But, it's been over a couple weeks now since I've done it and I can say it only GOT BETTER. I assume no liability here...

I removed the air filter assembly and exposed the fuel distributor. Depending on the model, it can be a somwhat flat like cylinder or more of the size of a can of beans. Looking down into it, there's a flap that closes the entire cylinder intake. I sprayed some Gumout carborator cleaner around the perimiter of the flap - especially at the pivot joints. When I first sprayed, I sprayed too much and the engine nearly died. I tried to push on the accelerator cable to rev the engine, but that caused all the electronics to kick in. The engine idled funny and the ASR lights went on at the dash. But not to worry, let the engine idle long to burn out all that spray. My auxilery fan when on and as soon as it turned off I turn off the engine. Pull the key out, and wait about a minute to let the elctronics reset and restart the engine. Things should be good at this point. Then really rev up the engine (almost like ur racing someone of the start) and let all that crap blow out off the exhaust. Then I repeated again. But this time I only sprayed gingerly and lightly and allowed the egine idle funny for a long time. Then repeat the starting of the engine process and rev high. At the end take the car out and drive it hard to spew out all that junk at the exhaust. You'll find the hesitation will deminish and the axcelerator response increases.

Be careful! Hope that helps...

 

Thanks, I thought you dismantle the fuel distributor to clean it, I think this is a difficult matter. May be that when you introduce this spray through the Mixture-Control unit , air flow meter and the throttle plate, it arrives to the fuel distributor and clean it.
I have been using for a long time, some additives for gasoline –to clean injectors and the injection system-, I think they do a similar work, but my problem continius.

Thank you very much for your support.

Two days ago I chat in a German W124 forum looking for people with the same problem, some of then have the same problem I have and are looking for answers as well.

If I fix the problem I will tell you